junglist
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Posts posted by junglist
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Why build a frame? Why not just tape/staple the plastic sheeting to the walls/ceiling? My roommate went through the trouble of building a PVC paint booth to spray his motorcycle and it cost him like $150 in PVC & plastic and it really didn't work very well, although that could've just been b/c he didn't do it right or something.
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I find it interesting that you went through the trouble of shaving the door handles and smoothing the cowl, integrating the front airdam to the fenders and put in custom taillights, yet you left the stock sidemarker/reflector holes and the stock antenna hole. I think it would look cleaner with no sidemarkers and a roof mounted or hidden antenna.
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Inspiring checking out your car, the work that has gone into it and how quickly you seem to move on the projects. Most your webpage won't work for me on any of my 3 computers though. I get: "# Exception: TypeError
# Message : 'browserVersion' is undefined" and if I go to the archive and click on the links, none of them work. They all come up with a 404 error as they all link to: http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/Z-Blog/$link$
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This website has lots of overpriced JDM parts like all the Kameari engine & suspension stuff: http://www.rhdjapan.com/products-category/NISSAN/S30-Fairlady-Z who wants a $5,600 3.1 stroker crankshaft?
Here is a OS Giken throwout bearing sleeve: http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/OS-Giken-Release-Sleeve-Bearing-8664
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I remember when I had my GSR that I sat in a couple integras with the JDM ITR recaro's and thought they seemed pretty wide. I also remember that the JDM Recaro SRD's were a slightly different size than the SRD's the rest of the world got.
These are a sort of Recaro SRD replica from F1spec.com seats:
If you go here: http://northstarmotorsports.com/products/sfID1/4/productID/2138 they have measurements for a Recaro Speed which is the updated version of the Recaro SRD (the same thing as a JDM ITR seat).
Found these measurements for a Recaro Speed:
Backrest Height: 820 mm
Shoulder Width: 530 mm
Seat cushion width: 534 mm
Seat cushion depth: 500 mm
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Hey, I'm looking for a stock or aftermarket 1" front sway bar or bigger for my '72 240Z. It'd be nice if you have bushings/mounts for it but I'll buy just the bar as long as its not super rusty (surface rust ok) or has anything wrong with it.
Send me a PM or post here if you have one you would like to sell and how much you are looking to get for it. For shipping I dont care if you just attach a shipping label to the bar itself and wrap it in a light layer of bubble wrap, so shipping should be easy and I'll pay for that obviously. I have paypal.
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That Z is a travesty and makes me sad. I much prefer a primered project car to that poorly conceived bondo trap. That ad is just as rough...how hard is it to learn how to spell? Figures that the owner that 'designed' that bucket can't spell.
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I spoke with Gabe at TechnoToyTuning about making some S30 Outer Tie Rods. This was a couple weeks ago and he said he would definitely put it on his list of new parts to make, so you could try e-mailing him. He makes some MR-2 tie-rods that look nice, which is what prompted me to ask him about S30 ones.
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Carfax has missed damage on every car I have ever owned.
Same here.
My 350Z got pounded 4 months after I got it brand new in 04/2003 as some guy in Richmond, VA ran a red light at 50mpg, t-boned a solara in the intersection and both cars slid into my drivers side and slid down the entire side. Damage was estimated at $12,500, all body & wheel damage...no suspension/frame damage. Carfax never showed a thing.
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There was an article in the Feb. '09 issue of Sport Compact Car.
http://www.modified.com/tech/sccp_0902_tein_suspension_upgrades_project_s13_tech/index.html
They also had an article on it for their 300ZX project car in 1999. I still have this issue around somewhere, haha.
http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0006scc_project_nissan_300zx_part_5/index.html
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I have dished pistons in stock bore and I have flat tops .020" over. Would either of those be what you are looking for?
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I like Rogue Status. I had a gunshow shirt years ago before they even said Rogue Status on the tag. They have their own car shop...so they may not be enamored with you using their designs, here's a link to their blog: http://www.thesmogcheck.com/rogue_status/?cat=21 However, why not do the tool show like Max Cooper, haha:
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I wear the Safeskin purple nitrile gloves you can get at wal-mart in the band-aid aisle. They are more resistant to chemicals and tears than all the other nitrile gloves I've tried mainly because they seem thicker. They also don't come all stuck together so you don't have to blow them up like a balloon to get them on your hands. Cheap too, 40 for like $4.00.
edit: here are the ones I use: http://www.walgreens.com/store/product.jsp?id=prod2651747&CATID=100954&skuid=sku2651184&V=G&ec=frgl_581422&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=sku2651184 except I buy them at wal-mart for cheaper.
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I'd be wary. But you should know that a LOT of "American" parts are actually rebranded Chinese parts, like it or not. Even some that you'd be quite surprised as they're "trusted" names in the performance business. I won't name names for legal reasons, but I DO know that this is a fact.
I wasn't speaking against chinese made parts in general...just specifically the chinese ebay turbos that are $100-200 brand new. Complete and total junk. If someone already has a turbo, getting it rebuilt would be a MUCH better option and you could even have it ported and different wheels put on at the same time for less than the cost of a new turbo.
I'd rather support a real manufacturer than a chinese knock-off most of the time anyway...unless its like the OBX LSD diff. compared to a Quaife which is a $375 to $1500 price difference.
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No. Thats a junk chinese made turbo with horrible quality components. You get what you pay for with turbos, get a quality Garrett or Turbonetics or something...dont get a chinese turbo from ebay, you'll regret it. It also wouldn't work with the stock 280ZX wastegate as the Nissan 5-bolt flange is different than the "standard" t3 5-bolts.
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I had the problem with my 350Z...but it was my MAF and you said you already replaced that. You are lucky that you have a testbed in your daily Z to verify parts are working properly.
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Umm they will fit my L28?
It dose seem that is what your saying, just a VERY cool tip and wanted to double check:)
yes they do fit for sure. The diesel main bolts are what I used for my build....they use approximately 20 lb/ft more torque than the non-diesel bolts. I have the specs in my build binder somewhere if you want them. I think I got mine for $45 total from Courtesy.
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You can get the Hawk HPS' from Summit for $65.95
Is there a better track compound available by Hawk for the Toyota calipers? There has to be if VARA guys are running them. John C... any recommendations for track pads?
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What I had planned on doing for my '72 240Z which has the different transmission crossmember with no bushings than the later cars was to cut the ends off of the T5 crossmember and then weld on the ends of the early crossmember. I've attached three pictures.
The first shows what the modified crossmember will look like with a T5 center part and the ends from an early crossmember.
The second shows cutting the ends off of a T5 crossmember.
The third shows the difference of the T5 crossmember to a non-T5. The T5 crossmember is on top in the picture.
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Rockauto.com sells them, Spicer brand part #4011312 for the "Professional Grade" or 4011312B for the "Red Label-Service Grade". I have no idea why but it doesn't list the 280Z in what these fit. I also can't tell if the picture is generic or not.
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Why don't you just inject the stock motor mounts with some urethane? Tons of car guys do that, especially 240SX and Honda guys. I'm doing it with my stock L28 mounts with 3M WindoWeld. I've just cut away some of the original rubber and filled in the gaps with the urethane. I've yet to inject the bottom part because I don't yet have a good way to remove the rubber, using a drill or dremel has not been successful. If only I could get a razor sharp straw to push through to take out perfect circles of rubber.
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www.rockauto.com has rear wheel bearings for a '73 240Z for $23.79 rear inner & $25.99 rear outer. Timken part #'s RW116 & RW117 respectively, you'll need to get 2 of each.
Black Dragon sells rear wheel bearing "kits" for $49.95 of which you'll need 2 (one for each side) and their kit includes the oil seal. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ICATALOG/Z/full.aspx?Page=97
Probably the biggest PITA you'll have to deal with to replace the rear wheel bearings is getting the companion flange off to remove the wheel hub as its on there with about 250 lb/ft.
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The 240Z's never had rear frame rails. What most people do is get sub-frame connectors from Bad Dogz http://www.baddogparts.com/index.htm and weld those on over the original frame rails up front and add the subframe connector to the rear. If you don't want to purchase them, plenty of people have fabricated their own.
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Jeremy has helped me out a lot looking into this for me and getting this thing up and running. I owe all you guys a lot of thanks.
0.055 overbore pistons
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I'll confirm that if the Nissan pistons say .050 they are indeed .020" overbore. My crate-motor F54/P90 L28 from the 80's that I just did a rebuild on had the pistons stamped .050 and I bought new .020" overbore pistons and they fit perfectly. I only did a flexhone honing as the cylinders were still in great shape.