maichor

Jeromio is right. I think Briguy and Cyrus have done it that way also. I also found another aftermarket mount that works with the C5 towers. Drag this link to your address bar. http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/Misc.html [/url]

Phantom, I don't have a code reader. I may fix that this weekend. Cyrus, I thought about the VATS, but it only shuts it off for 3 minutes and resets if you disconnect the battery. Even when I was having problems with the VATS not sending power to the fuel pump and starter, at least the gauges were coming on. Now I don't even get that. What was happening before was the security would come on, then flash, supposedly that is failsafe mode, according to my manual. It happens when you have short to ground or other similar problems. I will read up more on the VATS to see if I can figure it out. Thanks for the suggestions. If you can think of anything else, let me know.

YEEEEEEHAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Viper rear end! I'm sure you will have to chop that up! I am in the middle of several projects. I am done with the final engine and trans mounting and so I pulled the motor one more time to do some body and suspension work. I built a home made rotisserie so I can weld in some subframe connectors. I decided to do it all mainly because the VR kit is a roadster with no top and I need the support. I figured that I could change up the suspension while I was at it. I am going with the R230 VLSD and the subframe and suspension stuff from a mixture of cars. 240SX, Infiniti J30 and Q45. I have vented rear discs and will also have 5 lugs on 4.5 centers, front and rear. Back to the motor. Today I plugged everything in and turned on the ignition. Gauges all came on, as well as the little security light. I had cut the harness in one place that I could not avoid, due to damage to the Trans Am where I got the motor. Unfortunately, there are three .05 light gray wires that are identical in that bundle. I must have spent two hours getting it sorted out. I finally got the security light to stop blinking. I hooked up the clutch pedal depressed switch and kept in the closed position. Moment of truth . . . I turn the key, just enough to know if the starter will engage this time. CLICK!!! VICTORY! . . . Not really, because when I brought my wife out to witness the first turnover of the long dormant LS1, nothing came on. . . NO gauges, lights or anything. I hunted around for blown fuses. I found the Left headlamp blown and the PCM 10 AMP mini fuse under the hood. I swapped them out for things I don't need, like the horn and still no juice. Any suggestions, I couldn't have fried the PCM or anything could I?

Hey, have you been snooping around my garage. You described it very well, except you left out: Rear suspension sitting right in the middle of the floor waiting for the R230 Cross member by the door Metal everywhere for new framerails Homemade rotisserie in progress And tools everywhere! And . . . I don't think it will see the road until May 5th 200????!?!!?!?!?! But, that said, I am loving the work on the car. It is going to be one sweet ride when finished. I'm sorry you had to see your baby like that. Just a little longer for you. Its like waiting for Christmas as a kid!

I just had to comment on this. You fellow LS1 Z'ers can jump in here too. JTR kits use set back plates. The S&P mounts mentioned before are have about 2" of setback built into them. I have mentioned this a few times before in this forum. JTR ~4" setback, plus ~2" setback = 6" of plate going from the stock cross member back to an aluminum block. Plus, you lose space to mount accessories. Mounting the LS1 isn't that hard. Wiring is more challenging, but the biggest obstacles for me have been exhaust and accessory location. I think the corvette mounts are a much better system and they will be easier to use than the JTR stuff in the long run. Street and Performance sells those as well for $100, cheaper than the JTR kit. Here is one side that also has a machined aluminum bottom piece to mount to my cross member. Cyrus did the same thing and it is a very simple setup http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/photos2.html You can click and drag this link or copy it to your address bar. Top pics are mine, bottom one is Cyrus's. Just my $ .02.

Hey, thanks for the pics, don't worry about the part #'s the upper hose will definitely not work for my radiator. The lower might. I am thinking about using one of Summit's universal flexible hoses. They have a rubber with fake SS covering and a SS like Autozone has. That will be a decision for this weekend. Your project sure is looking very good! Best of luck! Check your email.

Sounds good! I spent last weekend cleaning the garage. I also took the engine out and taped over all the exposed areas and bead blasted it. The corrosion from the battery acid from the wreck is all gon now. The thing looks new! I also removed the intake and valve covers to inspect everything. It looks good. I am going to change the oil and filter before I fire it up. Anything else I need to do? The sandblaster gun only cost me $10 on clearance at Walmart and it worked fine. I will need a new ceramic tip, though. It is still working alright but it is chipped and cracked. The bad news is that glass bead is very expensive. By the way, if you do this, be aware that long term exposure to glass bead can cause silicosis, a nasty lung condition. I used a painters mask and goggles. Phantom, what radiator hoses are you using, stock Camaro, universal? I am doing hoses and wiring now myself. I am hooking everything up to the motor first, out of the car. It is on a homemade stand. I should be starting it in a week or two. I can't wait!

Tim240Z Did you happen to find the info on those shafts? I'm still lookin'.

I've been looking for Speedway Engineering. I found these guys: http://1speedway.com/ I emailed asking if they could do shortened CV shafts and I got this reply. "SORRY BUT WE ARE NOT A JOB SHOP. YOU COULD TRY GEAR ENGINEERING AT 1-323-636-2664. THANKS FOR THE MAIL, KEN SAPPER" Is this the place that quoted you the low price of the CV's

Hey Phantom, since when did you switch to an LT1? May 10th is the day . . . hmmmmm. I don't think I will be ready. I'm planning on going sans Velo Rossa. Sounds like things are moving along.

$295 was what they had listed on the Moser site for 2 "custom shafts," I think that is for new shafts. They didn't list what shortening/resplining would be. Hey, Tim240Z, do you have contact info for Speedway Engineering? Are they also known as Speedway Motors that sell Hot Rod, Sprint, and pedal car stuff? I got my clutch master from them. Also, they can make the shafts any length, I just measure from diff flange to stub flange and that's it? Anything special I have to do? Thanks for the good info. I will try to take pics of the whole setup next to the 240Z stuff and post them in the next few days. I still haven't decided if I want to make it even more narrow to keep the strut angles the same as stock. That would mean cutting the subframe 1 1/2" on each side and rewelding, or leaving it and angling the struts a few more degrees. What do you guys think

$295 for both. I guess that's fair. That would put the total up to $615 + coilovers. Still cheaper, but maybe not as cool as a Quaiffe. Thanks for the info. Any other options to explore for the CV's?

I now have motivation to do the swap! I am getting rid of my old suspension/brakes and I have an R230 VLSD from a Q45. Why I am doing it: 1) 5 lug with tons of wheel choices 2) Cool drum ebrake inside the discs 3) Bigger brakes/vented rotors 4) R230 VLSD with CV axles 5) Strong stubs 6) BECAUSE I AM NUTS! :flamedevil: Junk yard finds over the weekend: I found that the Q45, J30 and 240SX all have different sized outer shafts. I did not have an example of the 300ZX TT. But, get this, all three share the same suspension geometry. The subframe for the Q45 is ~2" wider than the J30, and the J30 is 1" wider than the 240SX. Here is the fun part. I took the subframe from the 96' 240SX (narrowest of the 3). I also got all of the control arms (J30 uppers and 240SX lowers) and the 240SX sway bar. I took the vented rotors from the J30t (touring model had vented discs, 92' Q45 didn't) and put them on the hubs from the Q45 (so I can use the larger diameter Q45 axles). Now, on the back of the Q45 hubs there are 4 bolts that hold the hubs to the large aluminum piece that has all of the mounting points for the upper and lower control arms. The strut mounting for the Q45 is a forked style, which is not common for aftermarket stuff and I don't know if I could find a strut like that in the length I need. So, I unbolted the Q45 hubs and bolted them onto the 240SX cast iron mounting assembly that has a standard peg attatchment so that I can use a shock/coilover from anybody. It all bolted up fine! I gave up the aluminum, but it was looking making things easier for myself later. So, here is how it looks so far, $120 for a Q45 R230, $200 for the multilink rear IRS from the Q45/J30/240SX. Now I need coilovers, Shortened Q45 CV shafts. Where can I get shortened Q45 shafts? I need the Q45 stuff on both ends, not an adapter for the 240SX stuff. Ross C . . . ANYONE?

Hey, I would love to se the pics if you want to email them. Pretty soon I'll just have to drop by and you can start it up for me!

Is there gas in the tank? Sorry, I couldn't resist! Seriously though, did the car sit for a long time? Fuel filter, pump etc. often have problems in motors that have not been run in a long time. Does the motor turn over? Is it cranking, but not firing at all? Does it fire and die? I'm sure there are a lot of guys on this board that can help you if you describe what is happening. Good luck!

My thoughts exactly! I figured it wouldn't be right if I got the R230 and left the rest of the stuff alone. Heck, I have already cut the rest of the car up and made custom mounts for the LS1 etc. I think the rear end would be left out if wasn't all original too! I know I am a glutton for punishment, but I have learned a lot by struggling throught this project and so I am not afraid to take on one more big thing. Also, I made a mistake in the math, I only have 1.5" of extra room on each side, so 10" is probably the largest rim that will fit. If I make a trip to the yard and buy this suff, I will be able to measure using a 17 X 10 rim to see how well they will fit.

Here is my project. 1972 240Z with an LS1 and a Velo Rossa kit. I got an R230 off eBay for $70. Of course shipping cost $50 so it wasn't an absolute steal. I took measurements from the junk yard Infiniti cars here. I am pretty sure I can fit the complete J30 subframe and suspension with very little fabrication. No shortening of CV's or anything since the Track width is 58.9". From my measurements with the control arms horizontal, my stock flange to flange width is ~55" (53" at stock ride height). My Velo Rossa flares give me 5" extra width on each side. So, I can still fit 3" wider wheels and get a little deep dish look. Wheels were 7" on a stock J30, so I can fit at least 10", maybe up to 12". That would be some serious meat! With the J30 I would have VLSD R200, stonger stub axles, big brakes, a cool ebrake, and 5 lugs. If the shafts from inside the carrier to the flange going to the CV's is splined the same as the Q45, I can put the J30 CV shafts, stub axles and carrier shafts right into my R230 without any problems. If not I will have to shorten the Q45 shafts and use them. If anyone knows which parts exchange on a J30 and Q45, I would love to know. It would help me make a decision. Basically, Q45 and J30 setup is the same except it is 2" wider. By the way, the 240SX rear track width is also 57.9", 1" smaller than the J30 and it is only a 4 lug setup. So, what do you guys think? I can pick up the complet J30 setup, without the R200 for $250. That, plus my R230 ($120) puts the low end cost at $370. If I have to shorten shafts, I'm looking at about $550. Total Cost at $370 sounds great! I need input. Is this a huge mistake? If so, why. It is looking better and better to me!

After reading up a bit on the R230 and R200V I guess what I saw at the salvage yard was one R230 and two R200V's. I had them laid out next to each other and I swear they were identical. They definitely use the same casing. Same #'s and everything. Even the little orange Viscous LSD were the same on all of them. I will try to find a 240SX tomorrow and take some measurements to see about that swap.

After reading up a bit on the R230 and R200V I guess what I saw at the salvage yard was one R230 and two R200V's. I had them laid out next to each other and I swear they were identical. They definitely use the same casing. Same #'s and everything. Even the little orange Viscous LSD were the same on all of them. I will try to find a 240SX tomorrow and take some measurements to see about that swap.

I asked about this in the suspension forum. I am looking at the R230 swap and ran accross some J30's at the yard. I will have a VR kit which gives me fender room. I am exploring the possibility of swapping the R230 and the whole J30 IRS. 5 lug hubs, tougher stubs, bigger brakes, but a lot of time, work and brain cramps. See it here. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7175

I spent about an hour and a half at the yards today. I came across 3 R230's with VLSD. One was out of a Q45, but two were from J30's a 1992 and a 1999. I have been reading old posts on the 230 because I want a limited slip and a tough diff. I was looking at the half shafts from the J30 which are shorter than the Q45 shafts. 1) Do I need 300ZX shafts for the swap or since I am shortening thing anyway, should I pick up the set from the J30? 2) I did a lot of measuring and I think, with a little tweaking, the whole J30 IRS could be swapped into my 240Z. Anyone else looked at this? The J30 setup is ~61" flange to flange. The strut/spring location is a little rearward of the 240Z but I think it could be relocated easily. the forwardmost extension of the J30 subframe would need to be cut off, but it is not necessary. 3) One of the J30's, I believe it was the 1999, had what looked to be rear wheel steer! Cool but not necessary. Did they all come that way, or do some have a solid rear bar to tweak the toe like on the C4 Vettes?

Thanks for the good info. I have seen a few service manuals on eBay. Which one did you get? There is a PDF cd rom one with exploded views and part #'s but I don't think it has step by step stuff. I have also seen an engine service manual for LS1, none of the sellers can tell me if there are wiring diagrams etc. I don't have the Helm's either. The car budget is tight, especially when you try to explain to the wife why you need a $120 book to figure out wiring when she knows you did another vehicle with a 12$ Haynes! Again, thanks for the info.

I think I will just lay the whole thing out on the garage floor plug in the stuff I have and see what happens. I still need some Radiator hoses, a belt and some other little odds and ends. The good news is that I am ready to paint the engine bay. Once I have the electrical stuff worked out, the motor is going in for the last time! Knock on wood! Cyrus, didn't you keep the body control module hooked up for the VATS. I figure if I leave that in with the Camaro column and key that it should work without anything else. No???

I am wiring up the LS1/t-56 now. Jeromio, I know you used Speartech. Cyrus did it all himself and Lonestar1 just had the engine harness. So, here is my situation. I have the Camaro tank, column, and gauges in the car. That stuff is all plug & play. But, the motor was from a 2001 WS6 and has body control module, ABS, radio, power everything, and the anti theft stuff. Since I have the column and the key, I won't have to deal with the VATS. My questions are: What should I keep in the wiring? What about the clutch depressed switch and the other stuff on the pedals? What do they do? There are also two switches on the brakes. What are they? One is for the brake lights and the other? Thanks for your help.