Jump to content
HybridZ

Ben280

Donating Members
  • Posts

    324
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

Posts posted by Ben280

  1. Hi HybridZ universe!

     

    Been taking a break from the car for a bit, but starting to get more motivated here. Let's do our quick catch up first. 

     

    ORP was an interesting event. We had positives, but the issue that wrecked the car in July surfaced it's head again. Turns out the ABS was overpowering the master cylinder seals on the front circuit and causing massive pressure losses. I had more pronounced but less consequential failure out there, but had good data to show what was wrong. I got my hands on some Tilton Type 79 master cylinders, developed specifically for the Audi LeMans teams who were seeing a similar failure in their master cylinders. I also had to upgrade the pedal box as these are bearing mount master cylinders. 

     

    The plan was to run the car again at PIR, but that event ended up getting canceled, and so the car has sat since September. Slowly getting poked at, and trying to figure out where I wanted things to go. 

     

    I made some aero mods to the fenders, and have been slowly cleaning up the firewall and some other areas. 

     

    The big change I'm in the middle of here is with my ECU. I'm ditching the megasquirt and going Haltech. The LS never really ran right on the megasquirt, and when I started seeing some odd stuff starting it up for the first time this year, that was all the impetus I needed to ditch that. It'll be for sale shortly, expect to see it soon. 

     

    Hoping to get to an event this year with the car, but really not sure when or where. For now, here's where we sit. I put it down on the ground for the first time since August last year. 

     

    434523569_7484065871701054_551360852349817371_n.jpg.91f5f2006aaf6d1189dfaca5ff49758a.jpg

     

    • Like 1
  2. Going to agree with @AydinZ71 on this one and recommend you get a new factory style tank and external pump. A fuel cell used to be the "easy" route, but if you want one with proper baffling, pumps, surge tanks etc, you are looking at double the cost of a factory style tank, and that doesn't include the fab work to make it fit. Fuel cell's also require semi frequent inspection which is unnecessary on a OEM style tank. 

     

    If you DO want to use a fuel cell, the Radium FCST setups are the way to go, and is what I have in my car. I have 2 AEM 50-1200 pumps in there. They were great with the old L series motor and are doing just fine with the LS. When you do the AN lines, be sure to get ones that are rated for ethanol. A lot of the rubber in the standard lines isn't designed for any amount of ethanol, so the E-10 in typical pump gas will make them rot out. 

  3. PRE uses a Dynojet. Can't remember if those are supposed to read high or low, but it's a good metric if you always use the same one! I'd have liked a bit more power, but I think ~400hp is more than enough to get into trouble. (clearly!)

     

    IMG_2282.jpeg.bf7183397a87867b74abae219106046e.jpeg

     

    So far the repairs are minor, and the trick has been sourcing panels. A PNW local reached out and had a set of fenders and headlight buckets he sold me for a song, and I'm taking a trek up north on Saturday to pick up a new hood. I think the airdam is mostly savable, but the old headlight covers and flares are toast. Working to get a new set of flares from Japan, and another instagram follower was super kind and sent me some replacement headlight covers! 

     

    Planning to have the car back out August 19/20 at ORP. We'll have some crazy mis-matched body work and a plywood splitter, but I think we should be in decent shape for continuing to shake the car down!

     

    IMG_2341.jpeg.39de3bdfdb13c98bf8b8c27a1f736709.jpeg

     

     

  4. Ok, mini report!

     

    We made it to Global Time Attack!! It was super close, and looking doubtful at some points, but we did it. PRE Racing here in Portland was great and they really pushed to get the tune finalized before heading out. I'm still having issues with the idle, but we think that's the Megasquirts fault. The Idle motor is also probably a piece of junk, but we're leaving it alone for now. 

     

    Official dyno numbers came in at 395hp/385tq. Not too shabby, but we aren't taking the timing at high RPM that we would expect. I think a ECU refresh is in the cards, but for now we have a safe tune and she RIPS. Fully loaded we are at 2500 with driver. 

     

    GTA was shaping up to be a shakedown weekend. I knew there would be teething pains, things needed to be reviewed and I was pretty rusty from a year away. First session out the plan was to go out, make a couple hot laps, see how everything felt and then come in and check everything over. The car wanted to get after it! This thing is a rocketship on the straights now, i might need to swap the gears around again to make sure I have the legs! 

     

    3D72192B-BFD4-457E-AD94-9B89C39D5AB4.JPG.5db747d170e3c93d4f27d1a4c75a7893.JPG

     

    Second session was a similar plan, go out, make sure everything felt ok and then come in. I decided to lean on it a little bit and see what was what. The grip on these tires (Continental ECF) weren't spectacular, but they were solid. I think they need a full and proper heat cycle to get good. I noticed a little bit of locking into T8, which was weird because I have ABS, but didn't think much of it. In retrospect, this was a big mistake. I was able to improve, 1:52.3. 2 seconds slower than my fastest time last year, but really poor driving. I'm carrying so much more speed into the corners, and not fully trusting the car yet, it's challenging to go really fast, but going deep into the 40's at this track is certianly on the cards now. 

     

     

    A lunch break and we jacked the car up, checked over some suspect oil leaks, moved a oil line off the header and started to make a plan of what to check over at the end of the day. 

     

    First semi push lap out and a major lockup over a bump sent me head on into a tire wall. The car looks worse than it really is. The car doesn't pull, frame is still as straight as it was before this, (which is to say still a little kinked) and everything still works! No leaks or anything, which is great. Bad news is all the sheet metal is toast and the very fancy splitter took a mega hit into the wall and is a write off. 

     

    IMG_2288.jpeg.db38eaf414b718400a44f913ef851e61.jpeg

     

    Definitely a bummer, put an end to the weekend, but the car is making a quick resurgence. A lot of folks have reached out to me and offered parts. Last thing to sort out is the splitter, and I need to make a handful of parts, but overall we are looking to be in really good shape for another event in a few weeks!

     

    Onward and upward my friends. 

  5. Looking good!

     

    When choosing an ECU, I would ask your tuner what they prefer and buy that. Make sure it is compatible with all your bits and bobs. Haltech for example is notorious for keeping their CAN stuff difficult to access, similar to AIM. Tuners can work on just about anything, but what they can do and what they like to do are often different. 

     

    I saved my megasquirt for the V8 conversion, but I would have been better off buying a Link or a Haltech, purefly from an ease of tuning perspective. Megasquirt idle control is finnikey at best! 

  6. Small update, the car is back from my buddy getting the exhaust done, so that's great! pretty stoked how it turned out. We are using spintech mufflers, and going for the IMSA/Cup car dual center exit, while keeping things as tucked as possible. I opted for ovalized tube under the diff, really hope this gets me the clearance I want/need. 

     

    35196635_IMG_2491Large.jpeg.2bc344f16edda2cd01cbdd77acb9c50a.jpeg     IMG_2652.JPEG.b23dd7886cec4e3ec64f05972faa2204.JPEG

     

    IMG_2649.JPEG.e7c9d265df42479686fa7a3a02775b89.JPEG.    IMG_2647.JPEG.894705ec674119f01f35220383aeba19.JPEG

     

    Tires also showed up! I need a seat time tire that won't kill me or break the bank. I went with the Conti Extreme Contact Force with is a 200 treadwear tire, but is endurance focused. From what my track friends tell me, it should wear like iron, and be pretty reasonable pace wise. I'm hoping to get about a season and a half out of them. I got 315/30r18 in the rear and 295/30r18 in the front. Planning to narrow up the front wheels at some point, but with the LS, there is way less weight on the front of the car to help warm stuff up. Lots of people who I've talked with say that going smaller tire up front has been real beneficial, so we'll see. Planning to set the car up for these sizes which will let me switch out easily for the Yokohama a052 or the Hoosier A7 in the same sizes. 

     

    456569414_IMG_2109Large.jpeg.8ae2b82d853839e6564bcc54441de015.jpeg

     

    2038881063_IMG_1825Large.jpeg.207143030781d64511525e5d1d7c8e99.jpeg

  7. I have a camshaft and towers that were in my stock of spares that I am including with the head. The towers and camshaft that were in the car when the pump failed are obviously garbage, and are currently on my wall as offerings to the gods of speed. 

     

    The head casting itself appears to be in good shape. I would recommend you take it to a shop to have it dimensioned and checked over and generally cleaned up. Let me know if you are interested, I'm happy to provide additional pictures or dimensions if you would like!

  8. For what it's worth, Jonathan Lugod (Shaftworks) does all the rebuilding/revalving for just about every high end shock available, and has been a household name in SCCA circles for a long time now. If you have a OS Giken product, you've probably talked with him, he was OSG USA for a number of years. I will be using his struts on this version of the car and will report in when I get the car on track! 

  9. Summit Line Lock $50

    • Apply 12v, this will lock the front brakes and make smokey burnouts and staging for drag racing really nice and easy!

    767591865_IMG_1891Large.jpeg.53d1a64d1866946eb11e1fca0d7ad683.jpeg

    OEM Alternator bracket and tensioner $20

    989261604_IMG_1893Large.jpeg.f300e95130547d07c68fb5e149d6f889.jpeg

     

    EMP/Stewart electric water pump $400

    • Used for testing/fitup, never run on the engine

    1675527081_IMG_1894Large.jpeg.b5bb8b84a8afa1161177f63b61a8b21b.jpeg456601872_IMG_1895Large.jpeg.33f97b1070f568e854b5015ffeddab87.jpeg

     

  10. Unloading a ton of good stuff since I am transitioning away from the L series motor. Let me know if there is stuff you need or additional photos you want! All prices include shipping to the lower 48. International shipping is fine but will be extra. 

     

     

    PLX Wideband Controller $80 

    912160727_IMG_1846Large.jpeg.1d86ab8c93b78dde7e7d56abb0a2738c.jpeg

     

    RT Diff Mount $50

    • A bit beat up, I re-drilled the upper mount since it didn't seem to fit nicely with my R200. Still works great however. Includes the conical rubber bushing (not pictured)

    1607019838_IMG_1848Large.jpeg.b382361abe9dc372287d562ce8a498d8.jpeg

     

     

×
×
  • Create New...