MazterDizazter

Wow, thanks. Sounds good. I might see how much it would cost to have the whole thing done professionally, just to save myself time and sanity. Where's the best place to get all of these parts? I found some parts at Black Dragon Auto, but not freeze plugs and some other stuff...

Thank you for making up my mindon the Prototipo. I thought it would look different but I'm really not looking for that style, I guess.

bump!

OK, so who wants to sell me the little emblem??

an extra on e that says Fairlady Z or Datsun 240Z?

Look on eBay motors, Crowder's Customizing sells them.

I have a budget of about $2k, hopefully that'll be enough. I already have the gasket set and new oil pump and I plan to buy the rings, crank and main bearings, timing set, MLS head gasket, ARP head and main studs, and whatever valvetrain parts that need replacement (this is mostly where I need help picking out parts; obviously the valves, springs, and retainers will be on a case-by-case basis but I need to know what other stuff is involved). What machine work needs to be done to the motor typically, aside from decking the block, planing (or milling?) the head, and honing the cylinders? I also know I at least need a micrometer (and that "How to..." book), but I'm picking up one tomorrow to do headwork on my Toyota 4AGE. I assume I'll need the tool to install piston rings, and possibly a slide hammer?

Alright guys, I'm going to fully rebuild my L28ET mostly by myself (machine work will be done at local machinist) and I need to know what parts I will need and where the best place to order said parts would be. Also, a list of tools would help, although I think I have everything I need already. If there's a write-up for an L28ET rebuild somewhere, I'd be happy to read it. I need to know what order to do things in, and any tips so I don't eff anything up. Any and all help is appreciated!!! I've never done this before, but I'm totally confident I can do it; I have plenty of friends who have rebuilt motors and can call on them to get me out of any snags in case I do eff up. Thanks!

Yes, I will be painting the engine bay, semi-gloss black for now. I desperately want to strip the whole car down, media blast it, and re-paint the whole thing one color, but I just can't afford it right now. It will happen eventually though. BTW my coil-on-plug setup arrived in the mail and it's AWESOME! I'll post a pic eventually. Oh, and if anyone wants to buy my '75 EFI fuel tank, I'm selling it for $200 shipped. I decided to do a fuel cell since it will eventually be road-raced, hopefully....

oh I hope so

Is it possible to swap a glovebox lid from a RHD Fairlady Z onto a LHD 240Z? Didn't know if any of the mounting points were different or not...

I go to Bridgewater State College; I'll be going on my fifth year, unfortunately lol. Not sure what you mean by "shooting the engine", but yeah I plan to run MSII with a 4 bar MAP sensor, GM LS1 coil-on-plug setup with EDIS, and wideband 02.

So, I'm going to hijack this thread since his question was answered: my friend and I looked at a fairly decent '73 today, asking price $2k said he'd take $1k... had some rot on the frame toward the rear section of the front wheelwells....is that necessarily safe to fix? I just think it would trash the structural integrity....

Yeah pics....c'mon pics!

Still waiting for a coherent step-by-step explanation....

Yeah I definitely appreciate the explanation since I was quite confused with all the current write-ups, but some editing and whatnot would really help. I'd like to know enough about the wiring by the time I actually go to do it that I'm not terrified to do it, lol. And I'm especially confused with how in the hell I'm gonna do it while running MSII, MAP sensor, 240sx TPS, distributorless ignition, and a knock sensor (and probably some other crap I'm forgetting. Oh, and if the painless wiring harness will have anything to do with that. Oh how I hate wiring...

Hopefully you sold the other parts from that GTO

Woohoo! Thank goodness. I thought they were threaded into the head because it didn't seem to come loose on that side of the head when we removed all the bolts.

Do the head bolts thread into the head as well as the block or just the block? I accidentally broke a head bolt and it looked as if the threads were long enough to thread into both block and head...

I removed the old engine this week: And started to remove all the oil-based coating crap from the engine bay. It still needs a ton of work but it's getting there: Here's a pic of the Treadstone intercooler: And got some more minor work done on the block, like scraping off the old gasket material:

It's a Vader kit dude, just hit up body-kits.com and get one for $200 shipped!

Coming from an autocrosser's point of view, I can certainly say that having an electronic rev-limiter is a godsend. I have revved my MR2's engine over redline more times than I'd like to admit due to nigligence and it's not something I want to do. In a situation where you peg second gear once or twice, it's nice to have something keeping you from blowing things up, just in case your mind happens to slip. Watching that tach and maneuvering through slaloms isn't exactly easy, but then again, it wouldn't be racing if it were easy.... Was what I said totally conflicting or is it just me? lol

Congratulations, you must be psyched! I can't wait to finish mine now!

The reason why most twin turbo rotary engines need to be rebuilt (or to the best of my understanding) is because most stock FD RX-7's have inadequate stock cooling systems. Some simple upgrades to the cooling system (one of these being a big uncramped engine bay such as one in the Z) should work wonders for a rotary engine. The older single-turbo 13BT's are known to last around 120k and I suspect that's because of the increased space and proper cooling. You can pre-mix the oil in the gasoline, or there should be an oil injector adapter available; my '90 RX-7 Turbo II had an external oil resevoir which I filled with two-cycle oil every couple hundred miles. Try checking http://www.rotaryaviation.com. The most cost-effective turbo rotary swap I think would be the 13BT - $1500 will get you a series 5 motor/trans complete with ECU and all accessories, which makes 202bhp and 182lb/ft. 13BRE, 20b, and Renesis motors are considerably more expensive. You're best bet is to read aux's thread, and go on RX7club.com and read, read, read all you can. I really hope this works for you; rotaries kick ass!!!

The L6 section of the forum has two threads dedicated to this transmission swap. If you contact 240hoke, he might still have a bellhousing adapter left.