himself

To close out this topic for anyone else looking for this part, the oil cooler O-ring from a 2003-2006 350z (Nissan part# 21304-JA11A) is a perfect fit replacement for a 1982 L28ET with the rare horizontal oil cooler option for manual transmissions.

Ah, I had not considered MC, thanks I'll check that. I did and they only have the AT version. Thanks though.

It's not 21334-R2400, please read below. I have a 1982 L28ZXT engine from a 280zx with a 5-speed manual transmission, which (as some may be aware) did not come standard with oil coolers. The cars with automatic transmissions did come with oil coolers but the manual transmission versions had to be requested from the dealer and as such they are exceptionally uncommon. The annoying part about this is the MT's oil cooler is different than the AT's oil cooler and uses a completely different O-ring on the engine side. The AT oil cooler everyone is familiar with mounts at a 45-degree angle downward while the MT oil cooler mounts horizontally. Does anyone know the part number of that O-ring? (Again, it's not 21334-R2400, that's the AT version.) I've attached a photo of the oil cooler mounted on the engine and what the O-ring against the engine looks like, it's about 1/4-inch thick, ~67mm inner diameter, and has a square cross-section. I have found two Nissan O-rings that looks similar (part numbers 21304-JA11A and 21304-JK20A) however I cannot find their dimensions to see if they would fit.

That's how I found him years ago and he's been my primary source for parts since. 916-729-7203 for Randy, afaik he only deals locally and doesn't ship parts.

Yes it is. Mine don't feel light at all, they're just right and the car stops quick. They're the dual piston version from a 1999 Toyota Tacoma. Straight bolt on, no modifications necessary. I just upgraded to the LC-2 with a digital hardwired AFR gauge and I'm running a Ford Taurus electronic coil. Having an issue with negative voltage though I haven't been able to nail down yet. The gauge reads the proper AFR but megasquirt is now seeing the values in reverse for some reason.

Thanks Jester. I did an '82 L28 turbo swap almost 2 decades ago and overhauled the electrical system with a megasquirt upgrade with a LC-1 wideband, electronic spark distribution, and 4x4 disc brake upgrade many years back and these forums were invaluable for the information to make those work at the time so it was rather frustrating to provide the part number, wiring diagram, name of the part, and a photo of a simple module yet somehow no one knew what I was talking about in a forum dedicated to this car model. Thanks for the contact Miles, one of my local parts guy's, Randy, found a working module from a '77 and the blinkers are working again.

Thank you for the suggestion Jester. Yes these modules last decades, mine almost made it 45 years, 21 of them with me. I'll look into a similar fuel relay part and see if it will work as a replacement and if not maybe I can trace and pin out the contacts to replace with a modern relay. Otherwise I may just strip it down and rewire the turn signals on a direct circuit and bypass this module entirely. It doesn't help that this part is uncommon due to it being CA specific. I really have no idea how I could be more specific than I've already been. I've given a part number, a photo, the model and year of the car, and the specific name of the part in the official wiring diagram along with the wiring diagram for reference. I asked for a solution to replace or go around it and no one except you Jester have given an answer relating to this specific module. Granted Miles did provide a solution to a combination switch due to my error which I quickly corrected, however no one since has been even slightly helpful regarding this part. We will have to agree to disagree on semantics, I don't know why everyone is so hung up on calling this part by something it's not labeled as but whatever, I really don't care what you call it. I used the names listed in the service manual's wiring diagram (even if I made a mistake and wrote the wrong name the first time, it was still correct, just a different part) and I've revised the title to reflect the switching module as recommended. These forums used to be much more practical and helpful and less grammar nazi-ish when I was a part of it 10+ years ago. I don't know what happened to this place but it used to be the best resource for obscure and difficult zcar solutions, I'm disappointed to see that it has devolved into a place of inconsequential arguments about who is more right.

Call it whatever you want, the official wiring diagram calls it a switch and I'm not here to argue semantics but you guys really seem stuck on that for some absurd reason. I provided the part number and a photo, I can't be more specific than that and I could care less about finding an OEM replacement as much as I care about getting the system to function properly again, I'm open to any alternate parts or workarounds anyone else has done.

Already tried parts wanted in other places, one guy has it and he wants $300 for it so that's a no. Yes I called out the wrong switch the first time I'm sorry, it was right next to the correct one on the diagram and I mixed them up. I never did mention looking for the turn signal switch, I only mentioned it works fine and that was in the follow up post and not the OP. There's only one seat with a 6-pin switching relay underneath it and I'm pretty sure when I originally linked the 75 280z wiring diagram (which it says in the link itself) makes it pretty obvious the model and year. I could spell it out 100 times but if you don't read it you still wont know the answer.

Look Miles, I appreciate you trying to help but you're really going nowhere fast here. You're only giving me information I didn't ask for or already have. I'm not even sure why you linked the service manual without any context.

Sorry, I grabbed the wrong name, it's the "Switching Module (For CA Only)" and the light circuit runs through it, the Floor Temp Relay, and the nearby Checker. And btw, the wiring diagram you linked is the exact same one in my original post. Not sure what you mean by it's missing the right half, the only difference is my link is a PDF and yours is a GIF.

Thank you for the reply but that is not the correct switch. The turn signal switch works just fine. It's the one under the seat. looks like this.

I'm looking for a replacement relay labeled "combination switch" on the wiring schematic (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf), bottom right side of the diagram. It's part number 25230N4300, which was replaced with part B523089985 both of which are discontinued. I even had the local Nissan service center search the country for any leftover stock of either one and nothing. Has anyone figured out what to use in its place or some other type of wiring workaround? The backstory is that my blinkers stopped working, the driving lights and headlights still work and so do the hazards so I know the bulbs are still good and that they do indeed flash with the hazards. I've replaced the blinker relay and even switched it with the working hazard relay and they still don't work. Using an ohm-meter I traced the wiring back to the combination switch where the readings don't make sense, something in the switch must be burned out. I mean it's a 44 year old switch so it's probable. What's weird is the same switch controls the hazards too but those still work. Ideas anyone?

Played with the cranking pulse width settings to no avail. Then I noticed a trend with the fusable links. One was ok looking the other was pretty corroded so I pulled both of them and replaced them. Starts up on the first try now which is much better but I still get kickbacks from the starter. Wouldn't the car run terribly if the timing was off? It runs quite well but starts pretty badly (at least on the first try though now).

I replaced my air flow meter with a MegaSquirt system last year and the car ran great but within the last 3 months the car takes anywhere from a couple minutes to 10 minutes to start. It will just sit there and crank over and over and then hesitate briefly and fire up at random. ( It also tries to crank backwards every now and then while starting normally but it's ben doing that since I installed the MS system last year.) Checked the fuel, got pressure, I can hear the the pump turn on and stay on, checked and cleaned all the sparkplugs, checked the distributor cap for moisture, checked for spark and it all was good. Checked and cleaned all my grounds as well. 21 month old battery, year old MSI coil, brand new spark plug wires, all new spark plugs. I've noticed that the time it takes to start depends on the time its been sitting since its last startup; overnight startups take a long time compared to just sitting for a couple hours when it may only take 30 seconds or so.

Ah ok, I did not know the turbo would make any power without properly spooling up. Anyway, no fuel pressure sender hooked up but the LC-1 has already been selected yet the A/F gauge is still really messed up.

It would be the engine vacuum gauge in the MT window which is hooked from MS directly to the manifold. We never hit the throttle hard enough to generate any spool up yet the vacuum still drops below ambient, not much maybe -1 or -2. We only have 2 fuses, 1 for every 3 injectors. We reinstalled MT after hooking up the LC-1 WB as Mario had suggested yet the fuel pressure gauge and the AFR gauge in MT are still messed up. Fuel reads anywhere from -2 to -7.6 and the AFR never changes from 7.35 which I know is far too low. The car idles better than perfect and has no problems if it isn't moving. No Vacuum leaks, no fuel leaks, no open air hoses. I'm central CA in the foothills if anyone is near there.

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What do you mean, "Which is it?" I can keep the turbo from turning on and the pressure goes above "ambient." The vacuum gauge on MT, while on an incline, pressure goes above ambient w/o the turbo and the car sputters until we get pressure back to below ambience.

If you read up a few we thought that we might've had a vacuum leak that was causing the hesititations of the car but we could find no leaks. Is having negative values of vacuum pressure normal operation? I know that vacuum pressure doesn't stay constant but I thought it had some parameters it pretty much always stayed between. The manual says it should be between 14.9 and 15.5 in. Hg at idle. Our is at 18.8-19.0 which isn't too bad and it jumps up to 24 when we let of the gas pedal rapidly. What we noticed though was that if we got her going, that the faster we got the rpms the lower our vacuum pressure went until around 4500 rpms (without the turbo engaged) the vacuum pressure would drop below 0 and start recording negative values and start choking and sputtering. Whenever the turbo kicked in the vacuum pressure always went below 0 but the car never hesitated. (We keep blowing the 5A fuse going to one of the injector lines when we kick in the turbo and go past 4000rpm, which is annoying but that isn't my main problem).

No I didn't enter any boost values in, inches of mercury (in. Hg) is the value of the vaccuum pressure at that time. I don't think boost values can ever be negative.

My air-to-fuel is still messed up, probably since I have not taken the time to reinstall MT but that is not the main issue. We have checked every vaccuum line on the car and capped them off one by one ans tested the car to see if it still hesitates and it does) and this is all the data we can find. The engine idles at 700-800rpm with a vaccuum pressure of 19 in. Hg. It hesitates at any RPM and any KPa but the higher the rpm goes the lower ourt vaccuum pressure gets until it goes negative around 4500 rpm. If the turbo happens to kick in the vaccuum has gone as low as -7 in. Hg but the car will not hesitate under boost only while driving up an incline or under any amount of pull. When a hesitation does occur the vaccuum pressure goes all over the board.

The 10:1 and 20:1 settings, were those to be entered in Logworks or the Lambda Programmer? I could not get Logworks to run at all, for som odd reason it could not connect to the same port that I've been using for MS. The programmer did work and there was a setting area under analog 2 where I could set it to 0v at 10.1 and 5v at 20.1 but as for 10:1 and 20:1 I did not see anywhere I could enter those values.

The pink wire is pin 23 on the MS board. In the Innovatek manual it was saying that the analog 2 should go to an ECU and the analog 1 to a gauge and siince I have no gauge we put the brown wire to pin 23 (the pink wire) on the MS ecu. Should analog 1 go to pin 23? We started the car just a few minutes ago to watch as many gauges as we could to see what went wrong when the car hesitated and we found the vaccuum pressure went negative right as the car did its thing. Tried this a few times and then the 5A fuse blew on one of the injector lines. We also couldn't tell if the WB was working other than my a/f ratio was really messed up. I couldn't get the WB programmer to connect to the WB do I couldn't set those above mentioned values you said to enter. At least we know it is the vaccuum line now but we arn't sure where to start. Any ideas? All the lines seem to be ok, maybe the head gasket or manifold?

Found out some of the colors were backward on the MS diagram and that the LED Innotek gave us was defective so now the WB works, well at least we were able to calibrate it so far. Here's how it is now set up: Black wire of the WB into the red wire of the LED Black wire of the LED into the black wire of the push button Other black wire of the push button to ground WB blue wire to ground WB white wire to ground WB brown wire to pink MS O2 wire (pin 23) WB red wire into distributer relay for constant switched power (pin 87) WB yellow wire still unused Still have a slight problem with the ignition white wire with a red stripe having constant power instead of being switched. Added a cut-off switch to remedy the situation for now, might be permanent or temporary.