Driftinrican

You may want to check the condition of your fuel before the filter as well. I had a similar problem with my z. But mine has a few more Issues. But if the fuel is brown or reddish drop the tank and have it cleaned out professionally. From my experience they tend to rust if not driven often. Heck when I took mine down I found ten pounds of rust in it. So I had paid for a fuel pump when I didn't need one.

Thanks for the information, And the warning.

Ok i have a 77 280z with a l28e (stock as far as i can tell). in the 2 years ive own the car its only been drivin 20miles top. not because i dont drive it. manly its just vary unreliable. any way i just got the car started after having it apart for the last 6 months gas tank rusted from the inside sent it out had it cleaned up. finialy got around putting it in. so i primed the pump and the fule rail using my power probe to keep the battery from dying. it started struggled a lil at first but then ran aout as good as i was expecting it to. now after running for about 10-15min when i went to rev it a lil the engine started to back fire. pop and eventaly die. went to start it back up it would barly idle misfire and die again. then it woulden do nothin not even crank. (found loose + cable) got it to start again and i hear a faint vacuume leak that gets louder as the engine reves up. i fount my intake elbow dry and spit open. i currently cannot find that elbow so for now im taping it up to see if it will run better. my question is i would like to eliminate as many vacuume lines as i can if possible. so if some one can send me a link to what i can delete and what needs to stay. and how exactly sensitive is that aif flow meter to vacuume leaks. note i still have many more problems but i just want the engine to run smooth for now.

Ok cool thanks. I knowI'm going to have to get another regulator due to the fact both of mine fried I think but I got warrantee on the new one. I'll check my field winding tonight

Ok so check the field winding in the regulator out the altinator? Sorry for the nube Queston just used to newer cars

Ok well I'm back again trying to figer this out. Today I by chance noticed one of my fuse able links was getting rather hot compared to the others. So I go to make a new one then I noticed a 40 amp fuse for my 240 sx next to my electrical connectors and 2 blades that fit it perfectly. So naturally I cut out the fusable link connection and install my fuse instead. Yay my first modification to my s30. Well I start it back up. And yah no charging. Look at the number 4 fuse and it blew (again). So I replace it unfortunately for me I only have 30 amp replacements on hand. So I start it up fuse doesn't blow this time. And my charging system stabilized as long as I had a good battery hooked up to it. But then I lost the charge when I revved it up. This ordeal is driving me nuts. Can some one please help? I have searched the fourm for a similer issue but didn't see any like this one.

a working project

ok i have a 77 datsun bone stock from what i can tell minus some missing parts but runs. my current issue is driving me nuts. i keep poping the fuse that goes from the fuse box to the regulator. and im not sure why. i took the altinator to A.Z. (auto zone) to have it tested it past so i replaced the regulator thinking that that was the reasion it stop charging. to my suprise i was wrong i had poped the fuse in the fuse box. easy fix right so i robbed a fuse from SOC MATADOR z that sitting in my garage waiting for him to finish it up... SHH dont tell him... well that fuse was a diffrent amprage fuse and i poped it too. from what ive seen with my test light is i have voltage at the fuse bord untill i turn lights on then it goes dark on all circuts except the main circuts. any way when its running with my jump box on it charges at 13.2v normal the moment i take it off it goes to 15v way too high. and if i rev up the engine it blows the regulator fuse. has any one had this issue before i want to fix it for as little as i can i know how to do most of the work just getting cought up in my electracal fog can some one point me in the right direction.

Well since I'm a little taped out on cash for this month what I did today thanks to a few rattle cans I had left hanging around I went ahead and painted my mismatched fender and head light housing primer grey. Which is alt better than old grey white and black .

Well I like the fact that e85 is a renewable source of fule vs gasoline which is not. But what I eventually want to do is not just run e85 but a mixture of it like 75 percent e85 and 25 percent gasoline. This way I can get slightly better gas millage than running a full tank of e 85 and less detonation than a full tank out gasoline. So as got going to a place that has no e85 I still want to be able to use gasoline. So ideally I want a flex fule z. And thanks for all the info and I have learned how to use this sure a little bit better now so hopefully I don't ask many more nube questions.

Ok my question is simple... I know E85 has an octain rating of like 106 vs the 92-93 octain we see at the pump. What I want to know is what do I need and how to convert my old l28 to run on E85. if there is a three out there can some one send me the link so that I can resurch it more and possibly run my own high performance Eco friendly l28 with some not so friendly power.

Ok I just bought a 77z two Weeks ago. So here's my problem none of the electronics work except headlights and ecu. I found out that I have no power to the fuse box on 3 of the 5 strips is there a fuseable link in the harness that goes to the fuse box.