gramercyjam

1945#, L28, R190, all steel body, stock glass in windshield and hatch.

I got rid of the booster on my '73. The booster was fine for the street but with race pads & shoes and hoosier slicks on a 1 ton car it was too easy to lock them up. I used the original MC, cut a mounting plate off of the booster, and used the rod that connects to the brake pedal and the rod that goes into the MC. Drilled some holes and welded the two rods together. I added a manual proportioning valve to the rear brakes and took out the original proportioning valve. I'm happy with the result.

I've been lurking. I got sick last fall and had some major surgery and had to take a break. It sucks getting old... Now I put the Z away for a while this year and started driving a 92 E Stock Miata. I got tired of being embarrassed when C Stock Miatii/MR2's beat me when the slicks grip starts falling off. There has got to be a better way of fixing the Z's handling than buying a new set of slicks every 30 runs. I'm hoping to learn the handling secrets of the Miata and improve my driving and improve the Z as a result. I'm picking up an MR2 this weekend too.

Lower pressure = more grip. Can't say I agree with that as a general rule of thumb Jon. I've noticed some days yes, some days no. It seems to me to have a lot to do with the age of the tires. I find that I run higher pressures in new tires with few heat cycles for optimal grip and handling while tires that have more than a few heat cycles can benefit from lower pressures. Of course this is strictly a qualative assessment of Hoosier slicks from my own personal experience. I'd love to see some graphs.

It would be helpful to know if any of the 8610 or 8611 would be suitable for springs in the 400-500 lb range.

It would be helpful to know if any of the 8610 or 8611 would be suitable for springs in the 400-500 lb range.

HEY! Nothing wrong with taht. I think I finally admit I can't drive as gooder as I thought so I might join up with the doritos and see if I can score with doing the show instead of losing doing the go.

HEY! Nothing wrong with taht. I think I finally admit I can't drive as gooder as I thought so I might join up with the doritos and see if I can score with doing the show instead of losing doing the go.

I assume you are going to run in Prepared or Modified, as slicks are not allowed in Stock, Street Prepared or Street Modified or Touring classes. A 10" wide rim is the widest you can go in Prepared without penalties. I would guess an R25A might be problematic on such a heavy car but I haven't tried such a soft compound myself. Think of soft tar on a hot day. Thats about the consistency of an R25. Most folks run 22.0 X 10.0-16 R35 on a 16X10 rim round here. Or go for the 23.0 X 9.5-15 on a 15X10. I think you will like the responsiveness of the tire with the shorter sidewall though.

Sorry. I misunderstood you. I agree with you then.

No No No. I see in your profile, you are an engineer also. We didn't spend all that time and money getting BS*E's to go around using the wrong abbreviations. Since you won't believe me, I offer the Society of Automotive Engineering to back my claim. See the SAE publication below and search on spring rate, linear. lbf/in or N/mm is correct. http://www.sae.org/standardsdev/tsb/tsb003.pdf

Wrong again. Torque is force TIMES distance NOT force DIVIDED by distance.

If you do stick to autox and someday go to the nationals, you might still find several 240Z's in FP. There are none currently in SM2 that I am aware of. We have several cars down in Texas that run in FP. It's nice to have some people in your class to compete with. I disagree with John about $25K to get a nationally competitive car together for FP. If you can do all the work yourself, and you have some fab skills, and luck out scrounging up some used parts, you can build a car that will compete for substantially less. Now that's the easy part. The trick is driving well enough to trophy.

Lbs/in is correct. You are thinking of torque specs on fasteners.

300# springs are definitely not comfy on the street. Good tip Cary - I'll give it a shot after things slow down this summer. I still have a lot of suspension work to do to get things where they should be. It's funny how one day, you find yourself outdriving a car you thought your driving skills couldn't keep up with in the first place.