josh817

I don't understand then... How is the porting on the head effective if you only opened up the front of the port and not the whole thing. Thats like me running a 4" exhaust pipe under a car but then have a 2.5" inlet hole on the muffler so it gets all backed up when it has to squeeze through the smaller area. Is this to increase the velocity or what? I plan on taking the head studs from my E88 and putting them in the P90A so this whole 1/8" dowel thing can be discarded in my case because I'm assuming it was only used to center the gasket. Also, if I'm porting up to the gasket, I won't really have this problem yah? I'm essentially just going to set the gasket down and mark the area of metal which is showing, then take all that metal off. Doing that should match the gasket to the head anyways. Matching the intake, well I'd have to think since it seems like I'm going a way different route than you are. Lastly, do I use a gasket from like a L24 motor (e88) or something? If there are injector notches in these heads, I'm guessing the gaskets will also have a notch too? Maybe you can tell me what year of a car I need to buy for the intake gasket, I'm worried each year gasket may have different port hole sizes so if I get a small gasket I wind up with a mild port job... ^ My general idea. I'll ask Zredbaron about water jackets, made this picture for him and we started talking so maybe he will know. The plan is to measure the port opening on the gasket, grab a valve and have our machinist cut it to whatever size I need, and then when I port I can check my progress my sliding the valve into the port. Any nicks or rises in the port which I probably won't be able to see will be struck by the valve when I pass it through the port. Obviously you will either feel resistance or the valve won't pass through at all in that area, thus you grind a little more. I will be unshrouding the valves while I'm at it too and the process of using the gasket will be the same. Lay the head gasket on the head, mark the cumbustion chamber walls to show what metal you have to work with when grinding, and start your work. Don't go past your markings though or else it will undercut the gasket. I'm staying pretty settle with this idea because its in the How To Modify A Datsun OHC Motor. By the way my porting techniques were also written about in the book too. I started porting before I even had the book but when I received it I was surprised I had done it the way they said to (except for what Dragonfly said about grinding length wise... my bad). Are they looking a little better now Dragonfly or do they not pass inspection? :[ More on the rods though! Rod Mass 1 710g 2 709g 3 710g 4 704g (polished) 5 703g (polished) 6 710g So as you can see I still have some balancing to do and I was wrong about polishing taking off so and so grams, sorry about that. This digital scale doesn't read decimal places but comparing the triple beam and this, the triple beam seems just as accurate and it has fractions of a gram. I want these within .5g.

Here is another question for Dragonfly, maybe it will help some other people too. Because I will be running a P90A head, will the injector notches FUBR the flow, especially if you're using carbs? I'm hoping the gasket will cover them up or maybe the intake mani.

Yes, you HAVE to take pictures. Go NOW!

Alright dudes heres some more of the rod action. These are the final steps in rod prep. so next up is porting and polishing the head, along with unshrouding the valves blah blah blah. This is where the fun and interesting stuff starts in my opinion. Once I have all my pieces together I can start putting it all back into recognizable form! Saved big on a P90A head which is really exciting. It has been pressure tested, cleaned, new hardware, and a new Stage IV (.490/290) cam all for $300 since it was bulk. I have no problem buying a P90A, if my luck keeps going the way it is maybe this head or my other P90A will have solid lifters already in them, if not than the money I saved can go to threaded inserts so I can use the solids from my E88 head. I'm pumped up now! The only downside for today is that I only finished 2 rods. Had a late start, showed up at 12, helped Dad finish putting a motor together. Then while Dad was showing me how to polish he had some customers come in and knowing Dad... he talks a lot and the customers respond with questions a lot... and then Dad has to talk a lot more and go into details about vintage racing. Its never ending. So half way through his speech I decided just to go on with polishing since I was pretty sure there wasn't much more to it than what he showed me. Before I got started though I wrote down the initial mass from each rod (remember the mass isn't the REAL mass since I had to put the scale off balance from the rods being so heavy. This is ok though because balancing mass is relative anyways.) Like I said not the real mass but I had figures all within a gram so I felt pretty good about it. Still need to steal the digital scale from my buddy, he wasn't home today. Ok so after you jot down the masses, get the lighted rod and start your work. This won't necesarily be your base mass because you polish more on others sometimes. That was my problem today. Out of the 2 rods I have done, they are now a gram off of each other (571.2g - 572.6g), this doesn't satisfy me so I will take a little off the bottom of the cap BUT not just yet! Do all the rods first, jot down their new masses, then set them all to the lightest rod. THEN you are done. :] Pictures: This is what I had done last time on the grinding wheel. Even though you took out the seams, now you left a bunch of scratches in the rod. As Dragonfly stated, I did them wrong, you should grind longitudinal on the rod. Cracks and breaks will form horizontally, and I have a bunch of scratches (ultimately tiny ridges and valleys) posing as stress points for more cracks to occur. The polishing fixes this, thus the reason I didn't feel guilty about grinding in the wrong direction. Also note the rust which formed, it has only been a week and you have surface rust due to bare metal. If/when you do this job, you don't finish it half way and set it down for a year. Sorry some of them are blurry... This is a polished rod. Its a dull mirror face finish but I oiled them to keep rust away so they look brilliant right now. They are smooth to the touch and all those scratches are gone now. The mass difference from the ground down rod and this rod is roughly 3 grams so you aren't taking a lot off the rod itself. Note, I opened the oil holes back up on the rod, they closed off when I used the grinding wheel. Unfortunately I forgot to bring the camera to the shop today so I didn't get a picture of the tools used but next time I will. FINAL NOTES: - I have officially 30 days left to get this thing in and running! - It would be neat to have a website which is organized by progress rather than a forum thread.

I just read over my post and I wanted to make sure that didn't come off as like a rude statement... When I said "read a little more" I meant like I read a little more in their description, not like hey why don't you read a little better. >_< Just saw that.

Read a little more, its copper ceramic material. "MIBA" in the industry or something.

So basically, if I dump the clutch it may just shatter the pads? Well now. >_< Its sprung, wasn't going to even touch a hub clutch. I'm fine with the flywheel. If its something that can be refaced, cool, if not, I'll just get a new one I suppose. I'll do it if Dragonfly feels like coming back each time. XD Nah I'm not really one to match a cam to carbs. I'd rather have a motor put together and then mess with the induction rather than the other way around. I can just unbolt carbs in 5 minutes, yah know? I am set with this cam because I want the biggest for a street. Maybe I could have done a Stage V (.560/300) but I didn't want to push it really. Didn't want to turn out like the Vette guys at the shop where they have no brakes or anything else thats vacuum because of a huge cam. General concensus for me was, I wanted a power band in the higher rpm's so that it would almost replicate turbo lag on the part of I didn't have power when just cruising. The times I want power, I will be above 3k anyways so get a cam that comes in at 3k and lasts a while. I also wanted a noticeable idle. A stroker with a 10lb flywheel has a good lump to it but now throw in a cam with those rpm ranges and you should be set. I didn't want so lumpy that I would have to set the idle at 1500 or something. Honestly, if prices don't get any better for carbs I'll either just bite it and keep 40's, probably get those 38mm venturis, or get the money and do ITB's or motorcycle Mikuni's. I REALLY have to set a limit for myself though. This is only a car and I still have education to take care of. If I'm begging for book money and playing the boss daddy role in a porn flick to pay for my groceries, that isn't going to work. Not to mention my Catholic Queen of a mother would die if I did that. XD

You don't think there is an easy way out of a clutch? I think I'll buy this clutch, if it works like a champ then tell everyone about it. I've looked up some feedback reports and they're all great. The only bad thing I saw was some dude who had a Stage 3 on his car and it started slipping. He later said he was making 550hp and obviously a Stage 4 was needed for the job. His ebay feedback is large and perfect, and its a company not some dude. Now if I were smart I would have bought that ACT clutch that was on ebay a couple weeks ago. Had like 300 miles on it and was being sold off for $50, I suspected something was fishy though so I bailed. Some stats on this one: $150 350hp rating 6 puck Ceramic disk Looking into how many lb's the pressure plate is going to be rated at.

The list: 1. Can I use l24 crank pulley since I'm not using the ZXT's A/C side or anything. All I need is alternator and water pump. 2. Any advice on what to set the advance for? This is a touchy subject in other threads and I don't have the money to dyno the power differences. Dad has a timing light though. 3. Your 38mm venturis are working fine or would you suggest the bigger 45's? If you have to choke 45's to 36mm then run 40's, that was my general thought. Thats all I have for right now. I'll probably hit you up with more in a PM as I go further along. Technically speaking I'm almost done. I have all my main pieces (besides bearings and gaskets and a head but I'm getting on that), now all I need to do is put it all together, a very exciting thought. The other doubt I have is if and only if the unlikely chance of me making a monster happens, a good clutch will be wasted. I'm not spending $400 for an ACT clutch so I'm going with some other brand which holds 350hp. After you lose power through the drive train, thats like 300-310 at the wheels. Highly doubt thats going to happen but if it does say goodbye to a $140 clutch. That would piss me off and ruin my day. Remember, budget. I'll give you my surprising total at the end of all this.

Thats what I did. Used a bench grinder with a fine wheel and ground the seems out and rounded the points around cap area. As I said in the post, I'm still not done. The final step is to get the air grinder (whatever you want to call it) with a very fine sanding wheel on it, and get rid of all the scratches and such. All the spots where you see the light reflecting in a different way will be polished out completely. Afterwards check the mass again and you're on your way. I trust my dad and how he does his work on the race motors. Even though he doesn't know the L engine, he knows how to do certain things correctly. The rods of the L series aren't special in any way so I treat them the same as all the other race rods we do... other than lightening that is. The only thing I didn't pay attention to was the direction of grinding BUT hopefully the polishing will take care of that. I was afraid of that with the carbs... I can't find 44's or 45's for a decent price though... My 40's came in just yesterday along with a fuel pump, regulator, some big chrome filter, manual, Datsun OHC book, spare jets, and a water temp sensor that I needed. I guess I'll just deal with it until I get the money to go up a notch... 45's are so expensive though, if I did it I may just go over to ITB's or Mikuni motorcycle carbs. That would be damn sexy. How much were the custom venturis from him? My only doubt is that I won't have a head that flows nearly as well as a Rebello or Sun-whatever (brain fart) head since I'm doing it myself too. I guess while I'm at it, are there any water jackets I have to worry about hitting when I port this thing out? Thanks for the help Dragon Fly. If you have any other good advice please share so I don't hurt myself when its all up and running. XD

Yah I know. I'm hoping it wasn't a mistake but I trust what Dad says. Just recently he built a hot race motor for a guy and it blew up a piston, literally, the first day he went out and ran it. This wasn't Dad's problem because the guy told him to use stock pistons on 12:1 comp Triumph motor, bad idea. My point is that when we looked at it, the piston was in the oil pan and the pin was still in the rod, which was perfectly fine and Dad did the same thing to the rod. Anyways we'll see I guess right? I don't know how much I took off because our triple beam balance only went up to 570grams or something and it maxed out. We had to take out some washers from under the plate to get it to work. At that point I set them all to 574g but like I said, this 574g isn't REALLY 574 since we had to take 3 of the washers out. This is ok because when balancing mass is only relative from rod to rod. Get your lightest rod and then match all the other to it. I guess to get the real mass of the rod I would weigh the 3 washers and add that number to 574g. Or just use my friends digital scale...

Well finally another post. Things have been dead lately due to weekend activities. Here's where I'm at now. Rod preparation. I didn't aim for lightening the rods but I did want to remove any flack or cast marks on them. The concept is a tricky one for me because I would think that removing metal makes them weaker but apparently any sharp edges or corners are stress spots. Cracks and breaks will occur in those areas first so what you do is round them off and grind away the seams. I'm still now done with the rods yet as they need polishing to be perfect but they're good to go for the most part. Balanced them within +-1 gram but that was on Dad's triple beam balance. I'm trying to snag my friends digital postal scale for better results. I received my carbs today and I was very impressed. With the carbs came that "Datsun OHC" book, flipped through it and saw some important things about rods. Mainly, replace the 9mm bolts for 3/8" small block Chevy rod bolts. I don't know if its a little bit of over kill but I'm keeping my eyes peeled for some anyways. More good news on the home front, I found another head with all the works on it for very very cheap. This time I won't let it by me. If I get it, I'll save about $600-$800 depending on how I want the head to be. This money is going to go back to MSD (was going to leave it out until I made more money), tires for the new wheels, refurbish the radiator and get electric fans, and a Supertrapp muffler (if you're in Texas and know if its legal or not please tell me, I think its fine though). Oh and last weekend I went to do some flag work at our club races, took some video although its not the best. The sounds are lovely though, if you have ear plugs, otherwise it just kind of sucked until the end of the day when you didn't care anymore. http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=w5mo0&s=3 Group 4 I think, its either 4 or 7. Porsche's, Z's, BMW's, etc. http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=hs1iz8&s=3 Group 1 Big bore cars. The dude in the front we suspected wasn't following the rules because he had the fastest lap for the weekend, beating the Formula Atlantic cars by 2 seconds. The difference between him and legitiment 2nd place was half a lap after 10 minutes. The funny thing is that he was so quick for all the races except for on Sunday when the points race came up he blew his motor. NOTES: Nothing this time.

ALSO! Not to change the subject but my dad just got a call today from one of his customers saying he blew his motor today during practice for this weekends races in our club (Dad builds race motors). At first he thought it was gaskets or something due to the 12:1 comp. motor. Its a Triumph so 12:1 is a grenade for them. Go fast for an unpredictable amount of laps, personally I'd rather have a reliable motor. Anyways, he literally blew up a piston. As in... the piston blew down into the oil pan and the wrist pin is still on the rod. Stock pistons connected to polished, lightened, deburred, and shot peened rods that Dad did. This is another example of die hard projects which have been done cheaply. I am at fault too with my stroker project when it comes to some things. Any and all of us who wish to do hot motors, do it right the first time. I'll try and snag the piston if he doesn't want to keep it as a Doah! Trophy. Sorry 56k users....

Ah I just pulled up the numbers and I was stating the maximum allowed figures for the 2006 season rules. My mix up there. "For 2006, the engines must be 90° V8 of 2.4 litres maximum capacity with a 98 mm maximum circular bore, which imply a 39.7 mm minimum stroke." Last night though I was trying to think of any ideas on how to make maybe a high revving lawn mower engine/pneumatic motor using actual pistons. Yah I COULD go out and buy like a go cart motor but it would be fun to design all the parts yourself or to do a mix match of parts. Anyways, after playing paintball and such, one thing you worry about when shooting quickly is if the air can recharge fast enough for the next shot, otherwise that ball would just roll out of the barrel or go 20 ft. At 35 balls per second the air can barely keep up with the speed and sometimes it will fall behind. Basically where I'm going with this is that when dealing with a pneumatic motor it makes sense to go small. Less mass for one thing but the amount of air used to force the piston back down is much lower than with a big bore. Keep in mind that the motor I would like to build will be pretty much like a gas motor, valves and everything, but you would use air to move the piston. With the given amount of time for the valve to stay open and the PSI of going into the motor, you can only go so far. If you run into problems with recharge rates than you either lower the volume of the cylinder or do PORTING. So yes a small piston/cylinder is probably better off BUT the problem which I explained about the air motor can be fixed by doing what motor builders do today and increase the flow of the head. Lastly, and most obvious when building a hot motor, make sure numbers are exact. Any unnecessary free play in the rotating mass will not only throw off balance but will put a choke hold on the RPM's. The perfect example is below. Here is a little air motor my dad built when he was a teenager: Notice how in the last 2 pictures I moved the crank in and out but only slightly. This motion limited the motor to about 8000RPM. If we were to make another one but with finer specs, I'm sure we could hit 12k. the way it works is the cylinder moves with the piston. It wobbles side to side and when the ports align it draws in air, and then when it moves away from the ports the air flows out. You can find videos of it on Youtube.

Theoretically it sounds like a good plan but I'd take it from everyone else here. The L engine has is unique spots. Generally speaking the logic behind high revving is short stroke and big bore. Short stroke allows more revolutions because of well... obviously the small travel distance. Large bore to compensate for the short stroke would be my best guess. Big bore is more horsepower while big stroke is more torque, thus the reason why you see strokers. People love torque but torque doesn't like top end. If you really wanted to go ape **** on your project then get liners/wet liners, bore that thing out as much as you can without running into problems, and run the l24 bottom end. Don't take it from me though, I just base my thoughts off of F1 info and such... Thats the only reason why they have 3 liter V8's and V12's. Make 700hp but only 370ftlb, tiny tiny tiny stroke with a huge bore. I don't have the numbers in front of me but I think it was something like 25mm stroke with 97mm bore. Something crazy.

Alright guys I had to make 2 trips over to the shop this weekend so thats slightly annoying. 30 minutes to and from with idiotic traffic. The block is ready to go to the machine shop! Spent some time tearing it down and this time I used power tools rather than wrenches. On the L24 block I had used wrenches and it took forever to get everything apart. Air rachets and impact driver is the quick way to a tear down. Except... when it came to the main bearings, well that took forever because they're wedged in, especially the rear main seal. I really would like to meet the machine shop man, Rick. Dad's been doing business with him for 20 years so I trust his work, maybe even get a deal or something but I don't expect one. Its his business, and business is business no matter who usually. The crank, pistons, l24 pistons w/ rods, block, and box of stuff to vat are all going this round. The head is later on, he just needs to take it apart and vat it. We will do the porting and polishing and then send it back to be cleaned up and put together. The rods are a similar deal. He will press them out, vat, we will lighten/polish/debur them, send them back to be pressed onto new pistons. This is where I get cheap though and I don't know if its much of a big deal or not... Dad says he'll have the rods shot peened. Well thats cool but I'm on a budget and I feel that Nissan rods were pretty beefy anyways. It can't be too much though and I will probably do it anyways since we are lightening them so that beefy sensation has disappeared. The same goes for balancing. I am only doing rods and pistons rather than the full rotating mass. I feel bad about it but thats a MAJOR expense which is probably worth it but we must remember that this isn't a track car. I heard people say 30-50% of power can be lost from that sort of thing but we'll see. If this motor is a mess up then the next won't be. Live and learn. Hate it. I'm seeing what people mean by aim high for price estimates. I have one price here but after Dad said shot peen, and ceramic coat, well what else... I know I'll have enough money but I split the funds up, body work and motor. Now I'm digging into body work which basically means paint isn't coming anytime soon... Speaking of money... The machine work should take 2 weeks, he's a week behind in work right now. This is good and bad. Good because the guy who bought my turbo setup is out taking care of a stolen car of his. He must not have access to a computer because every time he sends me a message, I reply, by then he's gone and I have to wait another 3 days. Essentially, I don't have funds to cover machine work but I told the guy that I need the money in 2 weeks. I know he will send it but I don't know how long he is going to take. My concerns are having a bill I can't pay not only making me look like a dead beat but my dad's integrity also drops slightly since my work goes through him. We'll see. My other concern is that I won't make my dead line. Not because I can't work that quickly but because of shipping. I do hope MSA ships well because I plan on grabbing one of their cams. I would say order now but... money again... I'm in this pickle because I purchased 40mm carbs with a pump, reg, filter, manual, assorted jets, and How to Rebuild a Datsun Motor for $805. Score baby. During this down time I must build a project for physics. An electric trolley car sort of thing which has to travel 10 meters, then travel back the 10 meters in 30 seconds. The power comes in through 2 cables which are connected from 1 wall to the other, and the car sits or hangs from it. The trick is having it go one direction and then come back and you can't touch any of it. Dad suggested a timer set for 15 seconds, when its up have it reverse the polarity and go the other way. The teacher said about the same thing but instead of a timer just have a switch so when it reaches the end, something will bump into the wall and flip the switch. We'll see. Pictures: NOTES: -Kitty litter works wonders for spills. I used a lot... -If anyone knows the magic number for lightened rod mass that would be great. Unless you just lighten them as much as you can. -Are pulleys interchangeable? I want the L24 pulley on this motor because I'm not running A/C but I don't know if that is going to send balancing out the window by a bunch. Use a Maxima pulley to match the crank? -Donations to the paypal account "gracefullearner04@yahoo.com" would be great Kidding, send your money to Hybridz.

You know you can write "refused" on the box and they will send it back for free right? Happened to me with some dude in New York. Sold him a set of tail light back plate things (the black plastic things). He said he'd send the money right away but he needs this stuff quickly because the body shop is charging him storage fees. I sent with my money to him, and then it came back a week later saying rejected, and I was never paid for shipping. That bastard, could have atleast taken the things...

Dodge dealership downpipe works fine, although you will feel that it was a waste of money because they cut so much of it off to fit. As you can see on my motor being pulled, the darker pipe after the elbow is the downpipe from the dealership. Then you can see the horrible job that the exhaust shop did going to a 3" pipe... Dad made it sound like that would have a 4" to 3" piece to put in... rather they just filled in the 1/2" gap with a crappy weld. It was fine up front but looked horribly messy. In the back though, you can see where it was leaking out before going into the muffler. Bastards. OH and its probably best just to use dealership downpipe. Do it the right the first time around with the correct clamps and stuff.

Yup, just make sure those cranks match in bearing size and you should be good to go. Besides the turbo head bolts should be stronger I hear so no need to interchange those either unless your F54 didn't have with it.

No, too much pressure = breaking stuff inside carbs like gaskets or floats depending on what you're running. Happy zone: 2-5psi, atleast for Webers. Maybe you do something like a fuel rail instead of having 6 lines, then run it underneath the mani rather than on top. This way its not so visible. And throw in a heat shield too. I don't know how that stuff works but it sounds like it would be a bright idea to keep it shielded from hot pipes. OR maybe you do like this: The injectors are spraying directly into the throttle body barrels. MAYBE you use the air box, but inside the air box is where you hide the pipes. Then you do the same concept as a fuel rail and you have a nozzle spraying into each carb barrel (1 for each cylinder). This way its hidden inside the airbox, and you don't just spray the whole shot into the airbox and it just goes into whichever cylinder, but you spray directly into the barrel. Excuse my John Madden drawing:

All those parts are interchangeable throughout the Nissan L6 motors. Even the Nissan Diesel Maxima shares the same bearings. So yes, bearings will work for either one, as long as they're the same size for each crank (IE: one crank is STD make sure the other is STD too) You can interchange those heads on the blocks too if you so desire.

Yah thats another issue, timing. I need to read up on how much advance to run... seems like its been debated so I can't make a clear confident choice. Same goes for degreeing a cam. The sticky'd thread says you should be within 1-2 degrees, but I saw a guy posting his dyno results showing a 2 degree change made like 15+HP. I guess it will take expensive dyno time. I'll just have to wait until the club has another group dyno, or maybe the Z club around here but the latest one was the one with Big Phil's dyno run so there probably won't be another too soon.

Well.. 400hp isn't in my grasp any day. BUT I will be satisfied with 200+ I think. Even with 1psi of boost (tried to keep the turbo all nice so I could sell it) it still felt nice and that CAN'T be a good amount of power... Only reason why I asked about the head is that I was hoping I would get lucky and have an early P90A head which had solids. Otherwise I'm left with trading/buying a P90 or doing the hydraulic to solid conversion that Big-Phil made a video about on Youtube. If I can find the correct hardware then I'll do that. ALSO, if you remember me saying Dad knows a lot of quarky trick **** to do to motors. I saw I have a cylinder head temp sensor on this motor, towards the rear of the head. I also read the cylinder 5 has some cooling issues. Our plan is to have the water temp. and that sensor going into a switch, and then 1 wire from the switch to the water temp gauge. This way I can switch between the 2. Now, I don't know normal head temp. or if it will max out the water temp. gauge but hey, its cool.

Actually I figured with some set backs, my RPM range should get back to usual. 3" exhaust doesn't just increase flow but it also pushes the RPM down by a little. That cam should be could up to 7000RPM so thats good too. Not looking for a drag car, more like a track car. I want the Z to be as trackable as a street car can legal be. This way when I get out of college and I lose the BMW, because I KNOW Dad won't want to give it up, all I will have to do is rebuild my spare L24 block and take out some things from the car and I'll be ready. I will also compensate for a slightly dead 0-60 take off by putting in a 4.11 diff. its all good. ! I have the Weber DGV's and Dad says they're good carbs easy maintenance but he is speaking for Triumphs and not Datsun. Most people I hear say they suck and rather go to SU's, as for me, I'll stick with triple 40mm. Gas mileage? Don't care. The turbo motor didn't do any better than 20mpg on VERY nice driving. OK I COULD spend the money on college books but I will work extra hard to get that money. Besides, UT you ride a bike not a car. I understand its not going to be easy to do this project and its not easy to make a high powered NA carb'd motor, especially an old one with non crossflow blah blah blah. But thats what I like. My last post I purposely kept out the sentence "its easy to make power from a V8 or a turbo motor" because I didn't want any arguments but it comes off that way to me. I won't question how easy or how hard it is though. If it was easy to make power with a turbo then I would be keeping it now wouldn't I. I think if time becomes a REAL problem with the BMW (we have been working on it for a year now and the next racing license is this Setember), then I will just have Dad put in a fuel cell and an ok roll cage into the Z and use it as a track car for that weekend. Doesn't tickle my fancy putting it up to those sort of stresses but if we need to it will be done... There are only 2 classes a year so you know...

I do need a bumper. My friend ran into the back of me at 5mph and the only thing that stopped him was the exhaust pipe. >_< Atleast he offered to pay for it but I can just bang it out I think. I would like to buy one but don't have the money. I will probably just make a metal bar and attach it to the bumper mounts. It won't withstand a 30mph hit but if I was stupid and backed into a light pole my tail lights would be safe. Help any?