Z8

Send me you're email address and I'll send you the pic's I just sent DP. Take a look at his set up too, I think it's cleaner than mine. I wanted multiple attachement points because I do SCCA SOLO II and occasional track days and wanted a very solid install. I too wanted serviceability and did not want to "trap" the oil pan. Although, I think Ansil's mount is a work of art. My tranny also has a fabricated mount with four attachment points and was easy to set up. I just positioned the engine using the primary engine mounts loosely bolted in and supported by an hoist, then with the tranny bolted to the engine was able to line up exactly where I need to place my trans mounts. Keep in mind I cut out the stock trans. mounts and was not shy with a hammer in making room in the trans. tunnel or on the firewall.

Thats what I'm doing, The Tek-Coat company in Columbus wants $60.00 for a valve cover! I have started doing parts for friends for much less. I don't expect to make alot of money at it, but if it puts a few dollars back into my pocket it'll be a first for my car hobby. You will also need a sandblasting set up if you're going to get into this.

Yea, it's great to have the right tool for the job. I spent years trying to rig, fanangle, coax, manuver, improvise, etc. on projects to "save money" but when thinking back to all the time, headaches, poor results, mangled parts, I not sure I saved much. I adopted the policy of just buying the tools as needed. The job turns out better and goes faster. And when you're a car guy, you'll end up needing the tool again or a buddy will.

Topless- I just realized your in Ohio, I'm in Columbus. You can come over and use my press anytime.

After going nuts with beating and soaking to get the pin out I bought a 12 ton press from Harbour Freight for $125 and pressed it out. Then I went ahead and replaced all my bearings, pressing old ones off-new ones in. Getting that work done at a shop would have cost me the price or more of the press and now I have another tool for future needs.

dp351zcar- I'll take some pic's and email them to you. Zford- My mounts do not extend under the block. As stated, I reinforced the frame rails with 1/4" channel steel and I am using 1/2" grade bolts all the way through the channel steel and frame rails. I also have two other attachment points from the stock motor mounts. One goes to the front of the block, while the other acts more like a heavy duty torque strap and attaches to the front of the drivers side head in two spots. (I used ARP head studs, and made sure the other three mounting points were preloaded before I did this) My set up will not win any trophy's at a trailer queen competition, but it's functional and it's hard to argue with 393 hp 400 ftlbs in a 2500lb car with a complete coil over/adjustable shocks/camber plates/3 piece rims w255-/285/40/15's, etc, etc....

I am working on setting up a bigger oven now. I have a couple of ideas but need to do further research. My first thought was to find a 55 gallon drum or large tank and install the elements from my oven in it. But my latest thinking involves finding a chest freezer that is shot and then stripping out the plastic interior and insulation. Then cut a opening in the back side that I can match up with my oven opening. If I remove the oven door and use the gasket from the door (you can buy more of this kind ov gasket if needed) I could then attach the oven to the chest and could lower items in from the top and shut the lid and bake away.

Was off the board for a few days and just saw this. I used the block hugger headers out of the PAW catalog with zero modifications and no u-joint in my steering linkcage. I fabricated my own motor mounts that attach to the frame rails that I reinforced with 1/4" channel steel. The front of the block sits 1" behind the front axle line, so I have what is now called by Nissan a "front mid-engine" design. The engine has a slight tilt towards the passenger side (to clear the steering shaft) that is only discernable upon close inspection.

I went for the ford conversion for 115 reasons, as in the 115 pounds difference in weight between a 302 and 350. I autocross so weight is everything, not to mention I'm from the school of small/light equals fun to drive. Unless you're from the same school I am the chevy will be a little easier swap.

Well I just looked again and couldn't find the website, but it really was there!! I had tried to go around Eastwood and see if I could get product cheaper, but their (hotcoat) website wouldn't accept my order for some reason (this was about 3-4 weeks ago) I'll keep looking and it I track them down I'll post it. I went to the local used appliance store and they had a Jenn-Air oven/microwave wall unit that was pulled when someone remodeled their kitchen. Not much of a market for a built in unit. It's a top end home convection unit with digital controls, preheat cycle and timers. The microwave works, I can heat my coffee in the garage while waiting for parts to cure

I have the setup from Eastwood, you can also go straight to the Hot Coat website. I have done my entire suspension and am very pleased with the results. I bought a home convection oven with digital controls/timer for $100.00 to cure with. To do your springs hang them horizontal so you can move the gun inside as well as outside the spring for even coverage. Another tip is the fiberglass tape can get expensive, use aluminum foil. Its cheap and easy to get on and off.

43 and just had my first child, she's 8 weeks old. But I'm prepared for a midlife crisis- I already have a younger women (wife is 29) and a little red sports car.

I have about 15K in mine, total. But it's not that much when you go shopping for cars nowadays. Look in the back of a Car & Driver and mark the sportscars that have the performance that can match the cars on this site and see how much they are! I used to run a Porsche 951, a new 400hp engine would cost you 15K. For that much I have the 400hp-suspension-brakes-etc. etc. to match and the car!

If you want to take a look at the ford swap I'm in Columbus.

Ok, I'll bite...... "Your soul is worth £5958. For your peace of mind, 91% of people have a purer soul than you." What!!!!

My computer at home crashed, and I have not been on the board for awhile. I'll shoot out some pic's of my fabricated sidepipe set up. I've got less than $100.00 in it, flows great, loud-but not absurd loud. If your car is lowered you will need to go through the fender, but it clears my 9" wide rim mounted with a 255/50 tire.

15x9 & 15x9.5 Revolutions

The system I have is modular in nature and wouldn't be hard at all to tie into the existing engine harness.

I'm running the same Arizona Z set up, cheap it is not but two issues drove the decision. 1) if your going to spend the money to build a fast car-aren't the brakes AT LEAST as important as the engine? If your car won't go your ticked off-if it won't stop your dead. 2) I fabricate all my own parts, but I'm a chef, not a machinest. I don't want to be bombing through the esses at Mid-Ohio and have a part that I didn't get just right give up on me or have less than optimal peformance. Oh, and by the way-you will never need more brake no matter what you do to your car!

I did alot research on this and your choices are: you can rewire it from scratch, buy custom/new one or buy a universal harness. If you are just going to rewire a section I'd do it from scratch. If you going to rewire the whole car I would buy a universal harness. I compared the various ones and picked American Autowire. The fuse box is modular so I can put it anywhere I want, the wire is heat/abrasion resistent, the wire is labeled every few inches with exactly what it goes too, and everthing is packed in individual bags for each sub-system with all wires, connectors, switches etc. When your ready to wire the front lights, pull out that bag and everything is there. Comes with a great, easy to read wiring diagram too.

Try racer wholesale they have a selection of standalone and plumbed in systems. And they look racey, not ricer.

A friend of mine just bought a CTS. I've never been a cadillac fan, but after driving it for a 30 minutes, it compares very well to my BMW 535i. With THAT under the hood you could go M5 hunting.

I have coil-overs with sectioned struts from Ground-Control, and yes there is a limited amount of suspension travel. If it's a track only car with 10 point cage, etc. -by all means use a stiff spring, but after playing around with different spring rates I have to say anything stiffer than what I have gains you nothing IMO. If you have the money, go for rebuildable Penske's- custom valved for your car and driving style, otherwise go for adjustable Illumina's or Koni's.

I have 250# springs in front and 300# springs in the rear with Tokico 5-way Illumina's. My 240 took 2nd in the nation (SCCA BSP '98) and is, or was, a dedicted track car. I promise you that if you running anything stiffer than what I've got on your car, it will not only rearrange your internal organs but will be darty from lack of compliance over uneven road surfaces.

Two Points- Everyone has their idea of what looks good on a Z, I personally think the money for the wing could have gone to a little body work and paint , but as far as wings go, it's a cool wing. Slow is a moving target. When I bought my first Z it felt fast, for a few months. Then I added header/cold air intake/exhaust tweaks, felt fast again, for a few months. Then I added a cam/compression/triple carbs, wow-it was FAST, for a few months. Then I added.........