Lockjaw
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Posts posted by Lockjaw
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You could also do the mega squirt, although I want to see some people put down some really good numbers with one first.
HINT HINT.
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Well you know who made 417 +/- Hp to the wheels with the turbo I have, and 420cc injectors. Its only a 60 trim with a stage 5 turbine wheel.
He also did a backpressure test on it, and at 22 psi of boost he had 23 psi of back pressure. .63 AR housing. The .82 would probably add another 25 or so hp to the wheels, the offset is going to be time to get to boost. Personally I would stick with the .63.
If I was drag racing, then I would most certainly have the .82, and I would spray the heck out of it to get it into boost.
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Moral of the story' date=' don't marry a skank.[/quote']
oh man... it might be wrong for me to laugh at that, but that IS the funniest thing i ever seen, heard or whatever...
omg HHAHAHAHA.
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Go ahead and laugh, that is what I am going to do when she figures out the money I paid her to buy her out of the house, that my attorney classified as alimoney, well that is taxable income to her, tax deductible for me. get ready to pay you BIOTCH. Not to mention I took away a house and acreage that had been in her family for 3 generations.
Another moral: If you marry a SKANK, lawyer up good when it is time to divorce, you do get what you pay for.
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See sig, although I am not an S30, I have more tonage to haul around.
Pump gas, and drag radials.
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Who is Donna?
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Actually, venting to atmo with a maf car is not good at all, it creates a really rich condition, which slows boost response. It was awful in my car until I recirculated it.
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Checked with them, not the right stem length.
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Does anyone have a source for SS valves for the P90?
I want to upgrade mine while I have the head worked on. The only place I have seen anything is Top End, and Steve told me they are having some made, and it will be at least 2 months before they will be available.
I don't want to wait that long.
I know I could shim the cam towers up and shim the springs, but considering I am going with the 2mm thick headgasket, I thought that would not be a smart idea, although my block has been decked 30 thous, already.
So let me hear something from you turbo guys about valves. Thanks
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TO4b is S, V and H, in order of smallest to largest.
I do think you will see a better reponse with your boost by going to a better WG actuator, the stock one sucks in my opinion. A dual port one is nice, becasue in addition to the spring pressure, you are adding boost pressure on the bottom side of the diaphram in the housing, which helps keep it closed.
When I added this turbo I got from Jeff, I had some major creep problems due to the airflow coming thru it, and it would make say 10 psi and then as you got going, it would go up to 15. This is with my dual port ones, only using the top port. When I added the bottom one it improve dramatically, as did it when I had a Stage 3 turbine wheel.
thats my story and I am sticking to it.
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Trim is a ratio of inducer diameter to exducer diameter, on a compressor wheel and turbine wheel.
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I have done it, did not particularily enjoy it.
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Bump. Any updates??
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I dont' know what you guys are doing if your spool-up is over 3k. with my stage 3 turbine, and H3 compressor, I was at full boost, 20+ psi by 2800 rpms. Now with a stage 5 I am still there by 3200 rpms, so you should be checking something.
My personal position is you will get much better spool-up by ditching the stock Wastegate actuator, and running a dual port, and using a boost controller to introduce boost to the lower port for raising and lowering your boost.
Also, you can put any wheel you want in a housing, but I would put an E housing on my car, and run an E wheel. If you want better spool-up, consider a .48 ar turbine housing, I had one, it will make your car brutal from a dead stop, you notice it will fall over in the upper rpms. Also you could go to the stage 2 turbine wheel, which has less mass, and as sleeper pointed out, it is the turbine that really determines spool up.
I would run a 3 inch exhaust, and convert over to a mass air system, like a 300 ZXT VG30 arrangment, alot of people have that down now, and the MAF is way more responsive then the AFM.
Sleeper, your issue with upper rpm power could be your turbine wheel.
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50 or 60 trim are good wheels, supposedly putting a 60-1 in an E housing is worth 50 extra cfm.
If you want power more towards the upper end of your goal, I would go stage 5 turbine, 60-1 compressor.
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That doesn't look to bad, I think you could have dyno'd on it.
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That is not the actual mount is it? I think that is bushings for the crossmember.
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I'd stick with a T5 if I were you for the following reasons:
Turbos like LOAD. People have switched from a 3:54 to a 3:70 or a 3:90 and actually LOST acceleration because the turbo doesn't get enough load in the lower gears!
The first gear would be practically unusable (too quick) - and this is WITHOUT going to the higher numerical rear gear you were contemplating.
Brad
You don't mind if I take issue with you do you?
I have run consistently quicler ET's with 3.90's and a T5 then I ran with 3.56's. You must also consider your tires in making a statement like that. When I went to 235/60R15 drag TA's, they were pretty tall with 3.56's gears and the car did not leave as hard as it did with the 3.90's.
I might also point out that I ran over a tenth quicker with 3.90's on a failing turbo compared to running on a turbo that was not failing with 3.56's. Not to mention I ran the time with 3.90's on a much warmer day.
You can also see I have changed turbo's, and while the turbine is larger, the compressor wheel is roughly the same size, I went from H3 to To4E 60 trim, and ran faster on less boost.
So I have a stage V turbine, and I have no spooling problems what so ever.
Yes first gear is short, but I have no problem hitting full boost in first, or second. With a Stage 3 boost response is very very responsive. And the car moves out, and 3rd gear is the real power puller, and it gets into it quickly.
Where you will notice the biggest difference that I consider a negative, is interstate. I have found to really keep up with traffic, I buzz along about 3300 rpms or so, the 3.56 is nicer there.
I still get 20 mpg with no O2 sensor, and all my performance stuff.
I don't think to say 3.90's or 3.70's is a hindrance as a blanket statement is fair. There is more to it then that.
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Right' date=' but HP doesn't break trannys... Torque does.
Mike 8)[/quote']
I thought it was sucky shifting that broke them.
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What happened to the 200R4?
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So whats the latest?
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I was going to say, I thought the VQ engine was more the 3.0 liters.
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My 260Z with a 2.8 flat top engine, su's header and cam ran like mid 15's at about 88mph, but it was not running right when I did that, I figured it would have dropped into the 14's easliy once I got the Dizzy straightened out, and the SU's rebuilt.
But.... I made the bad mistake of marrying a SKANK a little over 7 years ago, and well lets just say that play toy went bye bye to pay for an attorney.
Moral of the story, don't marry a skank.
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G force T5 man.
Hey Yo2001 sheared a bunch of teeth off his 4th gear, with way less power. HEHE
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That is a sweet muffler, and easy to stick up in there too. They sound very deep and subdued at idle, and sound very sweet when the boost hits. I loved the one I had on my 240Z that was turbo.
Best Gear ratio (rear-end ratio) for a turbocharged car ?
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