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junglist

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Posts posted by junglist

  1. You have a source for NEW NISSAN S30 R200 Moustache Bars? Praytel elaborate, as they are NLA in America...so I'd really like to know where this 'same setup' is going to be available for 1/4 the cost when the originals are not available... Also note that the Yen Price of 30,000 yen is a whole $111 in the golden days. It's not Kameari's Fault that the dollar has been floating (or sinking)... Welcome to the side effects of an empire on decline.

     

     

    7500 yen=$28... again, the strong yen sucks if you aren't the dominant economic force on the face of the planet, eh?

     

     

     

    Only thing I can say to that is 'Billet Arizona Z Car' components look great on a show car, but there is no way in hell I would be putting them on a car driven on the street or in competition. Billet Snaps on impact... And again, any of the pricing sucks ONLY if you are an American paying in AMERICAN DOLLARS. The rest of the world it seems is getting Japanese speed parts at a cheaper and cheaper rate. To a Japanese earning Yen, these prices have REMAINED UNCHANGED FOR ALMOST 30 YEARS! Tell me (in AMERICAN DOLLARS) which speed parts can lay claim to that? I remember NEW Dobi Spoilers for under $50. Fiberglass Doors (epoxy resins used, not polyester) for $225. The prices in America for AMERICAN MADE preformance parts have skyrocketed with inflation---while the Japanese System internally to Japan has held prices relatively constant in terms of total yen price asked...

     

     

    Gene Berg once said: "If you can't afford to do it right now, how will you find the money to do it over a second time when it all comes apart?" Same situation here...

     

     

    And as an addendum to my commentary: there is a REASON these parts are made in JAPAN. The support for them at the relatively constant price (even though it be high initially) tends to be a REAL BARGIAN in the long-term for the long-range thinking Japanese. The buy cheap mentality prevalent in America makes such niche markets nearly impossible to cultivate in any real way. Most producers of parts for the Datsun in America have gone away, simply because of their reliance on VOLUME and CHEAP PRICE. When the volume goes away, so the product follows. It's the wrong marketing model, but hey...it's the American Way. :angry: One little 6 month currency correction in 1988 doubled the prices of Japanese Speed Parts. You guys just never realized how good it was...

     

     

    Well, I'm looking at it from my perspective which is attempting to rebuild and retro-mod an entire car all at one time and due to that sometimes the pricing of certain parts makes them out of reach due to trying to build an entire car. You of course cannot buy brand new mustache bars, but you can get a used one, blast it and powdercoat it for significantly less than a new one from Kameari and functionally its the same thing.

     

    I personally cannot control fluctuating currency and I have to look at things as a person currently living in the USA with no other way of buying parts than ordering them from the USA with USA dollars. I know its not Kameari's fault that prices are high because of exchange rates. However, it is not the end user's fault in the USA that due to those exchange rates some of their parts prices are somewhat unreasonable for what the part is.

     

    I personally don't try to do things half-assed at first only to have to re-buy the same parts later. Sometimes it happens and sometimes I have to make do with what I can afford for a certain thing. Am I running a used $80 280ZXT turbo manifold rather than a $1300 Greddy manifold, you bet I am...however I did buy a brand new Garrett turbo and brand new Greddy BOV and brand new Tial wastegate. I've bought all of my suspension components from aftermarket companies in North America such as Modern Motorsport and Techno Toy Tuning because they are high quality, proven and reasonably priced.

     

    Would I love to be able to go to Japan and buy up all of the amazing aftermarket Japanese parts that I need? Hell yes. I would do that in an instant if I could afford that.

  2. Its hard to justify the cost for certain Kameari items such as a R200 mustache bar which is basically a stock piece with the poly bushings for $400+ when you could get the same setup for less than $100. A thermostat for $100+ makes no sense. Some of the suspension pieces like the steering knuckles for $500 you can get from Arizona Z Car for $200 for the same quality. The control arms are $850 and you can get billet ones from Arizona for $600 or similar ones from Techno Toy for $350 just like the "pillow tension rods" which are $775 but Techno Toy sells awesome ones for $225.

     

    However, Kameari makes some great motor parts which no one else makes and they are definitely worth the money when you can afford them.

     

    Edit: In the end, its GREAT that there are still companies making such a breadth of performance parts for such an old car. It'd be terrible if they stopped.

  3. what is the bolt pattern different?

     

    the spacing only goes so far out?

     

    im running those BAMF flares and wondering if these can fill them out... I know Gixxer is running em also but its hard to tell without a down the side pics.

     

    Go to my post here to see a side by side comparison of the 17" RBR's next to 16" RB's: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57565-rota-rbrb-r-4x1143-17-z-offset-wheels/page__view__findpost__p__853897

     

    Maybe soon I can take shots of them actually on a car for comparison purposes.

  4. I taped plastic to the frame and then to the floor to keep it all under control, then put a fan at the back of the car blowing towards the front, with a vacuum cleaner on the other end sucking all the dust in. Worked pretty dam good I must say. Also I bought a blasting hood from eastwood, 35 bucks, and wore swimming goggles and hearing protection to keep the media out of my eyes and ears.

     

    Id have to say it wasn't fun, but spending time on setting the area up well really payed off, I couldn't imagine doing it any other way. Well outside on a rotisserie would have been the smart thing to do, but don't have access to that stuff.

     

    Anyhow thanks for the kind words about the results, next its on to the fender wells....

     

    It looks great. How high off the ground did you have the car? Did you lay underneath it to blast it? How long did the actual blasting process take you?

  5. I need a passenger side steering knuckle from a 240Z. I don't know for sure if the 260's or 280's had the same or different steering knuckles although they probably did. I'm only looking for the passenger side.

     

    Mine is bent from a previous owners fender bender and I only found that out after taking it to the machine shop to have it drilled out for my custom tie-rods. I'll pay via paypal and cover shipping to my house in 20152.

     

    Let me know if you have one for me, thanks.

  6. Looks cool, I plan on running something nearly identical with the divorced port 2.5" to 3" exducer, 3" exhaust. I bought the flange, just haven't gotten to plumbing the car yet. I have a brand new Garrett T3/T04E 0.63 A/R turbo. I also have a knockoff Tial wastegate, mine has a Tial spring and I smoothed out all the casting and rough edges inside of it. I didn't have a ton of money at the time when I bought it, I figure I'll buy a Tial in the future.

  7. As for a used JTR radiator, you might luck out and find someone on here that is selling one secondhand that has never been used. That's how I found mine.

     

    Got mine the same way. I haven't run the car with it, but I was pretty psyched to find it. With a 16" fan, shroud and CSR electric water pump I'm confident the car will have proper cooling capacity for track days.

  8. Part #'s I have for the Clevite/Perfect Circle rings written down in my notebook are as follows

     

    280ZX pistons - flat top: 41577 old part#:12033-P7900

     

    280ZX pistons - dish top: 41435 old part#:12033-P9010

     

    I bought some myself and they are pretty nice rings.

     

    In case you want it, Clevite rod bearings is CB966P and Clevite main bearings is MS-1106P. I bought those also.

  9. Or find a different Volvo...

     

    I have 2 Volvo FMICs, they both have inlets at the top. Here is the one installed on my car. I was told it was from a 740.

     

     

    In my dailer driver Volvo 850 T-5R the intercooler inlet/outlet are at the top and bottom of the intercooler and come out straight like so: 9161091A.jpg

     

    ...they are also plastic end tanks, one positive is that the intercooler is really light.

  10. If you are spending that much for a full rebuilt stroker motor, I'd go ahead and replace everything I possibly could on the engine and around it. New plugs & plug wires, new distributor cap & rotor, new engine & transmission mounts or reinforce them with urethane, new fuel lines, new fuel filter, refurbish/clean/benchmark the injectors (if its not carbed), clean the A/F meter with MAF cleaner, clean the inside of the throttle body or upgrade to a larger one, new thermostat, new heating lines, new radiator hoses, new upgraded alternator (or have the current one checked/cleaned), new/rebuilt starter. But thats just me and what I did and I didn't have too tight a budget at the time, and I hadn't been in a hurry to finish my project so I accrued the parts over a couple months.

     

    I'd also flush the steering rack and put in new fluid, new grease everywhere, new boots if it needs them.

     

    I'd forget about the stock clutch fan and get an electric fan kit and possibly build a shroud for it or adapt a stock 280zx plastic shroud for that stock look. Your radiator should be fine...fix any bent fins, flush it and clean it inside and out to make sure there are no leaks and if it goes bad later its not hard to replace on a Z with the engine in. If you want to refresh the look Eastwood sells thin radiator specific paint that doesn't retain heat.

     

    The flywheel bolts should be fine, I haven't heard of those being a weak point and I know Tony D said he used regular L28 flywheel bolts on one of his builds. I'm not sure about the clutch, it really depends on how much power the engine is making after the rebuild...a "Stage 1" may not even be strong enough if its making enough power/torque...better to ask your builder that if he is familiar with L-series engines and has built strokers before.

  11. I went to a Dulles Chik-fil-A meet a long time ago, like 4-5 years ago in my 350Z. I haven't been in awhile so I don't know if the turnout is the same or not. Was it a lot of imports or was it mainly American car guys? There is another meetup spot in Manassas at the Burger King at the intersection of the Route 234 Bypass and Route 28...but it seems to be mostly hotrods and muscle cars and a few riceboys, I haven't seen many cool euro or well done japenese rides there.

     

    The "scene" (if you can call it that) used to be a lot stronger here around DC from '00-'04 but just isn't the same anymore. I used to have a fully worked out Integra GS-R and I went to a lot of local meets and events. Kinda stopped doing that once I had my 350Z other than going to dyno days and 350Z meets, I started more going to Summit Point and stuff for track days, Hyperfest, etc. There are a few local shops that might still have good meets every once in awhile, like P-Tuning in Manassas, Altered Atmosphere in Gaithersburg, MD, Function Tuned (350Z/G35 shop) in Sterling. I'm sure most of those places would love and appreciate seeing a turbo S30Z.

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