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str8pipez

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Posts posted by str8pipez

  1. So the speedo cable goes into the unit and then another cable goes out from the unit to your speedometer?

     

    If that is the case, you will need to buy a stock speedometer cable to keep your speedometer functioning.

    Yes, OR switch that last remaining OEM gauge to a GPS Speedhut and skip the cable. But yes, the left over cable is to short. btw, is there a cap for the speedo connection at the trans?

  2. It is connected to the linkage and has a vacuum. One cable comes from the speedo into this box, the other cable (orange and long) goes to the trans. No indication inside the car that it has, or ever had cruise control. But hey, could be...

  3. My 75 has the 50A alternator and I will be adding MS soon as well as a small amp for audio. I'd like to upgrade the alternator for a good solid charge and electrical supply, so will a 280ZXT alt at 70A be sufficient, or should I use a GM 10si, 12si, etc at 94A+.?

     

    Anyone have a suggestion?

  4. While digging around for parts to complete my swap I have started to consider the spark area. I'll be using MS for sure. The question is (and it's probably been covered) should I do the ZXT distributor or skip that completely since I'm starting from ground zero and do something distributor less, or what?

  5. "so expect to spend quite a bit fixing the car, or spending 15k or more if you find a well maintained one". Not true.

     

    Buy the most car you can afford and your are MILES ahead.

     

    $15K? I spent $4,600, including the shipping across 2 states. Looks bitchin and starts like new every single time. Sure I dumped some cash into but I'm a grown up and that's what we do.

     

    I would suggest limited posting until you digest this site front to back, side to side. Even the stuff you don't think you need.

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  6. I currently have the muffler that came with the MSA exhaust kit (DynoMax) installed on my 75 L28. While it performs as it should, the looks leave a little to desired. I'm considering a Vibrant 1056, anyone have any experience with these? The tip is a whooping 4" which may be a deal killer. Other suggestions?

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  7. Another problem with the ultra cheap welders is parts availability. Sometimes they use squirrely parts that a weld supply store doesn't carry, and sometimes aren't even available anywhere.

     

    I wouldn't be afraid of trying a Eastwood machine though.  If you can find a 110V Hobart it's the same as a Miller.

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