zdrift

i kno alot of ppl have a problem with understanding the swap from a s-130 to a s-30 and its very easy, but when you gat down and do it the wiring is a pain in the ass litteraly and ppl cant help and explain it so i will explain it so every one knos, ok so the main thing to kno when wiring in the harness is there are two seperate ones. One is the FI harness and the other is the igniton harness well all you have to do is connect the green and brown wires off of the FI harness to power ok, then hook up the EFI relay to 12v switched power right and this is the b/w wire and you connect that to the blue/red wire in the little plug bu the brown and green wire there is five wires in that one plug but only use the b/w and blue/red, now for the ignitor and ignition harness only use the b/w wire again and the yellow wire, and DONT cut the yellow/white wire that goes to your ignitor, so the yellow wire goes to the starter signal wire, and the b/w goes to the blue/red wire and thats it, an easy way is br and g go to 12v, b/w from ignitor and from EFI relay go to blue/red wire and then hook up your own fuel pump relay, and it will work ill post pics later

hey i have the same problem too can i get some help, my computer wont stay on while cranking the motor and the car fires up but dies and then the computer will come back on, need help asap pleeese

is there any beter wiring diagrams of the turbo conversion?? maybe some pics of were someone hooked theres up to?? thanks

i just did a turbo swap from a 83 280zxt to my 71 240z and for some reason its not running, i got all the info from here by bumble zee, and followed his instructions but some of it wasnt right, so i did some thinking and asked a couple of ppl who have done it and finally got it to fire, see the problem im having now is, the motor turns over and sparks, it fires up and then dies this happens every time for about 2 seconds it will run and then die, the thing i noticed is that the computer light shuts off as im cranking the engine, then comes back on after it fires up and dies, so my question is does the computer need to stay on all the time even while in cranking the motor over????

ya thats what mine did too, i would have your valves adusted first then have the timing checked, and then clean out your carbs and sync them together, if it still does it than you have a different issue cause my car would run just like yours if i have the choke on it ran fine but wasted hella gas, and if i didnt it would be slow and have no power and also backfire. also check your oil and se if it smells like gas cause another common problem is the valve stem seals go bad and alow oil and gas to flow between them, and that also causes bad gas milage.

sorry that was smoked the tires

try having the valves adjusted my 260z was the same and i had the valves and timing and carbs all adjusted for 100 dollars and after that it was so quick when i took off it somed the tires, so its prolly your valves, and check your timing and then sync your carbs thats all i can think. also does it pop or backfire if you give it too much gas or floor the gas pedal??

i have an 1983 zxt harness and from your pics of yours it does differ a little cause there is no dropping risitors for the injectors on mine and also the igniton harness plug to the fi harness is different yours has a 6 prong were the 83 has a 8 prong but i dont think is too hard im just wondering if you kno what color wires ill nee to cut and not to cut for the igniton harness cause for the most part the wire colors are the same.

hey 1 fast z i was wondering do you have a link on what heads you were using cause thats what i wanna build and im looking into it but kinda new to it

how would i wire that gm module in, i just want to wire in my 280zx dizzy cause i took off the 280zx ignition module and the red and green wires are behind it so i extended them and now looking how to hook them up to the msd-5

i have an msd-5 and was wondering if any one else has used one and if you can convert the original point breaker system and use a 280 electric dizzy on it or do i still have to convert the whole car??? so below is the stuff i have and if anyone else has done this and knows what ill need or what to use please let me kno, cause i want to go with electronic igniton 1980 280zx dizzy msd-5 igniton box msd igniton coil also is there a way to bypass the ballist risitor?? or do i have to use it?

anyone kno anything about a e-30 head and block?? it came off this l-20 motor i have and its got fuel injection ports but it say e-30 on it, also any one kno were i can pick up one of those dohc heads for a l28 or l28et, cause im looking for a sw20 head or complete motor

ya i found it was a loose connection on the harness and im gonna try to see if its fixable cause im not sure how far down it it, hey does anyone kno were i can find a sw20(ps30) motor cause im dying for one, actually just the head....trying to build a crazy s30 motor

well guys im really kreeped out cause i havent driven it in a couple of days and i started messing with it this moring and when i started it it ran perfect, it smelled like it was a little rich, but it was the same smell that it origanally smelled like when i first got it, but all i did was checked all the plugs on the temostat housing, but it did die down a few times but not once did it turn off i drove it around and it seemed ok, so ill check all my connections and sparkplug gappings, but thanks for everything guys ill keep you up dated on the status and if it still has problems

i have the web site were you can find out how to make your own, and it shows you how to fab it and what you will need.

ya thats what every one keeps saying, do you think it might be the sensor? cause i kno the wires are fagile and i did change the fan and fan clutch so maybe i knocked it loose or part of the wire broke?? ill check that tho, and see

well if you want then why not do a (ps30)/ l20 motor?? cause it seems thats what your looking for, i want one if any one know how to get a hold of one let me kno??? please

ya but tuning carbs is a pain and all the work of balancing them and they dont have as much throttle response as FI, but i guess if you love carbs and have someone to tune them for free or cheap than its a go, but i would consider all the facters of carbs vs the FI setup and go from there.

im pretty sure i did but ill dobble check, im buying a new mass air flow meter and checking the fuel injection relay, do you guys think it might be my dizzy?

ok so i found out that the firing order was right and the reason is something that inter links with the map sensor/ air meter i messed with it and got the car to run i dont know if its the fuel pump or the meter or the computer or what but what happens is the car will run and idle fine then it will get to much fuel and then when i run it again it will run fine for a few seconds and then it would get too much air and not enough fuel, what do you think it is guys??

well i did due that and ill check it again but i wanna see what else it might be????

i think you should go foward with it but tuning triples are a pain, if you dont know how, thats what i was gonna do to my turbo motor for my z and do the FI conversion, it wouldnt be hard to fab somthing to fit the manifoild to the rb26 head, you just gotta find a place that makes metal plates, the only reason why i would go with the tripples ITB is cause more air and fuel= more hp but the reason why i would go with them tripples and FI is cause you can not only eliminate the hassale of tuning carbs but if you think about it you can put some 550 or 770 injectors in it and keep it a ITB n/a motor and if you want, with the turn of a wrench and a new manifoil gasket you can easily mount a turbo or twin turbo setup on it, that was gonna be my conversion for my turbo cause its a easy way to stay n/a and have hp or go turbo and have crazy hp =) but if you really want to do it i would go to google.com and type in tripple weber fuel injection and it will bring up the web site that sells all the stuff you need to make it happen captin, good luck! >< -

ok so i checked and these are the problems that i kno 1 runs and drives but wont go, more gas i give it the less it wants to go 2 i can hear all the injectors firing really loud like, i mean they sound like ticking valves i know you can set a screwdriver against them and put your ear up to the handle to see if there working...in this case you dont need to 3 i have two remanfactured map/air sensor meters and if i plug in one the car runs like crap but stays running untill i throttle it, and if i plug the other one in the car runs fine but then dies after 5 sec or less 4 i can smell the rich mixture of gas and it seems like im not getting enough spark or ones not firing, i changed everything, spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and coil, now if i put the coil on back wards the car still does the same thing and runs like crap, so even if i try swaping the coil wires it doesn't help 5 the last thing is i know the water pump is warped and havent changed it but someone said something about water and temp sensors, and i dont know if that would do it, but the car doesn't overheat. i dont know if it helps at all but i hope that this is useful to finding a cure for my baby, cause i want to drive it and make it run right, thanks for all the help guys!!!

so i thought i would do a tune up on my 76 280z and i changed the sparkplugs and coil and all of a sudden it runs like crap, what happened it ran perfect before and now i cant seem to find out what is wrong with it, so i changed the cap rotor and wires as well still runs like crap i changed the air flow meter and it runs fine for like 5 seconds and then it cuts out, i wonder if i wired the coil backwards or is it the air and fuel system and should i start replacing things??? help me please:iospalo:

no i have the entire setup straight out of a 1980 280zx the whole thing except the intake manifold is out of a 75, 280z im gonna check everything tonight, any more suggestions if its not any of those?