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NorwegianZED

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Posts posted by NorwegianZED

  1. How are the framrails and the floors? seriously interested, the model year makes it alot easier to modify and register over here and i am having trouble with the one i have(73).

     

    Do you have more pictures? Are there any major issues that are easily identified? I wont be using the engine, gearbox or diff so theire condition does not matter. The interior is of little interest as well.

    I could use a helping hand getting it to either of Newark NJ, Baltimore MD, Charleston SC, Brunswick GA if i where to buy it(obviously to the closest port).

    Need some papers with it(title) as well.

  2. Looking at your dyno graph, my recommendation is to start by degreeing the cam with a degree wheel and get the cam timing corrected. the peeky torque is caused by the cam timing. The number one thing the zcar community, not all, NEVER does! you have the cam timing worng and you get those kind of results. So start there, and the Z31 ECU will do everything you want it to do.

    Could you explain that cam timing bit? That is very interesting to me

  3. By that your meaning the neutral safety switch/ reverse light switch on the auto trans?

     

    Yes

     

    Did you bypass the inhibitor switch/relay also?. If you haven't i would look into that system, i think the seatbelts system is tied into it as well.

     

    Look into finding a haynes manual if you can't find the wiring diagram.

     

    You can always wire a fuse link into the wire from the ignition switch, that gives 12volts to the starter. Run that wire straight to the starter.

     

    What Dexter said ;) I am willing to put Money on it, and since I don't know what you did and didn't do. 1$ in the Pot, any takers?

  4. If anyone has a particular knowledge of the difficulty of the electronics for these engines (OM603) please speak up! I'm look at you gents who suggested it  :icon6:

     

    It seems the OM603 can in fact be mounted to the same toyo transmission that I was sourcing for the TDI swap

     

    Electronics? There is not alot of it on a mechanical fuel pump.

     

    You have the glow plugs/pre heating, the alternator(usually 90A) needs 3 wires and optionally a fourth for rpm, the temp sensor, oil pres. sensor

    There is a tempsensor on the fuelpump, but i am not certain you need it if you go with a universal glow relay.

    Pretty sure that is it, the rest is vacume controled, the rest being stopping, pump controll and gearbox controll.

     

    thats of the top of my head without going outside to look ;)

     

    If you go with a OM606, you get electronics on the pump, but the 603 pump is interchangable with the 606 pump so the problem goes away again.

    The 606 is exactly the same as 603 with regards to boltpattern on the transmission end and engine mount. it has a more modern head with two cams (om603 has one) and it has 24 valves(603 -> 12) a stock 3 liter 606 delivers 177hp, a 603 3liter is 136hp, 603 3.5L is 156hp.

     

    Needless to say, the 606 is a generation newer, and offers better fuel economy with more tourqe and power.

     

    If you like to read: www.superturbodiesel.com knock yourself out ;) and just for fun, youtube: Blacksmoke racing he is running a 606, or at least it started life as a 606. Also Göran, known as Dieselmeken on that site, can do whatever you want to a 603 pump. He has his own site www.dieselmeken.se

     

    Honestly, if the goal is a wicked good fuel economy, it is going to be hard to beat a Vag 1,9tdi without going to battery power ;)

  5. Sooooo, use an Anglegrinder with a sandpaper or wire disk to find the actual leadfilled seem? Melt the lead away, drill the spotwelds, preferably with a spotweld drill bit, make sure to use a tapper to make guideholes. Then off she comes? Or, is the skin glued as well? Is there a trick to get it loose after the welds are gone?

     

    I am thinking of gluing the roof back on using Tec 7, i have used Tec 7 with great sucsess on other cars, but i am slightly reluctant being creativ on the Zed :P Will there be drawbacks to my master plan? the reason i am thinking of this solution is that i am slightly reluctant to weld, i have little experience with thinsheet welding, and i dont have a spotwelder on hand. I do have a stick welder and MIG/MAG.

     

    Then again... Holes from the spotwelds..

  6. looks good, all i takes is a teny tiny leap of faith :) i might get myself one of those when my dailydriver turbo fails.

     

    i have one reservation only, oil leaks in the turbo is less of a problem than a water leak, at least in my head... or did i miss something important?

    also, what are the service intervals on greasing the bearings?

  7. After talking to a few z guys today, i got two different answers. One says, that my 40s would do fine, arguing that it is a street engine.

    This guy has spent years restoring these cars and owns and races them as well. Does custome work and in general knows what he is on about.

     

    The other guy pointet me in the direction of very affordable options at www.jenvey.co.uk :) i am looking into that now.

     

    I don't know how the engine runs, as it isn't in either my car or garage. I am only getting a basic engine, without any fuel deliverysystem at all. I can use what is on my l24, teeny tiny 40mm or i can sell that setup with one of the engines going out of the garage.

     

    The engine comes with a mild cam i a mildly modified head, i have a very modifyed head with more aggressive cam on tha shelf.

     

    Right nowni am leaning towards itb setup, but i am unfamiliar with what modifications i need to do to get it working.

    I am not afraid of fabrication or electricity, but what i just don't know, can i stil run with dizzy ignition, do i need coil packs? Do i need sensors on the crank and cam? Do i have quick and easy options? And so on...

     

    Still, i love my triples as they are on the l24. Aha... I think your experiences with itbs are compelling tony. Mmmmm. I better do some research, but i am betting i will end up with efi :)

  8. I am looking for good options on how to feed a 3.0l stroker. I have concluded that my dhla40 won't be enough, not even maxed out as they are now. By maxed out i mean they can't possibly send more fuel through.

     

    I was thinking of dcoe 45 or 50, then i found out what that would cost me. And i am wondering how much would a complete itb setup cost? I would need everything that isn't on a stock n/a engine

     

    What do you think?

  9. I can't tell you to much about the car or the engine, but i'll second on the description of the gearbox, my dd G350 has the same box. It needed an overhaul two years ago for the mentioned faults, this set me back about 2000dollars. It works fine now and it is ready for 10 new years of abuse :D

     

    for the most part my experience with MB is one of great quality, i have owned four different G-class vehicles and i am looking for a new one. i think it is around the years of the w140 that MB had low quality metal in their cars, this makes them more prone to rust. the engines are mostly bulletproof.

  10. Turn your engine to timing marks for ignition on cylinder one specs, mount the distributor and see where the rotor is in relation to the cylinder one lead? Thats what i would do anyway

     

    What are you worried about? As far as i know it is not critical timing on this axel, it runs the oilpump and the distributor. The oilpump doesnt care about timing and the distributor is very much adjustable. Slap it together adjust the ignition and be on you merry way :)

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