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jpndave

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jpndave last won the day on June 14 2018

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About jpndave

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  • Birthday December 1

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    http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123712-240z-pro-touring-build/

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    Hyde Park, UT
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    73 240Z owned for 30+yrs(my high school car). Doing a full makeover now, Voodoo/T56 Magnum, Suspension, Brakes, etc. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123712-240z-pro-touring-build/

    2007 Jeep JK Unlimited, LS3/6L80E/242AMG https://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?77265-Jeep-JK-Unlimited-quot-Transformer-quot-6-2L-quot-LS3-quot-GM-build

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  1. That's correct, it's not the aluminum case that is different it's the carrier. We have both here. I don't see the ears being an issue in our cars. The aluminum case would have the potential to deflect more giving clearance issues to the ring and pinion under high power/traction/stress. I'm running aluminum to save the weight. In a drag car or heavier the iron would be safer.
  2. Lizardskin is good stuff! It does work on sound and heat insulation. Also VERY lightweight. The urethane is a good idea. I used a black single stage industrial urethane on my JK project over the Lizardskin. Your project is really coming along nicely.
  3. Leave it to you @1969hondato run this right over the top. That would probably work quite well! Any takers?
  4. I'd be concerned about the kick out, especially the right one. Also as high as those are it would dump into the firewall. If the engine is kept more forward there might be room to get it turned down. The engine bay is plenty long. I don't think they will work very well if the engine is held tight to the firewall for better car balance. With how short the Coyote platform is a front/mid engine setup should be possible with the strut towers about even with cylinders 1&2. My firewall is messy anyway so I'm going to set the engine right back into it and box a bit as necessary. I plan to do some shorty equal length headers. Reports I have seen show these engines really respond to a good exhaust and tune. Because the pulses are perfectly even side to side the Voodoo exhaust can be much less complicated and still have no compromise. If they don't flare too much, those manifolds might work well to get an engine in and running initially. You could always add headers.
  5. John, Keep up the good work! I enjoy following along on your progress. Very ingenuitive solutions you pull together for lots of this. I'm very interested to see how that HVAC turns out. Dave
  6. Tube80z and JMortensen are correct, there's no free lunch on this. The only place you might "cheat" a little are coilovers with the smaller diameter spring allowing a little more width and larger diameter wheels the same. I think you either optimize what's there with coilovers, camber plates etc. the best you can and deal with it or go the SLA direction and clean sheet. I am planning similar direction to tube80z but am even more pathetic on progress. I don't think I'll use the double joint lower but wouldn't rule it out. Minimizing the distance between the wheel mount surface and the pivot would help things out quite a bit. The SLA will require pretty much a complete new front subframe but since mine is a crusty mess and needs replaced anyway, why not? Sadly a new house/shop and Murphy living in my back pocket have prevented much of anything looking like progress.
  7. Nice! Beautifully executed, if that doesn't give you perfect regulation, I don't know what will.
  8. The desert race boys loosen up the star/ball clearance for more travel not the splines. They resort to finned housings to control heat and 300M cages to keep things from exploding. Spline fit stays tight. The shafts need to float somehow either in the splines captured at both ends by snap rings and a plunging style joint which is strongest/best/lightest if the application will allow it. The shafts can be stronger as the inside doesn't need a shoulder or snap ring which allows for zero stress risers in the stressed portion of the shaft. That method needs to be pretty minimal distance change. If memory serves correct maybe 1/2" but don't quote me on that. The other method has both splined ends captured. One non-plunging joint and one joint that has in and out travel like the tripod. Front outer steering joints travel/angle too much for a Rzeppa joint for example. Sloppy suspension design with lots of distance change can be an issue too.
  9. If it's loose on the splines I wouldn't even think about it. They need to back up their work.
  10. Sorry to hear about the problems. If the splines are loose on the stars, meaning you can twist the star on the splines - scrap metal. However, the stars sliding may not be a problem. If you look at the picture I posted above you can see that the splines are long and there is no shoulder inside. On the Porsche 930 style joints, in a non-steering application, at least one or both joints float on the shaft to allow for changes in length as the suspension cycles. The cups inside the joints need to allow for the movement. Basically the shaft floats between the two snap rings stopped from going "in" by the outer ring and going "out" by the inner. As long as lengths and clearances are correct and not binding it should work. On a cv/tripod setup, the tripod takes up the length change and the cv is set ridgid like those shafts you have. Tripods are heavy and weak but necessary in a steering application. Manufacturers sometimes use them as it can be a cheaper/less precise solution in the rear and they will take up substantially more length change. In that style the star needs to be contained as tripod will just slide out. Maybe an inner snap ring would do it if your second joint is a tripod. Food for thought anyway.
  11. It would be minor. Interesting on the DTM cars, I'll have to look at those. I'm interested to see how it works out for you.
  12. That Bosch setup is pretty cool BTW. Oh, and my vote is for hard lines on the brakes, even braided lines will give a bit and the firmer the pedal the better. I'm not sure what bender and flare tool you have but some work much better than others. Judging by the quality of the rest of the build, you'll do fine. Nice work on all this!
  13. There is a lot of information here that's not entirely accurate. A lot of opinions which is great too. The stock late model systems aren't exactly "dead-headed" at least as far as the pump is concerned. There is a return style regulator in the pickup box with the pump that returns off the extra pressure (above 58 psi theoretically) back into the sump the same as Ironheads setup (and mine below) just at a different point in these applications. Later models regulate pressure with PWM which is past what most of us are dealing with at this point. The direct inject engines are just lifting fuel to the high pressure pump so it's not really critical anymore with them as long as the supply is there - pressure that is. The vacuum port does vary the pressure, not sure what that would do to the engine program, I guess if you tune for it there could be an advantage. The big advantage comes with a boosted applications since you need the pressure differential for the injectors to spray properly and if you have say 20psi of boost then the injectors are really only spraying 38psi of difference. Hope that makes sense. The linked Aeromotive doesn't go on the return line, it creates the return by bleeding off pressure above the set point. I looks very similar to the one I have, much more money. Most of these will bleed off pressure to some degree, hence the pre-prime of the pump. It's a good habit to get into of key on - pause then start. I'm in the habit anyway from driving a diesel truck or my backhoe, etc. You want to give the glow plugs there a chance to do their job. Let the fuel pump prime the lines. This photo isn't the best of the regulator and I'll post up a different one if I can find it. Mine is a Russell as that is what I got the best deal on in a decent quality unit. Oil filled pressure gauge directly on the front so you can see exactly what's going on when running. I suppose the heat issue could be an advantage. I like that I can see and adjust pressure if necessary readily. I also like and feel that one big advantage is that the regulated pressure is as close to the demand as possible. It also shortens up the amount of line that is necessary for a burst in demand. You have ~90 psi ahead of the regulator or the capability to have that and then the excess bleeds off to leave the 58 psi. If you stab the throttle, the regulator at the manifolds stops dumping fuel immediately and the supply goes to the engine rather than taking 10 feet of line to get there. I have -8 to the engine and -6 return. I suspect that the in tank regulator has more to do with packaging and $ savings than with performance. I'm sure you can make it work fine but I'm more comfortable with where it's at on this application. I flared the SS fuel rail with an AN nut an backer with the regulator attached directly to the fuel rails. The early LS1 and truck versions actually bleed off at the fuel rail so even later than what I have set here. If you want the absolute best regulation, set it up at the back of those pretty fuel rails on your engine Ironhead. Full pressure in and bleed off the return at the back. Probably won't matter that much, but if your look for "best" there it is.
  14. That looks like nice shifter. I'll be interested to hear your thoughts on it. Did you go the 4" back version? As far as "Super" Magnum isn't that just the GM kit badging? I wasn't aware of any upgraded from the factory Magnum - all the Magnums are built to the same strength. 4 choices - wide or narrow ratio set, GM or Ford. I have a wide ratio Ford. I think the GM "Super Magnum" is a narrow ratio GM version. I know some shops REM and Cryo the units, add bronze shift pads, etc. and get better strength/high RPM shifting. I had some inside tracks when I traded/purchased mine and they gave me their specs for the upgraded units. Also, per Tremec tecs directly, the stock Magnum is designed to be pulled from the box, installed and run 700 lb/ft drag runs all day no problem. I'm thinking of opening mine up and give it the cryo (why not, it's pretty inexpensive) and more importantly the REM treatment so it will handle the high RPM shifts better along with the upgraded fork pads. That shifter looks like it would be pretty nice to get the location correct and be faster/more precise than the stock setup.
  15. BTW, any re-spline work is most likely going to be cut, not rolled. Rolling basically forges the spline into the shaft but is for much larger scale production and would be near impossible on the hardened stock. Moser would likely not have the reduced diameter on the shafts but again, price will be great for a custom shaft. For maximum strength, you need to step away from a lot of the stock pieces and prices go up. That's where the 930/934 CV pieces with corresponding stubs to hub and differential come into play. This is what DSS is doing for their super axles for the Mustang. HTH, Dave
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