Jump to content


Donating Members
  • Content Count

  • Donations

    80.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Ben280 last won the day on November 13

Ben280 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

10 Good

1 Follower

About Ben280

  • Rank
    Always Here

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Portland OR

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ground controls use a different top spring perch that might work better with the Koni/factory top hat than the T3 mount. I use the Eibach springs on my car, they are a solid option for sure.
  2. By my reading of these rules, you can use a threaded perch. The Z's from the factory have a "coil over" style suspension so you're good to go. That rule is designed to prevent cars with divorced spring/shock rear ends from switching to a true coilover setup, 350z rear ends for example, or a solid rear axle cars.
  3. Put in some bumpstops. Bottoming out on the chassis is different from bottoming out the shock, and one instance of this on the konis will ruin them. If you can run ground control style collars, then any 2.5" spring will work. Eibach and Hypercoil both make good ones, I'd look at something in the 300/350 range to start out with for a track application. You can easily measure the spring rate on the new spring, just measure the free length, and then add weight until it compresses by 1 inch. You'll then know the in/lbs rating of the spring. The cut springs will be a placeholder though and nothing more, I wouldn't waste too much time with them.
  4. Looking at these two, and Techno has made some interesting decisions. Chief of which is making a new diff cover so it can mount in a "factory" style mustache bar. The T3 kit does appear to come with rear struts and springs, where the Apex kit doesn't, but the Apex kit includes rear control arms, where the T3 kit assumes you have them already. I do think the Apex rear control arm design (using heim joints inboard) with their subframe is a superior design. I do wish the Apex rear knuckles had the option of using a T3 style bolt on strut, rather than the standard weld on style. I just bought one of the Apex subframes, which I'll be pairing with some T3 backing plates, so this should be interesting. No axles for me, but I think I have a solution for that!
  5. @zbloke's recomendations for lengths are solid. Remember you can always shim up the strut if you need to, but you can't make the strut shorter! I haven't used the MSA Koni, but I suspect that it's a custom length version of the koni sport, which isn't nearly as nice a strut as the 8610 (generally referred to as the Koni Race). As a general rule for my car, and parts purchasing, I tend to shy away from parts that are "exclusive" or don't have a lot of data to go with them. I'm sure Koni would give you the details about them if you wanted, they just can't sell them. @jhm makes a really good point about rules. Not that you are planning to run EP for road racing, but might be good to make sure that going with this style of suspension won't disqualify the car!
  6. Summit Racing, or I've used ECS/Amazon for those Konis. There are 4 or 5 different lengths of the Koni 8610/8611 (they aren't vehicle specific) so you can measure what length you want and go from there! https://performanceshock.com/KONI_86_series_race.pdf Quick guide to the different part numbers available for these! The 8610 is a single adjustable strut, with rebound adjustment on the top of the housing. The 8611 adds compression adjustment with a second adjuster at the bottom of the housing. the 8610 is probably the right call for you. They are a little more expensive, but I think it's worth it for the performance!
  7. As New Zed said, that style device forces lock in places that aren't designed to be loaded. The reason nobody has any evidence that they are garbage is that similar style devices have been around for a long time, and been found wanting. I'd be interested to see how many of those they sold. They'll fit no problem, I've mentioned on threads here before that the R200 internals are pretty similar between the 280z, 280zx, s13, s14 and s15. the 280z, zx, and s13 share the same center section. With these products, you're only buying the metal rectangle, not the center section, so there's very little compatibility concerns. This is a case of don't waste your money. PhantomGrip is a "better known" version of this product, and has lots of reviews. They are "useful" in applications where no true LSD options exist, but for the Nissan R200, there's LOTS of options.
  8. Koni 8610 or 8611 are the only way to go if you are doing strut inserts. The weld on kit is a solid deal, I'd pair that with the correct length 8610 and be set for a long time.
  9. Just as a quick FYI while you're looking for diff center sections. If you have a long nose R200 in the car already, any center section designed for a s13 open diff will slot right in. Should open up a ton of options for you since most manufacturers sell a LSD that fits in that car.
  10. Time to sell the front brake/hub setup off this car! Asking $1050 shipped for all of it. I'd like to sell this as a full kit, but I've priced it out individually as well. Happy to wheel and deal so send me the offers! -Techno Toy Tuning 280z Aluminum hubs with lightweight CNC brake hats: $725 shipped anywhere in the continental USA. Includes lightweight hubs with new Koyo bearings. ARP extended studs m12x1.5, as well as the studs that came with the hubs, m12x1.25. 2 sets of scalloped rotors. If the scalloped rotors aren't your thing, you can buy solid rotors that will bolt up to the hats. With the scalloped rotors, it's a super light setup, you can check out my build thread for more details on the build. Designed to work with the Silvermine Motors Wilwood kit. It saves about 11lbs per side over the factory steel hubs and an equivalent 12" rotor! -Silvermine Motors Wilwood Brake Kit: $550 shipped anywhere in the Continental USA Includes calipers, brackets, 2x sets of Hawk DTC-30 pads, and a set of Hawk HPS pads. Not shown but also includes a set of blank rotors, factory hubs with new bearings and APR studs. I will also throw in some tooling I to bore out the rotors yourself on a drill press! You can also buy the rotors from Silvermine if you'd rather not modify your brake discs!
  11. Silvermine Motors rear disc conversion for sale! This is one of my favorite kits on the market. It's appropriately sized for these cars, and gives you a lot of options for pairing with larger front kits. Comes with two sets of pads, Hawk DTC-30's and Hawk HPS, all the bolts and hardware, discs and obviously the calipers. Discs (Centric blanks) aren't pictured, but they are in good shape, new for this season, and only have 2 events on them. Happy to answer specific questions about part numbers as well. Asking $450 shipped in the continental USA.
  • Create New...