Lockjaw
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Posts posted by Lockjaw
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Fix the problem, don't band aid it. Turning up the boost in theory is a good idea, but ultimately, unless the boost drops with RPMS, he is going to run lean and pop the engine.
NOS with no controller is just plain nuts. If you have an issue, you can blow chunks out of intercoolers, plenums, and perhaps trash your turbo.
Fix the problem, then do power adders.
I would convert to Z31 EFI, do a JWT, or standalone.
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I doubt you will break mid 14's with a 2.4, a 2.8 can get down there. I would say a better guess would be mid 15's.
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Get the rings 1mm over and file fit. The second ring is gapless, hence the name, total seal.
You can also run sealed power rings for the turbo, they are chrome, but a chrome ring does not seal well if your cylinders are out of round at all, so unless you had a toque plate, I would go with something else. I used a sealed power economy ring on my 280ZX motor I built last year, and they sealed right up.
The Hastings XC ring or whatever is supposed to be a good one too.
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Who sells the sds, and how much does it cost? Just curious.
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Forged pistons, well you can get them set up already from Top End Performance. They should stock them. I used Ross Racing, but I run a 240 rod.
The stock rods will easily do 600 hp if you prep them right. No need to upgrade unless you just want to. Add ARP rod bolts, and you really have a bullet proof engine.
As for a BOV, unless you have a stand alone EFI, venting to the atmosphere is going to cause drivability issues, you will have to plump it back into the intake tract, after the AFM but before the turbo.
Several guys did a group buy from Ross, post in the turbo section for an answer.
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How hard to switch to the JWT ECU? How much of a difference does it make over the stock ECU? What else get's changed besides the ECU itself?
I appreciate the input Lockjaw though I'm not quite sure how your info about the batch firing applies to running NOS
Not saying that in a disargreeable/argumentative way' date=' I just totally did not understand it. So all the extra fuel between 2500-4000rpm wouldn't be enough for a small 25hp shot of nitrous I take it?[/quote']batch fire means all the injectors are firing at the same time, in this case all 6. Some of the newer boxes are sequential, and fire in batch fire mode, 3 at a time. Most of the aftermarket efi's are fully sequential on each injector, which is the best way to go.
If you are having richness issues there is another option. On the AFM, on the plastic cover side, there is a little round plug. Drill a small hole in it, and pull it out. You now should have access to a screw, which is an air bypass inside the AFM. You can also see it by looking down inside the afm. Make sure you know where it is, and then back the screw out some, which will let UNMETERED air thru the system, and should make adjusting your fuel curve a little bit, easier.
By the way, my JWT box is quasi sequential, it fires in 3 cylinder batch fire mode up to 49% of capacity, and then switches over to full all 6 batch fire above that. Probably why I get 20 mpg driving how I drive.
Oh I probably did not explain it to well, a batch fire efi fires all the injectors at the same time, so in your case, you get all 6 firing, even though spark is on one cylinder. Thats because the box only has one timer, it would have to have 6 to be sequential, which would fire the injector on the firing cylinder only.
Anyway, thats my story, and I am sticking to it.
8)
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Fuel pressure at idle with the vaccuum disconnected should be 36 psi. It will probably drop to about 30 when you hook up a vaccuum source.
Usually when your fuel pressure regulator goes bad, you will have way to much pressure at idle, and if you are lucky, your car will run, most of the time it won't. I had one go bad in the entire time I have been fooling with Z cars, so don't suspect it automatically.
Also, you could have a few psi variance depending on the quality of your gauge.
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I don't know, I am not motivated.
Hey what are you doing here, this isn't hybrid DSM?
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(De Schmadee had some trouble), .
Hey I don't want to flame him, but he did not do the installation as he should have. You really need to have some good technical expertise and familiarity with wiring, soldering, and all that to make it work, if not you need to pay someone to do it.
If you choose to install one, just PM and I can help you with the issue's. Its not that hard, you just have to be patient, and if something doesn't work properly, take some simple readings with a volt meter before calling them.
I was one of the first people in the US running the set-up, actually I was the first 5 speed car, the development car was an Auto. So I have spent alot of time on the phone with them working on it. Its really a nice system, but if you install it, and have problems and cannot communicate with them on their level, well you are going to have a tough time. They don't have time to educate you.
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Don't use the stock one, you need to get rid of the AFM.
In a nutshell, the JWT set-up I am running, (Jeff's is more advanced) is an 89 300 ZX ecu (NA model). You have to swap the number 1 and 5 injector wiring at the ecu, I believe, add dropping resistors inline on the injector wires, and get at the fuel pump relay under the dash and cut and ground one wire. This is the hardest part.
You buy a brand new cobra MAF and plug from ford, its very easy to wire in, you install the chopper wheel from any V6 Nissan 3.0 liter in the ZXT dizzy, plug in and go. Oh you have to unplug the detonation sensor.
You can get way more advanced, for instance, the set-up uses a 420cc injector, you can run the standard 3 bar fuel map, or a 4 like I do. They can also add programs to it, like one for race gas, dry NOS control ( am going to get that one), and adjust your reve limit, mine is at 7k right now.
The maf should be at least 16 inches away from the inlet to the turbo.
Personally I like the JWT stuff. It is not as good as a stand alone, but drivability is way better then stock. I will also say until I see someone run some really good numbers from a Mega squirt to avoid that one.
You can see what I run. The old time was on a 3 bar fuel map, the new turbo time is a 4 bar map, and I did not get to play with it much before the headgasket gave up the ghost.
I think I have way more left in the car, I have fuel to 26 psi with the turbo I have, so who knows. I probably don't have enough clutch to get up there, but the car flat gets down on the interstate when the boost is up.
Once it is back together I will run dyno it, but it made 307 corrected hp to the wheels here, it was about 299 uncorrected on the old turbo, and the exhaust, while 3 inch, left alot to be desired, I corrected all the issues from it this time around. I expect to get mid 300's or better.
Look don't take this the wrong way. Going fast costs money, and there are plenty of ways to do it. Sounds to me like you want something better then just stock, and if you do, pony up the money and do it right the first time, it costs way more to do it and then redo it.
Get the full on JWT set-up, or a standalone and be done with it. Either way, you got to spend some money, get larger injectors etc. Installation of the JWT set-up is very straightforward, I was up and running in a couple hours.
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Well no one seems to remember that most of the stroker folks were having damper issues too, which requires a BHJ or something equivalent. I like that damper, cannot wait to get it installed.
If you want a stroker, and are going with forged pistons, why not bore the block out to 89 mm, that should get you close to a 3.0 liter.
I have stock stroke, 240 rods, and custom ross pistons in mine. I have a 87mm bore, why I chose that is beyond me I should have gone out 2mm more. Anyway, my pistons are flat tops, and I can run about 18 to 19 psi on pump gas.
One other option, you could have the crank welded and offset ground, and pick up some stroke there. Not sure of the cost, I think that is what James did. Be sure to BALANCE everything.
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I would suspect the AR on the turbine housing to be pretty good sized, considering the size of the engine it came off.
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Are you talking dry nos? If so, I think your idea is crazy.
I can give you some insight on the richness. The ecu swtiches over, depending on airflow, to batch fire at like 90% duty cycle, from 40 to 45% at about that RPM. Usually you can feel the difference if have a stock turbo, and are running 10+psi of boost, about 3500 to 3800 rpms, the switchover occurs.
I had it very pronounced on my JWT box, since I was one of the first people to run the Cobra MAF set-up and they have tuned it out for me. I am going to be going to a dry NOS controller, JWT is going to put the computer control device in my ecu for me, and it will give me and extra 65hp.
If you ask me, you are asking for trouble. Spend the money and convert to a JWT or Z31 setup.
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Well I can tell you a little bit about this subject. I have an HKS twin power which is essentially the same thing as an MSD. On my car, with an MSD oil filled coil, and the twin power working, I get misfires above 18 psi, I might get an extra psi or two out of the TP ignition.
However, if I run a 300ZX coil, I can run upwards of 23 PSI without the tp, with no missfires. And I am running a bosch twin electrode plug, with Jacobs wires.
So I know there is a difference between the coils, and an MSD coil sucks. I would encourage you to run the 300ZX coil and see if you notice a difference. My personal opinion is you won't see more the 5 hp out of the MSD, unless you are having misfire issues, and it corrects them.
Save your money on the Dyno and MSD, spend it on stuff like a good mandrel 3 inch exhaust with a straight thru muffler if you don't have one, that is the absolute best bang for the buck mod you can do to a turbo Z car. Seriously. I ran mid 13's on my car until I swapped to the 3 inch mandrel. You can see how much it has come down since.
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s'okay I'm right there with ya... yeah the 40 extra horses and 65ft lbs of torque are nice... too bad they only cost me like FIVE GRAND!
Yeah well hows it go? Speed costs money, how much you wanna spend?
I always liked the other benefits of the turbo engine. It sounds tame, so people don't expect your car to be fast, you don't break rings revving the snot out of it, you don't have to adjust the valves as frequently, and of course once you are set up, more horsepower is only some good gas and an extra 5 psi away.
Not to mention getting sideways in second gear when the boost hits, now thats what I call fun.
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found my old dyno sheet, actually my rwhp at the time, which was a 10.3:1 compression motor, flat top pistons with an N42 head, stock cam, stock EFI with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel for the higher compression, 3-2-1 headers into free flow cat and muffler, 60mm throttle body, made 141rwhp at 5200rpm, and 160 ft lbs at 4400rpm.
Mine made that much HP before the boost hit. HAHA
Sorry I could not help it.
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I think a good starting point is double that.
Does the 260 cam have oil holes in it? I am thinking not but cannot really remember, so you may need to come up with the cam towers off an early model head, and the spray bar, or you won't have 16 degrees more duration for long.
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Motorsport auto has 2 cams for a turbo engine, crower can grind you one, Isky can, comp cams can. Comp cams has one really similar to mine.
Here are a couple of guidelines and one of the reasons I chose mine. Stock springs coil bind at about 460 lift, so anything over that requires springs. Second the larger your turbo, the longer it takes to spool, and I big radical cam will not help you with drivability.
Not to mention, I always wanted to have a cam in mine that sounds just a little bit healthier then stock. If I raise the idle up to about 850 rpms, unless you are very familiar with L6's you will never suspect the cam is anything but stock.
I guess if you saw my car, you would understand, you don't even know it is a turbo model from the outside, and almost everyone who talks to me at the track is very surprised to see it run what it runs. Only the exhaust tip would give you a clue, unless you noticed the 3 inch mandrel exhaust under there. You would have to look.
I guess for me, I want the subtleness of it being stealthy. Alot of times I pull up to the line without even heating the tires and just sit there. No one knows whats up, if I heat the tires, they know instantly.
Comp cams will grind you their 260H cam, open the lobe centerline angle to 112 degrees for 180 I believe they told me. That is essentially the cam I have. You will know its there. It will do everything you probably need.
If not, I can give you the grind number off mine, and crower can grind you a new billet. Then all you need is new rocker arms, you won't have to change the lash pads.
Good luck in your selection.
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I got 3.90's and I like them, picked up a couple tenths with them too.
Would be interested to see how the Haltech works out, how it is to tune etc.
But if you do alot on the interestate, the 3.56 is a better choice, I turn some rpms on the interstate.
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Intercooler piping has no effect. My engine compartment is so tight on the intake side. I have 2 2.5 inch intercooler lines, plus the 3 inch line for the maf, all mandrel bent.
You have some other issue. Loose or bad connection, bad CAS, leaking injectors, clogged fuel filter.
If you suspect the intercooler lines, bypass them, put the J pipe back in and see what happens.
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Is it intelligent enough to not drip where your drive wheels are going?
Yes please limit yourself to running in the lane I am not running is as drag radials/slicks don't get their best traction when water is on them.
Heck when its cool and humid, I cannot hook my drag radials, even with VHT on the track.
But that did make for one interesting run. Spun so hard in first, I short shifted it into second, waited for boost (took forever), missed third, lost an intercooler line in 4th, and still ran a 14.2 @ 92.
So please don't use a water sprayer in front of me. I like fast times.
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Sleeper... I keep asking you this one... what about the type of RRFPR that is designed to not affect fuel pressure until a user-defined boost level is reached? Cartech sells one kind of RRFPR like this. You could set the fuel rate to increase' date=' say, 2psi for every 1psi of boost, but set it not to start affecting fuel pressure until after you hit 7psi of boost, therefore you wouldn't be affecting the stock fuel pressure up to stock boost levels.
Cartech sells this model as the FMU used on N/A cars that have been converted to turbo, but to me it seems this would work PERFECTLY for turbo'ed 240's.[/quote']
That is a fallacy, the bottom line is it adds pressure as soon as boost is introduced. Now they do some tinkering by adding restrictors and one way valves, but I can promise you, get a good spooling turbo, run about 15 psi and hit it in 5th at 3k rpms and see what happens. You will get nasty black smoke, and a stuttering car, if your pump is up to task.
The bottom line is that regulator is a patch, and you are never going to have nice drivability with it. I hated mine. I would get an additional injector controller before one of those.
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You can use some tranny fluid lines I believe, thats typically what I use, something for higher pressures.
Well sorry about the late info, I don't check the board that often. I have just found from personal experience that replacing parts without testing is an expensive way to find the source of your problem. You may think one thing and go another direction to find the probelm.
I can tell you when my CAS was going bad in my Dizz, I was convinced it was the coil, the ignitor, whatever. Anything but that piece. Mentioned it to a friend, he says, check the CAS we are seeing that alot with 300ZX's. Funny thing is, I had a spare. Replaced it, and all was good.
So don't feel bad, I don't always heed my own advice either.
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I got 420cc running 56 psi static fuel pressure, with no problems.
Not saying that in a disargreeable/argumentative way' date=' I just totally did not understand it. So all the extra fuel between 2500-4000rpm wouldn't be enough for a small 25hp shot of nitrous I take it?[/quote']
... yeah the 40 extra horses and 65ft lbs of torque are nice... too bad they only cost me like FIVE GRAND!
'82 ZXT ECCS A/F curve + Nitrous at low rpm = perfect match?
in Turbo / Supercharger
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