FLC

Yes the fiber glass is supper strong no worries on cracking these things.

The reason i went with carb, is because really the only thing i had to buy was the carb the intake and all the other stufff came with the car when i bought plus it keeps with the nostalgia kinda.

The install was pretty straight forward and almost anybody can do it Tools; combination wrench set socket set allen wrenches flat head screw driver dykes Tear Down First i removed the fuel lines from the mechanical pump then unbolted the hard metal lines from the cyl head next i unplugged the distributor vacuum advance then the brake booster hose from the intake manifold. Next plug your radiator lines going through the intake manifold the classiest way is to remove the whole line and replace it with one line that runs from the front all the way to your heater core and then put a plug in your thermostat housing or the later model z's may not have the port at all so you could replace it with one of those not sure on that though. Gently remove the entire throttle linkage set up be especialy careful with the cap attached to the gas pedal because this will be reinstalled if you choose to route the new throttle cable the same way i did. for removal, finally remove all the nuts holding the intake and exhaust manifold on. Build Up First install a new intake manifold gasket if yours has't been replaced in a while or you think you will have a problem with the old one sealing. this part may be a pain if you leave the rest of your exhaust attached but definitely doable. next bolt your exhaust manifold up using the nuts that aren't integral to the new intake manifold then bolt on your new manifold and tighten everything down but not so tight to strip out your cyl head or break a ear off your new intake. if it leaks you can always re tighten it. Next bolt the carb adapter with gasket this adapter requires special bolts with an allen head that i didnt get, easily found at home depot not advanced, orielys etc. also being careful not to strip out the new manifold. Next comes the new 390cfm 4bbl carb. this bolts down with special studs you can buy from any parts store for >$6. next install your new gas line vacuum advanced on the side above the fuel bowl and brake booster line to the rear of the carb and plug of the remaining hole on the bottom front. Next wire in the red positive choke wire to any positive that comes on with the the key. Not the coil wire cause that drops to 6v after engine is started. You may have to pour some gas in the carb to get it started until the float bowls are full. once running and warmed up you can adjust the carb per holleys instructions. On mine which has an l28 i had to lower the idle significantly. Finally for the throttle cable mine isn't fancy but looks decent is functional and you dont have to drill out your gas pedal. Install the ball joint supplied with the cable kit on to the carb snap the corresponding end with the compression screw to hold the line. remove the snap cap from the original linkage that fits the threaded end of the new throttle cable thread on. snap the cap onto the gas pedal thread the cable through the original whole in the fire wall all the way untill it looks like it sets entirely in the fitting cut the line to proper length pseudo install the line to make sure it's correct next repeat the process with the cables sheath and assemble the piece. install new air cleaner assy. Viola (Note: make sure gas pedal moves the same distance carb throttle does before making lines if not you may have to shim gas pedal) (Note: only one plastic snap kit threads on the new cable end) (Note: choke wire your on your own i left mine off since its summer but probably the engine light wire will suffice) (Warning: i'm writing this from memory, with no instruction to start, and missing pieces so i may not be %100 correct) I think the kit comes from Motorsports auto and cost close to $900 but plan on a little more for un for seen expenses. My opinion of this set up, Get It! especially if your already having carb troubles and have a whole to burn in your pocket.

My latest mod not that any one cares but, I removed the carbs that i initially stole from my other 240z and put a Holley 4bbl with a Cliford intake manifold on. I'm surprised it worked with the header that's on there now. This thing runs super smooth at idle and pulls like theres no tomorrow i spent about $500 total getting it going i bought a brand new carb from Summit for $415, ordered it on wednesday at 1:30 and it came in the mail on thursday Wow! the other cost came from fuel lines and fittings for my holley fuel pump and regulator that i eventually didn't use. I'll get to the fuel pump later though.

This one is already suppose to be sold and if so it's getting the ls treatment per owners request. if he doesn't want to buy it i'm going to keep the 280 motor and put a 4bbl on it with a little shot of n2o.

Haven't got my car weighed yet, but I did start making molds for the interior. Hopefully theres a demand for replacement pieces. I'm probably going to offer a few different types; leather, vinyl, bare, painted,or carbon fiber. I'll post a few up on Ebay see how it goes.

So yesterday I got the windows greased, doors adjusted, locks and latches lubricated and in good working order, and found out the door handle is broke so I need a new one of those. Joy! get to spend money on non crucial items. Pretty easy day. I think im going to take it to a shop today or next week and have it counter weighed. And take pictures of the weights so everyone on here can get a 100% no b/s weight of a bone stock 240z.

It depends, most of them have been sitting in fields for over 10yrs. and all but rotted away. So you can get those pretty cheap $500 range. And othes I've seen on craigslist want a ridiculous amount of money for a neah dd. because the owners seen one on Ebay for like 30g and thought oowe we gon sell the z become millioaires wes can ford to move out the trailer Yeehaw! Needless to say they never sell and end up in a field rotting as well lol.

Today on my list if it doesn't rain, fix the passenger side outer door handle (doors not open), adjust the door latch, disassemble the door and grease window track for smooth operation, and a general lubrication of all moving door components then reassemble. Not necessarily in that order lol.

I bought a 73 240z a few months ago and now that its warm outside i'm going to start working on it. About the car; it has a n42 l28 motor with a header and full exhaust I also have two round top carbs I stole off my other 240 to get it running so I could drive it home after I bought it. The car also came with a new 4bbl intake never installed but don't think i'm going to use it. Some sort of fancy ignition box I removed. Things I've done so far; new coil, cap, rotor, wires, brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and some tlc. The car had quit working in 2009 and has been sitting inside since. The body has minimal rust a little in the battery box and maybe a fuzz towards the rear of the floor pans. Overall I would have to give it a 9 out of 10. The body does have some damage where you can tell its been in an accident the rear roll pan is rolled a little bit and the hood is rolled a little. I don't know what I have planned for it yet but i'm going to log my progress and answer any diy'ers question while i'm here if I can.

It's too late now but i think the weak link was the mustache bar and uprights not the axles, the flexing from the oem components would of caused twist in the algnment of your drivetain causing a break probably consistant with the breaks your having. imagine putting a stick between your legs and pulling the end of it untill it breaks. Anyway good project and nice build i plan on doing the cobra irs swap in mine as well. also another note to consider: the angles in which your axleshaft normally reside should match that of which the vehical you pulled them off of ie the for and aft geometry. another anology the way the rear end and the transmission have to be the same angle.

more fabrication less talking i want results lol

black dragon automotive $80 for z $50 for zx less shipping pt#80-722

No succsess, I could not find anything using google or bing search regarding z car other than an intresting epa article stating the air dam is aerodynamicly sound and lowers the mpg. did find 75-78 kamei air dam on ebay but looks completly different so i now have my suspensions as to this air dam being a Kamei, but not throwing it out just yet will you please send the links where you seen it. thanks I also resized the pics for everybody

I really appreciate the info I new it was pretty rare now that I know the name of it I can do some searching on it if I still can't find it I may ask for the links but shouldn't be necessary I think I may buy several of them for hoarding purposes lo,l what do you think of the style.

I just checked it out and you have to wait for it to completly load then it snaps back to a reasonable size. (its not an msa type 1 fyi i know the difference between the 2) thanks