Lockjaw
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Posts posted by Lockjaw
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I would find a p90' date=' I would not use the hydraulic, don't care what anyone says, the solid head will make more power, and you can run a performance cam in it.[/quote']
Now we are going to debate which head makes more power again? In no way are you going to notice which head yeilds more power. Unless you are spinning the engine up to 9,000 rpms, the hydraulic lifters will work just great. Look at all the modern 4 cylinder turbo engines making high horsepower for what they are, ie Mitsubishi turbos engines. They use hydraulic lifters, no problems there. End result, not much, or any of a difference, and never have to adjust a lifter again.
No I don't need to debate it with anyone. I took a P90a off my car, put a P90 on it, and it made more power. A good bit more at that, and on a non intercooled application. Thats all I need to know.
And the P79, well you can say what you want to say about its ports, but my friend ran 8.40's in the 1/8th mile over 10 years ago will a milled P79 on a stock f54 bottom end in his 240Z, so it must flow pretty well. Actually if memory serves the liners were to help with emissions, and did not have much, if any impact on flow.
There are few turbo 6's running 8.40's today on this board, so I don't want to hear about some debate. If you want to test them, you do it, but in my opinion, from my personal experience, go solid, and make more power, and save yourself some headaches.
So anyway, you can take advice from someone who has actually swapped the heads on the same car, changing nothing, and picked up power, or you can take the advice of someone who says, theoretically, there should be no difference. There is, and any butt dyno can feel it.
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I doubt it will need boring, thats like saying the L series crank needs to be turned.
I like it when I took my crank to the machine shop and told them to polish it, and they said, we'll check it and cut it if it needs it, and I said, "it won't need it". It didn't. never seen one that did.
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Why not just run the 2mm thick HKS headgasket?
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isnt the p79 a round port head?
if so P90a
P90a may have the HLAs' date=' but it still has the preferred swirl combustion chamber. A p90a head in good shape is worth running worth the turbo ap, even if you run one in the meanwhile before you find a solid p90.[/quote']
Uh, P79 has the same combustion chamber, just liners in the exhaust ports.
I would find a p90, I would not use the hydraulic, don't care what anyone says, the solid head will make more power, and you can run a performance cam in it.
The P79 would probably be alright, although for more power, you need portwork anyway.
Sell both heads and buy a p90, you can still find them.
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Sealed power? You can get them from any advance. You could also try Birmingham Piston Warehouse in Bham Al, they have lots of stuff in stock, and when I got ARP head studs from them, they were cheaper then anyplace I could find them on the internet.
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If it is a stock turbo, that is about its limits, and I would be worried about the shaft speed at that point more then anthing else. Make sure it stays there, once you get above that, you are asking for a rebuild.
Now if it has good bolted down thrust bearings, you should be able to get away with a little more, although then you really have to wonder about the efficiency.
So the really short answer is 15 is about the max I would go.
Good luck with it.
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Detonation puts holes in it, like it has been sandblasted, and in worse cases, breaks things.
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He is going stock bore, so any block should be fine. besides, show me someone who tore up a block without something else letting go.
Actually, the back two cylinders on the F54 block are supposedly hotter, and that is not an issue with the ealier block. I would not be scared to use either one.
You also need more then a 30 minute break in on the engine, especially if you used chrome rings. You should put at least 500 easy ie low or no boost miles on it before throwing down on it.
Thats my thoughts on the matter.
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You could send your turbo out to be upgraded. Forced Performance in texas is probably one of the best shops, if you don't mind spending the money. At least it won't tear up.
You really want a 360 degree thrust bearing, and water cooling, while a pain, is really worth the effort, helps to all but eliminate coking of the bearing. Using your nissan housing will also make bolt up easier, you can use the stock downpipe and upgrade in stages.
Buying a full garrett means you have to redo your exhaust.
Another option is to have a larger compressor wheel put on your stock turbo, and have the turbine wheel clipped.
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Waste gate.
Its way more pronounced since you added the intercooler right?
Definitely the wastegate, and nothing to worry about.
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Over 15 psi with stock headgasket and bolts, plenty of time over 20, and lots of passes over 22psi with no issues, until now.
So 6 years. Pure abuse, plain and simple, not going to lie about it.
This time, HKS 2mm, and ARP studs, that baby is not going to ever blow.
Of course my block is decked, and the head has been trued.
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I was thinking aluminum melts at 1200 degree's, but I could be mistaken. I am sure someone can google it and tell us.
Either way, get it to hot, and it doesn't matter what it is, its melting.
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That is not a regulator, that is like a little surge device, when fuel pumps pump, they surge, and supposedly you can feel that when driving, which is what this device is supposed to dampen.
The fuel pressure regulator is on the fuel rail, and it is not ajustable, unless you compress it, but I would not recommend that, you are asking to have a trashed regulator.
JWT has a bosch one for about 100 bucks that is adjustable, but if you have a stock pump, you need to upgrade that too.
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Just run a couple gallons of 110 leaded in there. I can run 19 to 20 psi with regular unleaded here, but with 110 leaded mixed in there, who knows.
I think we have 112 or 114 out here at the track, I am going to have to try some of that very soon.
Oh and you get your egts out of whack and it doesn't matter what kind piston you have, aluminum still melts at the same temp, be it cast or forged.
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I can get anything for the L series locally in bham from Bham piston warehouse. They had the head stud kit in stock. And it was as cheap as online, or better. ARP stuff that is. Rings, bearings and such too.
You can order the heavy duty main cap bolts from Courtesy, and I would go that route over main studs, I have never seen anyone pitch a nissan crank out, and the main caps are hard enough to get out with bolts, studs would make it much worse, it seems to me.
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Overtorquing is a common problem with those gaskets. Some, felpro I believe makes a fiber one, others are cork.
The best thing I have found to do with a cork one is to coat both sides with some type of rtv, I like ultra copper personally, and let it sit for about 20 minutes and skin up, and then install. I use low tension locktight on all the pan bolts, and use an electric drill set on a pretty low setting to install the bolts, since that is much faster.
No matter what kind of gasket I use, there is always rtv on it. Use the gray or copper. Good luck.
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Do you have a factory manual, see what it says. I like mine tighter, but the engine takes longer to break in that way.
I have between 150 to 160 psi cranking pressure cold, but I don't have stock pistons.
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Why not get ARP rod bolts, they are strong and cheap?
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Go with factory spec, no sense putting the engine together and having excessive blowby or lower compression then you should.
YOu could always ask for 1mm oversize and file to fit.
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The isky is to big.
Web has a good one that is about 256 duration.
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That cam will not work with a turbo, I have actually tried it, and it sucked. Sounded good at idle, but man was it a pig, stock cam is much better for a turbo.
Look if you want a cam, and are going turbo, get a small one. Like the comp cams 260H or something. I have a little crower in my ZXT, and it is .428 lift, and 218 duration at .050, with no overlap. No overlap is what you are looking for. 110 degree LCA. You may want to open that up to 112 degrees.
But your cam is an NA cam, designed for higher compression, and mods like that. You need to be turning your engine to about 7k to get the goods out of that cam.
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I got a turbo intake, and I figure if nissan went to all the trouble to make it different then the na one, it must be worth having.
FWIW, I picked up power and a few PSI going from a tapered NA manifold to the turbo one. I think the tapered one comes on the ZX's.
But I did have the EGR cut off, a plate welded over the hole, and I have plates over the other things that stick off the top, and a nice fancy nissan plug where the vent was. POS.
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No. You bring the balancer up to TDC, after breaking loose the nut on the front of the cam. Then you stake the timing chain in place, and remove the sprocket, and rotate it until the hole you want lines up with the dowel on the cam. Then put the nut back in, tighten to spec, and remove the timing chain stake.
It helps to make sure your balancer is on at TDC to, which you can also verify by removing the spark plug and looking in the hole and making sure the piston is at TDC. Also the front two cam lobes should be in the up but spread apart position. Kind a like a peace sign.
good luck. I always liked the number 2 position.
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That is not a turbo cam and has way to much overlap.
p90a vs. p79
in Turbo / Supercharger
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