g00kb0i

Well, I accidentally found a great undercarriage sound deadening remover. I was at home depot looking at acetone and paint thinner when they had these other stripping solutions. So I just grabbed on and went on my way. They have these available in thick paste or spray-able. You paste it on to whatever and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. Then you just scrape it off with a scraper. Worked out very well for me, Much better than a heat gun. Well, way more efficient for sure. The price was $10 A short video I made of how well it works.

i just love how it could be so subtle when dark and still look good but its ability to shine when lit. Like no other blue, but that is just my opinion.

I believe that bmw has the best blue. Interlagos blue.

Any significant reasoning behind your belief that they're crap? It is one's word against another. Waiting was not the issue as there are other readily available LCA's for purchase. Dave supposedly has a few competitive racers that use his products with successful results. I understand that the possible modifications and fabrication done to make these LCAs work are unknown but Dave is more than happy to tell you his experiences and advice.

I probably would if it was anyone else selling it. Just how he handled the flares, no thanks. Im going to try these out first and if it doesnt hold and im still alive, i will try differnt arms.

Yes sir! That's how they came and I have not adjusted anything yet, just test fitting a few bits. I have actually read the thread your referring to. Dave actually posted what he thought, but again, I rather have the opinions of people who are "unbiased." Its hard talking to Dave when he's busy and some what agitated. By no means is he blowing me off but he seems set on his design and belittles you. That's just me though.

I called but he didnt answer and more so, I want some opinions of those that aren't trying to sell something. I could always sell these and go with the MMS arms that many seem to like.

I have a question for those of you who are running the AZC rear adj. arms with the AZC dog legs. The AZC dog legs have a tapped hole on the bottom cap where the rear arm is held. After you mount the arms completely do you unbolt the caps of the dog legs and drill a hole and re-intall the caps and put a bolt in? I worry about the movement of the arms durring high loads and if i drill a hole in the actual arm, it will significantly stop the possibilty of the rotation of the rear arms. Is this over kil or is actually done? Here is a pic if it helps any ?

Thanks so much for your efforts greatly appreciated!! As for the people still tryinng to sell one, I still need one guys. thanks.

location: Glendale, CA email: g00kb0i@hotmail.com I need a 72 or older steering shaft. The whole unit, from the bushing to the lock with nut. Here is a pic of the item i need. Thanks for your time.

do drive your car often? i believe the hks clutch's are non-sprung hub, and will be quite the challenge to drive, but like anything, you can get use to it. spending 1400 on that is a waste in my opinion. you can probably get a single plate clutch's these days with better drive-ability and hold the same if not more power. also, are you sure the twin will hold the power you plan to make ? just wondering why and where your coming from. best of luck sir !!

i dont know anything myself either but thats almost a 10% variation between cylinder 1 & 2. that is more than enough to run lean and knock. but i guess knowing that before hand, you can just tune each injector. are you planning on changing anything?

i believe theyre ssr's. ssr make all their sizes in 4x114.3. i guess they may be works if he did the 5 lug conversion.

wow, your car is awesome. every time i see it, it make me want to do a tube frame as well. thanks for all the helps guy, hopefully i get some time in on the car saturday. thanks !!

isnt there a venturi effect that occurs 45* angles as well? so, the mainstream air that passes over the hood would draw out the air from front area of the car through the ducted radiator. kinda, sorta, maybe?

which is why i have my two diagrams. at first thought, it was #1 because the the whole picture looked right, but as i thought about it, the impact of the initial high velocity air would work with #2. i remember reading somewhere that the air becomes turbulent and almost stagnant after the heat exchanger. this led me to believe that the air exiting after the radiator wouldnt matter as much. but at the end of the day, i still see #1 as being correct. so im lost...

thanks everyone for the help, greatly appreciated! but isnt the cause of the lift effect in the s30 due to all the trapped air in the engine compartment, therefore properly ducting 95% of the incoming air to pass the radiator as perpendicular as possible and then to continue to follow through the ducting to a vented hood? wouldnt that eliminate that effect and add down force in the process? here are the extra pics as requested. its from a mini and the website is as follows: http://www.kimini.com sorry but i didnt resize the pics on purpose so you can see the intricate fabrication work.

sorry for misleading you guys, but the pics above are not my cars. just some pics of cars and interesting stuff that i save.

i know #2 makes no sense, but from searching johnc states " It looks like your oil cooler is in front of the lower radiator core support. Bore a couple holes on the back side of the core support and add some reinforcement to the support itself. Run a belly pan to behind front corssmember and be sure to seal the front, top, bottom, and sides of the heat exhanger area so that all the air goes through into the engine compartment." so does this mean that it should not be vented through after the radiator? only pre-radiator? which makes me believe #2 without the ducting behind the radiator because the air will "catch" in front of the radiator with the ducting. my dilemma is that all the venting done to race cars seem to have it vented through the hood in which i plan on mimicking to try and reduce the front "lift" effect. such images of the vented radiator to the hood are as follow. i always thought that it was due to engine compartment space that didnt allow for these types of ducts to be utilized. where as in the s30z, the space is more adequate.

hello, im not sure if this is the right section to post this but i had a question and wanted your opinion's. i was wondering which way i should angle the radiator for better down-force from the front end? it will be fully sealed off and vented either way. the green is the radiator and the yellow is for the ducting. i keep thinking it's one way, but because it actually flows through, is it the other? im lost... thanks for your time guys. pic 1 pic 2

i dont think he means the weight distribution, but more that the z weighs 2/3's that of a the supra. less mass means less force on the drivetrain to move itself, therefore a 154 handling way more than power on a z than a supra.

Not so much hunting, taka kaira has them listed on the site and comes with the correct throwout bearing. I believe it was 2-2500 for the quad-plate. pretty reasonable to me. Is the carbon carbon you refer to from rps ? Both great and sad stories from that company, but regardless, more options for the r154. Im not here to argue but there are a lot of people running the stock 6spd w/ power. Ryan Woon from WOTM is almost making 1300rwhp on the 6 spd and trapping 171, Gary White who's trapping 180 in the 1/4 is also on the stock 6spd. Boost Logic, i believe their other car, traps 172 w/ the stock 6spd, Dana Dichara with a 171 on the 6spd. Few of these cars make this trap speed are also full weight as well, thats 3500+. we can go all day listing the fast 6spd's. The people running the th400, power glide, l40e, etc just want to run, and time more reliably/consistently in the 1/4. I say you can go wrong both ways, but some people regret going auto. the high rpm's @ highway speeds, no more "fun" driving around town, etc... but that is all subjective.