Ben280

Most AIM systems include a datalogger setup in the dash, the exception being the Strada series. The PDM system includes a "dumb" dashboard, and the datalogger is in the PDM. The AIM software is a bit easier to use compared to the RaceCapture, and it's a bit more track focused. RC is very much the "megasquirt" of the data world.

Lol engine codes. The digi dash is run off the RaceCapture box, which is primarily a datalogger for the car and gets info from the MS3 via CANBUS. The dash itself is a Amazon Fire 7. It was a good solution at the time, but I've been thinking about upgrading to an AIM PDM with a 7" display. The Amazon Fire tablet is a bit dark and hard to see in direct sunlight, but let's be honest, you're not staring at it most of the time. The Racecapture software lets you customize the dash pretty thoroughly, so I've got warning screens that will pop up if my oil or coolant temps ge

Ground controls use a different top spring perch that might work better with the Koni/factory top hat than the T3 mount. I use the Eibach springs on my car, they are a solid option for sure.

By my reading of these rules, you can use a threaded perch. The Z's from the factory have a "coil over" style suspension so you're good to go. That rule is designed to prevent cars with divorced spring/shock rear ends from switching to a true coilover setup, 350z rear ends for example, or a solid rear axle cars.

Put in some bumpstops. Bottoming out on the chassis is different from bottoming out the shock, and one instance of this on the konis will ruin them. If you can run ground control style collars, then any 2.5" spring will work. Eibach and Hypercoil both make good ones, I'd look at something in the 300/350 range to start out with for a track application. You can easily measure the spring rate on the new spring, just measure the free length, and then add weight until it compresses by 1 inch. You'll then know the in/lbs rating of the spring. The cut springs will be a placeh

Looking at these two, and Techno has made some interesting decisions. Chief of which is making a new diff cover so it can mount in a "factory" style mustache bar. The T3 kit does appear to come with rear struts and springs, where the Apex kit doesn't, but the Apex kit includes rear control arms, where the T3 kit assumes you have them already. I do think the Apex rear control arm design (using heim joints inboard) with their subframe is a superior design. I do wish the Apex rear knuckles had the option of using a T3 style bolt on strut, rather than the standard weld on style. I jus

@zbloke's recomendations for lengths are solid. Remember you can always shim up the strut if you need to, but you can't make the strut shorter! I haven't used the MSA Koni, but I suspect that it's a custom length version of the koni sport, which isn't nearly as nice a strut as the 8610 (generally referred to as the Koni Race). As a general rule for my car, and parts purchasing, I tend to shy away from parts that are "exclusive" or don't have a lot of data to go with them. I'm sure Koni would give you the details about them if you wanted, they just can't sell them. @jhm

Summit Racing, or I've used ECS/Amazon for those Konis. There are 4 or 5 different lengths of the Koni 8610/8611 (they aren't vehicle specific) so you can measure what length you want and go from there! https://performanceshock.com/KONI_86_series_race.pdf Quick guide to the different part numbers available for these! The 8610 is a single adjustable strut, with rebound adjustment on the top of the housing. The 8611 adds compression adjustment with a second adjuster at the bottom of the housing. the 8610 is probably the right call for you. They are a little more expensive, but I thin

As New Zed said, that style device forces lock in places that aren't designed to be loaded. The reason nobody has any evidence that they are garbage is that similar style devices have been around for a long time, and been found wanting. I'd be interested to see how many of those they sold. They'll fit no problem, I've mentioned on threads here before that the R200 internals are pretty similar between the 280z, 280zx, s13, s14 and s15. the 280z, zx, and s13 share the same center section. With these products, you're only buying the metal rectangle, not the center section, so there's

Koni 8610 or 8611 are the only way to go if you are doing strut inserts. The weld on kit is a solid deal, I'd pair that with the correct length 8610 and be set for a long time.

Just as a quick FYI while you're looking for diff center sections. If you have a long nose R200 in the car already, any center section designed for a s13 open diff will slot right in. Should open up a ton of options for you since most manufacturers sell a LSD that fits in that car.

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