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tbellis

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About tbellis

  • Birthday 06/30/1968

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    Phenix City, AL

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  1. Still haven't built a fan shroud for the radiator yet.
  2. I currently have an older 4 bolts 350 block with the vortec heads and and T-5 in my 74 260Z. I used the JTR setup for the mounts and crossmember. The crossmember bolts thru the floor pans on each side. I used fender washers to help spread the load as much as possible. I used a wildwood master cylinder (bolt pattern match exactly) with a braided line to the original slave cylinder on the T-5. You will either have to buy the adaptor to couple this line to the slave cylinder or take the original fitting from the slave cylinder and modify it to allow the screw on line to couple to it the push and pin to slave cylinder. The information regarding the piston size and other information is all in the JTR book. It has many other items such as how to make all of you original gauges work with the conversion. The speedo is 5 mile hr off and the clock don't work. Every other gauge works fine including the tach. Blast to drive.
  3. I'm running the MSD dizzy with MSD 6 HVC. I had to run an tachometer adapter to get my tachometer to read (resistor added and then adjusted to read correctly).
  4. I run the pressure switch to power a relay that will only start the pump when oil pressure is reached. This keeps things quite until the engine starts, the engine exhaust make it difficult to hear the pump. You do have to prime the fuel system if you change a carb or something.
  5. Thanks for the comments. Got pulled off for a couple of days. I hope to get the drve shaft installed so I cam break the cam break in done this weekend. The throttle linkage worked out great. I saw another member that used a cable to make the pull from the original throttle pivot bracket, thought I can do that with a couple of rods. Agains thanks for all the information others have provided on this sight just reading and looking at the pictures helps.
  6. Finally got a start after collecting parts and planning for the last couple of years. It's kind of hard to get the time when others are always getting you to work on their cars, even harder to turn down the extra work. Sometimes you just have to make time. I am shooting for the semi stock look with my project. Main things left is the drive shaft, exhaust & fan shroud. And a few hoses and instruments to hook up. Some of you have really taken it to the next level. Some really awsome pictures on this forum.
  7. I believe the early 350 2-piece rear main seal is internally balanced and the newer style one piece rear main engine is externally balanced. Please verify ths but I think this is corrct.
  8. I also have a 260Z that I will soon begin. I been reading and collecting parts. Picked up my Toyota brake calipers today. In the JTR book it shows the drivers side with a rearward dump on the exhaust manifold. Will a straight down clear with no issues. Sorry if this is already discussed somewhere else. Thanks, Tracy.
  9. Have a solid 1974 260Z purchased about a month ago for $500. Came with a complete parts car, another 260Z. I went back and picked up a 1975 280Z for $100 to get the R200 out of it.
  10. I'm also new to the board, but have done a good bit of searching the internet resently for a good low cost differential. I found the R-200 LSD differential PG- Power Brute LOM59-12 at Reider Racing. However, when I called to places an order I was told that they have had supplier problems and are uncertain if they will be able to get anymore of these. If anyone has a line on an alternative please let me know.
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