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Everything posted by Ben280

  1. Marugen Shokai http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/ Can also get them from RHDJapan: https://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-works-over-fenders-standard-type-s30-s31.html Designed for a front G nose car, so lots of modifications needed to make em fit a standard car with or without an airdam.
  2. Thanks guys! @clarkspeed Daytona sounds like a real trick with the speed differential. Can you opt for a main shaft that you can just barely get rolling off the line, but allows the top speed? I keep thinking about a Winters style quick change, so I don't have to rebuild a couple of rear ends around my diff. I think my ratios are good for my power, and I just need to modify top speed with final drive. Looking at west coast tracks, I think a top speed in the 150's is ideal. much faster you need tons more power, and a 5 or 6 speed to keep the ratios reasonable.
  3. Exedy OEM on a lightweight flywheel is a great choice, Exedy makes good stuff. ClutchMasters makes a good flywheel for our cars, I'd recommend that as well. You don't need extra clamping force with stock + power levels, so no need to go full stage 6 unsprung whatevers. A Tilton 5.5" would be the next best thing, just because it will reduce rotational mass enormously, but it's at the expense of everything else.
  4. Hey Clark! Sorry not sorry Conversion to 18's was a major project. Gearing isn't fully sorted out yet, it was geared short for autox use, so it's not quite ideal for the track yet. Going to 18's gave me a 25.5" tall tire, from a 23.5" tire, so keeping everything the same has moved my top speed out a bit at the expense of low end grunt. I have a 3.90 rear end and a Jerico 4 speed, so I can get fully nutty with the ratios. I'm considering going back to the 3.54 rear end (need to find one) to get some more top speed, but right now being gear limited to 135mph feels just fine by me!
  5. Congrats on a serious score!!
  6. The other thing you can do to check the ratio, mark a dot on the input spline and a mark on the output flange, and count the rotations. 3.54 or 3.90 would be likely for this diff I think. The finned cover is $$$, nice piece!
  7. With that spindle pin fused in there, I'm not sure! The drums have value to some of the road race guys who can't get nice ones any more, I sold a set a long time ago now for $75. I think T3 is still buying the rear housings, but those have some value as well. Everything else on there I'd classify as useful, but only to a small group of people. The halfshafts are increasingly tough to find, you can probably get $100-$150 out of them. You'll find most people are moving away from these as you are, so we all have the same stuff sitting in our garage cabinets!
  8. Check out Longacre or Joes Racing, they make a lot of good tools for us homegamers to keep tabs on alignment. You can also do string alignments and things with plumb bobs, but I like having the right tool for the job! I will say, having the tools to do alignments at home or at the track is great, and it's pretty helpful to check, but I would recommend taking the car to a shop once or twice a year, to get the thing fully lined up. Particularly when you've done a full suspension rebuild, it's very helpful. They can address things like Caster, CAI, KPI and wheelbase which is very hard to measure
  9. For track width, that rear heim joint and nut are the ones that need to be adjusted off the car. That "toe link" piece is just like a tie rod, and is designed to be adjusted on the car. You'd want to make sure the spindle pins are parallel to each other, and the centerline of the car. That would be neutral toe. For a heim joint, I THINK rule of thumb is 1.5x diameter inserted. So for 1/2" heim, you'd want 3/4" of threads engaged. Your understanding on the camber plate is correct and 2* of camber is a good starting spot. Personally, I'd set track width first and see where that puts
  10. 1) Nope, no bushings, just that bolt and the washers. 2) The washers are there to help adjust the wheel fore/aft in the wheel well, so you can get your strut to be vertical. 3) Track width is adjusted with the "toe link" piece, and that second heim joint. If you want to maximize your track width, adjust the rearward heim with the arms off the car, so you can match the length left to right a bit easier. 4) Totally normal! No need to eliminate the up/down pivoting, it helps in the event of binding from not getting the strut dead perpendicular to where the bo
  11. I've used Innovative, AEM and PLX, and found PLX to be the easiest to use. AEM might be better for you since you'll be relying on a gauge (PLX integrated really well with my ECU). Didn't care for Innovative at all.
  12. 1 is better than none! I'm only using one on my car, but with the ITB's I'd have to go fully nutty if I wanted to tune per cylinder. Paying special attention to keeping the carbs synched up on airflow will pay dividends for you on this. One thing to remember about AFR gauges too, they measure the combustion gasses. So, if you're running very very rich, with a lot of unburnt fuel, it will read on the gauge as lean, which leads you to add more and more fuel with no change on the gauge. Ask how I know, haha!
  13. If you are going to use this for race time troubleshooting, I'd think about running 2, one for each carb. One main one will certainly be an upshot, but two would give you some really good insight into how each carb is behaving. Personally, I like PLX widebands.
  14. Agree on the "Works" style flares, that's what I'm using, on my car. HOWEVER!!! They are designed for a short style tire, not modern 24.5/25.5", you will have trouble fitting the diameter, even if the width isn't a problem. I know I am! Streeter should be able to order you the Works style fenders. These also won't work without modification on the front of a standard car, they are designed to be paired with the G-nose front end.
  15. It would be helpful certainly, but I think in general, Apex and Techno (to name a few) aren't making parts which require that level of explanation. Quick steer knuckles, adjustable sway bars and RCA blocks are about as intense as anyone has gone until Apex started doing their subframes, allowing for roll center adjustment. Otherwise, listing a spec as "Up to 4* more camber over stock" or "3" wider front track than stock" or "Stronger!" are just, to my mind, stating the obvious. As a counterpoint, GKTech who makes a huge variety of drop knuckles and extremely modified components do
  16. Wideband sensors have a heater circuit in them, so you don't want to ground that to the same point as other sensors. I don't think Innovative makes a distinction here with their grounds, so you are likely seeing the heater circuit influencing your TPS. If you're grounding all the sensors and MS pin 7 to the block, you've got other problems tho. The sensors should only ground to pin 7, and nowhere else. These sensors aren't necessarily "grounds" in the way we think of them for power circuits, they end up being more of a 0 reference voltage signal.
  17. A rules change meant that I needed to assess how I store fuel in the car. I’d built a custom fuel cell a few years ago which fit in the space under the cage, behind where the passenger seat normally goes. The SCCA decided to change the rules to require alternate fuel tanks to be SFI/FIA certified bladder in shell style with foam. 3/3 on things my existing fuel tank didn’t have. Luckily Radium Engineering makes some excellent small fuel tanks, that check all the boxes. I opted for one with their in tank surge tank setup installed, so I wouldn’t have to worry about running low on fuel. A likely
  18. Ok, finally have time to give y'all a long form update with some photos! Obligatory "go give my instagram a look if you want more frequent updates" since the semi-annual updates might not be enough for some folks here! The big goal this year was to get the car to work well on 18” wheels. Running slicks that work for one session only is a frustrating way to spend the weekends, and since all the hot tires come in a 315/30r18 for modern cars, that seemed like the obvious choice. While it seems like an easy enough conversion, things quickly spiraled out of control! 18x12 medium offset
  19. You mean the posts living happily over in the "Apex 8.8 Subframe Review" thread locked by our dear friend Tube80z?
  20. https://www.instagram.com/p/CJ__dlgsZD6/ What would you like to know? I'm running their rear subframe, front control arms with tension rods and rear control arms. Lots of other custom parts too, but I might have some info you're looking for!
  21. Send them a note, they are usually pretty happy to do degrees of custom work. I asked about getting my subframe not powder-coated so I could custom weld on some mounts, to which Ohm responded "Well what do you want, we can probably make that happen for you".
  22. It depends where you look, this site certainly seems to collect frustrated experiences with Z vendors far and wide. I've got a version of their R200 kit custom built with long nose rear diff mounts, and it was a much better install experience compared to my old T3 mustache bar, which required ratchet strapping the mounting bolts in the car together. T3 did have an excellent post recently about the issues they've been having with their lead times and supply chain. COVID has really messed up a lot of stuff, and the car market in particular has been hit extremely hard. S
  23. Ex parts counter guy chiming in. COVID has made most automotive shops beyond busy. When I left my shop job, mechanical work was booked out a month, parts were backordered, dyno appointments were almost 3 months out, and the phones were ringing off the hook. All these operations are small, even the ones that seem big are likely only 4-5 people. All these shops are trying, but I suspect demand has them absolutely buried right now. Techno Toy Tuning has been very vocal about their delays. As for phones, if you're a small operation and you have the choice between answerin
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