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HybridZ

junglist

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Posts posted by junglist

  1. I've refinished a few of these wheels. I've used matte black paint for the centers and I used cherry wood stain that I then coated with clear coat/clear lacquer. They've turned out pretty good, these aren't too hard to refinish if yours doesn't have a lot of dents/scratches/cracks.

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  2. NICE!:2thumbs:

    The reason why i ask is if the RGM is back ordered then Royal Hyper Black is my next choice then Silver. I figure I could always paint the centers to the color i want.

    The Hyper black looks like it's an in between color between silver and the gunmetal, kinda like they didn't make the silver bright enough or made the gunmetal dark enough or RHB is just another name for "Grey".

     

    I took some pics for you last night. Here is some comparison pics between my RGM RB-Rs and my friends' hyper black RBs. The RBRs are 17"x9.5" with 275/40/17 Azenis and the RBs are 16"x8" with 225/50/16 Azenis...I could be off with the tire height. He rolls the RBs on his '72 240Z without flares and thin spacers. Check out that lip on the RBRs compared to the RBs. Negative offset FTW!

     

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  3. Are the centers on these powder coated or painted, Is it really a two month wait for RGM?

     

    Its hard to tell on my RB-Rs. They have a clearcoat covering the whole front face of the wheel including the "polished lip" portion. I included some pics showing different angles of the naked wheel so you can try to judge for yourself. Obviously I havent tryed to chip the paint to test its thickness or durability and while mine now have tires on them, they still haven't seen the street.

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  4. I'm bumping this because I think more guys need to check out this post/story/whatever on Speedhunters, its the best post I've seen on that site and they have some truly badass stuff.

     

    Its about a Japanese restoration shop in the countryside that specializes in old Nissan's and especially S30 Z's. Tamura-san, the original designer of the S30 Z shows up at the shop to meet the blog writer and even gives him a few of his original drawings!

     

    You can't miss that link if you like old Z's and there are tons of pictures.

     

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  5. Just to give you guys a heads up. Rockauto has the Beck Arnely boots on wholesaler clearance. Look them up under a 1984 300zx base model. Boots are around $5 for inner and $5 for outer. Just ordered some sets of these and they have the o-ring and grease with them.

     

    As of 5 March they only had 16 remaining....

     

    Great deal considering they are usually $27 + shipping for a set.

     

     

    I saw this a few months ago and bought 2 sets!

  6. Good luck to that seller for trying to sell at that price. His ad is horrible with misspellings and bad grammar. He also seems to be attempting to describe the car to the "common" buyer and not a collector and most collectors wouldn't be interested in a modified car in most cases anyway, I guess. Especially with custom "eagles pin striping" and the "modern" wheels he has which look straight off of a 1980's domestic dragstrip.

     

    It looks like he has some nice parts, but other than the "Gleason Torsen" diff, nothing too special. He doesn't even mention who built his motor, if its stroked and or punched out or the mileage on the engine. Also, the car couldn't have 108,000 miles on the odometer; it would say 08000. So, does it have 108k on the chassis?

     

    If people are barely getting $25,000-$30,000 for mint condition dead stock series 1 240Z's with under 50k on it, no chance this car sells for anywhere near $25k.

     

    I'm sick of seeing people posting their car for sale on ebay and craigslist with poor descriptions, bad spelling and grammar (is spellcheck that hard? Open Word and paste your text in there, spellcheck it then paste back into craigslist), poorly lit or blurry pictures (I know on craigslist that the pics are small, but provide a link to somewhere with big pics), and worst of all people that exaggerate their car to try to upsell it. Everyone knows a 240Z who's only suspension work is bolt-on stuff like Tokico HP's, some coilover sleeves, strut bars and a big sway bar is not going handle like any Porsche 911 or outhandle it unless it is completely clapped out. I feel like a hater for hating on this guy's car because it really doesn't look bad and it looks like he put some nice work into it, I'm just hating on his for sale ad.

  7. The "IP.Board" theme is so much nicer than the new default one with the red. It would be nice if it had the HybridZ logo instead of the IPBboard logo though. Or maybe just change the default theme to the blue?

  8. provided you have a fresh motor (low mileage) you could reuse rods and pistons.

     

    thats what im planning on doing, just getting the gaskets, bearings and cleaning it all up

     

    I re-used my rods, cleaned them up like crazy, new Clevite bearings and ARP rod bolts.

     

    When I had my new pistons pressed onto the used rods at the machine shop I had them balance the rods and pistons, deburr them, check the new bearings fitment and press in the ARP hardware.

     

    I didn't buy a rebuild "kit". I sourced everything for the best prices from many different places:

    -Crank & rod bearings from RockAuto

    -Perfect Circle (clevite) piston rings from ebay

    -new cast dished pistons from PartsDinosaur.com

    -ARP head studs & rod bolts from SummitRacing

    -Maxima diesel main bolts from Courtesyparts

    -all gaskets locally

    -new timing chain kit from ebay

    -oil pump gasket & springs from MSA

    -hardware for the oil pan & valve cover from McMaster Carr

    -hardware for the timing cover from http://www.zcarcreations.com/

    -CSR electric water pump used from someone on HybridZ.

     

    I think total for all of the above excluding the electric water pump I paid about $900-$950 or so, not including the machine shop work.

     

    For the machine shop I took them my P90A head and had them check it for any problems and mill both the bottom and the intake/exhaust side for gasket surfaces. The machine shop also pressed on my pistons to my rods and balanced them each. For that work it cost me $155.

     

    I didn't take the block or crank to the machine shop. I checked the crank myself (it was within FSM specs) and cleaned it. I cleaned and slightly deburred the inside of the block myself. The cylinders were in good shape with factory hone marks still visible so I checked the bores and they were within spec. Bought & used a Flex-Hone for $50 and honed the block myself. I cleaned the deck and sanded it for a gasket surface starting with 320grit and moving up to 2500grit to a near mirror shine that was dead flat.

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