GT72Datsun

Thanks, Ryan. The white original 510 that was pulled out of a storage container is coming along. Mechanically it acts like the original 50k mile car it is. Over the last few weeks, I have been daily driving it and working out some simple switch and relay issues. i.e. all the worn out wires are getting replace one by one.....They only thing left on the list now is to buff and wax it. If you want to track your car the FIRM in Starke/Keystone Heights is a good day trip. We have tested out there a few times now, and both times it is pretty much been our own track. If you want to take you car out, let me know maybe i will take the Turbo Tom's car out and stretch it's legs. See the attached image of the yellow "red farmer" 510 a few weeks ago. We are taking the yellow 510 and red 240 down to sebring to run the long course with the VDCA group over labor day weekend. So we have been busy prepping both cars which is why the most reliable, my turbo tom's car, does not get any attention right now. How is the FI upgrade going. Did you figure out how to convert the manifold to o-ring injectors.

I am have been messing with my Turbo Tom's 3L 240z for 7 years now. The car is reliable and I used to use it for drivers ed. trackdays. Now i just drive around town when there is no rain. I went to drive it yesterday and decided since it has been so long i should check the water injection system before I give it some boost. I took a video to show how I calibrate the mechanical water injection. I was trained on this by the previous owner when i bought the car. He had been shown by Turbo Tom how to do this. The car came with about 10 beat AN check valve fittings that no longer seated. I re-built after about 2 months of owning the car with an o-ring sealing setup... If anyone has any questions on these setups let me know. With the correct setup, these carb'ed setups are unbelievable. http://youtu.be/wrmEeJCmdRg

Congrats on the the best import award, Ryan. There were a bunch of nice imports out there and it was nice to see a Datsun get some respect. See you around town.

Search for texis300's "new toy" post. I tried to put a link below. I put a turbo tom's plumbing diagram up when texis300 was getting his setup sorted, see attachment. PM me if you want to talk details/setup. i have my turbo tom's set up dialed in my '71 240z. My link

I have a square port header that I had on a track car with twice pipes that I am no longer using. There are some pictures in the linked photo bucket account that show it clearing the steering and the comp oil pan. We switched to this header after I had already dimpled the comp oil pan on the header side to clear my MSA header. I can box up the header and collector flanges then you could have an exhaust shop fab what you need for you application. $150 plus shipping. Pm me if interested. http://s764.photobucket.com/albums/xx289/gt72datsun/zed/

Glad to hear you got it running again. Curious to see if the dyno results change and the resulting air fuel ratios. Once you have good a/f ratios at cruise and under boost, keep playing with the water injection start pressure and timing advance/return to fight and pinging. If i ever put my wideband back in my turbo tom's car i will take a video of some pulls. Enjoy driving it!

For those interested this did work out. The steel 1 mm thick spacer was put on the block side with copper coat, then a felpro on the cylinder head side. Torqued the head then re-torqued after a heat cycle to seat the rings. This added the extra clearance we were looking for and did not blow out during the first DE trackday on the rebuild.

I will help you out with the carb setup. You should have my contact info in your email or PM me and we can get on the phone. I dont recall if you have vac or mechanical secondaries on the holley. Also, Do you know what your size you have in the primaries? and secondaries? My setup is mechanical secondaries (i dont remember the cam color right now) with 70 in the primaries and 80's in the secondaries. I have a 6.5 high flow power valve and my straight water comes on at 6.5 psi (full flow by 7.5 psi) in the stock turbotom's carb base location. I modified the pressure relief value setup to use a brass and o-ring seal between the water tank and the original turbotom's an pressure relief fitting since the AN fitting tom had would not always seal. I can give you all the specs for the water system, but it has been reliable since i added it to the car in 07. I have readings in the 13's on the wideband cruising on primaries and have 12.5 A/F under 12-15 lbs of boost. My setup will probably be rich on your car since i have a 3 liter with a p90 head. I spent the first 2-3 years i had the car getting it dialed so i am sure we can get yours close. FI will ultimately make you more power, but the original system does work....i drive my daughter to daycare in it and also can run driver ed events. As far as power goes i am have not dyno'ed mine, but i know that at 12 lbs it pulls hard! The previous owner would run 20 psi on race fuel and claimed 400 hp at the wheels without the NOS. I belive it since he and Tom were close friends and tom did all the work on the car until i bought it. I know it will walk away from a cayman s in 3 and 4th gears. It is also much quicker than my track car that is a 2200 lb (330 lbs lighter than my turbo car) 280z with somewhere around 200 hp at the wheels (.040 l28 with 13:1 compression E88 head). If you are serious about FI I also have some FI turbotom's parts that came with my car when i bought it as well as the non-EGR FI setup off a '76 as a starting intake. Did Geez convert his over recently? If I can help you out just let me know. Best wishes with to you and your expanding family

Ok i have not put pictures/attachments up in a while but will try. I do not have the full diagram in electronic formation (i attached one i found in .pdf), but I will attempt to explain. Run your boost pressure to the top of the tank as it should be now. Out the bottom of the tank I ran a fuel line to a vw fuel filter (purolator p/n F21124). From the vw filter you run through some adapters (see mcmaster invoice for p/n's) and into a o-ring seated check valve (mcmaster carr p/n 48935K35). The outlet of the mcmaster check valve needs to have 1/4 pipe threads added and then you run a pipe to -4 AN fitting (note AN = 37 degree flare). From that fitting you run into the original turbotom's an check value that should have been modified by adding a jet. REMOVE THE GUTS of the TurboTom's check valve!! I have a short fuel line that puts the jet pointing right under the base of the carb. Tune it to the pressure you want with the air compressor adapter. I did it all out of the car, then reinstalled the tank and everything. About $50 worth of parts and it has surprise me in the reliability. I built 2 in august of 07 and I still have the original one in the car. I check it every time i change the oil and the only reason i have touched the check valve is to the lower the pressure the water comes on, from 8 to 7 psi, when Florida got 10% ethanol in 93 pump. I heard some pinging in 3rd gear 12 psi pulls and the 1 psi of water eliminated the pinging. Here is a photobucket album with pictures. And since we don't have inter-coolers anything help. You loose your vin number, but see the images of my cowl induction. Let me know if you plan to try it or if you have any questions. pictures Boost_vac diagram Rev 3.pdf

Good to hear that you got it running. I have a couple of ideas on the pinging under low boost. First watch your timing, and confirm that is does not get too advanced. Especially since you will be reinstalling the distributor drive and putting a timing light on it anyway. You may need to compromise the off boost running by retarding the timing to the point it does not ping. Unless your MSD can retard the timing as boost builds. My Electromotive does 1 degree retard per pound of boost. That leaves me at around 15 degrees advance at 15 pounds of boost. If you have the same jets in the carb as the previous owner i would start with the timing retarded to the point where it just starts and do some pulls advancing the timing until you hear a knock. This is the same process i use on my high compression N/A motors when running pump 93. FYI compression vs. boost tables show that 5 psi is about equivalent to an increase of 2 in your compression ratio (i.e. if you are at 8:1 then you go to about 10:1 at 5 psi). Are you still running avgas? Second for the water injection. You can use an air compressor to pressurize the water tank and check the water flow at any boost pressure. To build the air supply to the water tank, which represents the boost made in your manifold: I have a 0-30 psi gauge on an adjustable regulator that plugs into my air compressor. The regulator output is plumbed with the same -6 an fitting as the top of my water tank. Before a track day or when i know i am going to run boost for a while i purge the system of air and check the open and close pressures. I pull the water injection port from under the carb and place it in a clear bottle. I then slowly increase the regulator output until a water drip occurs (for me this is about 7 psi). I then slowly increase the pressure until full flow occurs (for me this is 8 psi). Adjust the spring in the pressure valve until you get the opening pressures you want. You now just simulated the boost control of the water injection system and did not put your pistons or head gasket at risk. I usually repeat the pressure increases and decreases until i am comfortable with the repeatability. FYI, the pressure relief valve that was originally on my car was and aluminum on aluminum seat that did not repeat at all. It actually would leak water into the carb and then the block. I rebuilt the system after my oil looked like i blew a head gasket. After i realized the tank leaked all the water into the motor i spent some time sourcing parts. 4 years on the new relief valve and it still repeats. If you are interested, I can dig up the plumbing diagram and parts list i used. Good luck and keep with it and let me know if you have any questions or what to talk through anything. Hopefully you will have it all sorted by the time your the time your newest edition arrives.

Need one non-stock valve spring retainer. Please see attached picture and let me know if you have one or know where I can get one. Thanks

GeeZ, did you do the FI/megasquirt conversion yourself? How does it compare? I am putting toegther the parts now and a long block to megasquirt (another car) using the Turbo Tom's FI parts I have.

I take it you just picked up the TT kit and are installing. There are a few guys out there now running turbo Tom's kits and they all chimed into the thread below. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117481 1) Not sure why the two head gaskets. Oringed head should seal, do some searches to see about sealing with boost levels. Extra gasket could be for valve clearance or less compression? 2) I use an Electromotive crankfired with boost retard. I am not sure how much timing the other TT guys run, but I know one of them runs race fuel only. I have around 25 degrees advance at 6000 rpm with 15 degrees retard at 15 psi boost. i.e. full pull to 15 psi at 6000 rpm is only around 10 degrees advanced. Yes this is conservative, no intercooler makes me that way. 3) I have the Water injection coming in around 8-9 psi. Again i am not sure what the other tt guys have the water commng in at, but If you wait until 14 psi for the water you will likely melt something. 4) I have a wet NOS system and have never used it. Ultimately fuel injection is more reliable, powerful, efficient...etc, plenty of people will be quick to point this out. Draw throughs are obsolete today, however turbo tom's kit was the early days of aftermarket turbo charging and was very well thought out. I like the nostalgia of the kit and will leave it on my car.

Sounds good. It is a little bit camier than mine. Is it still 2.4 or punched out/swapped? I have a racer brown cam and 3.0L. Keep the videos coming, you might want to register it before you draw too much attention. I keep the boost below 15, but play around 12-14. Be sure the water injection is reliable, especially if you boost for long time periods and build a lot of heat in the intake. I completely rebuilt mine. My best jetting is richer than I would like on the primarys (77's), but that is only because I can not keep the secondarys (96's) open long enough. Out of curiosity where are you guys with your jets?

So Texis, for future reference on my part, what was the carb issue and/or the adjustments Davinci made. What displacement is your's? I am also curious about you other turbo tom guys about the power coming on and challenging the tires for grip. I have 225's in the rear and a r200 torsen (~3.5 by my calculations) Cant boost in 1st, 2nd spins around 4000, but 3rd is solid. When I got the thing I was thinking it would be extremely tail happy (i.e. toast the tires at will) but it does not seem that bad if you are smooth. What about you guys? As another side note, I found a really cool wideband o2, knock, dyno, and datalogger. For the non ecu guys. So far I plan to get it and add some sensors so I can use the dyno function. http://www.plxdevices.com/R-500_productinfo.htm