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junglist

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Posts posted by junglist

    Used to boost a lot, now just boosts a little

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Have you checked the j-pipe connector boot or the intake arm to see if they have any rips or tears? Do either of them compress under engine load? You should also check the pop-off/bypass valve on top of the intake manifold to make sure its not stuck open and can open/close on its own. Also, make sure your PCV valve & lines aren't clogged.

    L28ET piston choices *newbie*

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    You might as well do a quick refresh of the engine though to make sure its in good shape and give it a better chance of running for awhile and making some better power.

     

    -New main/rod bearings (i'm running clevite77)

    -new performance piston rings (i'm running perfect circle moly rings)

    -new timing chain/set (only like $100)

    -new water pump

    -new head, oil pan & timing cover gaskets (you can get Ishino which makes the OEM nissan for $20-$30 or felpro)

    -get the block cleaned and honed (not bored or you'll need new pistons)

    -have the pistons/rods checked and balanced

    -get a fresh gasket surface on the head

    -have the head checked and check/replace the valve stem seals.

     

    It also might be in your interest to get some ARP hardware like rod bolts, head studs and main bearing studs. I skipped the ARP main bearing studs for my build and went with LD28 Maxima Diesel OEM bolts as they take 20 ft/lbs more torque than the stock bolts. I also got a new set of pistons as mine had some foreign object damage and I bought them at partsdinosaur.com for $200.

     

    You should check out this thread for more info and more links to different parts places for rebuild/performance L28 parts: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88757-l28et-rebuild-parts/

     

    H-beam rods and forged pistons are expensive and to take advantage of them you'd probably need extensive headwork machining, lots of ECU tuning and a big turbo to really make the power to truly justify them unless you are planning on going out for lots of track days and want a rock solid reliable engine. Then you'd also probably need a MLS steel head gasket, a baffled oil pan, better water pump, head mods to the #5/#6 cylinder for cooling, and all kinds of stuff that adds up quick.

    Northern Virginia MS and Z people?

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    I also live in Chantilly and have a '72 240Z project. I have a MSII box but the engine isn't in the car and its not running so I'm not yet real familiar with tuning the Megasquirt. I'm more than willing to meet up and help with the other Z stuff though!

    What to use to smooth out imperfections made by sanding - body filler or filler primer?

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    For just surface chips and small areas get some glazing putty. Here are a few different ones:

     

    http://www.eastwood.com/eurosoft-glazing-putty-1-25.html

    http://www.eastwood.com/metal-glaze-30oz-pump-bottle.html

    http://www.eastwood.com/usc-pro-glaze-finishing-putty-24oz-tube.html

    http://www.eastwood.com/usc-icing-24-oz-tube.html

     

     

    Personally I like the Evercoat products, I have the Evercoat Metal Glaze and the Eurosoft putty and they both sand easily. Your local body shop supply place should stock/sell this stuff and you can always ask the guy at the counter what he recommends.

    For those of you who installed my projector headlights

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Here, you can kind of see them under the covers.

     

     

    IMG_0124.jpg

     

    Your car looks incredible and is so very similar with the murdered out color scheme, blacked out bumper & door handles, the shaved markers & emblems other than small details to what my setup will be (same color, motor, MS setup, wheels, suspension) when I finally get it wrapped up sometime this summer hopefully. Differences being, I have APR carbon fiber mirrors mounted onto the actual doors, I have clear signal lenses, windshield trim will be blacked out, custom vented inspection lids, won't have a rear bumper, I also will probably be getting Ben's classic HID's instead of the black ones.

     

    Ben, I can't wait for your classic kits to come out.

    Added a lift...

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Thanks! Hopefully the Z will have a real "coming out" here in the next four weeks...

     

    Mike

     

    Awesome, are you going to post some updated photos on HybridZ after it comes out or are you going to throw another BBQ or something?

    86 and 87 Volvo 240DL wagons.

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    You may think Volvo's are old technology. Besides looking outdated, they have consistently pioneer many safety systems and other car technologies. The standards they have are often years ahead of other manufacturers. If you have ever really torn into a Volvo you'll realize they engineer their products to last and be easy to work on. For example I believe the grill in the 240 can be removed by turning two nobs/screws and you can pop it right out. This theme can be found all over the car's panels and other things you commonly need to replace are meant to come off. 240's come with Dana 30 rear ends and have 4 cylinders,

     

    My 1996 850 T-5 Wagon has Side impact air bags, leather heated seats, power everything, winter mode for the transmission (starts off in 3rd), headlight wipers (honest they do work). Basically it's got most of the standard items cars are just now bragging about.

     

     

    The way some things are held onto the Volvo's is weird though, the front corner lamps on 850's are held on with no screws or bolts, just springs and the place they seat breaks easy. The grille is held on by 7 or 8 plastic clips, the battery just has a plastic wedge piece to hold it in. Very very different than what I'm used to with Nissan, Honda or Toyota Japanese cars, the few American cars I've had or even VW's of the same vintage.

     

    My '95 T-5R was the first car to have side impact air bags, has a decent trip computer for a car from 1995...it also has the nice power leather/suede heated seats which are still in great shape(the driver's seatback cable just broke on mine so I've gotta replace that cable which was only $45), the winter mode works well in deep snow, although my headlight wipers haven't worked for as long as I've owned the car. Most things I've had to fix that truly broke and weren't worn out due to normal age wear/tear are small nit-picky things like the trunk support struts, some plastic interior trim pieces, the front underbody airpan/splashpan, the front & rear hard brake lines because when I replaced the soft lines the damn copper fittings on the hard lines got completely stripped out even though I was careful as I possibly could be.

     

    I love my Volvo though, still wish I had a 350Z though.

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