MazterDizazter

I just decided to re-wire the entire car. P.O. hacked the s**t out of it. thought the 5 inchers wouldn't fit inside the stock bezels?

Hey all, I replaced all of the factory gauges with Autometer Phantom series gauges: 5" tach and speedo, and 2 5/8" oil pressure, voltage, and water temp. I've got them mocked up in the dash now; I gutted the three small stock gauges and placed the new gauges in the outer plastic housings and I'm going to modify the stock metal backing plates to use the stock mounting hardware, but the larger ones are basically resting inside the holes as they are too large to use the stock plastic housings. I need to know from others who've done it how you solidly mount the 5" tach/speedo gauges inside the dash. It's in a '73 Z if that helps. I've been doing it with the dash inside the car; don't know if it'd be easier to take it out to mount them; the wiring is all done but it should disconnect with relative ease.

$400 is the going rate for Toyota wiring harness conversions, too. I chose not to pay it and had an "experienced friend" do it for me; turned out looking like a rat's nest and half my warning lights were on for no apparent reason. Some things are just worth the cost. Yeah, $10-11k sounds about right, and very much worth it considering the power and speed you get from that RB. I think I'm going to put this idea on the backburner for a while as I just found out that 3SGTE swaps for my MR2 have become much more affordable recently; it used to be $10k for a gen2 swap (200hp/200lb/ft), now it's around 6-7k for a gen3 swap (241hp/224lb/ft), and that includes the modifications to bring it to around 300whp. Considering my MR2 needs an engine and my Z doesn't necessarily need one right now (just refreshed the ol' L26 and rebuilt the Webers), I think I'll wait a while, sell off the L28ET stuff, and put it in the piggy bank for later, when hopefully, hopefully RB swaps will become more affordable.

Oh for cryin' out loud! I wirebrushed the crap off the locks and found the key code, in very very tiny font. No wonder I couldn't see it before.

No, only 8hx100 and 8hx114.3. They have 8 holes rather than 4 to make mounting easier. Unfortunately, I don't think they make them 4 lug universal, which would be awesome because I could swap them between my Z or MR2

Very very very very clean! Can't wait 'til I can afford to rebuild mine from bare metal.

I bought my 240Z with an L26 swapped in. How can I tell if I have points or electronic? I feel like such a n00b...

w00t! Thank goodness for that; I thought I was gonna have to drop 400+ on new locks

Yeah no, my car has nothing whatsoever. I checked all the spots. Any idea if I can have a key made if I bring a lock cylinder to a locksmith that specializes in automotive locks?

Good for bumping small animals? Actually, my hatch strut works fine; the spot welds on the LH side of the hatch rusted out; ouch! Time to replace the weatherstripping as I'm guessing that's something the P.O. neglected to replace

I noticed that, hehe, that's why I was kinda wondering.... I guess I'd have to get them refinished in order to ask for any decent amount.... I was just wondering if it would be enough to offset the cost of a set of carbon or even fiberglass bumpers

I lost the key to my '73. I called a locksmith and he said the 4 digit code for the key was located on the passenger side lock cylinder. I've taken both door panels off, inspected both lock cylinders, and inspected the ignition switch and I can't find a code anywhere! Am I looking in the wronng place? Any help would be appreciated!

Hey guys, I was thinking of selling the chrome bumpers on my '73. I guess they're euro bumpers because they don't have the plastic trim? I know at least the front one was NOS as it still has the Nissan label on the inside. The front has a small indent in the center from my engine crane but could probably be bent back. The rear has some oxidation from sitting. In other words, they're not concours-ready, but they're in really nice shape. What do you think they'd be worth, roughly? Here's the best pics I got currently:

I'm working on getting the L26 that came with the car back in and compression/leakdown tested. Should be done by this weekend. If the results are lousy I'll be PM'ing you guys. Thanks!

Got the transmission last month. Forgot to post. It looks good! Unfortunately, the engine swap in my MR2 decided to have rod knock, so I now have to bust my ass to get that out, rebuilt, and put back in before summer's end. In the meantime, I'm putting the L26 back in the Z and getting the Weber carbs rebuilt so I can just drive the damn thing. I got the head off the L28 (it was a real pain since one of the head bolts broke off in the head) and it was looking pretty messy so I don't think I want to chance running high boost pressure off it. The cost of a rebuild on two motors is gonna cost me a lot of money and time, so I dont know how long it'll be before I get this thing done! I'm considering at this point selling all the L28ET stuff and using the money to get the car itself cleaned up, then buying and swapping in an RB26DETT when I dig myself out of debt. We'll see

I am looking for an L28 Long block with nothing else, no transmission, wiring, manifolds, anything! The closer the better, would prefer to have compression/leakdown test results!

I am looking for an L28 longblock to drop in my 240Z and use with carbs. Must be complete and in good running condition; I can do a valve adjustment but I don't want to be tearing it down if it's knocking or burning excessive amts. of oil! PM me with what you got.

Hey all, So I lost the keys to my '73 somewhere around the house. Not good! I want to get my car in the garage so I can work on it but the steering wheel is locked and I don't have wheel dollies or anything that'd help me pivot the car with the steering locked. Is there any way to unlock the steering without damaging anything?

The parts are in the mail! I should be picking them up in a week or so. I'm really glad that was cleared up, and I take back what I said. Justin's a good guy, he just had some tough s**t to deal with and it got delayed. They actually came with the car, but they were NIB from Nissan. I sold them because I'm going with Fairlady Z emblems instead.

Alright, alright. I may take back what I said about him. Although I was 99% sure I was being screwed, he finally contacted me and said he'd ship the parts. So I may actually be able to get this hunk o' junk running in a reasonable amount of time.

Well it looks like my project will be delayed even longer now because Justin Hodges (280ZForce) scammed me out of $1,395. He was supposed to send me a Z32 transmission, bellhousing adapter, custom driveshaft, short shifter, and shift knob, but instead decided to take the money and, well, not run? Glad to see they're not allowing him to sell anything here anymore...

I'll have to check my numbers but it doesn't sound like more than twice what I'll have to spend to get the L28ET rebuilt and tuned to ~300whp. Plus I can sell the block, AZC oil pan, Pallnet fuel rail, non-egr intake manifold, 240SX TB/adapter, and any other bits I have to make up the cost. I'll repost again with more solid numbers.

Let's say eventual goal is 600whp, achievable either with the L28ET or the RB26DETT. Kinda hell-bent on the straight-six layout.

Hey all, I'm in the middle of trying to swap an L28ET in my 240Z. I've gotten way too deep and spent way too much money on this dinosaur motor and I'm considering just getting an RB26DETT and selling my L-series parts. I need to know what added expenses come with the swap. So let's start with the engine: $3500 shipped for R32 RB26 from J-Hot Imports in NJ. I already have an AZC aluminum radiator and Treadstone FMIC, and a Z32 transmission, custom driveshaft, and shifter. I have an aeromotive FPR and I plan on buying a fuel cell and aeromotive fuel pump and filter with -10 braided hoses with A/N fittings. That leaves, by my calculations, the wiring, custom mounting solution, clutch, and bellhousing adapter (do I need a different oil pan?). I'd probably also want to replace the HG and head studs. Anyhow, waiting for people who have done the swap to chime in. Thanks guys!