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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. Most of the guys on this forum don't have L engines in their Z's anymore so posting it on https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum/4-z/ will probably get you more response. Good luck
  2. Thank you, they have some nice couplers and U joints, their kits are a bit pricey but that's why we make our own
  3. Well you have 50/50 chance to get it right the first time 😉 Not much you can do but use your best judgement, again you'll probably be fine either way.
  4. It could be and/or someone over revved the engine. Your lucky the lash pads were still up in the head, sometimes they get stuck in the oil drain holes to the oil galley or end up in the pan. Check the surfaces of the rockers, lash pads and cam, make sure there are no burrs or gouges, if not reinstall then, turn the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything moving smoothly. If you feel the engine stop as your turning don't push it through, reverse the direction just a smidge and find the interference before you proceed any further. If the engine is rotating nicely then do a valve adjustment, after you're done cycle the engine a few times by hand an recheck all the measurements, readjust anything that needs it. Start the engine and cross your fingers, loosing a rocker/spring is not uncommon. These are tough engines, you'll probably be fine.
  5. I'm using the rad from an M3 roadster w/S54 so ordered both coolant hoses for that car but only one of them fit, so used the other stock E46 M3 hose as well. Sorry I don't remember which hose was from the M3 roadster but unless you are using that rad it probably wouldn't fit anyway. BMW's radiator hose fittings are kind of cool but it does make it difficult to find hoses for custom jobs.
  6. @carbuilder723, the engine looks amazing! Nice touch with bronze the trumpets. I have the an S54 in my Z too, remarkable engine, here is what it sounds like with just the header.
  7. I'm not sure how much I can add, I have about $150 total in my power steering setup, did everything myself. I don't remember running into any real problems in putting the parts together, it works very well and I'm pleased with how easy it is to forget that it is even there. Could you possibly name a couple of those companies that carry splined couplers? Those would have made my installation even easier. Thanks
  8. Interesting, being able to use the standard windshield seal is sort of a must, probably not a difficult problem to solve. Sure would love to get rid of my original sand pitted windshield.
  9. I love the wreckers, hard to beat a great price like that.
  10. Right in that corner is where the factory filled with lead to seal up the join between the panels and to smooth out that area so the rubber windshield seal can be water tight.
  11. That is the kind of pitting that has gone too far, you'll never stop the rust from coming back and and trying to weld on to that rotted metal will be very difficult. If it was me I would be cutting those pieces out and making new ones.
  12. Any chance you can post a pic? I can't remember ever seeing one like you're describing.
  13. I don't remember it being all that different than the vinyl, the rear wheel housing is the hardest, make sure you practice that a few times before you apply the contact cement.
  14. Yes I did about 4 yrs ago, the set I bought was black leather with grey stitching and it looks fantastic, anyone who opens the door mentions the leather smell. I'm very pleased with it.
  15. Just found your thread, the car looks beautiful and that engine package much be a blast. What kind of machining was needed on your OBX? I have one and only needed to invert gears and replace the cone washers.
  16. Hey, looks good. Don't forget the brace between the T/C rod mount and the rocker, it really stiffens up that whole area.
  17. Those seats are perfect. Is your roll cage a kit that you're putting together or are you bending your own?
  18. Go ahead and stitch the floor pan/rocker, the seam in the middle of the wheel well doesn't need it unless you are replacing one of the 2 pieces that make up the wheel well. Just make sure you seam seal all of you welds when done.
  19. Detailing that car isn't going to raise the price, I would say your Z is firmly in the "project" category. An early Z, one owner with documentation are good things that make it a worthwhile candidate restoration.
  20. As @Neverdone, hard to give advice without pics. One of the best things you can do is start reading through the listings for 240z's on BaT, make note of the quality of the cars, the way they are presented, which ones sold and didn't sell. From your description it kind of sounds like your car in it's present condition is a project, a car that needs many small things and a couple of big things looked after first before it is a reliable road car. If you spend as little as possible and just tart it up for a quick sale the guys on BaT will spot it immediately and they will eat you alive in the comments section. All the people bidding will also be reading those comments as many of the bidders rely on the "experts" to decide if it is a worth while car to purchase. What ever you do to get the car ready for sale make sure it is done well and be transparent about what you did and why, many Z's are sold just as projects and there is nothing wrong with that, lots of guys prefer a project so they can do the work themselves. It is also really easy to spend a lot of money on fixing it up and not see an increase in the money it sells for, lots of pitfalls to avoid so do your research.
  21. Ahh, that is the question people have been trying to answer for a very long time, good luck on quest to find the answer. You might want to join a local Z car club, there will be many guys there that will be willing help you in lots of ways. https://njzclub.com/ https://datsunnissanclub.wordpress.com/tag/nissan-z-club-of-new-jersey/
  22. Where did you find an OBX unit for sale? I'm pretty sure they stopped selling those 4-5 yrs ago, maybe more.
  23. You're most welcome, glad I could help.
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