Ray

Checked the old link and nothing is there ???

help ????

I am still looking at using the turbo outer CV with the r230 inner stuff. Any body got a outer CV out of a turbo that can tell me what the dia and spline count is ?????

I still want to know what the 1980's nissan Patrol in Aus. looked like ???

As for the patrol the ones sold here in the late 60's early 70's I thought they had a copy of the chevy 235 inline 6 Go take a look you may be supprized... BTW what year is it and how big is it... the ones sold here were the same size as a Toyota FJ40

You know the more I read here the more I am glad this forum has such an open minded group of people.... Try putting an aritcle about putting a Lincon rear in a Datsun anywhere else and they would slam you hard. Here we have enough people who are willing to think and use there mind. Not only do they take it and run with the idea, they look for ways to improve it. To bad we dont all work together I might actually enjoy going to work.......

Lincon Versilas are the same with as a 67-68 mustang. Infact that is where alot of those guys get there 9" 's from. If I remember correctly it is 59" flange to flange.... With the late model offset wheels most of them need 1.5" to 3" per side to fit..so take the 55"? for the stock z and add 3 to 6" and where are you.....Now I may be off on the width but it was the concept I was trying to sell..... What is the flange to flange with on the 8.8 you have????

New one for me if it is v6 in an Eldo ??? I have never seen one.... But with GM anything is possible....

How wide is the Mustang rear ???? Thinking out loud.... If it is less than about 60" you may be able to make it work. To add to the idea of using the Z stut mounts why not make it a 3 link. Make some lower mts and lower control arms like the mustang has and then use a torque arm in the middle and a panhard bar. The Q45 has a nice strut with a shock type lower mount. If you ran a t5 or t56 the torque arm would be easy. If you are looking into this why not use a lincon versalis rear end if I remember correctly they are about 59 or 60" ( ford 9" with disc's) even if you have to buy one it might be cheeper than the 8.8 as you won't have to buy axels or C clip eliminators... just food for thought.....

No, the Cadillac motor is a v8 and the Buick motor is an over grown 3.8 . The buick has some performance options but you would be better with a turbo 3.8 As for the Cadillac it is all alluminun and they have main bearing problems. Most of the ones you see will either have had bearings put in them or knock real bad when cold. (not a bad motor otherwise) .. By the time they made the 4.9 and then the northstar motors they had fixed this problem, They will go 200k+ easy Later Ray

Welcome to the club of married with children...

240 Turbo The Q45's have a 3.54 gear, The main reason for the r230 is I have had no luck finding a r200 lsd or vsd.. that wasn't expensive. I also love the shear size of the r230. I tend to want to build things that won't break, ever. If the factory will put it behind a 300+hp turbo car and warrenty it, it will live forever in what we do. As for the R200 after talking to Myron about what happens when the shafts and or the carrier brakes, I will spend the extra time to make this work. BTW r230's are alot more plentiful than vsd or lsd r200's. That is why everyone is trying to make this swap work. Later Ray

I have an r230 out of a Q45 here and the half shafts. Did he use 4 of the inner CV's ??? I dont see how he could use 4 of the outers??? The Q45 I got my stuff out of had a conventional CV on the outer that bolted through the hub like a front driver. The iner is a bolt up flange, is it possible some are different... Mark???? BTW I got the whole thing, shafts, diff, hubs, and brakes for 200$ look arround Q45's arn't real popular and I have seen at least 10 and all still had the rear in them... You just have to deal and be patient...

I may just for fun give it a try... Once I am done... I am still going to do it Mark's way at first just to make it easy... Two concentric circles on steel plate wih some holes I can do that... BTW how much does it cost to have axels shortened ???

Thanks, How thick of a plate did you use for the adapters and how much did you have the shafts shortened??? Has the shaft not being retained laterally caused any problems... You explained how you did this a while back but it didn't make sence till I got it home and started looking at it... The CV's are huge !!!!! I pulled the hubs and all the brakes while I was at it (got them for free) The hubs just bolt in and they are a really beefy double bearing design... Thinking out loud.... Anyone cut and welded on the stock Datsun upright ???? If I do it properly I could weld in a machined flat plat and bolt the hub to it. This would solve alot of the backspacing problems and all but eliminate the stub axel problem... BTW I have a friend who was just over and he loved the Q45 rear suspension. He comented that he thought it could be easilly adapted to any rear wheel drive car and was taking measurements to see if it would fit in his Chevelle... It all goes in with 4 subframe mounts and then the struts which could be converted to coil overs in a large car...more food for thought...

The Ratio in my r230 is 3.54. It is out of a 90 Q45, they may have changed in later years????

The cage looks great... What size tube did you use and do you have some pix of how they did the attaching points??? I really like how they did the sides and the hoop, really tight fit. If you painted it black it would really blend in and look sharp. You probibly wouldn't even notice it from the outside. Now your car is no sleeper but this gives ideas to the rest of us... Thanks ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

The 94 and up camaro 5sp's out from behind the v6 are a real oddball... the input shaft is an inch longer and the trans to belhousing is a ford pattern. they are still tilted like the previous years but wont work the same. Since this trans only came behind the v6 and teh belhousing is different it will be very difficult to adapt. They are a world class t5 but you would be better off finding a setup out of a 88-92 v8 camaro... most of the wrecking yards know this and the v8 trans are a preimum.....Good luck but if you are going to spend the money t56's seem easier to find... ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

Here in the states all the 240-280z hoods interchange... BTW I am looking for info on Holden Commodores, we have a simmilar car here in the states built on the Opel chasis. I am paritcuarly interested in the body and suspension. If you know of any web sights let me know.... Thanks Ray... ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

Msd's do take alot of juice but did you check your alt to see if it was working properly. Your alt may not be putting out any amperage at idle but when you rev it up it is putting out enough to keep the Bat charged. This will be easy to check, The other question is how big is the wire going away from your alt and where are you feeding the MSD from???? BTW The gm alts are better they handle load and jump starting alot better than the Hitachi. I would convert to a GM HD alt 105amp or bigger. they put out 35 to 40 amps at idle.. more than you will ever need... Good luck.... ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

Great idea. Might also want to show what other stock factory wheels fit for us on a budget... Then do what mod's it takes for other types of wheels and a backspacing chart for stock wheelwells..... BTW I went 5 lug with coilovers for one reason, I priced the wheels and I could buy a set of stock 300zxtt(16") 5 lug wheels and convert over cheeper than to just buy the aftermarket wheels. Remember most aftermarket wheel start at 150ea and go up. Mikes coils are about 400$ a set and I have found alot of sets of 300zx 16x7.5 wheels for about 200$ a set, a little more with tires. So if you are going to spend 600$ on wheels why not get coils and 5 lug at the same time and use a quality factory wheel... ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

Has anyone thought of doing dual latches similar to a vette. One on each side. You could take and drill out the spot welds on two center latches and reweld them in on the sides. then mod the hood for the atachments... Just food for thought ??????? ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

Try this I have seen the GM TBI pumps used for carb aplications.. Now this is an in the tank pump so it would require some fabrication. You may have to run a return line and a regulator. Most of the TBI systems run 8 to 12psi this is a little much but if you are running a holley I have seen some real neet fabricated fuel logs that use a fixed orfice in the return line to regulate flow. Now this is cheep and easy all you have to do is vary the size of the orfice till you get about 6psi at the carb at idle. just food for thought.... BTW... DYIEFI.com has the almost all the factory pumps and there flow rattings listed. Everything from carb pumps to 110psi EFI pumps..... ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

Hey Pete, welcome there are a few of us in Houston Myron, Lotus(mike), myself and a few others... As for the mirrors look at Pete's site he has some toyota mirrors and others have used 300zx mirrors. Most of the modern mirrors will have to mount to the window frame. so you will have to make a bracket or rivet them to the window frame. Good luck ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

The main reason some people use the 327/307(they are the same) crank is to get a longer rod and the cylinder filling effect with the larger piston. This combo also fits alot of class racers that are limited to 355cid. With a light piston and 6+" rod this is a real high end screamer. As for doing one with the vortec heads I would think it would run about like a regular 350 with the vortec heads. The reason for this is the vortec heads are only good to .500 lift and this combo would need a really large cam and some big heads to take advantage of the long rod. Now the rod would help a milder motor with the vortec heads but why spend the money on custom pistons and rods when the gain isn't that great.. IMHO Now if you are going to build a 8k screamer or are trying to make the motor fit into racing class go for it.... Most 307/327 cranks are forged, you can use either the ford 300/6 rods(6.209") and have the top end bushed to a chevy pin and narrowed, or buy custom rods... both will require and aftermarket piston. I have heard that some of the hyper pistons for a 6" rod 406 will work but don't recall what rod they were using. ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal. [This message has been edited by Ray (edited April 03, 2001).]