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junglist

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Posts posted by junglist

  1. I like the looks of that, real clean. Did you just tap into the hole behind your exaust flange? I'm running a A/R turbo that has a hole behind my exhaust flange. I cant tell from the picture but it looks like thats what you did.

    How do you like this setup? 240 or 280?

     

    Thanks, Kevin

     

    Are you talking about a flange similar to this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custom-T3-T4-5-bolt-w-wastegate-hole-2-5-ID-flange_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ002QQitemZ120360579030

     

    I bought an identical flange to use for my downpipe when I finally get to that stage. The flange is of good quality and is a good solution if you don't want to weld on your exhaust manifold.

  2. Ok, there's a lot of residue around that right side of the chip. Check the circuit really really well. It could be a stress crack from overheating. That unit was not built by diyautotune. They know how to make good solder joints and the joints all the way around that chip and some of the adjacent components are horrible. I'd have never sent one out like that.

     

     

    You are right, not from diyautotune as I was told. The inside bottom of the case has the guy's website address on it. I went to his site and he said he purchased the components from "Glen's Garage" and assembled it himself. So there is where the solder joint issues and whatnot come from.

  3. The picture is a little fuzzy, but it really doesn't look burnt to me, it looks like it actually took and impact and cracked. That may have been exasperated by the crappy solder joints and God only knows what else. Who put this thing together?

     

    I think you are correct...it does look like it took an impact and cracked. I can't see any burn marks around it or anywhere else on the board.

     

    I just asked who I bought it from and he said it was bought from diyautotune.com and was running fine when they removed it. It sat on a shelf for 3 months before he sold it to me so whatever broke that piece must've done it then. Not a big deal if it's something easily replacable.

     

    I assume it would be worth my time/money to buy or build my own stimulator unit to test this once I replace the U4? I'm sure shipping roundtrip just to have someone look at it and test would be close to $30 and thats 2/3 the price of a stimulator kit.

  4. 2 things:

    1. the daughter card sitting on top of the board is the MS-II processor board.

    2. It has all of the transistors across the top of the board including the ignition driver.

     

    Ok, I see that now...duh on my part. It even says MSII on the daughter card but in such tiny lettering that I wasn't paying attention to it.

     

    I see that the U4 part is only $2.06 from digikey so that is good. Ryan, the guy I am doing my build with is pretty proficient with circuit boards and soldering and such.

     

    Thank you very much with the help.

  5. I bought this used MS-I V3.0 board from a member here for a very fair price. Upon opening the unit I noticed that one of the "chips" or what have you is broken/chipped on the circuit board. In the attached picture I've circled the broken piece in red. If it helps at all I can read "CKTF" "0445" on the piece in question.

     

    I wanted to ask the MS guys on here if they know what that particular chip/piece does and if its damage will be or is an issue? Is it something that I can remove and replace easily for a reasonable cost? Can I get that piece seperately if I need to? I'm going to join and post on msefi.com also to hopefully get input from there as well.

     

    I do not have a stimulator yet to test the box to see if it fully functions but I was told that when it was removed from the car it was in that all was fine and the guy was upgrading to SDS.

    msprob_thumb.jpg

    ms2_thumb.jpg

  6. Then search for XTD clutches I think it is. They make ceramic puck clutches which comes with clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, bushing, and alignment tool. The clutch was $110 or something like that shipped to my house. :]

     

     

    XTD clutches have a horrible, horrible and I can't stress this enough, horrible reputation. Do a little search for reviews and comparisons on google (not here on hybrid) and read a little bit about them. Basically they are crappiest of crappy materials and they just spray paint chinese OEM pressure plates red and then put a sticker over the stamp of whatever company actually makes them.

     

    They may be cheap but they are junk. You don't always get what you pay for, but in this case I think you may be actually getting less than what you are paying for.

  7. How much money does it cost for a game? I need to work that into the cost to purchase :)

     

    You don't need to buy a "game". The cabinet includes the game...if you look at the pictures in the auction the game board (PCB) is shown in the cabinet in the 5th picture (the green circuit board) and in the 6th picture he shows a picture of an extra game board.

     

    I have a Street Fighter 2 arcade cabinet at my house and I love it. The electronics inside are very simple to work on, replace, and even upgrade if you want to. I'd love this cabinet just to play driving games on and upgrade the inside to a home computer to run MAME so I could play any driving game with the cabinet.

  8. I'm also looking to get rid of my 4.11 rear end as the gears are way too short with the 6-speed. The stock 350Z rear end is a 3.5 so I think a 3.7CLSD might be best for my application.

     

    I know the "hot setup" for the 350Z guys was always the 3.9 gears for the N/A 6-spd cars. At one point when the 350Z first came out there was a Nissan 3.7 offering but I don't think thats available anymore. What diff are you running in there right now? I think the 3.7 would be a happy medium of short gearing without being too short.

     

    http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=350z&cat=driveline&prodid=1726

  9. Here are two pictures I took of RB240Z's car at the Nissan 370Z event here in Chantilly, VA. He has 16 x 8 Rota RBR's with a +4 offset. No rolled fenders or flares. Lowered on Nissan Competition springs I believe.

     

    I think with only 17x8.5 wheels that they won't be wide enough. You should look into getting the group buy Rota RB-R's that are 17x9 and 17x9.5 if you are set on doing ZG flares.

    370Z 039-1_thumb.jpg

    370Z 037-1_thumb.jpg

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