MazterDizazter

Exactly. Options are nearly limitless

Digging this up again... Yes, i just read up on those DHLA 45M's, pretty interesting. Either way I don't think my Weber 40's are going to be up to the task. 45's perhaps. I read elsewhere Tony_D stating that most driveablility issues stem from poor plenum design, i.e. being too small, like the Cartech manifold. I've considered fabricating a custom plenum similar to one used on 310z's car: I'm also hoping the thinner carbon plenum would allow a little of the carb sound out, unlike the cast aluminum plenums; the sound is a small part of the reason I wish to keep the carbs. Found this great site on blow-through setups: http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/carbureted.htm Found this issue (on above mentioned site): Fuel Enrichment: Your carburetor does not take into account boost pressure when it supplies fuel to the motor. Because of this you must take certain steps so that it supplies the correct amount of fuel when the turbo is at the maximum boost level. What most people seem to do is to jet the carb so that at max boost they have enough fuel. The problem with this method is that the engine will run rich at lower than max boost pressures which is also where most of your driving is done (As mine will be a dual-purpose street and track car, jetting the carb for strictly WOT operation is a no-no for me). A better method is to use a carb with a power valve and reference the valve to boost pressure. That requires possibly drilling some holes and running some vacuum lines. (Assuming the DHLA 45M has such a valve?) The other alternative is to use external means that can overcome the inability of the carb to understand boost pressure. These fall into two categories, a "dumb circuit", and a smart controller. The first type of circuit uses a pressure sensing switch to open a fuel solenoid. The fuel then sprays into the intake through an orifice. You set the pressure switch at what boost point you want the fuel enrichment to occur. As you can probably guess this system will not properly meter the fuel flow but it is better than nothing. (This won't cut it either IMO) The smart controller is an advanced electronic box that has the capability to meter the fuel flow depending on how much boost the turbo is giving the engine. With a "smart" controller your fuel curve will more closely match the air requirements of the engine and allow you to jet the carb as you would for a normally aspirated engine. The inexpensive ($150) Tim Systems controller pictured below works much like a mini fuel injection system. You use a regular fuel injection pump, 1 to 4 injectors, a pressure regulator, a MAP sensor and inject the enrichment fuel of your choice. Contact Tim at Tim Systems for more info: timsys@msn.com (Adding injectors to a carbureted turbo? That's defeating the purpose!) Now before you say anything, I know that the blow-through turbo setup will never be as good as a proper EFI setup. I know! But then again, we could easily argue that no matter what you do to your beloved L-series, it will never stack up to the superior RB25/26, so why aren't we all putting RB's in our cars? The reason I wish to do such a thing is simply because it's uncommon, at least for the Z car (I've seen plenty of domestics running blow-through turbo V8's, and of course there's the turbo Esprit and all those Vee Dubs). Maybe it's the desire to prove everyone wrong? The more naysayers I hear, the more I want to do it! I'm dealing with a similar issue in my supercharged MR2: everyone seems to think that 200whp is impossible without swapping out the stock blower for a twin-screw or a turbo. in any case, I'm gonna keep on researching and planning... stay posted if you like!

Option B. I have two L28ET's; the one I just got I'm going to clean up and place in the car mostly stock, and the other I am planning on building up slowly in my spare time, eventually to have a blow-through carbureted turbo setup...hopefully.

Oops. Yep I'm stupid. I was thinking the part that the wheel studs go in; whatever its called.

Thank you! I tried the whole vise grips thing, but no luck so far. I'm going to try some other tricks, worst case scenario drilling it out and using a heli-coil if need-be. Got the engine up on the stand and started taking it apart. I also picked up an R200 CLSD out of a Z31 turbo with 100k on it for a good price. I'm piecing together the other necessary parts to install the differential. So far I've spent more money on drivetrain parts than anything else! Never knew just how expensive it would be...

As it states in the title. I'm doing an R200 CLSD swap in my 240Z. PM or email at MazterDizazter@yahoo.com. Thanks!

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to just have my stock injectors cleaned/flowtested for now and then get MSII as soon as possible, then run the 440's...or triple carbs...but that's another story.

Everyone's favorite animated Z, from Wangan Midnight: Twin Fairlady Z 432's Mid Night S130 twin turbo: Shaw Takahashi's Z:

I tried searching; I'm not that stupid lol. I would think it'd be a matter of ratios or something. If you can throw a larger fuel pump in and keep the stock ECU then I don't see why injectors wouldn't be possible. I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190359738362&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Looks like a solid kit at a really good price. If I could get it tuned properly I could easily upgrade to standalone and a larger turbo in the future... Hard is a very relative term for me... you'd have to be more specific.

herrooooooo?

I think this is probably a stupid question but I'm wondering if it'd be possible to use and get very-close-to-stock fuel pressure from Denso 440cc low-impedance injectors by using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and not touching the stock ECU. I would like to get standalone and a larger turbo eventually, but for now I need new injectors and rather than get new/rebuilt stock units I'd like to just put the $$ toward Supra injectors and billet fuel rail. I have an SX performance adjustable FPR already that I can use... I'd like to get ~max boost on the stock turbo if that is of any difference.

Getting one from Gregmatic; thanks everyone!

Sorry, I meant to specify "Z31 LSD".

Front body work off Progress Engine out! This is all rust and dust that fell out of/off the car. Every night I left the garage I had to shower thoroughly, lol

Took some pics of this week's mayhem. Wow this car was a rotbox! I definitely plan on thoroughly going through the engine now. Hopefully it won't need a full rebuild, just new gaskets and seals and a lot of cleaning. On to pics: Had to grease the flatbed truck to shimmy the car off because 3 of the 4 calipers were seized. Removed them and pulled the car in the garage. Tow hooks ripped clean off! Shoved my hand right through the license plate section there, lol Found these in the car. Not gonna be enough to fix this puppy! At least it had a mad tyte JDM y0 exhaust!

Looking to swap an '87-89 Turbo LSD into my '73 Z. Either VLSD or CLSD works. PM me if you've got one. Thanks!

British Racing Green, originally (and will again be) #901 Silver

My thoughts exactly.

So, to try and bring this back on-topic, Weber 40DCOE's should work just as Dells or Mikunis so long as they've been modified with solid or foam-filled floats, and anything else? Say I've got a stock L28ET currently and I want to do the switch to a triple-carb single turbo blow-through setup; what do I do about the ECU and the rest of the sensors; run standalone? About fuel pressure: lets say I'm running a T3/T4 at 15psi. 15psi plus 4-5lbs is still way less than most modern EFI setups (right?), how big of a fuel pump would be needed?

Haven't posted in a while; I've been hard at work on boring stuff, but the project may be picking up steam thanks to a great find (more on that shortly). I got the L26 refreshed with new gaskets and oil pump, repainted the block, got the Weber carbs rebuilt, reinstalled it and was installing my Autometer Phantom gauges when I realized the wiring harness was a total hack job. I took the dash and harness completely out of the car, and while I was at it completely removed the interior to clean everything and hopefully get the old car smell out! Now more on that great find! I was hunting through Craigslist for a beater car and came upon a "1983 Datsun for sale, $500" No other info listed. I emailed them, they told me it was a "280Z" (obviously a ZX), and I set up a time to go look at it. It just happened to be only 12 miles from my house. I went after work when it was dark and started to look at it as the owner was talking to me. At some point in conversation he mentioned "the turbo bla bla bla" and I stepped back to realize that it was indeed an '83 Turbo ZX! I immediately opened the hood and confirmed this, then checked the odo which read 114k. He then said it came off the road because the brakes seized and the rust/rot was becoming a concern, but the engine ran perfectly. SOLD! Sadly the rot on the floors and frame rails makes the car itself un-salvageable. I'm picking up the car this friday, moving my car outta the garage and the ZX in. I should have it completely parted out the same day and towed out the next day. Hopefully I can have the engine refreshed, turbo rebuilt, injectors cleaned, and get a new clutch and R230 LSD (found out the custom driveshaft I bought with the Z32 tranny is designed for the R230, works for me). Since I planned on rebuilding the harness it should be easy to swap in the L28ET harness while I'm at it. I'll post pics of the part-out if I get time!

Dammit, don't you know I just ship you those parts because I think my L28ET won't be ready for a long time, and I find a running 280ZXT the NEXT DAY (only 12 miles from my house, no less) for $500! Oh well, guess I'll have to source another shaved manifold lol. On the bright side, I'll have a 240Z Turbo a lot sooner than I anticipated!

Hey all! I'm looking for a non-brittle blower motor fan, and all plastic heater plumbing except for the defroster vents. Also, a non-f**ked with 240Z wiring harness would be excellent. LMK what you have. Thanks!

I have a shaved ported N42, have the 240sx TB, TPS and adapter if you need it Have a stock J-pipe and a decent 2.5" downpipe Have a Pallnet denso-style (think that's 11mm o-ring?) fuel rail with pressure gauge Have some L28ET gauges, headgasket and a few others PM me for more info

The vents to the windshield are fine; I need the ducts that go to the center and side vents of the dash, the duct from the core box to the blower motor box, and if there are any that go from the lower vents to the floor, those too.

Hey all, In the quest for heat I took the dash and heater core out of the car. Found that mice and squirrels had made a nice little nest for me inside the core and blower motor. Took everything apart, cleaned everything, got it all working again, minus the fact that the brittle ducts from the blower to the core and the blower to the dash vents all broke and are completely useless. I'm not sure what to do at this point. I looked through Black Dragon's catalog and didn't see anything. Does anyone make reproduction ducts, or should I get creative with some Lowe's home heating ducts?