DennisK

Anyone know anything about the quality of HYPERCOIL brand springs? Saw them on Zcar.com and the pricing is pretty good.

Thanks Mike. You may have noticed I didn't have a good day today! From the sounds of your fuel press post yours is at least getting better! I've seen a 73'Z, no rust for $1600, and another for $500 recently on this site. I'm half tempted to make a cube out of mine, buy a plane ticket to the southwest and drive back. With my luck, I'd break down in Arkansas!

You are so right. I've been explaining business trends to deaf ears for 5 years now. When I was a regional mgr. with Quaker State Oil, I covered 22 states and saw the big chains take over markets everywhere except Chicago. We have been 10-15 years behind the times, and lucky to be there. Not no more! I think I'm going to bail out and go sell ice cream!

Mike, what guage sheet metal did you use to fix that area in the fender and firewall? Mine is not as bad as yours, but close. I am having the same reaction. Will 18ga be strong enough? Thanks.

The AC Delco part #323-488 fits a 95' Camaro. We sell our preferred dealers at $167.78 exchange. Autoexpress.com has the same # at my COST, $139.81 ex. You might check them out, and figure shipping. I wish that owning a parts store could be more helpful to this group. My partners don't see this as a problem. Probably why I took off a coupla months to build my car!! Never get mad....

Absolutely NO problems with Reaction at all. The owners name is John Washington and he is very helpful and reasonable. He returns calls quickly and answers his e-mail almost as well. There is lead time for the body parts, a conversation with John will target a date so you don't get a too "green" kit. They also have some pretty good pricing on accessories like coil-over kits and wheels, including wires. I would recommend John highly. [This message has been edited by DennisK (edited May 23, 2000).]

quote: Originally posted by razor8: has any one out there installed this kit, any insight would help. thanks I'm in the middle of it as we speak. What's up?

The Velo Rossa kit calls for a full convertible by cutting off the roof completely, and thru the B pillars. Using some of their tecniques, and some mods you could come up with something real nice. The window frames would be cut as per VR, and then modified to work and seal out the weather. Welding ledges to the front header and rear area in front of the hinges to recieve rubber molding, and molding on the sides of the roof itself for the windows, should make for a good fit and seal. Edgeing for the roof similar to Vette's should work. If you are interested in the VR portion, let me know and I'll e-mail it to you.

Thanks for the confirm-I just hate spending more money, but i guess I'll spring for the aftermarket ones.

Make that ICE COLD beer-you did burn your hand several times! I hope this solves your problem-good luck!

Does anyone know if LT1 heads wil work on an older block(64' 327)? My machinist, who specializes on Caravans and other station wagons, says yes. But I seem to remember they changed the cooling flow, and this might cause a problem.

I agree with Pete on all. It seems to me from all subjects that these are really starting points and fine tuning is needed for individual cars/setup. If memory serves, Mikelly has no vibration problems, and is using soild diff, and urethane engine/trans mounts, which JTR says will transmit noise/vibes. Mike, what angles are you running? Needless to say, my guy never worked on a Z V8, his was a general statement.

Back in the old days of leaded gas, quite a few guys ran around with open headers until police stopped them for noise. I never heard of valves being cooked then, but today's fuels may have a different effect. I'll be in the same situation soon(I Hope!), and really didn't think this would be a problem. The shop I will have do my exhaust is 1/2 mile away and maybe a short distance is OK. Anybody who knows for sure is will save us all alot of time and money!

I was told by a customer of mine, a driveshaft shop, to shoot for 5 degrees. He said that too straight(close to 0 deg) would cause vibration. If that is correct, you should be OK.

Ryan, you might try reading it again. Yea, they start out in a lighthearted manor, but go on to cover every single thing you asked for, right down to part #s for motor mounts. The adapters are diagrammed if you wish to make them yourself. As with all automotive projects, there will be some engineering, modifying and fabricating, but this is usually welcomed as part of the sport(USUALLY!) As a relativley new member and about halfway thru my project, I would say help with the advanced issues and super mods can be found on the various threads on this site. You might have to look thru some of the older threads. Specific questions are addressed here by those who have done it, and you'll probably get more than a few different ideas on the same thing. The answers I've rec'd here have been priceless and reassuring.

I was a regional manager with Quaker State, and it's good to see that some people know what motor oil is required to do. Lube is obvious, cooling and cleaning and keeping contaminents suspended is just as important.I know Amoco has been trying to make a block of plastics, but not working yet. They think they are close. Industry says a full ceramic sealed block (lubed by water) is very close, but I've heard that for 10+ years now. There is a lot of research in your area going on, and a lot of claims. Most people I've talked to are skeptical. I think it will happen.

I'm not there yet, however I read in one of the threads that the open R200 will spin BOTH tires. Changing the roll pin to a solid one was recomended for strenght at the spiders. I have a R200 to put in my 73'. When you turn the pinion flange, both axle flanges turn in the same direction. When you turn one of the side flanges, they turn opposite each other. I'm assuming this means it's an open unit, but spinning both tires would be perfect for my use. Do they really do that? Why?

Memo to Scarp: I'd guess you are married between 7 & 9 yrs. That's when the rules change. Don't know why they change. They just change. Solution? Start talking to everyone and see who might be in the carpet/drape/home furnishings bus., in order to finance their car. Make deals, make wife sorta happy. NEVER EVER tell her how you did it! If you do, you'll make new friends in the legal proffession. Do not lie. Just don't say anything, and just smile. I almost forgot. Lose the money list. If found, trouble. Besides, you have your memories! [This message has been edited by DennisK (edited May 04, 2000).]

Mikelley-It's no longer politically correct to keep ammo in those things, that makes it good recycling! Pete-bought a wire feed mig welder today. I think my cars gonna weigh a little more than planned! Thanks to both you guys, you've helped alot.

Thanks again Pete! Those pics I had printed a while ago, but didn't see the vertical plates til your explanation. I am going to add this mod on. Yes the basics are from VR, with some extras.

I'm certain this has been covered before, but I can't find the thread so here goes. I'm building a VR, which calls for the roof to be cut off. The car will be street only, 327 small journal, maybe 375hp. I know it will be fast, but I really want it to handle. The 73' Z I have has brand new heavy floor pans, and new frame rails proffessionally installed. I have welded in frame reinforcements(1x4) from the rear to front in the car, tied to rear strut towers. The re strut towers are braced to each other and then braced to the frame rails(like a triangle in each corner. I have braces welded from the rear towers back to the rear deck. In front a strut tower brace will be bolted in ala JTR, and I have welded braces forward and rear from the towers to the frame rails under hood area. Do the frame rails under the hood need to be tied to the frame in the cockpit? If so, what's the best way? I have printed pparaska's pics, but can't tell how the frames come together. The floor pans do not have the seat frame in. Do I need to reinforce perpendicular to the frame rail? Any other suggestions? [This message has been edited by DennisK (edited May 03, 2000).]

I will be getting into the front suspension very soon, and there are a couple of things I'm not quite getting. As per JTR, I plan on relocating the control arm p/u point. Do I still need the bumpsteer spacers? I thought you do both, but I'm not sure. Also, as per Pete, lowering the rack is a fix. The spacers under the front crossmember lower the rack, which bolts to it. is this not enough? I plan on lowering as much as possible, and still be realistic.

Most auto parts stores will have the adapters both in a fittings assortment(such as Edelman) and in their brake line asst. They should have 8" lines that are metric on one end and std on the other. Make sure you bring a sample of where you want to hook-up so the parts guy gives you the right size and correct flare style, regardless of which way you wish to go. One side note, if the counterman seems to know exactly what he's doing with these fittings and lines, he's a keeper! This seems to be a week point for most.

I've heard those rumors too. We also were told that when Texas went to the dyno testing there was such an uproar that it was suspended. Politics and business are the culprits here. Granted, the sales tecnique to the state leg was the blue smoking bombs running around Chicago, and that has worked well. You really don't see them anymore. But things always seem to over do it and then come back to center. I just don't wish to wait!

Mikelly's right-it depends on your state and county laws. In Illinois they test in certain counties, of course, they run the OBDII. Tailpipe tests run from cars dated 1968 and up. Dynos from 84' and up. Antiques and show cars can be driven, but only to and from shows!(Officer, I know it's 4A.M., the show got out late!!??). A visual inspection of original emission parts is allowed, but I've not seen or heard of it practiced, even on failures. I'm doing a VR and the state told me that if I have ALL reciepts, including a numbered chassis from the Kit co., the engine year becomes the car year(64' 327). Or, I can keep it a 73' Z and pass emissions every two years(detune?), until they get realistic and go back only 25 years.