maichor

S&P set back plates and JTR Kit? Don't count on it! I looked into it and it has accessory clearance issues an would be more trouble than buying the stock Corvette mounts from S&P or anywhere else. Plus the JTR setup with S&P set back plates would mean bolting a setback plate to a setback plate, which really increases leverage on the block and Datsun mounting towers. Mounting an LS6 will be the same as an LS1. The pan and motor mounts are different, but you will have to make, or get special mounts anyway. Cyrus used the same mounts that come on the LS6. John's cars uses Camaro mounts. It looks good so far. I got a peek at it. Phantom can tell you more. At this point his conversion is also a one off. John has not started selling kits. If you get the stock mounts with the LS6, you can just do what cyrus did, or wait for kit. Search this forum for LS1 stuff. I have some of my pics and 2 pics from Cyrus here http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/photos3.html

Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Every time you fellow LS1 guys post, I start drooling and dream of the day when I finish my car. (Velo Rossa Spyder Kit with a 2001 LS1/T56.) Cyrus, do you have any other mods? How is your exhaust set up, ported throttle body etc.? My LS1 already has the LS6 style intake, good for a few ponies I guess. I have headers and a nice open exhaust. My car will have a fiberglass hood, fiberglass hard top etc. But, I have added about 100 lbs. of steel reinforcements to the body so. . . Anyway, CONGRATS! You flew, not only at the track, but through your conversion. Awesome!

You said you were going to the track tomorrow? That's today! So . . . . . . What was your time?

Here is another retro revival by Shelby. This is from www.shelbyamerican.com I'm no designer and I'm no artist. So . . . my 2 cents. John, I love the Velo Rossa because it looks classic. Here are a few of the styling pros in my opinion. 1) Wide stance in the rear. To me this means more meat to the street, not to mention it just looks fast. 2) Vents behind the wheel suggest racing, the lower oval is classic. If you are talking about a new car, I would try to keep some of the "womanly" curves and mix in some attitude. The huge front oval of the Cobra looks mean. Same with hood scoops. Most of all, I would like to see the vents as functional, Like the C5 Corvette brake coolant vents and rear tray etc. Take a look a Terry Oxandale's work if you haven't yet. He has done some cool stuff with his car.

I have a '72 240Z as well. The LS1 sits back as far as I could get it and the shifter lines up nicely. So, like Jeromio and Phantom say, getting the shifter of a T-56 to line up depends on the year of your Z. I think that the engine placement in Phantom's car would be a lot more work for me because I am using Power steering. I have worked out my problems with the swap. So, in my case there is no going back. Phantom, I still would love to check out your setup. Maybe when we get back from our Thanksgibing trip, I could give you a ring?

When it comes time for the drive shaft, your best bet locally will probably be Six States Distributors in Orem. They can do just about anything you want. They are a favorite for all of the custom 4X4 stuff in the area. Here in Texas we have sold the our 2 Jeeps and moved to a Z project. Still, I will probably get my shaft from them when I visit my brother's family at Christmas. They do excellent work and are masters at balancing the shaft. They are also very cool. If there is something wrong with the shaft they make for you, they fix it and rebalance at no charge.

There are currently two listed on www.kitcars.com One is done, one is not.

Wow! I'm interested to see what that would look like. I'm not familiar with the Origin top. Any pics? It would be nice to get a hardtop for the VR. I thought John had a hardtop mold. Is that gone with the rest of the stuff. It might be cheaper than making a new mold.

Cyrus! You used the Body control module? Does that mean you found a way to use the ABS sensors, 2 in front, 1 in the rear to get the wheel spin values etc. I have all the WS6 Trans Am donor stuff too, but I couldn't see how to use the sensors and ABS pump with the Datsun stuff.

Two months is better than 2 years! Way to go! Isn't it a blast building it yourself? I have two friends that just bought C5 vettes. One is a Z06 clone with goodies like a Spec stage 4 ceramic coated clutch, cam, heads, Nittos, blah blah blah. I am so jealous. However, the ride was nearly like my ride in Lone Star 1's LS1 Z! BUILD THE DREAM!

Wow! I was thinking about doing the same thing! However, I don't have the guts either. I am putting and LS1 into a Velo Rossa from John Washington. I wanted to know if the Corvette stuff would fit. It looks like it might, but I think the widebody kit is much wider in the front than the Velo Rossa. Maybe I should just drop in the Vette rear end? Good luck guys!

OUCH, DOUBLE OUCH$$$$$!!!! I was under the impression from Jason that his guy could do it for about $500, but that doesn't include coating. If it really does cost that much, I would seriously consider changing the steering. I was looking at the Borgeson stuff. With the odds and ends I picked up with my Ford PS rack, it will only cost ~$200 to add another joint to the shaft and a heim to hold the shaft to the frame and out of the way. Just a thought.

A) 6" when hanging the angle over the frame, 3" bolting below. 1 3/4" C) 1 3/16" D) 3 3/4" Passenger's Side and 4 1/4" Drivers Side E) 17" I used C channel so as not to accumulate water in tubing. My setup is overkill. I used 3/16" mild steel for the angles on the sides. On my setup the center cross member unbolts so I can drop the pan without removing the whole thing. I used 1/4" X 4" X 1 3/4" C channel. I welded lateral supports onto the angles and then welded the new cross member to the old one to prevent forward/rearward motion. I could drop the car off a cliff and I think the mount would be the only thing left. I think 3/16" is plenty beefy. I wouldn't trust 1/8" stuff. Have at it! <img border="0" alt="[2thumbs]" title="" src="graemlins/2thumbs.gif" /> http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104

Hey Phantom, Since you are local, there is a guy that will do custom headers reasonably priced. The benefit is that he can work with the car, instead of shipping parts back and forth. I have his number that I will not post here but I will email. If you use him, tell me if you like him. I am thinking of doing long tubes. Then you can send them off to a coating company. By the way, S&P has be very accommodating. However, they say they will alter their headers to make them fit, but I am on my 3rd set also. The ones you saw on my car worked before the coated them. They were a tacked set. When I got them back, they didn't fit. I am giving them one last shot because their headers are beautiful and reasonably priced.

I went with the 1" X 4" because I am adding more than a cosmetic roll bar. Also, I will start off with 320 HP and will eventaully go over 400. I don't want to twist up like a pretzel and ruin the body work. I suppose that if you are keeping the stock Z setup, either reinforcement option would be fine.

I had a blast cutting the top off my Z as well. It is pure testosterone! !!!CAUTION!!! Even if the car is solid with the roof off, make sure it is totally supported underneath the floor plans before you weld. This is a step mentioned in the VR installation guide that I mentioned to the guy that welded my supports. He didn't listen. Now, with body sag welded into place, I have to rehang the doors. I was a bit miffed, but he practically did it for free, so I bit my tongue. Heat warps metal and welds shrink. So does the hot tubing you weld. Needless to say, I bought a MIG welder and have learned to do my own welding. I have since welded custom motor mounts, custom power steering mounts, and a custom frame for my camaro fuel tank since I am putting in an LS1. Good luck, I am sure your project will be finished a lot sooner than mine. I just hope John Washington gets his tooling back by the time I have the rest of my mechanical done. I still need the front clip, door panels, and cheek panels.

I got the money. I will ship Tuesday because of the holiday. I hope you have the day off. Thanks!

Check your email. I did not sell. I replied and sent a money request to tscott_56@hotmail.com through Paypal. If that is the wrong email, maybe that is why we lost contact. Let me know if you still want the manual.

I am going at a snail's pace because of other priorities (new baby etc.) right now. However, I have finished a few things. 1) LS1 mounted 2) Ford power steering rack mounted 3) Headers completed 4) Camaro fuel tank installed Left to do: 1) Fuel lines 2) A/C . . . going aftermarket 3) Sort out Camaro wiring and install 4) Install Camaro pod in a custom dash 5) Trans mount 6) Driveshaft 7) Swap in the R200 diff. Things I will do once the car is running: 1) Finish the Velo Rossa Spyder kit. 1/3 complete now. 2) 5 lug conversion with better brakes. 3) Interior etc.

On this particular car the wheelie bar is not hydraulic. It is a rachet setup that looks like an e-brake lever inside the car. This is a Dallas car that I have seen. It is totally gutted. A friend of mine said it is the fastest car in its class nation wide. Who knows?

My project is a Velo Rossa Spyder. I have been working on the "guts" for now but I also have the rear fiberglass. 2001 LS-1/T-56 in the car, roof is off, car is gutted, fenders and hood are off, body reinforced, fenders wells enlarged, fuel, electronics and exhaust are in progress. Most of my post have been here: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002465 Some photos: http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/index.html

The S&P mounts have a metal flange on which the biscuit sits. Then, the other smaller rubber goes on the bolt from underneath an inserts up through the flange. If you do not have the large hole, the flange will sit on the crossmember causing the flange to bend. The rubber underneath also would not mate as it was designed. You could grind off the flange and the mount would work with the small hole, but it was not designed to work that way. The purpose of the flange and the insert coming from below is to eliminate lateral sheer forces that will be placed on the bolt without them. You can see the smaller rubber pieces in the picture at the top of page 3 of this post. S&P mounts with towers = $99.00 brand new. (ME) GM towers and mounts = $100 from junk yard (Cyrus) or $$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!! new. Hope that helps! I can email a closeup pic if needed.

Mine is useless to me. I read it through, but I went with an LS1 which is not covered in the manual. It is in good shape. Where in CA are you? I am visiting family in San Diego in a week, or I can just ship it. $10 + shipping?

Yes, this is a long thread. However, it is a very good one. I agree that the Corvette mounts are the best. Use the Corvette towers and the stock Corvette rubber mounts. They are taller and don't require a large hole (1 3/16") like the biscuits I have. On the 2nd page of pictures on my site, you can see the difference in the cross member that goes under the motor. You can see that Cyrus's setup (bottom pic) has the small holes and no extra platform that I had to make for the shorter rubber biscuits. Page 3 shows the taller stock mount--flush against the cross member. (courtesy of Cyrus) Cross member comparison Closeup of the stock Corvette mount By the way Cyrus, if you want me to remove those pics, I will. Do you have a place that you post your pictures?

Thought you guys might enjoy this. Although the ATI Procharger is the most popular SC for the LS1--easy fit in our cars also, here is a new alternative from S&P. I don't know details yet, but hopefully it won't be in the price range of the Lingenfelter or ATI stuff. I guess I should finish the car before I start dreaming up new stuff!