Ben280

FWIW, I'm running the Wolf Creek R200 Axles on my car and haven't had this issue with them. Thinking it through, since the R200 is wider, you'd be stretching the axles on a R180, not over compressing them. 1.5" difference seems like too much, and leads me to wonder if something else is off with your setup? It might be time to cycle the suspension through its range on each side, and turn the axles to see if you can further isolate the issue.

The axle will be fully extended at full droop. Sounds like your combination of adapters etc just means your axles are too long. Have you verified with Wolf Creek/Futofab that you have the correct lengths for your application? If one side is still in a bind, the problem will persist. I can't remember on the R180's if the driver and passenger side axles are symmetrical or not, might be worth verifying your measurements.

If you are comfortable getting the B series bell housing machined to fit on the C series, the only other modifications you need to make are getting a new driveshaft and crossmember. If you're handy with a welder, the crossmember is a piece of cake, or you can order one from Techno Toy Tuning. Godzilla Race Works also sells conversion driveshafts, but I imagine being in Europe, you'll have an easier time just getting one build over there. I've been running a C series transmission for a while and really enjoyed the improved shifting, particularly after I upgraded the springs in it's shifter housing. Got nice and tight after that. Best of luck, hope you can get the shifting where you like it!

There's no return spring. Much of what you end up feeling in there is the check balls. If you want snappier shifting and have yours apart, just about the only thing you can "adjust" are those springs. That will control how "tight" the shifter feels going into a gear. I've never messed with the internals on the B series so I'm not sure if there's actually any adjustment to be made there. Unfortunately the design of the shifter is vastly different on the FS5W71C. While the tail section is the same bolt pattern and can be easily adapted to a B series bellhousing, the rest of the casting is completely different, and uses a much more modern shifter style. A C series transmission might be what you're after if you want NB2-esque shifting in your Z.

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I keep a youtube with some footage from current and past seasons. Trying to add more data overlays, but your mileage may vary!

I have a full KA/SR trans swap that I'd sell. Trans + shifter, crossmember for the 280z, and driveshaft.

You'll be fine on the frame. There's a lot of suspension arms and sway bar to run into before you hit the body of the car, and even those are tricky to hit. I had wheels in almost the exact same spec (mine were 15x10 4.5"BS and 15x11 5"BS). Only reason it works was I used a quick steer knuckle, bringing the tie-rod closer to the hub and more inboard.

A 15x10 -25 in the front will hit the steering knuckle ball joint. Even a -38 comes close.

Those are Atara racing wheels. Not sure what sizes they make, but you can always send them a message on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/AtaraRacing/ Watanabe wheels do get into the 17's but not the width you are hoping for. You might be better off looking for or building a set of Panasport C8's.

Thanks man! We can only get about 1g of acceleration, (22mph per second), some of our competitors can get close to 1.8!! Could do with a slightly more torquey gear to pull out of corners, but that really hurts top speed. Dang tradeoffs!

Little bit of video from the last event of the season.

Another season done and dusted. Huge improvements in the car, just really figuring out how to wheel this machine! The car ran 10 events with the OR-SCCA and scored in the top 5 (overall) 5 times, and got 3 fast time of the day! Pretty excited to be getting to this level, there's still some optimizing on the car, but a lot of it is just going to be improving the driver! Hoping this off season to complete the switch to e85 and put in a new steering rack. I've already got quick knuckles and the 240z rack, but it's still not quick enough, I'd really like to be at 1.5 turns lock to lock. Steering is pretty limited by tire clearance, so the middle shouldn't be too twitchy. Will be doing some measurements and then calling Woodward.

How have I never seen this build before!! Good lord this is gorgeous. Excited to see what livery design you decide to go with.

https://www.silverminemotors.com/240z-260z-280z-camber-plates-bolt-in-lowering-kit These might do the trick for you, would be easy to make a spacer if you wanted some height back in the nose of the car.