Ray

I was trying to be nice and here comes Andrew being totally honest.... I agree you should be able to pickup a clean 240 for about 500$ alot cleaner than that one... Now I am not a good example but it took me almost a year of looking for a car to find one, look you are in prime ground for Z cars check the tow yards the donation places where people go for a tax right off etc... Anywhere place an add in the paper... You will be shocked how many Z cars are out there... Good luck

Congrats so when are you buying the beer so we can put the LT1 into the Z in your garage!!!!!!! ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

Before you go through with it take a look at other 240's with out the conversion... I am willing to bet that for what this guy wants for the chasis you can find a really nice 240 that hasn't been butchered... This is a clean looking car, but you are in prime country for z cars.. they don't really rust where you are... Even look at non running cars, I hate to take over someone else's project you never know what you are going to find... If you start with a stock, origional car you will still have the normal Datsun Problems but you won't have to fix other peoples stuff. Now I don't know this guy but I have looked at alot of z's and you can get a clean stock Z and then modify it very easily. Other than the motor and the tires and wheels there didn't look to be anything great about the car, and you have already said that you don't get either of those.. Take all the stuff you like about the car the tach, struts and what ever else and add up the cost of all those items. Then divide by 2, used stuff is worth half of what new is... then take all that and subtract it from what he wants... that will put you in the balpark for looking at other cars without the conversion.. the first rule of hot rodding buy the best car you can afford..... This may be a hell of a ride, most v8z'z are but be reasonable can you buy a cleaner better car that hasn't been converted and convert it cheeper than this one???? You are still going to have to buy a motor, trans and a r200. Why not start with a car that has all the interior and usable paint??? Later ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

The motor in question is a 96 or early 97 vortec pickup motor... they came in almost all Chevy and Gmc pickups. Now the specs look like this 350 cid 2 bolt main block with one peice rear main seal. cast crank good rods windage tray hyp. cast pistons 9.5 to 1 comp. e31 vortec heads hyd. roller cam 419/419--196/206@.050 week .450 max lift valve springs stamped steel 1.5 rocker arms Now this looks almost identical to the motor in the link below except for the 4 bolt main and the cam... http://www.salleechevrolet.com/ChevySmallBlockV8s/xtreme_4x4_350.html Now if you look down at the options one of the options is the GM HOT roller cam kit. and they show this to produce 421hp.... Now that may be a bit high but look at the concept... If everyone knew that they could go buy a motor out of a truck and change the cam, machine the heads a little, add some roller rockers and put it all back together and it out perform one of there highly touted crate motors they wouldn't have a market for them..... If you have any other questions email me I will gladly share what I have learned... My moto is I have more time than money and the more I know the cheeper it will be. Works alot in wrecking yards.... Good luck Later ... ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

Bundle of snakes !!!!! ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

There are several people out there with an R230 in a early car. I have seen the pix of Darius's car what are the rest of you running???? I was looking at using the z32 inner and the 280zx turbo outer with some custom shafts. Anyone got any cheeper ideas??? What was the cost on the shafts that you guys had made??? I've got the rearend I just need some ideas before I try and install it.

FYI... Modifying the Vortecs for a high lift cam can be done by any good machine shop cheep. 50 to 60 bucks and they will shorten the guides and machine them for PC seals. (Always cheeper to pay cash..) Now you may have to dissemble your heads to get it this cheep but if you are putting a real cam in a vortec motor you have to change the springs anyway.. If you have a drill press, the cutters and some time it can even be done at home. ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal.

I like the crate motor route but the prices are a little steep and I am cheep.. I put together a crate motor of sorts I found a good running 96 vortec pickup motor (later motors have gear driven waterpumps they can also be used but you have to use the pump, the block is different) bought a GM Hot cam kit(525/525--218/228@.050) and a fast burn intake. So far for a complete long block I have about a grand in it and according to the guys at Scroggin and Dickey in Lubock it should be in the 380 to 400hp range. Now I didn't get a warenty but I got a good running motor with low miles and then added to it... Remember the crate motors you are buying IE the 350hp and the 380hp are just late model truck motors with different cams and or fast burn heads. If you look at the specs for a 96-99 vortec pickup motor they are almost identical the same Hypereutectic pistons, 9.5 to 1 comp, roller cam(419/419--195/195@.050), stock 1.5 rockers, vortec e31 heads, windage tray, the good rods etc..the cams just vary due to the use of a carb.. BTW if you shop arround you can get the Hot cam kit for under 500$ and it comes with Crane self aligning rockers lt4 spring kit and the Hot cam. Also Scroggin and Dickey has fast burn take off intakes (performer RPM copy) that fit a vortec for 129$. I you buy a real timing chain to go with. For about 700$ and what ever you paid for the motor you have a crate motor copy with a better valve train and a better cam...Remember if you run more than .460 lift with vortec heads you have to machine the valve guides for clearence.. If you don't want to spend that much get a take out lt1 cam(447/459-201/208@.050) change the valve springs, and you have a 300+hp crate motor for about 100$ on top of the cost of the motor. Remember what has been said before the faster street z cars have between 350 and 400hp any more and it is very hard to put it to the ground.... and the cost of the motor gets crazy... [This message has been edited by Ray (edited March 04, 2001).]

Was this the reason he replaced the carb in the first place??? If so it may not be the carb... you didn't menchion if it goes away if he keeps his foot on the floor or if it just dies altogether. You could have several different problems but more than likely it is ignition !!! Do the basic's Ignition first, cars tend to like the same timing, even if the mixture is off. So set the initial timing and make sure the distrubitor is working properly, while you are at it put in some new points and condencer (not the cheep pep boys stuff either). Check the cap and rotor also look at the spark plug wires in the dark and make sure they arn't putting on a ark fest. Then look at the plugs. Make sure all the wires to the coil are in good shape and not shorted also make sure you have a good motor ground. Then fuel supply, make sure the pump and lines are good. it may just be running out of fuel.. Check the return to the tank and the fuel filter, if any of this stuff is plugged it will keep you from getting fuel. once you have checked all of the above things. Then go to the carb last, yes last it is usually the other stuff, If the problem is just a stumble (goes away if you hold it wide open) Qjets have a secondary air door which opens the secondary side. There is an adjustment under the right side of the air door. It is a small flat head screw, you will need a mirror to see it. This adjusts how fast the secondarys open.( a little adj here makes a big difference so be careful) If they were opening to fast it would cause a bog but not missing and spudering and would go away as the motor came up. Hope this helps but do some basic stuff before you go changing stuff. It is usually somting simple, broken ground wire, shorted coil, bad condencer etc... take a look.. let us know what you find.... ------------------ Remember it is only a piece of metal. [This message has been edited by Ray (edited March 04, 2001).]

Get another rearend, What is usually done to make a lincon locker or okie posi is to weld the spider gears to the carier with a nickel welding rod. You cant really fix it once it is done you will have to replace the rearend. R200's are fairly easy to find so replacement souldn't be a problem. Good luck

thanks pete, I am going to try and get a set of used ones just to give it a try before I buy a some...

A freind of mine is parting a Q45, I am getting the rearend and half-shafts, what about the brakes??? Have you seen them and are they similar to the 300zxtt. I was also wondering about the 300zx n/a brakes how are they different from the turbo. BTW I bought some z32 turbo wheels and will let you know how they fit...

If thats what you want do it.. ... you even have the option of the overdrive 4 speed or maybe a efi magunum motor and a 5 speed. You might even be able to get one cheep because they arn't as popular as a small block chevy... Most of the basics will be the same as the JTR conversion, short of mocking it up you may be able to take some measurements off a chevy conversion and compare... Good luck

I should have stated in the rear of the car.. I already have 225/50's in front... I was wondering if anyone has tried them with a 8" wheel in the back....

I have seen 245's any body tried 255's and what with of rim did you use????

Hey, factor this if you are using a early 2 peice rear main block you may be better off using the LS1 T56. The block mounting pattern is the same except of there is a bolt hole straight up and the right upper bolt hole is eliminated (one could be welded on). The LS1 T56 also has an input shaft that is .400 longer than the LT1. this is good because if you use the LS1 belhousing and a .500 adapter between the trans and belhousing. You can use a push clutch, yes a normal push clutch, like the LS1 and every other chevy except the LT1. This will save you alot of money over the flywheel and the cost of a pull type clutch. Depending on the depth of your flywheel and clutch combo you may even be able to use the LS1 hyd. throwout bearing in the stock position. Now I didn't come up with this but I have a write up from a freind who did do it. I will forward you a copy and anyone else how wants one. He is also having the spacers made if anyone wants one.....FYI.... BTW if you find a T56 out of a LS1 under a grand with the belhousing and throwout bearing, let me know I don't need the clutch or the flywheel.. Later Ray

Take them back.... It may have been a while since you bought them but I would take them back. If the place you bought them won't warenty them call the mfg... If they say no be a jerk, Remember this is a safety item... If the mfg rep is smart he will replace them... Ps..and don't tell them about the pads.

any suspension parts??? what about the cage???

Someone awhile back posted the factory chassis diagram. Any one have a link if not I have a factory chasis book and will scan it and email it to you. Ray

Mike do you have any pictures of the car that did 180+ I wonder if they did anything to the rear.

Moses if you are going to get one get a 84 to 92(82 and 83 are different) While you are at it you may want to get all the clutch stuff. Also the 4.3 v6-S10 stuff is similar take a look. Lone is right on the flywheel make sure you have the smaller one with the correct starter. Good luck.

It sounds like you have a truck or old style flywheel. The one you need is the smaller on used with the 10.5" clutch's. You do have the belhousing off a V8 T5 not a V6???

look over at http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/ They have a listings for factory pumps with the flow rating and pressure. You should find what you are looking for there. Look at picture 5 for the big pumps. These are all factory pumps you should be able to find one used for next to nothing !!!!! Good luck

John have you looked into using a nitrous plate with fuel solenoids on both sides. they can be activated by Hobbs switches. This would give you a cheep adjustable way to keep the carb and run more boost. I have seen a few very simple systems like this on carbed turbo apps but never with a blower but the principle is the same. Good luck with what ever you do. Ps: you don't have to use the expensive solenoids that the nitrous guys use you just need a 12v solenoid with a brass valve.

Grannys finished Hagen's RX7 check it out http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/3rdgenrx7chevyv8.html