bakerzxt

ok well the thing is i want to sell my 83 zx turbo and i had a set of seats in it but i took them out and put them in my 240z. But my mom threw my stock seats out and now i have no seats for the zx. so anything that would fit would be fine. thanks

I want to buy a pair of seats for a 280zx. i have a silver and blue car with a blue interior but let me kno what you got

So have you had the car dyno tuned yet. I want to see what kind of numbers you make.

Ok well I recieved my honda blower motor upgrade and installed it which took about 10 min. Now I am just waiting on the heater fan switch which I should have by tues. at the latest and then I will have heat. NICEE

Ok well I found a heater fan switch on ebay that I am bidding on right now. He says it is in perfect condition and it was tested so if I win that hopefully I will have heat by the end of the week. NICEEE.

Ok well I worked on my car a little before work yesterday and I found that there is still a connector then comes from the blower motor so I just need to find a switch or an orginal faceplate to put in b/c mine is just sheet metal with 2 gauges. If anyone has one i am interested. Lastly I want to test the blower motor to see if it works how would I be able to tell if it is working or not.

Today I will try and get some pictures of it. I will not be able to bring the car up sunday because I am going on a snowboarding trip this weekend.

Thanks for the link but i went through the 72 service manual and didnt find anything about the heating system for the car.

No I do not have any manuals for the car.

Ok I have a 72 240z and I do not have heat or defrost in the car.... Well everything is there but there is no dash controls to turn it on or anything. I drive the car everyday and it is so annoying to not have heat or defrost. I hope I am not repeating an old thread but i have searched and came up with no help for me. (If someone knows of an old thread copy the link) 1. I would be fine with just having a toggle switch or something just to turn the blower motor on but I do not know where the wires are. 2. I know there is a valve somewhere under the dash that controls how much coolant goes into the heater core but i cannot find it. Do I need to pull the dash to get to it or can someone let me know where it is. 3. Lastly how do you swich the heat from the vents to the defrost? Thanks

Ok well I have been reading through all of these posts about the cv axles and how people have had problems with the cv's binding. I have a 72 and I bought a clsd out of a z31. I also ordered the mm cv companion flange adapters for the 300zx cv's and I also ordered the mustache bar, front diff mount, and the brace kit for the finned diff cover from arizona z car and before I buy the cv's I want to make sure i order the right ones. What cv's should i buy? And what type of modification will i need to do to make it work? Thanks

Sorry if I started a thread that has been covered before. I just have not been able to find a lot about rb20det motors. I was curious what type of mode have to be done to make 400rwhp and a reliable motor to be daily driven and an occaisional trip to the drag strip.

Hi I have been researching about nissan rb motors for a couple of days now and I haven't had much luck on finding what are the capabilities on the stock internals for the nissan rb20 and rb25. I have seen some stuff some stuff on the rb26 but not that much about the others. I am lookin at a z that has an rb20det in it. My goal for a z when I get it is to make 400rwhp. What would i have to do to the rb20 to make that kind of power? thanks

You are making nice progress in your build. You will be able to make 250hp easily with your setup and the stock turbo. I have an 83zx turbo and I am not sure how much hp I am making but my friend has a e39 m5 that has 400hp at the crank and he has a couple mods like exhaust and I am dead even with him on a roll. The only things I have done to my car is an intercooler, rising rate fuel pressure regulater, a electronic boost controller, and I have the boost up to 14.5 lbs. So i think you will make your goal easily. Who will be tuning your car?

i have a 83 280zx turbo in new jersey. it is a manual. it has 164,000 miles miles on it. the turbo was replaced at 120,000 miles. i have fully upgragraded the suspension, with tokico illumina's struts in the front and tokico hp's in the rear. and tokico springs as well, msa sway bars, poly bushing kit. i have nismo racing seats installed that are sweet. the motor i added an intercooler and i rising rate fuel pressure regulater and run about 8psi. the car runs strong and the clutch was also recently replaced. it also has konig monsoon rims 16x7 all around. i was looking for 3000.

Ok well I changed the plugs and cranked it with the fuel pump disconnected and I got it started and running really rough. I connected the fuel pump back and it ran ok but when I took it for a test drive the car a zero power, it did not want to move or rev high at all. I know it was running really lean so I have been upping the fuel pressure and it sound a little better. Next thingI am going to do is check my fuel filter.

ok well today i started to work on my car again. i haven't felt like working on my car at all lately since 2 very close freinds of mine got into extremly bad car accident. i lost one and the other is in the hospital. well anyway i picked up some new plugs and i was just looking to disconnect the cold start injector until i remembered that turbos do not have one.

Ok well I got to do some more work on the car tonight. I tried to start it again and it started then died like it always does. Then I checked the distributor and a couple of the plug wires were loose so I put them on good and it ran for almost 20 seconds then died. So then I pulled the plugs and they were fuel soaked and I check underneath my car and there is a giant puddle of fuel that is dripping from my down pipe since it is open downpipe. So I distcontected power to the fuel pump after I waited for awhile and tried to start it since there was alot of fuel in the engine but still no success. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

I do not know what my fuel pressure is because i do not have a fuel pressure gauge. Everytime the car has been sitting for a while and I try and start it, it starts but only for like 2 seconds and then it just cranks after that. I can smell fuel so I do not think that fuel pressure is the problem. I think the problem might be that the motor isn't getting enough air.

Sorry... I did not realize that this was english class and I had to make sure that every word I write is spelled out perfect and that capitalization is a very big deal in a quick post. I just never knew that people cared so much about grammer errors. I am just used to Microsoft Word where it just capitalizes everything that needs to be capitalized, so I will try and change my ways of typing to make you guys happy. Anyway I changed out the one bad fusible link and now I have all of the power back in my car but it still starts and then just dies after a few seconds then I can not restart it. I most likely fried my ecu which I am looking for one right now so if anyone has one or knows where I can get one please let me know. Also is there a way to test most of the circuits just to make sure that there are no shorts in the wires because that is what the oringinal problem I was having. thanks

i have an 83 turbo. the other day my car was having a problem starting but then i got it started and it was fine. then later that night i was leaving dinner and i could NOT get it to start. but it wasn't like the battery ws dead i had the interior lights and digital gauges on and then when i turned the key evry thing went black and it didnt even crank. after ten minutes and a call to a friend to come and give me a jump it suddenly turned over before my friend got their. then it was fine for a couple start ups for the rest of the night. then the next morning there was nothing so i just figured the battery was dead. i went and got a new battery a couple days later and i was hooking it up at night and i was rushing and not paying attention and i accidentally hooked it up backwards "i guess i cant read braille lol". it was only hooked up for two seconds but i still got the fusible link box to smoke. i hooked up battery right and there is no power to anything. i got a test light and tested the fusible links and only one was dead. then i was testing the fuse box and all of the fuses are fine but there is no power going to most of the fuses. the headlight fuses are the only ones that have power but the headlight do not turn on. also my ecu get really hot to touch when the battery is just connected. and when the battery was hooked up over night with no power on the new battery was dead in the morning and i tested the old battery and it was fine. so i relized i have a really bad short somewhere. and my question is how should i test each circuit to find out which one is bad. thanks and sorry for the long post i just wanted to tell u all of the details to this problem.

yea i will take some pics for you. i have been working almost 60 hour weeks and i haven't even driven my car much since i fixed it. i think i will be off tmrw so i will take some pics in the morning and post them.

i have had similar problems with three different solutions on my 83 zx turbo. the first one i was getting evrytime it rained my car would not want to idle or dive at low rpms but would smooth out at high rpms and after awhile i figured out that i was getting condensation under my dizzy cap and this cause my car to run really bad until it was dry. the second time this happened my car would not idle good at all and would sputter and backfire in the intake and exhaust until 3000rpms then it always smoothed out and i found out that it was my air filter that was completly clogged up and that was causing it to run so poorly. and the third time it was more of the same thing that it would idle and i found out that it was just my timing was off about 20 degrees.

well i finally got some time to work on my car. and i dropped the diff and the tranny. i changed my clutch and put the tranny back up. and when i got to the diff i pulled the diff cover i discovered some bad news. the cross pin that holds the spider gears broke its retaining pin and the shaft moved back and for and make the hole oblong in the cast iron carrier. so that was the noise i was hearing. but whatever now i am just going to put an LSD in.