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grannyknot

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Posts posted by grannyknot

  1. Im going to remove mine SOON because of axle slop issues. I am thinking along the same lines as mightymaxx on this one a die spring would be ideal with a hardened washer on the ends. Im working with a local engineering/machine shop that know there stuff to locate a spring that will fill the void and have around 200lb or higher spring rate with in a 3mm compression. 

    Can you post the part number if you find a spring that will do the job? There are a lot of OBX owners that might benefit from this.

    Thanks

  2. Got the exhaust system built, welded and hung last week, hopefully it won't be too loud but I really wanted to eliminate the back pressure that the stock exhaust had.

    The whole system is from Vibrant, 2 Ultra quiet straight through resonators welded together, 1in 2out ultra quiet straight through muffler, 4 mandrel bent 3" pipes and the collector I made.

    post-28202-0-61824200-1480290468_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-32990100-1480290502_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-64440200-1480290559_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-44243500-1480290578_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-74369900-1480290614_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-96894300-1480290639_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-80297100-1480290655_thumb.jpg

  3. I know how to mig weld carbon steels and my gas tank is 75% Argon 25% CO2 but I thought I would try my hand at welding together a new SS exhaust system for the Z. I have the ER308L stainless steel wire already, do I have to change the tank over to 98% Argon/2% CO2 or can I get by with the 75/25 ?

    Thanks,

    Chris

  4. Strong Arm 4477N10 Gas Charged Lift Support 10176N10W

    I ordered 2 of these from these guys, https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4477n10-gas-charged-ball-socket-lift-struts-supports-10176n10w/ and a pak of 4 ball studs, the struts are 43lb and hold the hood any position 16" or higher, below that and the weight of the hood takes over and it closes. I'm pretty happy with it, here are a few more pics,

    post-28202-0-58938500-1479250748_thumb.jpg

    post-28202-0-48261600-1479250766_thumb.jpg

    post-28202-0-25789100-1479250809_thumb.jpg

    post-28202-0-52552300-1479250827_thumb.jpg

    post-28202-0-63677300-1479250855_thumb.jpg

    post-28202-0-22363200-1479250889_thumb.jpg

    post-28202-0-34447100-1479250911_thumb.jpg

    post-28202-0-27970700-1479250932_thumb.jpg

  5. Well I have finally finish installing the drive line, engine mounts, transmission mount, drive shaft and diff are all in and I think, are perfectly a lined. As best as I can measure it I think I'm within half a degree in both axis. So hopefully the drive line will be vibration free :unsure:   Also got the oil cooler plumbed in, the accelerator linkage installed and air filter sorta finished. As much as I hate K&N filters I bought one anyway, after spending lots of money and time trying build or adapt a paper filter airbox that just didn't work.

    The K&N filter will get me on the road until I can figure something else out.

    This is the adapter I built to join the bmw drive shaft/CV joint to the Nissan rear end and it is as near a copy as I could make to the one Ron Taylor amde for his bmw/datsun swap.

    post-28202-0-62078300-1479165143_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-63499100-1479165261_thumb.jpg

    Lokar cable,

    post-28202-0-37132000-1479165221_thumb.jpg post-28202-0-08509700-1479165322_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-30036900-1479165363_thumb.jpg post-28202-0-75217100-1479165705_thumb.jpg

    Got all of the fixings for a 3" SS Vibrant exhaust system, post-28202-0-67848600-1479165429_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-96894400-1479165462_thumb.jpg

    Finished building the battery box, post-28202-0-03262900-1479165511_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-29028900-1479165545_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-11792400-1479165565_thumb.jpg

    Got rid of the torsion spring hood opener and installed hydraulic springs, post-28202-0-44719100-1479165603_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-95726600-1479165645_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-26370700-1479165669_thumb.jpg

     

  6. Once you get the frame off the gasket you may find some thin rubber shims glued to the gasket on the back two corners, the rounded corner and the sharp corner at the top, SAVE THOSE SHIMS and make note of which corner they came off of. You may find none or as many as 3, make sure they go back in the same place when you go to re install the new gasket with a layer of weather strip sealant between each one. Well actually a layer of sealant between everything, I can tell you what a pain in the ass it is to have to take those windows out after everything has been put back together because you skipped a step. Driving rain storms and the carwash find every little gap.

  7. These are the guys I ordered my rebuild kit from, http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_f5w71_overhaul_kit.html

    It was a good quality kit but as New Zed says you might want to try some of the different oils first, they can make a big difference.

    The guy I bought my 5 spd from said that it had to be rebuilt, so I rebuilt it but I found nothing that needed to be replaced. Bearings were good, so were the syncros.

  8. Looks like you found a real body guy, that's getting harder. While you are getting all the rust repaired you might want to add two of these little channels that take the run off water from the edge of the hatch and dump it off the car instead of that water dumping onto the back sill. If Datsun had put done this there would be a lot less rust in that area.

    post-28202-0-79121400-1477003433_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-18045000-1477003454_thumb.jpg

    Oh the car is tipped on its side on a rotisserie in those pics.

  9. Great work on fabricating everything up, great build so far.

    the gauges in that dash fit perfectly. Did you use 4.5" and 2 5/8"? Did you end up buying an electric power steering kit or did you find bits and parts, what made you want to go electric power steering? 

    Thanks, so far I'm really happy with the Speedhut gauges, they are 4.5" and 2 5/8th.

    I built the power steering up out of parts from the wreckers and 1/8th steel plate, I have a detailed DIY description here,

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56267-new-power-steering-option/

    The bmw engine is about 90lbs more than the L engine so I thought it would be nice for parking lots and if I can get my wife to drive it.

  10. Have got a bunch of stuff done since my last post, installed the TTT offset tierods to compensate for the the lowered steering rack,post-28202-0-70938700-1476313764_thumb.jpg

    Built the engine and transmission mounts and modified the crossmember,post-28202-0-11519300-1476313882_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-36844100-1476313909_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-71490600-1476313946_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-40099400-1476313996_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-03541700-1476314010_thumb.jpg

    So here is the room left to play with, about a 1/2" between the top of the engine and the hood and about the same with the oil pan and Xmember, post-28202-0-16827700-1476314044_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-40919000-1476314108_thumb.jpg

    Built a skid plate to protect the oil pan, post-28202-0-55323800-1476314135_thumb.jpg

    Lower radiator mounts are finished, post-28202-0-12449700-1476314169_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-70572800-1476314186_thumb.jpg

    and have finished installing the electric power steering,post-28202-0-75502800-1476314243_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-03429900-1476314284_thumb.jpg

  11. Holy crap, very very smart idea fitting it inside that box. I wish you could show some photos of how you cut and reinforced the steering box.

     

    Also, what adapters for input/output and all that did you use? I'm about to start mine really soon.

    The 1st pic is what was cut out of the steering/pedal box, 2nd is the bracing around the hole that I added, while the paint was off I also added some key welds where previously there was only spot welds. There is a middle shaft on the 240's, I used the splined section of that to weld onto the Saturn input shaft, the Saturn output shaft is coupled with a simple sleeve and 4 grade 8 bolts to the cut off end of the stock middle steering shaft. Once you get down to your steering/pedal box come back and have a look at the pics in post #27 again, it will make a lot more sense.

    post-28202-0-32339200-1476149618_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-26265900-1476149656_thumb.jpg

    post-28202-0-61635000-1476149708_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-36459200-1476149846_thumb.jpg

  12. I have almost completed the Saturn Vue electric assist steering in my 240Z, just waiting on the wiring kit from ebay Bruno, I had to cut and modify the steering shaft/pedal box to fit it in and then reinforce the box to stiffen it back up, the pics will explain it better then me. The unit weighs 14lbs and then add a couple more for bracing and a u joint, so far I have $144.00 in to it, looking forward to trying it out in parking maneuvers.

    post-28202-0-95008200-1476142909_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-23773000-1476142927_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-66937700-1476142980_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-62980300-1476142995_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-99544800-1476143020_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-15547800-1476143038_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-28271000-1476143056_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-99193800-1476143071_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-35956300-1476143086_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-71281000-1476143101_thumb.jpg

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