str8pipez
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Posts posted by str8pipez
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So the speedo cable goes into the unit and then another cable goes out from the unit to your speedometer?
If that is the case, you will need to buy a stock speedometer cable to keep your speedometer functioning.
Yes, OR switch that last remaining OEM gauge to a GPS Speedhut and skip the cable. But yes, the left over cable is to short. btw, is there a cap for the speedo connection at the trans?
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It was cruise control. Wiring dead ended under the dash, nice and hidden.
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It is connected to the linkage and has a vacuum. One cable comes from the speedo into this box, the other cable (orange and long) goes to the trans. No indication inside the car that it has, or ever had cruise control. But hey, could be...
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Emailed him a week ago. Have not heard back, thus my search. Thanks anyway though!
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Anyone have one to unload?
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This is something that I have been considering as well. I'd like to keep my A/C and possibly do the same thing on the front side. I guess I could do the back side as well. Surrpised if this hasn't been done yet.
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From what I've gathered he also travels.
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While searching for a tuner around St. Louis, MO and finding NONE, I expanded my search to neighboring states and found Scott Clark. Google "Scott Clark Megasquirt" and check this dude out. Tuning Wizard. May have to take my Z to Nebraska!
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TONS of relevant posts in Turbo and Megasquirt sections. Here's one to start:
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/82371-my-notes-on-the-na-l28-to-turbo-swap/
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My 75 has the 50A alternator and I will be adding MS soon as well as a small amp for audio. I'd like to upgrade the alternator for a good solid charge and electrical supply, so will a 280ZXT alt at 70A be sufficient, or should I use a GM 10si, 12si, etc at 94A+.?
Anyone have a suggestion?
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While digging around for parts to complete my swap I have started to consider the spark area. I'll be using MS for sure. The question is (and it's probably been covered) should I do the ZXT distributor or skip that completely since I'm starting from ground zero and do something distributor less, or what?
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In regard to penetrating oils, it's hard to beat GIBBS. Works like magic.
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"so expect to spend quite a bit fixing the car, or spending 15k or more if you find a well maintained one". Not true.
Buy the most car you can afford and your are MILES ahead.
$15K? I spent $4,600, including the shipping across 2 states. Looks bitchin and starts like new every single time. Sure I dumped some cash into but I'm a grown up and that's what we do.
I would suggest limited posting until you digest this site front to back, side to side. Even the stuff you don't think you need.
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It's a Facebook page and has pretty nice work:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabrication-Life/100365216719167
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I currently have the muffler that came with the MSA exhaust kit (DynoMax) installed on my 75 L28. While it performs as it should, the looks leave a little to desired. I'm considering a Vibrant 1056, anyone have any experience with these? The tip is a whooping 4" which may be a deal killer. Other suggestions?
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Another problem with the ultra cheap welders is parts availability. Sometimes they use squirrely parts that a weld supply store doesn't carry, and sometimes aren't even available anywhere.
I wouldn't be afraid of trying a Eastwood machine though. If you can find a 110V Hobart it's the same as a Miller.
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The Speaker 8700 is the shit. Wow!
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Interesting topic as I am considering going down the very same road, although I'd like to get the MS in and running first.
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For "only" $350 that thing is beautiful.
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I'd check Datsun Spirit.
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What's your budget?
How to clean your fuel injectors - DIY
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
$16-18 here:
http://www.osidetiger.com/Pages/requestservice.aspx
Someone here has used them with good results. I'll most likely send my Supra injectors here.