Jump to content


Donating Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Ben280 last won the day on November 13 2020

Ben280 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Good

1 Follower

About Ben280

  • Rank
    Always Here

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Portland OR

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Marugen Shokai http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/ Can also get them from RHDJapan: https://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-works-over-fenders-standard-type-s30-s31.html Designed for a front G nose car, so lots of modifications needed to make em fit a standard car with or without an airdam.
  2. Thanks guys! @clarkspeed Daytona sounds like a real trick with the speed differential. Can you opt for a main shaft that you can just barely get rolling off the line, but allows the top speed? I keep thinking about a Winters style quick change, so I don't have to rebuild a couple of rear ends around my diff. I think my ratios are good for my power, and I just need to modify top speed with final drive. Looking at west coast tracks, I think a top speed in the 150's is ideal. much faster you need tons more power, and a 5 or 6 speed to keep the ratios reasonable.
  3. Exedy OEM on a lightweight flywheel is a great choice, Exedy makes good stuff. ClutchMasters makes a good flywheel for our cars, I'd recommend that as well. You don't need extra clamping force with stock + power levels, so no need to go full stage 6 unsprung whatevers. A Tilton 5.5" would be the next best thing, just because it will reduce rotational mass enormously, but it's at the expense of everything else.
  4. Hey Clark! Sorry not sorry Conversion to 18's was a major project. Gearing isn't fully sorted out yet, it was geared short for autox use, so it's not quite ideal for the track yet. Going to 18's gave me a 25.5" tall tire, from a 23.5" tire, so keeping everything the same has moved my top speed out a bit at the expense of low end grunt. I have a 3.90 rear end and a Jerico 4 speed, so I can get fully nutty with the ratios. I'm considering going back to the 3.54 rear end (need to find one) to get some more top speed, but right now being gear limited to 135mph feels just fine by me!
  5. Congrats on a serious score!!
  6. The other thing you can do to check the ratio, mark a dot on the input spline and a mark on the output flange, and count the rotations. 3.54 or 3.90 would be likely for this diff I think. The finned cover is $$$, nice piece!
  7. With that spindle pin fused in there, I'm not sure! The drums have value to some of the road race guys who can't get nice ones any more, I sold a set a long time ago now for $75. I think T3 is still buying the rear housings, but those have some value as well. Everything else on there I'd classify as useful, but only to a small group of people. The halfshafts are increasingly tough to find, you can probably get $100-$150 out of them. You'll find most people are moving away from these as you are, so we all have the same stuff sitting in our garage cabinets!
  8. Check out Longacre or Joes Racing, they make a lot of good tools for us homegamers to keep tabs on alignment. You can also do string alignments and things with plumb bobs, but I like having the right tool for the job! I will say, having the tools to do alignments at home or at the track is great, and it's pretty helpful to check, but I would recommend taking the car to a shop once or twice a year, to get the thing fully lined up. Particularly when you've done a full suspension rebuild, it's very helpful. They can address things like Caster, CAI, KPI and wheelbase which is very hard to measure
  9. For track width, that rear heim joint and nut are the ones that need to be adjusted off the car. That "toe link" piece is just like a tie rod, and is designed to be adjusted on the car. You'd want to make sure the spindle pins are parallel to each other, and the centerline of the car. That would be neutral toe. For a heim joint, I THINK rule of thumb is 1.5x diameter inserted. So for 1/2" heim, you'd want 3/4" of threads engaged. Your understanding on the camber plate is correct and 2* of camber is a good starting spot. Personally, I'd set track width first and see where that puts
  10. 1) Nope, no bushings, just that bolt and the washers. 2) The washers are there to help adjust the wheel fore/aft in the wheel well, so you can get your strut to be vertical. 3) Track width is adjusted with the "toe link" piece, and that second heim joint. If you want to maximize your track width, adjust the rearward heim with the arms off the car, so you can match the length left to right a bit easier. 4) Totally normal! No need to eliminate the up/down pivoting, it helps in the event of binding from not getting the strut dead perpendicular to where the bo
  11. I've used Innovative, AEM and PLX, and found PLX to be the easiest to use. AEM might be better for you since you'll be relying on a gauge (PLX integrated really well with my ECU). Didn't care for Innovative at all.
  12. 1 is better than none! I'm only using one on my car, but with the ITB's I'd have to go fully nutty if I wanted to tune per cylinder. Paying special attention to keeping the carbs synched up on airflow will pay dividends for you on this. One thing to remember about AFR gauges too, they measure the combustion gasses. So, if you're running very very rich, with a lot of unburnt fuel, it will read on the gauge as lean, which leads you to add more and more fuel with no change on the gauge. Ask how I know, haha!
  13. If you are going to use this for race time troubleshooting, I'd think about running 2, one for each carb. One main one will certainly be an upshot, but two would give you some really good insight into how each carb is behaving. Personally, I like PLX widebands.
  • Create New...