jpndave
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Posts posted by jpndave
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Get ultra black in the "easy cheese" can. Prep is absolutely critical. Is has to be completely clean and degreased/free of any oils. A fingerprint can cause a leak. I've done a lot of transfer cases and other parts. The only leaks were prep errors (see previously mentioned fingerprint reference). You want a nice consistent bead, just enough for a slight even squeeze out. That's where the pressurized can comes into play. Big excess chunks cause problems especially on the inside...
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Omar, when you get ready to do the hoses, charge, etc. I have all those tools here including crimpers for the A/C lines. My dies are specific to the smaller less bulky fitting style, forget the actual name for them off the top of my head. I have gauges and vacuum pump, freon recovery system, etc.
The bulkhead idea sounds cleaner than the mess often used. I did that on my JK with a/c and heater separate. There are a couple of other sources for those bits. I'll try and get into my archives and see what I can find. -
10 hours ago, Jboogsthethug said:
Have you considered the Toyota 4x4 conversion? I imagine you have, but from what I hear those are a great upgrade and way cheaper than the Z Car Garage kit. Though that kit looks so dang nice
If you are talking about the front calipers/pads. I have those on my car. It did make a HUGE difference in braking. I likely will launch those at some point. I was a major upgrade and brake fade with spirited driving was much better, especially in the rear as the fronts did a much better job. I remember sourcing some performance pads with better bite. Seems like there was some modifications to the backing plates too. That's my memory from a long time ago though.
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I would be in for something. My son has connections with a printing company if that is needed and has previously done their design work. I think he played around with the logo when the last run was done. I'll check on that. If the vector can be found that would certainly make it easier.
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4 hours ago, BJSZED said:
Omar,
Do you think the coolant leak is coming from the NPT threads into the head ? What did you seal those threads with ? I'm about to do the coolant mod and am trying to figure what's best to seal the threads. I was considering just using blue silicone as I've used that before to seal badly damaged threads or using blue locktite.
Do NOT use silicone on NPT threads. Teflon tape, paste or both. Get something decent if you don't have it already. On the tape, wrap opposite of what you would think initially so it lays it down rather than bunching up when threaded together. Thicker higher quality tape does work better and there are stainless specific formulas when needed.
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Those look nice. Should make routing much cleaner. Might want to look a nylon too?? I have some parts printed in nylon that seem solid. I think nylon is harder to print. We have a printer and JD does as well if we can get time to run it. JD's boys might be up for the challenge.
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Nice Omar! You down here for a few days?
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11 hours ago, Zetsaz said:
I may take you up on that. Underneath the car, the fuel lines are one of my biggest frustrations. They work fine, but I just flared them for EFI rubber hose for now. Trying to get my cousin to help me 3D print some mounts to run along the frame rail, right now they're just sort of hanging with only a couple of clamps in the back and front and zip tied to the brake lines which are more properly mounted. Stock rubber mounts don't work since I upgraded to 3/8" stainless line.
it's not too bad since I only have very short sections of rubber, especially at the front. The rail is deadheaded and the FPR is running "returnless" style. I've heard that's not ideal with boost, but I figure if the "Medusa" Z is running that way with much more power than I'll ever have and Z Car Garage didn't bother to change it when they did a lot of work for him, then I'm probably fine.Some printed brackets would be sweet. I have that roll flare tool as well as a hydraulic bender and another that does most of the other ends.
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Looking good Omar! The new parts are pretty...
If you have a need, I have the roll flare tool to do hard AN lines. It works quite well with the sleeve and nut to go hard lines.
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Nice Omar! Looking good!
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6 hours ago, Zetsaz said:
Well... As expected, I've called on two separate occasions and both times the machine shop has told me they haven't gotten to it yet despite calling a day or two after they told me it'd be ready.
It's "top of the list" right now and will be done "Monday or Tuesday" but I'm not counting on it haha.
As soon as I get the bellhousing back and cleaned up the transmission is going in for an inspection and rebuild from a local shop I've trusted before with the transmission in my hardbody
What do you need machined on that?
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@NewZed Those Holley covers are way cleaner than the stock covers with Gen 4 coils. Aside from the covers themselves looking better, no coil brackets. The coils attach directly to the valve covers, so lighter and looks much better.
Thanks for posting this up on the baffle, I am going to look into it on my Jeep. Your build is looking great! -
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I have been looking at using Tegris for my cars splitter. Supposed to be much more durable than carbon and less expensive. I'll see if I can find my bookmarks on it. I think it's used on the NASCAR splitters.
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Yes looking great. She's a beauty! Love how the color turned out.
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Looking really nice Omar! 👍
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Overall noise level "might" be higher than a more restricted or a chambered muffler but I much prefer the sound. I find it isn't opjectionable low RPM but a bit of bark when you step into the throttle and no drone/resonance. On the big LS in my JK where it's just a little loud a resonator should take care of it. Luckily there is more room to work with under there. With a turbo on the Duramax one muffler is enough.
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Maybe one of these then?
https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers?muffler_body_length=121
The angle core deadens sounds a bit
I'm looking at doing something like this but it will be where the spare tire was exiting below the plate.
https://www.borla.com/products/proxs-universal-muffler-400286
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I don't think the Aero turbine will fit. They are long.
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The super turbo is chambered with the radius bends to improve flow like 5th one down in that link. Still chambered still resonates every one I've heard.
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I have this on my truck and Jeep.
https://aeroexhaust.com/c-1389207-mufflers-aero-turbinexl.html
I love how it works on the Truck in 4". JK is 3.5" and just a little loud (Colton likes the noise - kids 🙄) I'm going to add a small resonator when it goes back together.
On my Z I'll do a SS Borla or equivalent dual in dual out (X in the middle of the muffler) if I can make it fit. Look for something with a core like a Borla.
So on this page any except the chambered one (5th one down)
https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/
A lot of muscle car guys like the deep rumbly sound of a flowmaster but that resonance is horrible. My JK has plenty rumble and none of the resonance.
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Yes you want straight through but a good muffler. IMO the Borla is one of the best sounding but they are spendy. I like a more European sound if that makes sense. The drone I mentioned when we drove your car is the chambered muffler. That resonance drives me crazy and literally gives me a headache.
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@ZetsazSo on my phone will be quick. Don't get a turbo style muffler. Send that one back or cancel if you can. Get a Borla/Dynomax type. The turbo style is what is giving your resonance/droning.
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I have an AC hose crimp set should that need arise.
A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted · Edited by jpndave
It ought to stop with those!
Mine was night and day just adding the Toyota truck calipers and better pads to the front. Those are a whole different level!