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AxisZ

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About AxisZ

  • Birthday 06/30/1988

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    Buffalo, New York

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  1. Ended up replacing the igniter and the car started right up. WOOT
  2. So I've made some progress with my wiring. I found the missing capacitor so the b/w wire no longer burns. Now my problem is I can't seem to get spark. The fuel pump primes for 5 sec when the key is on, injectors send fuel while cranking if the crank angle sensor is plugged in, but i can't seem to get spark while cranking. I tested my old coil's primary and secondary resistances and found it was shot so I bought a new one. Still can't get spark while cranking. I hooked up a spark plug directly to the coil and grounded it then turned my ignition switch to on. While grounding the negative side of the coil I was able to get spark from that spark plug. When I hook up the blue wire from the igniter to the negative side of the coil and turn the key to start the same spark plug will no longer produce a spark. So my question is what could possibly be not working, the igniter, ecu, bad wiring on my part, or maybe a bad and rotor and how can I diagnose it? Thanks
  3. If you're looking for used old school wheels check out the 4ag forums. Lots of wide, low offset wheels that will fit our cars.
  4. I really don't know what that wires for. I was just trying to go by what the swap guide said and the wiring diagram. Theres a clearer picture of the wire in question a few posts up. I tried securing the coil bracket to body to get a better ground and now it seems that instead of the black/white wire burning my fusible links begin to burn instead. I guess for now I'll finish installing my new tank and fuel lines and attempt to get the motor running with the wire unhooked.
  5. I'll try that later today. The wire that keeps burning is the middle one in this pic between the 2 headlamp washer connectors and boost sensor connector. Its kind of possible to see where the plastic burned just before the bullet connector. Maybe I'm just wiring this one wire incorrectly. The turbo swap guide says to connect it to a condenser on the coil bracket but the 280zxt wiring diagram shows it going to the dizzy. My question is what does everyone else hook it up to?
  6. Unfortunately I only had my camera phone on me at the moment so this was the best pictures i could take. Other then the "igniter" (whatever that box with the 2 pronged connector is called) there is nothing else on the coil bracket. The black/white wire coming out of the igniter is hooked up to the positive side of the coil, and the blue wire goes to the negative side and then to a resistor and from there it goes to the tach.
  7. I'm currently at work so I can't take any pictures at the moment but I literally wired it exactly as shown in the picture minus the condenser. The wire is the black/white one with the bullet connector in this picture from the turbo swap thread and I have that hooked up to the little metal tab on the dizzy. I then spliced the single black/white wire on the right side of this next picture to the ign/on wire on the ignition switch. The yellow wire on the right side at the top I spliced to the start wire on the ignition switch and the black wire with the gray shield I bolted on the chassis.
  8. I've just about finished wiring everything, the car cranks, fuel pump works etc but one problem I've run into is wire that burns when I turn the key to on. The wire in question is the black and white wire in the picture that goes to a condenser and then to the dizzy. I never got the condenser when I bought the swap so its currently not there, would that be possible reason for why it keeps burning?
  9. Gotta love how things always break at the worst possible times. My e30's alt crapped out on me 2 weeks ago and the heater core began leaking yesterday, so now I have no heat when I actually really need it. Too bad things can't break when it's warmer outside.
  10. Didn't really get much done since I have exams coming up but the engine and tranny are out. Battery tray area is a bit rusty but thankfully its all surface rust and should come off with a little bit of sanding. Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow to remove all the wiring, brake and fuel lines, and begin applying the stripper.
  11. So after buying the Z in February I've finally decided to get started on my l28et swap. My current goals at the moment are to simply get the swap running mostly stock and converting to Megasquirt after. Today I began taking the front end apart and removed the cowl and the fenders just to see what rust was hiding under them. Car before After (camera phone + me moving = fail, I know) Driver side Passenger side As you can see there's tons of surface rust along with rot in the bottom corner beside the doors. Also discovered the previous owner decided to hide these beauties in the wheel wells by screwing on some sheet metal and covering it with undercoating Driver side Passenger side Thankfully thats just about the worst of it. The rails under the floors are mostly solid but I still plan on welding on some baddog units. Also managed to get most of the harness disconnected and removed the radiator as well. Going to try and get the engine and tranny out by tomorrow and begin stripping the engine bay so I can spray it with rustoleum. Surprisingly there's zero rust in the bay including the battery tray and I'd like to keep it that way. The l28et is probably the only real progress I've manged to make so far. Spent most of the summer tearing it down and even though it seemed it was rebuilt at some point because of the .5mm oversized pistons and crosshatch on the cylinder walls, I decided to throw in new rod and main bearings, rings, gaskets, timing components, and a kameari 1mm metal headgasket to bump up the compression. All that's left is to make some block off plates for the egr and aac valve and finding a large enough bolt to fit in the hole left behind the emergency release valve. Some goodies that came in the mail recently Fidanza aluminum flywheel, Centerforce 240mm dual friction clutch, and a Treadstone TRV25S intercooler. Also planning on picking up a Hobart Handler 140 to replace my Harbor Freight special 90 amp flux core welder so I can actually do some decent welding.
  12. As others have said, heat the area well with a torch and give it another shot with locking pliers.
  13. Guaranteed the battery just got drained after all the times he tried to start it. Jumping it should solve the problem.
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