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Goose52

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About Goose52

  • Birthday 09/01/1952

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  1. I paid $5884.18 on September 13, 1972 As someone said in an earlier post ... I think I'll keep her ...
  2. I've had the Datsun Comp quick-steering knuckles in my car for about 30 years. No problem on the highway, on the twisties, or around town. However, for me there was a considerable increase in steering effort at parking speed - especially when backing up into a parking space. It wasn't a big problem when I was younger. Now, at age 55 and with the upper body strength starting to decline, I now have to pop the seatbelt so I can lean forward and get over the wheel to crank it over (and I usually run 40psi in the tires). At some point - say when I'm 70 or so, I will probably have to put the stock knuckles back in ... and get a bigger steering wheel to boot ! Also, I do rub on the TC rod at full lock - and this is with 205/60-15 tires on 6" wide 0 offset wheels. It only happens at nearly full lock and I only use that much lock when parking. It would have to be a really sharp, low-speed autocross turn to need that much lock in a driving (not parking) situation. However, this could be a concern for those of you running wider tires ...
  3. FSM = factory service manual. Standard plugs were the NGK BP6ES. 37 years of use has proven this plug to be the best bet your application. FSM says to gap to .031 to .035 - with your hotter coil, you might do well at the .035 gap.
  4. Picked up a bottle of the 4-cyl treatment over the weekend and added it to the crankcase of my L-28. I just changed oil about 300 miles ago and didn't want to wait for the next oil change. I have one of the Schneider cams with the bad rep about the cam lobe wear. No problems so far but I only have about 3,000 miles on the cam. I hope this STP additive, and later, using Valvoline racing oil, will help ...
  5. VERY clean! Good job. I put all these switches in the same location 30 years ago ... I wish I had been smart enough to think of putting them under the ashtray lid ! Of course, I also wish I had been smart enough to keep the ash tray and lid assembly too but tossed them during a move ...
  6. I always set the shoulder at the bottom of the piston ... until I read the ZTherapy method. As you say - makes perfect sense. Sometimes folks do find a better solution than the factory guys !
  7. Actually, there's yet another camp - the "ZTherapy" method. Take off the dome from one carb and pull the piston. Run the jet all the way up until it stops. Loosen the needle lock-screw on the piston and pull the needle down with the shoulder a bit below the bottom of the pistion. Tighten the needle screw just enough to hold the needle but still loose enough that the needle can slide back into the piston. Then, carefully lower the piston into the carb body until it's sitting on the bottom of the carb. Then, carefully pull the piston back out and tighen the needle lock-screw. Reassemble carb and lower the jet the usual 2 1/2 turns as your initial tuning position. Repeat on other carb. You end up with the needle at the perfect position where it's contacting the jet with the jet all the way up. It is a known position and will be the same starting point on both carbs. Usual mixture adjustment after needle position is set...
  8. This was also covered at Datsun Garage here (scroll down to the oil section): http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/index.htm It'll be Valvoline Racing for my next oil change. It's Back to the Future - Valvoline Racing was my oil of choice 35 years ago when I first bought the car !
  9. And to throw another part number into the fire - the number of the "mesh-type" grill that's on my car right now ...
  10. I ran that same Carter pump from the late '70s until 2006. Before '82, it fed a 331ci SBC - after '82 it fed an L-28 with SUs. No problems with pressure or flow rate with either engine. HOWEVER, like was mentioned above, this is a noisy pump; even after pressurizing the lines, I could still hear it running whenever idling. I pulled the Carter out in 2006 as part of a mechanical refresh (it was still running fine but I just wanted to change it out due to it's age). I'm now running a Mallory 70LP (low pressure) - 4psi, 70gph. This is a very quiet pump and I'm pleased with it so far. Some have said the Mallorys don't last as long as other pumps - I guess only time will tell ... Goose
  11. I paid about $225 for this grill a few years ago so this is a great deal ... if they're in stock !
  12. Contact these guys to see if they have any left - the price is VERY friendly ! http://www.nissanparts.cc/catalog/?section=362
  13. I read the road test of the 240Z in the April 1970 issue of Road&Track magazine and recognized the car as a great value. Then, in 1971 I visited my brother down in Miami and he pulls up in a blue 1970 Z - so that was my first ride. Between the article and that ride, I said to myself: I should get one of these someday... Bought my Z new in 1972 while in the Marines, using a re-enlistment bonus to pay cash for the car. Had a BRE/Interpart header, spook, and rear spoiler installed by the dealer at delivery. After I had the car for a month or so, drove up to the BRE/Interpart shop in El Segundo, CA and bought the Mulholland suspension package. In ’73, put in a hotter cam. In ’74, bought a new WR OD 5-speed, driveshaft, and R-190 LSD w/4.44 gears from Datsun Comp ($575 through a mechanic friend at a dealer). The car scooted pretty good with that gearing. Car was up on blocks for a year while I was stationed in Japan in late ’74 into ’75. By 1977, I wanted more power, so skipped the triple carb scene and went with a 331ci SB Chevy – 11:1 forged, cam, Edelbrock Tarantula manifold, 650 Holley double-pump carb, headers. Had to pull the R-190/4.44 out and put a R-180/3.36 in for the V-8 (the R-180 lasted while the V-8 was in). After 5 years with the V-8, I got married, needed a better transportation car, and was getting caught up with smog/legal issues with the swap, so in 1982, put in an L-28 with just a slightly hotter cam, and another 5-speed. In 1983, the R-180 pinion gear finally failed while I was doing a "agressive" 1-2 shift (must have been something to do with the V-8 service!) so put in an R-200/3.54. In ‘86/’87, did a moderate refresh of the car – went through the mechanicals, had it repainted original color (901 silver). Then, didn’t do much but drive and enjoy it for nearly 20 years. Then, in late 2005, I started a mechanical refresh again (mostly suspension). In December 2005 (unfortunately) the head cracked and I had an oil pan full of coolant – so, an unplanned engine rebuild. As long as the engine was apart, went with flat-top pistons and a hotter cam. In January ’06, decided to go to the MSA show, so I worked on the cosmetics a bit and finally refreshed the interior. Just this year I installed Z-Therapy carbs with SM needles. The car should now be ready for another 20 years of driving. I will then be about 75 years old, and will probably not be able to steer the thing, so will have to pull out the quick steering knuckles and put stock ones in, and put in a really BIG steering wheel … and then drive it some more! Over all this time, the car has only been out of service (not counting the year on blocks) for about 6-7 weeks due to engine swaps, rebuilds, paint, etc. It was a daily driver for the first 17 years and about a “twice a week†driver since then. It’s been a long, but fun, 35 years of ownership.
  14. ATS (Germany) 15x6, 0 offset, 205/60-15 Yokohama AVS-100. (And I'm still looking for one more of these mags!)
  15. Well, I was tipped off about this thread by a PM from Lorenzo. Otherwise, I lurk over here every once and a while but obviously don't post much. Although, since I had a 331ci SBC in my car from '77 until '82, I was an EARLY hybrid kinda guy !
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