Ray

Take a look at a couple off the roundy round guys catalogs. Speedway has a nice add on to the stock pan, comes with trap doors and if I remember it is about 6 1/2" deep. The other great thing with a pickup and a scraper the kit was 30$ if I remember right. It is designed for the claimer motors and works really well. I've welded a few for freinds and they seem happy. Good luck I love the chassis work so far.

Skyline motor???????? 3.0l twin turbo,intercooled and it's Nissan!! [This message has been edited by Ray (edited April 18, 2000).]

Do you have a ground wire from the block to the battery or the chassis?????

Was surfing the other day and came across a couple of these in Zcars in Australia. Seems like a neat swap 3.0L, twincam, twin turbo's etc. Anybody seen one ??????

Thanks Mark I did and wrote back. I'll let you know more after a trip to the salvage yard and the CV shop. Thanks Ray

One more atempt to sway you to the Chevy camp. 96 Vortec motors have a coventional water pump, 10to1 compression, roller cam, windage tray and high port Vortec heads. All you need is another cam and an intake!!! a reliable 400hp is easy. This beats the 225 in the Stang. Good used long blocks go for about 450$ and a t5 or t56 will bolt to it with the z28 flywheel. Which ever way you go take a good look and learn as much as possible before you dive in. It will save you time as well as money!!!!! Good luck. Ray [This message has been edited by Ray (edited April 12, 2000).]

Nissan Dealer but they arn't cheep.

I have seen several references to the Q45 rear differential. Can someone give some more info?? Is this a viscous diff and how do you adapt it to a Zcar? Then what is the cost of the conversion???

4100's aren't bad, The only thing that I have seen go wrong is rod and main bearings. It seems that they like to eat the #1 and 2 main bearing if the oil isn't changed regularly. This isn't an easy job but the price on the parts isn't bad. Talk to the guys at your local Cad dealer they will know more because many corporate sales personell drove these cars when they were new and tended to rack up alot of miles. Take a 6 pack and go visit you might be suprised what you learn!!!

Thanks, Mike It just seemed like alot of money if it wasn't needed.

Maybe I should have been clearer is there somthing wrong with using the stock Camaro clutch assembly. The aftermarket ones start a couple of hundred dollers. The price of the trany is hard enough to somach.

It seems that everone is buying aftermarket clutch assemblies for their swaps. Why, is the stock clutch that bad? If it is designed to handle 300hp in a 3k lb car shouldn't it live in a 2k lb car with the same hp?????

About the 700r, I have a built one in my 90 Blazer with over 80k on it. 6000lbs and it will still bark 2nd on a cold morning. If you get a late model Trans with a 10 vane front pump (89 and newer) and put a Trans Go kit in it, adjust it right it will live a long time. Another problem area you might not know about is the TV boost valve it can stick and cause slow shifting, low fluid pressure and destroy the Trans quick. When the one in my Blazer stuck it toasted third in about 100 miles. Now this Trans had 150k hard miles on it but it shows how fast it can kill one. The Trans Go kit solves this problem and many others with the stock 700r. If you buy a Trans Go kit shop around prices very allot, (it is about 110$ wholesale). Good luck. Ps. When you install the Kit you can make the trans. fully manual if you choose.

Ross you explain the front easy enough but how did you do the rear? I have looked at having the stubs redrilled but don't like that idea. Do the 300xz stubs fit or can they be machined to fit a 240 easily.