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jpndave

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Everything posted by jpndave

  1. Here are a couple of links that may be of interest. https://www.espn.com/racing/nascar/icons/news/story?id=3060814 https://buildingspeed.org/2014/04/25/a-nascar-splitter-inspired-kayak/ https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/autocrossing-and-roadracing/3459143-tegris-and-splitters.html
  2. I have been looking at using Tegris for my cars splitter. Supposed to be much more durable than carbon and less expensive. I'll see if I can find my bookmarks on it. I think it's used on the NASCAR splitters.
  3. Yes looking great. She's a beauty! Love how the color turned out.
  4. Overall noise level "might" be higher than a more restricted or a chambered muffler but I much prefer the sound. I find it isn't opjectionable low RPM but a bit of bark when you step into the throttle and no drone/resonance. On the big LS in my JK where it's just a little loud a resonator should take care of it. Luckily there is more room to work with under there. With a turbo on the Duramax one muffler is enough.
  5. Maybe one of these then? https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers?muffler_body_length=121 The angle core deadens sounds a bit http://tuning.ua/en/sound I'm looking at doing something like this but it will be where the spare tire was exiting below the plate. https://www.borla.com/products/proxs-universal-muffler-400286
  6. I don't think the Aero turbine will fit. They are long.
  7. The super turbo is chambered with the radius bends to improve flow like 5th one down in that link. Still chambered still resonates every one I've heard. https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/super-turbo-mufflers
  8. I have this on my truck and Jeep. https://aeroexhaust.com/c-1389207-mufflers-aero-turbinexl.html I love how it works on the Truck in 4". JK is 3.5" and just a little loud (Colton likes the noise - kids 🙄) I'm going to add a small resonator when it goes back together. On my Z I'll do a SS Borla or equivalent dual in dual out (X in the middle of the muffler) if I can make it fit. Look for something with a core like a Borla. So on this page any except the chambered one (5th one down) https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/ A lot of muscle car guys like th
  9. Yes you want straight through but a good muffler. IMO the Borla is one of the best sounding but they are spendy. I like a more European sound if that makes sense. The drone I mentioned when we drove your car is the chambered muffler. That resonance drives me crazy and literally gives me a headache.
  10. @ZetsazSo on my phone will be quick. Don't get a turbo style muffler. Send that one back or cancel if you can. Get a Borla/Dynomax type. The turbo style is what is giving your resonance/droning.
  11. I have an AC hose crimp set should that need arise.
  12. If you are exploring alternative PVC sources look at DWV fittings (drain waste and vent). Actually central vacuum fittings might be a possibility as they are thinner (lighter) and actually 2" rather than iron pipe sizes. There are a few defroster duct options that have angled inlets.
  13. I was looking at ducts similar to some of these or equivalents. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ap/ducting.html
  14. If you can get some defroster ducts that enter from the side or as much angled over as you can. Better hoses would be a good idea too.
  15. https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=337/mode=cat/cat337.htm One option
  16. Nice! I love those simple classy controllers. If I didn't have my heart set on climate control I would for sure use that one.
  17. Make sure that the noises you are hearing are loose joints. Datsun wasn't concerned much about NVH at the time. If you remember when we were driving in you car I asked about the rear end noise you could hear on the highway, that has as bit of a clunk if you stand in and out of the throttle. The car has I direct connection engine to trans to duff to hub. Each of the gearsets has a bit of backlash and it can stack up. Worn U-joints can certainly add to that.
  18. I don't usually pry on things to check the joints. If you can see the joints rock the car back and forth in gear or jack it up and rock the wheel,car in gear park brake off. Look for movement between the cross and cup. As for CVS, @1969honda and I have a design semi solidified. We'll be using the extremely popular and common 930 CV. I just bought a CNC lathe to buld a lot of the custom pieces that may be necessary. So, that might be a good option too.
  19. If you are back down here anytime soon we can change them in my press in like 30 minutes.
  20. U-joints are super cheap like $10 ea. Pretty easy to swap. If/when you upgrade go CV/Rezappa joints for sure. I would just replace what's there if they need it and later go CV.
  21. OK so my OCD kicked in LOL. Jeep JK Unlimited - inside and out with 4, tailgate, doors no top ~ 204 (204/10 gallons = 20.4sq ft to the gallon) 240Z - inside and out 2 doors, hatch, roof & hood. ~ 147 (147/20.4 = 7.2 gallons) So educated guess the Z would need 7.2 gallons of SC/Ceramic Lizardskin combined to get the same deadening. I layed it down pretty thick on that Jeep. I think you are headed in the right direction with the Dynamat. Any news on the paint?
  22. That original deadening is pretty nasty. How much Lizardskin did you put on? You've got me rethinking my car on soundproofing. My JK is really nice but it has a fair amount of both sound control and the ceramic Lizardskin to the tune of about 10 gallons inside and out. I assume you are talking about the tinny/rattling sound when the doors close vs a Mercedes "thunk"?
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