himself

Well we put the LC-1 WB in, wired it up according to the Innovtek manual and it does not even turn on. Here's how the manual told us to wire the LC-1 (We have he blue box version) Blue wire to ground White wire to ground Black wire of push button to ground Black wire of LED to ground (All 4 of those are soldered to the same ground) Black wire of WB to the other black wire of the push button and the red wire of the LED (Those 3 are soldered together) Red wire of WB to 12v power source (We have it on the pink O2 wire of the MS ECU as the MS diagram said) Brown wire of WB is wired to the fuel pump relay at pin 87 with a 10A fuse Yellow wire is unsused and taped up

Hmm ,the fuel tank vacuum never occured to me. I had orginally replaced the old locking cap with a new twist on cap since the old one hung there rather loosely, the new one is exceptionally tight. I'll give that a try too, thx.

According to the Megamanual and some people here we were advised to get the engine running and tune it as best as we could without the wide band first then put it in when we got it going fairly well. We'll check the fuel inlet screen and the injectors next, if that doesn't do it then we'll put in the WB and see if that does fix it.

I had started the Megasquirt conversion to fix a problem that seemed to originate from the air flow meter where once the car was warmed up that after a long drive or on a climb the car would lose all power and choke it's way along. Everytime I got a new AFM the problem was fixed for about 3 months then it would start again so I pulled out the AFM and put in a MSnS system. Took me about 3 months to get it installed and running but it works. The wideband is currently not installed since we are still playing with basic tuning but this has not fixed the problem at all. Fuel pump works great, it's an after market turbo pump and brand new. Anyone have this problem or know what may be causing it?

What is the VB921, I've seen the name before but have no clue what it is.

I am getting a few sparks from my coil every now and then, I bought a new MSD blaster 2 coil and still have the same problem. Here is what I have verified; -I have 12v to the coil positive terminal when the key is in the On and Start positions. -I have MS pin #36 to the negative side of the coil. -I am getting a spark from the coil maybe once every 10 revolutions when I turn the motor and the car will pop like it wants to start. -I have adjusted the distributor timing to all angles with no effect. ('82 turbo CAS crank angle sensor distributor) -MS squirt light flickers with spark but no spark reaches the plugs. -The inverted spark option in MS was set to No so I changed it to Yes but still no effect. (MSnS, Megatune 2.25) -When I first wired it up several weekends ago I had plenty of spark but then it stopped and that's when I got the new MSD coil. Here is my Spark Settings Table I had the car running initially but I've been trying to get this MS thing to wokr for over 2 months now. I'm quite ready to rip it all out and just spend the extra money and get an SDS system installed.

Which wires are the pip/SAW. (I'm not always the best with acronyms)

I have the car all wired and ready to go with MS, double checked all my wiring and tried to get her to start again. This time it started briefly but promptly died and does the same thing every time. The fuel pump will turn on when the key is turned to ON but will turn off after 2 seconds and I do not hear it turn back on when I start the car. Not sure what is going on. Also there are flashes of light coming from under the distributor cap, is that not a good thing? I have spark from the coil to the dizzy and from the dizzy to the plugs but those flashes don't seem normal to the operation of the car. Oh yea another note, the RPM gauge on the laptop screen of the MS program does not seem to function at all. I have the starter set to start at 300rpm and idle at 750 but the gauge does not change at all. Any ideas?

You were right, Radioshack did have them but the person on the phone doesn't know squat about their stock or what they carry. Thx

Ok, so where'd you get the 1k 1/4 watt resistors? Radioshack doesn't carry them.

I got the car all wired up and ready to start. She turns over but though I have spark from the coil to the dizzy I have no spark from the dizzy to the plugs. I noticed that I did not wire up the green/black dizzy line with a 12v lead and 1k resistor to it (like the article on diyautotune.com says about 280zx dizzy's), it's only wired to the shielded wire on the MS. Can I use a 10k resistor I have lying around or go without the resistor and justa 12v lead?

Ok, thank you for the info. Though, is there a way to tell when it is done? A pop up box or anything?

I did not see this mentioned in the mega-manual, maybe I just missed it but how long does it take to burn the settings from the laptop to the MS? There are no indicator lights or sounds that I noticed going on.

Ahh, would that also be causing it to perform this error as well? Once I hit no and load up MT, run the diagnostic to make sure the port works and I can see the gauges move when I depress the pedal if I try and burn any setttings to the MS all the gauges turn pink and it says "no response." I know not to try and burn it with the car started but the key is set to on and it does this. Is this just a user error or related to hitting the no button to load it?

I've been searching for a few hours about what settings I should enter before starting the motor for the first time since I installed the MS-1 3.0 in my car but I've not had much luck at all finding the data I need. What do I enter for the constants and enrichments fields? I found some data like what to enter for the PWM fields and but not much more than that. I don't know if I have low of high impendance injectors, or of it's even or odd fire or how many squirts per cycle and all the other fields are supposed to be. The motor is a stock '82 turbo.

One guy said to just hit "No" and ignore the error so unless anyone has a fix to the problem I'll just do that.

I cannot start MegaTune, when I click the icon I get this error message: Controller code version does not match signature in egaSquirt-I.ini. Expected "0x14" (found in ini file) Received "" (from controller) Table corruption may occur, this is usually a very serious problem. Terminate MegaTune now? Yes/No I have the cable plugged into my DB9 port and the Megasquirt, I tried the USB converter but my laptop did not recognise the converter and would not talk to it but the DB9 worked. How do I fix this?

Found it. Don't bother replying. Here's the link for those looking http://www.megamanual.com/files/software/ The one titled "MegaTune225p1_setup.exe"

All the MegaTune links on DIY are dead but I did get MST3000 for now. Should I keep this one instead or MegaTune?

Or just a link to the download of MegaTune would be nice too.

Megasquirt.info's link to the dev versions of MegaTune is dead and I'm not sure which is the latest version. Anyone know?

I understand that aluminum is a fine ground, heck that is what residential a/c units use to connect to the 220 in CA, but I prefer to keep all the grounds as close to each other as possible and grounded to the same object. All my grounds except for the engine itself is grounded to the inside of the body so I wanted to put that one there as well. Though I was unsure about mixing grounds, all mine go to steel and I did not want any interference by grounding that one to aluminum, thought maybe the currents might flow slightly different between the two.

I didn;t know about that air bubbles part. Then I'll uncap the lines and just link them from the passenger side out back through the tb and bypass here it used to go into the air regulator since it's no longer there. Thx for that piece of info moby.

I pulled the air regulator so I'm just going to cap off that coolant line for now. Thx.

On a stock '82 zxt motor there is a metal line running from the passenger side of the engine, around the front of the motor, under the fuel rails where it becomes rubber and goes into the air regulator, comes back out the other side and goes into the back of the throttle body. From there it returns to the thermal housing and goes back into the coolant stream. Can I cap off the ends of this tube at the thermal housing and the passenger side where it comes through? All it does is pass through the tb real quick and return to the coolant flow. (It is not actually regulated by the air regulator, datsun just used that as a mounting place.)