Ben280

Updated ITB price! It's build season, who wants em!

Oh my! Those brake kits are both amazing, I have a soft spot for the radial mount one though.

As a side note, if anyone wants to support myself and the car, check out this sticker pack from my BFF Jake at Aerowolf https://www.aerowolfusa.com/products/team-stickerpack

PRE uses a Dynojet. Can't remember if those are supposed to read high or low, but it's a good metric if you always use the same one! I'd have liked a bit more power, but I think ~400hp is more than enough to get into trouble. (clearly!) So far the repairs are minor, and the trick has been sourcing panels. A PNW local reached out and had a set of fenders and headlight buckets he sold me for a song, and I'm taking a trek up north on Saturday to pick up a new hood. I think the airdam is mostly savable, but the old headlight covers and flares are toast. Working to get a new set of flares from Japan, and another instagram follower was super kind and sent me some replacement headlight covers! Planning to have the car back out August 19/20 at ORP. We'll have some crazy mis-matched body work and a plywood splitter, but I think we should be in decent shape for continuing to shake the car down!

Ok, mini report! We made it to Global Time Attack!! It was super close, and looking doubtful at some points, but we did it. PRE Racing here in Portland was great and they really pushed to get the tune finalized before heading out. I'm still having issues with the idle, but we think that's the Megasquirts fault. The Idle motor is also probably a piece of junk, but we're leaving it alone for now. Official dyno numbers came in at 395hp/385tq. Not too shabby, but we aren't taking the timing at high RPM that we would expect. I think a ECU refresh is in the cards, but for now we have a safe tune and she RIPS. Fully loaded we are at 2500 with driver. GTA was shaping up to be a shakedown weekend. I knew there would be teething pains, things needed to be reviewed and I was pretty rusty from a year away. First session out the plan was to go out, make a couple hot laps, see how everything felt and then come in and check everything over. The car wanted to get after it! This thing is a rocketship on the straights now, i might need to swap the gears around again to make sure I have the legs! Second session was a similar plan, go out, make sure everything felt ok and then come in. I decided to lean on it a little bit and see what was what. The grip on these tires (Continental ECF) weren't spectacular, but they were solid. I think they need a full and proper heat cycle to get good. I noticed a little bit of locking into T8, which was weird because I have ABS, but didn't think much of it. In retrospect, this was a big mistake. I was able to improve, 1:52.3. 2 seconds slower than my fastest time last year, but really poor driving. I'm carrying so much more speed into the corners, and not fully trusting the car yet, it's challenging to go really fast, but going deep into the 40's at this track is certianly on the cards now. A lunch break and we jacked the car up, checked over some suspect oil leaks, moved a oil line off the header and started to make a plan of what to check over at the end of the day. First semi push lap out and a major lockup over a bump sent me head on into a tire wall. The car looks worse than it really is. The car doesn't pull, frame is still as straight as it was before this, (which is to say still a little kinked) and everything still works! No leaks or anything, which is great. Bad news is all the sheet metal is toast and the very fancy splitter took a mega hit into the wall and is a write off. Definitely a bummer, put an end to the weekend, but the car is making a quick resurgence. A lot of folks have reached out to me and offered parts. Last thing to sort out is the splitter, and I need to make a handful of parts, but overall we are looking to be in really good shape for another event in a few weeks! Onward and upward my friends.

Looking good! When choosing an ECU, I would ask your tuner what they prefer and buy that. Make sure it is compatible with all your bits and bobs. Haltech for example is notorious for keeping their CAN stuff difficult to access, similar to AIM. Tuners can work on just about anything, but what they can do and what they like to do are often different. I saved my megasquirt for the V8 conversion, but I would have been better off buying a Link or a Haltech, purefly from an ease of tuning perspective. Megasquirt idle control is finnikey at best!

Very nice!! Looking A+ flakey

Have any photos of the mustache bar misadventure? Seems odd that T3 would switch to bolts, when a stud is just a backwards bolt! Studs in the diff also REALLY help when mounting the diff by your lonesome. Excited to see some photos of the car out and about!

Instagram is @brokenjawracing (check the link in the sig of the post!) My fab buddy got real stoked about the muffler placement, I'm pretty stoked on it!

Small update, the car is back from my buddy getting the exhaust done, so that's great! pretty stoked how it turned out. We are using spintech mufflers, and going for the IMSA/Cup car dual center exit, while keeping things as tucked as possible. I opted for ovalized tube under the diff, really hope this gets me the clearance I want/need. . Tires also showed up! I need a seat time tire that won't kill me or break the bank. I went with the Conti Extreme Contact Force with is a 200 treadwear tire, but is endurance focused. From what my track friends tell me, it should wear like iron, and be pretty reasonable pace wise. I'm hoping to get about a season and a half out of them. I got 315/30r18 in the rear and 295/30r18 in the front. Planning to narrow up the front wheels at some point, but with the LS, there is way less weight on the front of the car to help warm stuff up. Lots of people who I've talked with say that going smaller tire up front has been real beneficial, so we'll see. Planning to set the car up for these sizes which will let me switch out easily for the Yokohama a052 or the Hoosier A7 in the same sizes.

I have a camshaft and towers that were in my stock of spares that I am including with the head. The towers and camshaft that were in the car when the pump failed are obviously garbage, and are currently on my wall as offerings to the gods of speed. The head casting itself appears to be in good shape. I would recommend you take it to a shop to have it dimensioned and checked over and generally cleaned up. Let me know if you are interested, I'm happy to provide additional pictures or dimensions if you would like!

Looking VERY good! I've been following along on Instagram, glad to see an update here too.

For what it's worth, Jonathan Lugod (Shaftworks) does all the rebuilding/revalving for just about every high end shock available, and has been a household name in SCCA circles for a long time now. If you have a OS Giken product, you've probably talked with him, he was OSG USA for a number of years. I will be using his struts on this version of the car and will report in when I get the car on track!

Summit Line Lock $50 Apply 12v, this will lock the front brakes and make smokey burnouts and staging for drag racing really nice and easy! OEM Alternator bracket and tensioner $20 EMP/Stewart electric water pump $400 Used for testing/fitup, never run on the engine

Powermaster GM 1 Wire 140amp Alternator $150 Custom bracket for OEM position Includes belt x3 and tensioner L28 Timing Cover $100 Welded thermostat housing $30 Includes GM water temp sensor Techno Toy Tuning R200 Short Nose Mustache Bar $100

Unloading a ton of good stuff since I am transitioning away from the L series motor. Let me know if there is stuff you need or additional photos you want! All prices include shipping to the lower 48. International shipping is fine but will be extra. OER ITB setup $35003000 Vintage 45mm OER ITB bodies Kameri intake Reverie carbon airbox with ITG filter Deatschwerks 550cc injectors with custom -6AN fuel rail and wiring harness vacuum accumulator, ford TPS, GM IAT sensor throttle cable, pulleys, linkage (not pictured) PLX Wideband Controller $80 RT Diff Mount $50 A bit beat up, I re-drilled the upper mount since it didn't seem to fit nicely with my R200. Still works great however. Includes the conical rubber bushing (not pictured)

Still having an issue with this @tube80zand @SuperDan. Thanks for taking a look!

The windshield is a super nice touch! Was that a pre-cut piece, or did you have to do the trim?

I used Tefzel in my build, it's phenomenal stuff. Lighter and higher current capacity, but needs special tools for stripping. @clarkspeedlooking very very nice!

Narrator: "He then did it several more times" Looking great Aydin!!

If I were on this forum more often you'd have seen the photo! Sorry for holding out on you. Generally when I see a rulebook say you can have one or the other, it means that both is a solid combo. Looking at some of the big name TA cars out there, they are doing a long "duck bill" or "whale tail" situation. I think laying the spoiler down would help accelerate airflow under the wing, or it might just help reduce drag. Either way, if you have the ability, I say go for it! Talking with the guys who designed my wing, they said roof level was just about perfect. Too much higher and you run into stability issues, with no real performance gain.

Plan is to be there this year at the Ridge event, and MAYBE GTA final. The Ridge event may be a shakedown, but that's fine!

Send cut send is great for just about everything. I've not found anything they aren't good at yet. Here's my wing mount, I use the same mount concept that Jon is talking about, but I go further down and bolt through to the rear chassis rails. Helps to not have a fuel tank, but I think you could make this work. with anything back there. Here's where the mount ends, there are now 2 3/8" bolts here. Shot passing through the floor. Final shape. Rests on the deck lid, but there are also 3 bolts into the hatch lip. I should note, this is NOT SCCA legal, they have a rule about the wing not extending behind the rear of the car. I think that looks stupid, and it means you can't put the wing in the most aerodynamically efficient position. Oh well!

Whelp, classic me, waiting a thousand years and then a massive update. Lets just cut a bunch of heartache, stress and fiddling, and jump to the engine bay basically finished The LS in the Z fits, nothing hugely impressive there, lots of figuring with the dry sump parts tho. This is a corvette fitment pump, and I had to redo the layout of the pump to clear the headers, frame rails and everything else. Did some notching, did some more clearancing, and it JUST squeaks in. Radiator mounts are the same tho, and that's about it. Lots of nutserts in the firewall to make everything work. Now, since y'all like this sort of stuff, here are some shots of building out the engine harness. Mark and I went to extraordinary lengths for this, I think it is pretty incredible. Hats off to that Canadian. Got a bit into this process, and realized that we probably needed a slightly bigger battery than the 440CCA battery tender I've had for a long time. Seemed like a good chance to upgrade, so I went with an Antigravity ATX-20, with 680CCA. This should be enough, there aren't a huge number of electronics in the car, so I think we should be in good shape. Here's the re-configured pump. The mounting tabs needed to move to the rear to push the pump forward. I might need to brace the pump snout, but we'll see. Mounting the dry sump tank was a bit of an endeavour. The fuel tank is in the passenger compartment, and I knew I wanted the tank inside the roll cage structure, as well as inside the wheel base. I found a good spot for it up where the passengers feet used to go, that seemed to be the best spot. I had a bracket cut out, and now it all bolts together quite nicely! The oil tank fill comes in through the cowl panel. It's a little goofy, but I think it's a nice touch. Back to the motor, I opted for a Tilton 7.25" clutch. This is a twin rally disk setup, it should be good for at least 600ft-lbs. I still need to make a clutch pedal stop, otherwise we are gonna send some disks to the moon! Back in the car, the new setup moved the transmission back about an inch from where it was. I cut and re-welded the crossmember I made, pretty straight forward! Finally, in an effort to not leave any part of the car untouched, some suspension I ordered a long time ago showed up. This, along with the electronics, was originally the plan for this car over the winter! funny how things change.... Nice to have a modern serviceable coilover in the car. I'm using S13 fronts and GD Sti rears. I also found my ball joints were unbelievably bent, so got some replacements there. Not sure how they got so bad, I guess running the curbs did them in. Seems to be the wear point, I'll have to keep an eye on that! Finally, we are getting REALLY close to firing the car up. I'm working with Ray from Trial Engineering to get the C125 and PDM to talk with everything else, he's been a huge help. The MOTEC stuff is really really powerful, but you need to know what you are doing, which I don't yet. But we are getting there! Finally, a view from the office. The car is out of the shop for a bit getting a super sweet exhaust installed, way nicer than anything I can make so I felt ok farming this one out. Stay tuned for an update maybe! Going to be selling a bunch of the L series race parts, so keep an eye out for that as well.

Small pre-black friday update. My buddy Mark came to help me out with a lot of the chassis wiring. We got a huge amount done, but there is always more to do it seems. He's gonna come back and do all the pinning for the AS connectors, since they require special tooling that I don't have. Mark shrinking the T on the PDM run Bulkheads for the wires, pretty excited about this. Biggest will be the engine harness, 66 pins, and we are using 62 of them! I also got the frame plated and the engine mocked. Using a reverse mount starter, so I'll need to cut some clearance for that thing, and I MAY need to re-make the Apex Engineered motor mount for the passenger side, depending on the dry sump setup, and how the pump wants to integrate. Really it's time to buy some parts and get this short block put together. Really happy with the motor placement so far. Nice and low and plenty far back. I picked up some CX Racing headers, which I expect to need to modify before final purpose. Ohm said they work well with their kit, but I'm thinking they will hang too low. Ohm also send over some small fabrication parts so I can convert my sub frame from a long nose diff mount to a short nose diff mount! Still on the fence about using the Q45 diff I have or using a 350z/G35 center. I need to do some more gear math, but I'm thinking this will be a bit down the road once everything else is working.