junglist
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Posts posted by junglist
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Get a hold of azcarbum he has a line on all different thickness of head gaskets. I have had no problems with mine how ever his prices will scare you. But the parts are quality.
I think he just sells the Kameari gaskets which you can get in different thicknesses and are super expensive but are one of the only good "performance" head gasket options left.
If someone were able to contract out a company to sell some MLS gaskets for these cars for around $100-150 they would make a killing.
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He still sells some stuff on ebay from time-to-time.
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That shop is not 5 minutes from me, its in Sterling, VA and called Piper Motorsports and they are known for doing top-notch fabrication and roll cage work. I was planning on eventually getting a cage put into my Z and taking it to them even though they are a bit pricey, this just confirms they'll get my business.
They are located in a little strip center that has a unit that Dupont of car-owning fame has a unit in to service his cars (not open to the public) but he's got some insane Ferrari's and stuff there.
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I have a Volvo T5R...its 240hp from the factory and it only pushes about 10-11psi. It seems to be a good motor from my experience. Supposedly the T5 motor can handle around 400hp on stock internals if its tuned properly, biggest issue is bent connecting rods.
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Those look nice. Wish they made them in 17's.
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There is a place near me called Fisher's hardware that keeps metric socket cap bolts in stainless steel in stock. Its nice to be able to go there and get most sizes I need...they are more expensive than Fastenal or McMaster, but I don't usually need the quantities those places sell.
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Template? What template?! I didn't get no stinkin template! There wasn't any literature with the kit but I wasn't concerned since all I have been hearing about the supplied instructions has been that it is useless.
Joe
I also got no instructions or templates.
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Yeah. I don't really see any scenario where this would lock up if it failed, unless it has a gear reduction in it, but even then it shouldn't be that hard to muscle. Now, on a conventional PS setup, if the pump fails, you sir are FUBAR'd.
My God mother had a case when she had an accident and crashed head first into a light pole. She said that the steering wheel just jerked all the way to one side and she couldn't steer it to correct. I told her, her pump failed. Appears her insurance agreed
Thats not true, I drove around my 350Z for nearly a year with a blown power steering pump. I blew the pump doing some drifting and donuts and just said F it and drove around for awhile...sucked in parking lots but other than that it wasn't a big deal. The dealer wanted $2300 to fix it because they said the rack needed to be replaced due to "metal contamination". I got a G35 pump from a junkyard for $50 to replace it, worked good as new after flushing the fluid.
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You could always use the Rustoleum or Duplicolor self etching primers....they are an olive/drab green with a flat finish.
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I media blasted the ZX turbo swastika rims I got on a parts car. I tried to avoid blasting the lips which were going to be polished and just blasted all the paint off the front and the entire backside.
Also before blasting I took a ton of simple green, tal-strip and a wirebrush to remove as much scaly and loose dirt/grime before I blasted.
After media blasting I polished the crap out of the lips and filed flat with a bastard file any curb rash. I then hand sanded the old painted areas and then painted the centers with duplicolor wheel paint.
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Totally affordable and light on the wallet at $8,700 and $7,900!
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I have one also, let me know.
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"My Nissan manual says 94 to 123 foot lbs on the rear axle bearing lock nut."
You should scan the pages related to this change and post on here.
Since he made that post almost 5 1/2 years ago and hasn't had any activitiy since August 2008, I doubt he will be replying to this thread.
So that my reply is not useless, here is the Nissan part #'s for the rear wheel bearings and a link to them on CourtesyParts.com. The Nissan part #'s for the rear wheel bearings are:
OUTER: 43215-E4100 - $46.41
OUTER SEAL: 43232-E4100 - $6.60
INNER: 43210-E4100 - $41.41
Note, I've seen the last 5 digits of the part# be different. I have a few sets of NOS rear wheel bearings in Nissan packaging and these are the part #'s they have on them.
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Do you have a picture of what you are talking about so I can make sure I send you the right part? I'm sure I have one that I can send to you. Send me a PM.
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I also have one.
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I have one in decent shape, but shipping looks to be insane for me at almost $100!
You might want to check out www.courtesyparts.com to see if they can ship one to you for cheaper as they only want $63.79 for a brand new one: http://www.courtesyparts.com/horn-pad-1970-1973-240z-p-568995.html?cPath=7724_7760&
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Anyone know where I could get some rust-free doors in VA/DC/MD? I live in northern virginia but am willing to drive a reasonable distance to get a pair of early '70-'73 doors that are in good shape but would consider '74-'76 doors for the right price.
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Are you looking for the Horn pad that says Datsun? Or the actual metal pieces that bolt onto the wheel that the horn pad is affixed onto?
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I kinda always thought of cutting the bumpstops when lowering a car as standard practice. It is or used to be standard with Honda guys. I just did it when converting to coilovers on the Z, didn't really think twice about it. I cut pretty much what John said above and cut off the smaller cone-ish end.
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also it says to source the calipers complete with hangars. what are they so i know if i need to find some or not
He has a picture of the calipers with the hangers on his website, check there for reference.
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I know far too much about these transmissions. My G/F has a '96 Accord auto and she is on her third transmission. We took out her first transmission, put in a used JDM prelude auto tranny from a H23 motor and it crapped out a seal and needed a rebuild. I also had a '92 accord with an auto trans that had tons of issues. Can you describe more of how the transmission reacts when driving? When you shift out of park into reverse or drive does it clunk or engage the gear hard? Is it leaking any fluid at all, out of the axle seals or drainplug or anything? Does the car seem to be "searching" for the right gear when going around corners at relatively low speeds or just at low speeds does it hesitate to shift up into 2nd or 3rd? Does the speedometer & odometer work?
Her Vehicle Speed Sensor also died at one point...I assume that is different than the "Mainshaft Speed Sensor". I only ran the code with a scanner and since hers is OBD2 it told me what was wrong without giving me the code #, or I didn't look for it. I guess yours being a '94 its OBD1?
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You could try running some Mitsubishi Eclipse injectors, RX-7 or some of the Supra injectors. Here is some info for you:
Eclipse injectors:
Non-Turbo 1.8L - N210H Injectors-casting #INP-057 (210cc High Impedance)
Non-Turbo 4G63 - N240H Injectors-casting #INP-059 (240cc High Impedance)
Turbo 4G63 A/T - B390L Injectors-casting #INP-008 (390cc Low Impedance)
Turbo 4G63 M/T - B450L Injectors-casting #INP-009 (450cc Low Impedance)
2G Turbo BlackTops -MDL450 casting #IPN-081 (450cc Low Impedance)
2.4 - MDH275-casting #IPN-065 (275cc High Impedance)
http://www.lextreme.com/rx7injectors.html - RX-7 injectors info
This page has some good injector info, all these are sold as reconditioned and he sells some Z stuff specifically:
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you can't see the site? I've been told this before but everytime I check it out it works for me. What browser and computer are you using? Anyone else had a problem looking at the site?
At work I have a windows pc running xp service pack 3, IE version 7.05
At home I have a windows pc running windows 2000 and Firefox 3 and another windows pc running xp with firefox 3 and for some reason it won't load on any of those. Maybe its my hardware...I dunno. If I go to the direct links like you have at the top of this page everything works fine unless I click on "archive".
I can't wait to see a nearly full CF bodied Z. Are you planning on painting the CF or are you going to leave it raw? What is the motivation of running steel doors compared to having some custom CF skins made for those as well, I'd think that'd be relatively simple compared to making the rear fenders, etc. Is the VQ35 a built motor and what year Z or Maxima is it out of?
turbo harness & timing chain kit
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I have a 280ZXT harness. I also have a 280ZXT intake manifold complete with fuel rail that still has the turbo injectors.