NewZMan

Here you go...order this, it helped with my conversion! http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

I got my 280ZX from a city auction - $150.00 - Nearly $10,000 in the V8 swap with body kit and I still have to repaint her!

Here's a link to what I used for my install. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70244/

Nobody???

Very Nice Job!!!

I have searched and searched with no success. Either it hasn't been done, or there just isn't a write-up for it but I have installed the complete system from a 96 Nissan Maxima into my 280ZX. My problem is with the wiring. It should be pretty straight forward, but apparently I am missing something. I have the auto amp., which is a small computer that goes with the system and I grabbed the ECU from the donor car. Wired it up as per the FSM and nothing. The display will not come on no matter what I do. I even have three extra display units and none will power up. If someone else has accomplished this could you offer a little insight for my project? It's driving me crazy cause I know it has to be something simple. Thanks in advance!

Any update on the install?

Wanted to post some pics of my swap so far. I began the engine rebuild about a month ago and today I stuck the motor in. I used the JTR kit and radiator; it went in without a hitch. The motor is a 350 bored .60 over and vortec heads. 600 CFM Summit carb and intake with a Summit Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/282, Lift .442/.465. It has a 700R4 auto, just need the drive shaft built. Sanders Headers JTR Mounting Kit - Good Stuff in my opinion! Transmission tunnel mods and new bracket installed All together ready to go in! Tilting her in real easy like. All in and tightened down. The JTR kit really made the install go smooth. I had the motor in the car in about an hour and a half. Now its just putting the rest of the stuff back where it goes. I'll add more pics as it progresses.

It was a tuning issue. I've got it dialed in much better, with a nice smooth idle and smooth throttle response at idle. I changed out my wiring to shielded cable and things seem to be much better as far a noise goes. No resets. Next will be a test run and logging. Wish me luck!

Thanks I'll try that in the morning and see what happens.

It seems to be advancing. I compared what was showing on MegaTune with a timing light and they appear to match. The idle is solid and strong, and I'm beginning to think its fuel related. When the gas is added it stumbles and sometimes dies and appears to be running really rich.

I have a 83 280ZX Turbo, totally stock from the bottom up. I am running MsNS extra on MS1 v3 PCB. I just upgraded to an EDIS 6 and got the car idling. The problem is I get an intermittent Timing Light signal and when throttle is applied the car will stumble and die. The idle is perfect though. I have searched and searched this site, but couldn't find anything close so I'm begging for some guidance.

The paint job looks great.

Maybe that was a misquote by me. What I used is a product called Jap Dryer. It is a paint additive that speeds the drying process up slightly and will make gloss paints dry harder. You can get it a Home Depot along with the paint. I am just about ready to hit the road with my car and hopefully will be posting some finished pics after the first of the year.

80LT1 this is what I had to do. I used the black super adhesive to stick the plastic strips on. Seems to work well.

Thanks for the help.

I just got the top and bottom trim attachment strips for the front windshield from black dragon. The only problem is I can't figure out how they go and where they attach in the windshield hole. Does anyone know this, or where I can find some pics of how these piece's attach? Please help.

I want to thank everyone for this helpfull info. I had lifters on 5 and 6 ticking like crazy. I followed the instructions here and now it purrs like a kitten. NO TICKS. Thanks for savin a poor guy lots of money!!!

I figured out what was wrong. I traced the wiring out and found that I had plugged the lead for the boost wrong. It all works now, just have to put the dash back together. Thanks for the help.

Thanks, I will give that a try.

Ok, I got my 83 280zxt up and running. I noticed at idle the boost gauge is showing pegged past 7lbs. I thought I might have some bad vacuum lines so I replaced all the lines on the car. Still showing over 7lbs boost at idle. Can someone please give this amature a little advice on where to start to find this problem?

Where did you come up with rattle cans? Might want to read the whole post before spoutin off. This type of paint job has been done many times with great results, I'm not the first. No offense, but do some reasearch before you make a blanket statement, makes everyone look a little smarter......

Has anyone heard or read about a clearcoat for this type of paint? I've been looking around but can't seem to find anything. I think a protective clearcoat couldn't hurt.

Thanks. I took your advice and used a random orbital with 2000 grit and wet sanded the panels again. I really seemed to help. The paint is solid and seems to have hardened up really well. I added a few more pics of the finished deal. It's not show room, but it will be great for an every day driver. It does remind me of the old lacquer finishes though. http://picasaweb.google.com/NewZMan2/280ZRestoreProject/photo?authkey=rZmcty_V38E#5105030621683584658

your correct, I have been just hand sanding. I will try a block sander and see what happens.