Ben280

Water Pump $20 Summit Line Lock $50 Apply 12v, this will lock the front brakes and make smokey burnouts and staging for drag racing really nice and easy! Mechanical Fuel Pump blockoff plate $15 OEM Alternator bracket and tensioner $20 EMP/Stewart electric water pump $400 Used for testing/fitup, never run on the engine 440cc RX7/Denso injectors $100 8 injectors, 6 rebuilt and cleaned, 2 backup bodies. Recommend cleaning before use! 6 hold-down spacers

Pertronix LS1 Flamethrower Coils with Bracket $175 Bracket goes on the side of the head Includes wiring harness Powermaster GM 1 Wire 140amp Alternator $150 Custom bracket for OEM position Includes belt x3 and tensioner L28 Timing Cover $100 Welded thermostat housing $30 Includes GM water temp sensor Ground Control Spring Perches $50 Perfect for sectioned struts. Includes Koni gland nuts. Koni double adjustable race inserts $300 2 8611-1257 2 8611-1258 Techno Toy Tuning R200 Short Nose Mustache Bar $100

Unloading a ton of good stuff since I am transitioning away from the L series motor. Let me know if there is stuff you need or additional photos you want! All prices include shipping to the lower 48. International shipping is fine but will be extra. OER ITB setup $3500 Vintage 45mm OER ITB bodies Kameri intake Reverie carbon airbox with ITG filter Deatschwerks 550cc injectors with custom -6AN fuel rail and wiring harness vacuum accumulator, ford TPS, GM IAT sensor throttle cable, pulleys, linkage (not pictured) Rebello N42 Head $500 This head was on the car when it suffered a catastrophic oil pump failure. The original camshaft (63DE grind) seized into the towers and is obviously ruined. This includes a cam core, replacement cam towers and oil spray bar and valve cover HD beehive springs, oversized retainers Made 250whp with the ITB's on a 13:1 stock dimensioned bottom end. Jerico bellhousing, lightweight flywheel, Clutchmasters clutch, quartermaster TOB and ARP hardware $350 ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts Arizona Z car 11lbs flywheel Clutchmasters clutch with GM 26 spline center 280zx Gear Reduction Starter $75 remanufactured by Hitachi. Hoke Performance Trigger Kit $400 Includes Performance Products SFI damper and high strength reusable crank bolt. PLX Wideband Controller $80 L28 Solid Mount Kit $100 Solid mount kit with L28 mounting brackets. Could easily swap these back to poly if needed. RT Diff Mount $50 A bit beat up, I re-drilled the upper mount since it didn't seem to fit nicely with my R200. Still works great however. Includes the conical rubber bushing (not pictured) Setrab Thermostatic Sandwich Plate w/-10AN fittings $50 3/4-16 threads

Still having an issue with this @tube80zand @SuperDan. Thanks for taking a look!

The windshield is a super nice touch! Was that a pre-cut piece, or did you have to do the trim?

I used Tefzel in my build, it's phenomenal stuff. Lighter and higher current capacity, but needs special tools for stripping. @clarkspeedlooking very very nice!

Narrator: "He then did it several more times" Looking great Aydin!!

If I were on this forum more often you'd have seen the photo! Sorry for holding out on you. Generally when I see a rulebook say you can have one or the other, it means that both is a solid combo. Looking at some of the big name TA cars out there, they are doing a long "duck bill" or "whale tail" situation. I think laying the spoiler down would help accelerate airflow under the wing, or it might just help reduce drag. Either way, if you have the ability, I say go for it! Talking with the guys who designed my wing, they said roof level was just about perfect. Too much higher and you run into stability issues, with no real performance gain.

Plan is to be there this year at the Ridge event, and MAYBE GTA final. The Ridge event may be a shakedown, but that's fine!

Send cut send is great for just about everything. I've not found anything they aren't good at yet. Here's my wing mount, I use the same mount concept that Jon is talking about, but I go further down and bolt through to the rear chassis rails. Helps to not have a fuel tank, but I think you could make this work. with anything back there. Here's where the mount ends, there are now 2 3/8" bolts here. Shot passing through the floor. Final shape. Rests on the deck lid, but there are also 3 bolts into the hatch lip. I should note, this is NOT SCCA legal, they have a rule about the wing not extending behind the rear of the car. I think that looks stupid, and it means you can't put the wing in the most aerodynamically efficient position. Oh well!

Whelp, classic me, waiting a thousand years and then a massive update. Lets just cut a bunch of heartache, stress and fiddling, and jump to the engine bay basically finished The LS in the Z fits, nothing hugely impressive there, lots of figuring with the dry sump parts tho. This is a corvette fitment pump, and I had to redo the layout of the pump to clear the headers, frame rails and everything else. Did some notching, did some more clearancing, and it JUST squeaks in. Radiator mounts are the same tho, and that's about it. Lots of nutserts in the firewall to make everything work. Now, since y'all like this sort of stuff, here are some shots of building out the engine harness. Mark and I went to extraordinary lengths for this, I think it is pretty incredible. Hats off to that Canadian. Got a bit into this process, and realized that we probably needed a slightly bigger battery than the 440CCA battery tender I've had for a long time. Seemed like a good chance to upgrade, so I went with an Antigravity ATX-20, with 680CCA. This should be enough, there aren't a huge number of electronics in the car, so I think we should be in good shape. Here's the re-configured pump. The mounting tabs needed to move to the rear to push the pump forward. I might need to brace the pump snout, but we'll see. Mounting the dry sump tank was a bit of an endeavour. The fuel tank is in the passenger compartment, and I knew I wanted the tank inside the roll cage structure, as well as inside the wheel base. I found a good spot for it up where the passengers feet used to go, that seemed to be the best spot. I had a bracket cut out, and now it all bolts together quite nicely! The oil tank fill comes in through the cowl panel. It's a little goofy, but I think it's a nice touch. Back to the motor, I opted for a Tilton 7.25" clutch. This is a twin rally disk setup, it should be good for at least 600ft-lbs. I still need to make a clutch pedal stop, otherwise we are gonna send some disks to the moon! Back in the car, the new setup moved the transmission back about an inch from where it was. I cut and re-welded the crossmember I made, pretty straight forward! Finally, in an effort to not leave any part of the car untouched, some suspension I ordered a long time ago showed up. This, along with the electronics, was originally the plan for this car over the winter! funny how things change.... Nice to have a modern serviceable coilover in the car. I'm using S13 fronts and GD Sti rears. I also found my ball joints were unbelievably bent, so got some replacements there. Not sure how they got so bad, I guess running the curbs did them in. Seems to be the wear point, I'll have to keep an eye on that! Finally, we are getting REALLY close to firing the car up. I'm working with Ray from Trial Engineering to get the C125 and PDM to talk with everything else, he's been a huge help. The MOTEC stuff is really really powerful, but you need to know what you are doing, which I don't yet. But we are getting there! Finally, a view from the office. The car is out of the shop for a bit getting a super sweet exhaust installed, way nicer than anything I can make so I felt ok farming this one out. Stay tuned for an update maybe! Going to be selling a bunch of the L series race parts, so keep an eye out for that as well.

Small pre-black friday update. My buddy Mark came to help me out with a lot of the chassis wiring. We got a huge amount done, but there is always more to do it seems. He's gonna come back and do all the pinning for the AS connectors, since they require special tooling that I don't have. Mark shrinking the T on the PDM run Bulkheads for the wires, pretty excited about this. Biggest will be the engine harness, 66 pins, and we are using 62 of them! I also got the frame plated and the engine mocked. Using a reverse mount starter, so I'll need to cut some clearance for that thing, and I MAY need to re-make the Apex Engineered motor mount for the passenger side, depending on the dry sump setup, and how the pump wants to integrate. Really it's time to buy some parts and get this short block put together. Really happy with the motor placement so far. Nice and low and plenty far back. I picked up some CX Racing headers, which I expect to need to modify before final purpose. Ohm said they work well with their kit, but I'm thinking they will hang too low. Ohm also send over some small fabrication parts so I can convert my sub frame from a long nose diff mount to a short nose diff mount! Still on the fence about using the Q45 diff I have or using a 350z/G35 center. I need to do some more gear math, but I'm thinking this will be a bit down the road once everything else is working.

@jhmThe basic tools you mentioned are often more than most bring with them to the track, and they can be super illuminating for issues. I think the iphone vs android debate boils down to which you have. If we are trying to bring folks into the data-sphere, lowering barriers to entry is huge. Having ANYTHING for timing etc, is going to be helpful. If, like Jon is, looking for a new device, I think Android is the better choice, since the two more involved apps I am aware of for this, on will only work in an Android environment. Solostorm is not an inexpensive situation ($220: https://www.petreldata.com/product/solostorm-autocross-data-logger-for-android/) but it is very powerful. Other tools like Harrys Lap Time or Track Addict Pro are good, but do rely on the inherent tools built into the phones. If you have a bluetooth OBD-II scanner and a bluetooth GPS, that will get you much further than most. Since most Z cars don't have OBD-II however... For my rebuild, I looked heavily into a AIM system. The Solo-2 DL is a really good option that doesn't require a lot of adding in, and the AIM telemetry software is really well supported. Ended up going with MOTEC since their system is also really well supported, and a few folks I race with quite a lot also run them so it will be easy to get support and compare notes.

I think you would be really happy with a solostorm setup. My racecapture setup was great for a car running stand alone, you can capture CAN signals with it and pull the data you want out of it. The app itself is fairly friendly too!

Small update. Been traveling a ton for work, so progress is limited to getting parts in the shop. Heads have been dropped at the machine shop, decking them by 0.025", cleaning them up and an inspection, along with fresh springs and Ti retainers. Gotta have a chat with them about which camshaft to use, but I'm leaning towards a BTR stage 3. My Apex Engineered subframe for the swap came in on Monday, and I set about installing it. Prior to my ownership of this car, somebody had crashed it. Drivers side wheel did something wild, and the tension rod went on a skyward adventure. It put a pretty reasonable dent in the frame rail, and pushed the whole thing in about 3/4". nice little dent... With adjustable suspension, it all aligned out, and apart from being a bit unsightly, never posed a problem. Installing the Apex piece tho, it was sitting fairly crooked, and I knew it was time to adjust the frame more or less back to where it came. this is fine, what are you worried about!? I also noticed a small crack on a ripple, inboard of the sub frame mount. It's a fairly old crack, got a little corrosion on the face, so it's not from this bottle jack adventure, but that will require drilling, welding and plating. A good weekend project I think. uhhhhhhhhhh Got the Apex Engineered swap subframe in, and it's within 1/16" square measuring from the firewall, itself a bit sketchy, but it was 1/2" before! Also got the dry sump tank in, and started mocking that into position. I have a buddy with a 4 stage Aviaid dry sump kit he's willing to part with, so I'm picking that up. yay more holes to cut. Getting excited to mock up the motor position, and get some more weight on the front of the car. I'm struggling to get the rear jacks far back enough, the nose is easily lifted by hand at this point!