dnatoli

So just roll over to oriellys and tell them I need u joints for a 280z?

The ones that are too small are spicer p161 as far as I can tell. They're too small in the r200 half shafts. The strange thing is that I ordered the exact same product off of msa just at two separate occasions and received two slightly different things. Maybe should I try contacting them?

Not sure how many of you guys have done this, but I need a little help. I disassembled my halfshafts which were pretty well seized up so I had to cut out the u joints. I stripped the cast pieces down and painted them. I've put back together some of them with u joints I ordered from msa. The u joint caps were very tight and required pressing in. I had to order another set of the same product but when they arrived they were spicer joints which they were before and instead of needing to press the caps in they slid right in and now there's a fair bit of slack. Any ideas?

from a maxima right?

Hey guys, I creep on this forum every now and again because I have an rb25 powered 240z. But, I am a great way through a vq35 swap into my s13 coupe and figured that this would be a good place to ask the question I have since there's such a great amount of knowledge here from all the different nissan cars. I am running an aem standalone set up to make it run, but I realized I cannot easily make the drive by wire set up work so I want to go cable driven. Plus I like cable driven set ups the best anyway. Does anyone here know of a cable driven throttle body that bolts up to the factory plenum? And what tps should it have? Daniel

I had problems with fitment on the trans mount for the rb swap into my datsun so I mailed the new mount as well as my factory mount back almost a year ago. I have not yet seen a new mount, but I have communicated with the owner and he is incredibly nice. I guess it has been a year and he claims they have sent me three seperate trans mounts but I have not recieved one yet so.......... make your own judgement. I'm super easy going so I dont get hot and bothered as long as it gets resolved eventually.

Its 25 ton press, but I didnt go past ten because it just seemed really very sketchy to go more than that with how I had the assembly set up.

There are no datsuns in junk yards around here...... I work at a VW dealership. I talked about using the press in the original post. Ten tons of pressure did squat to make the pin move. I like the idea of cutting it from in between the upright and the arm. Thank you sir.

I have a 72' 240z, and I have the rear suspension out of the car so that I can re-do everything. I got one of the spindle pins out with a huge amount of time, and pentrating lube and an air hammer. I also used the tool that everyone recommends on here that somebody makes and sells on here. I started on the second one and the tool broke the threaded end off of the spindle pin. So, I tried the other threaded side of the spindle pin and the same thing happened. So I soaked the spindle in pentetrating lube at least a dozen times a day for a little over a week to help get it free. I used heat, and a hammer as a tuning fork almost to help the lube get into the little air pockets and set the suspension up in the press I have at work. After an hour of fussing around with the press and getting frustrated, I gave up. I made no progress on the pin, rather just mushroomed the little bit that was left of the pin from where it was broken. Before anyone asks the obvious question of did you pull out the little retaining pins, yes I did. The stub axle is out and the drum ass'y is off the hub to make it a little easier to move around. I'm pretty fed up with this rear suspension at this point, and was wondering if anybody had any other advice for me to try or does anybody have stuff for sale that isn't outrageously priced? Thank you

The R200 That I Purchased Off Of A Member Here Arrived Without Flanges. I Understand That The Diff Is From A 280z. Someone Help Me Please!

thanks all, I didnt think of running a second return back to the tank. Where on the tank would it be good to route that return line from the surge tank? should I put that line into the highest point of the tank?

Im in the very slow process of getting an s2 rb25 into my 72 240. Very slow because of work and my BT audi slid into a pole and ive been recovering from that so I havent really been able to move in the ways required to work on cars. But anyway, I try and avoid posting threads because I usually just get some link to another page that only half answers my question or some attitude or being called a noob or something useless. When I do post these, I try and keep it really simple... My question for all of you OG rb swap goers, Would it be better to run my fuel return line into the surge tank or just simply create a spot on the factory gas tank to let the fuel run back into? I am running the baffle-less tank with an inline summit low pressure fuel pump into a surge tank which is then pulled by a walbro up to the engine. Thanks in advance, Daniel

sounds wonderful!

Im in houston! rb25 into a 240 moving slowwwww

I have the motor at home haha I'm at work right now. I know it's a series 2 rb25 but I can't remember what year exactly. Is the aftermarket fuel rails set up for returnless? Because that's what I would like to run

So if I use the greddy intake manifold for my rb25, do I need to get an aftermarket fuel rail and top feed injectors or what? And is the rb's injection system return or return less?

My lower control arms do have the spots for mounts. I guess I just wont worry about this until another day then because I need to focus more about getting my car running than a sway bar haha. Mind if I send you a text RebekahsZ? Danny

And I actually went like ten pages of forums back and couldn't find anything on the subject

I live right outside of Galveston actually haha My car did not come with a sway bar... I got an r200 from a 280z as well as half shafts from a 280z. So I have no idea the routing. I was hoping you all could shed some light for me

If I swap the r200 into the 240 chassis should I run a sway bar from a 280 or can I still use the 240 sway bar with no clearance issues? Thanks in advance, Danny

I like what you did, and I have to go to a radiator shop anyway to have the gas tank boiled and sealed, so 80 bucks is no big deal. If things dont work out with buying bobs radiator, I will do precisely what you have done. thank you Bill, Danny

Thank you kindly, Danny

I know all the information is on here, but I don't have internet, just the data on my super old droid so trying to read through builds for information is quite the chore. I understand the whole "look for yourself, don't bother us" attitude everyone has, but there is no thread about radiators on here. Nothing with dimensions or choices or what people have ran and it could potentially be a good go to source for people in the process of swapping or just researching into the build. I don't mean to come off as an ass or anything, but all I can get as far as info is everyone telling me to read build threads which is an entirely painstaking process when I could post a question, someone with the knowledge and experience to help a fellow car builder out. Now back to radiators. I bought the koyo aluminum radiator designed for the 240 as a bolt in. What I plan to do is cut the oddly angled lower radiator hose and weld it back into place. Ill get some sae water hoses in the right size and tuck them away all sneaky like. Is there any objections to this plan? Anything I haven't quite thought through? Id appreciate all the knowledge and wisdom you have Thank you, Danny

thats exactly what i was planning on doing. so if i ran the koyo radiator for the 240 theres no difference eh?

Alright everyone, ive looked a fair bit and cannot find any info on this. What i want to do is run the aluminum aftermarket radiator made by koyo or mishimoto or something that is the specific 240z application to cool my rb25. will this really affect anything? it would save alot of headaches if i could just order that radiator and bolt it in then fit the hoses properly. I talked to the koyorad racing department and they said they didnt know if it was possible because they havent done it. they told me to just purchase a radiator for the motor im getting and make it fit. but unfortunately, the dimensions on the 240 are so strange that its so difficult to find one that comes close. the way i see it, is that in theory the radiators should be pretty much the same, the only reason they differ is due to size. can someone help enlighten me, or show me what theyre running and how they did it. I'd appreciate it if you could answer the question on this thread instead of sending me their build thread where i have to fish through to find the information. thank you, danny