PaulR

I used the following circuit to control the lock-up on my 700R4 trans. http://www.geocities.com/paul_richer/trans_schem.pdf When I want to engage the lock-up, I push the button (switch 1), and the converter locks and stays locked, unless I apply the brakes. If I push the brakes, the converter unlocks and stays unlocked until I push Switch 1 again. The toggle switch disables the circuit completely (converter never locks). The idicator lamp turns on when the lock-up is engaged. I've been using it for about a year now and I think its pretty usefull. Paul

Adam (and anyone else interested), From the Z-Car Club of Washington's activities page: http://www.zccw.org/Club/Activity.html It's August 17-19, and yes, everyone is invited. Paul quote: Originally posted by madmanadam:

As you can see, I'm using a "no-frills" strut bar... a straight piece of polished stainless steel tubing (boat railing stock) with the ends flattened and drilled to mount to the forward most strut stud. This was described in my JTR manual (1st edition). Cheap but effective Paul

If you try to slide the rod as close to the crank as possible is there is still a gap between the rod and crank? (is that maybe the .005 gap you were refering to?) The rod should be able to slide up tight to the crank. If it doesn't, I would bet that Terry (BlueOval) called it correctly and the rods are in backwards. The "tang" on the bearing should face outward. ie, the tang the rod for cylinder 1 would be on the same side as cylider 1 (front drivers side).

>Looks great Paul....BUT what's the ole butt dyno tell you ! >You getting that 1%/10 degrees? Any before engine bay temp readings? No didn't take any temp readings, but it does seem a bit more responsive. I had always notice that the car seemed faster on cool mornings and got a bit soggier as outside temps went up... so I figure this couldn't hurt >You doing Pt. Townshend this summer? Looks like that might be one event I'll make. For Sure... I like the Port Townsend meets... a great mixture of ZEE's and ZED's

Awhile back, there was some discussion regarding ram-air to help get cooler air into the carburetor. I was looking at buying one of the units from www.ramairbox.com but it didn't look like theirs would clear my front strut bar. I decided to try and make my own and with a little junk yard scrounging and a few pieces from the hardware store, I came up with this: http://www.geocities.com/paul_richer/Z8_RamAir.html And it was a lot cheaper too!

I ran across the following site that sells Cobra R wheels: http://www.performancewheeloutlet.com The interesting thing I noticed was that they have some BIG sizes (like 17x10.5 and 18x9) in 4-lug as well as 5 lug! The 4-lug is described as "for earlier Mustangs". Aren't those the same bolt pattern as a Z? (I'm not sure).Prices are pretty good too (ie, $185 for silver finish 17x10.5) If the bolt pattern and backspacing of theses wheels are right, they could be a good alternative. Paul

Its not obvious to me why the companion flange couldn't be bolted to the CV adapter instead of welding it. Is there enough "meat" in location of the 4 companion flange holes to have tapped holes in the CV adapter to accept bolts?

quote: Originally posted by TimZ: Looks like their club must have had a dyno day. You missed a couple others - a purist car whose only mods were 'period correct' that made ~107rwhp (which is fine - sounds like bone stock was what he wanted), and a nice looking 5.7l V8 that made 240rwhp. Hey! That would be me! http://zccw.org/Club/MembProfile/PaulR/details.htm Yes, our club has put on 3 dyno days up to now. I have to admit, I expected higher numbers for my set-up (Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam intake, carb, flat-top pistons, etc). Edelbrock advertises this package at 420HP (flywheel). I'm sure I can get more with some tuning, but 420HP minus 20% for drivetrain loss is about 340HP at the rear wheels... I doubt I'll find that much. I have to admit that I was totaly impressed by a late model Toyota Supra at the last Dyno day we had... over 500HP at the rear wheels! (Big turbo and lots of boost) [This message has been edited by pricher (edited February 07, 2001).]

The data I have says that the LSD was added to the turbos after build date 4/1987. Maybe that one has an earlier build date? Does it have a finned cover? (the LSD units do) Paul

One thing I was wondering is if this new rack will clear the harmonic balancer on a Chevy V8 swap? Mine (JTR set up) comes real close to the stock Datsun rack. Looks like you have (or will have) a Ford... and Terry's write-up on the T-Bird rack was for a Ford set-up as well. Do the Ford set-ups have more clearance? I was looking at using a T-Bird rack and I'm pretty sure I would have to cut the brackets off the front crossmember and weld new brackets on to get it low enough to clear.

I've seen references here to people re-drilling the rear flange from 4-bolt to 5-bolt. I took a look at the flange on my 240Z and I am wondering if there is enough "meat" to do this. I generated the attached drawing (to scale) and as you can see, 2 of the new stud locations are only about 1/8 inch from the flange edge. I would appreciate any comments or feedback from anyone who has already done this as I would like to do the same. Paul

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Sure, a $10 solenoid is hardly a tough band-aid to apply, and if it helps alleviate the heat soak problem (it historically has) then it should be one of the first lines of defense. I've found two other reasons I like the remote solenoid: 1) It makes it real easy to hook up a remote starter switch. 2) It gives you a good place to hook up any direct battery connections, like a MSD ignition and Flex-a-lite electric fan. (they use both direct battery and switched battery connections)

quote: Originally posted by Frank280z: I'll try the remote sel. and see if that cures it....hopefully. Frank For what its worth, I had a heat soak problem. I added a heat shield on the starter and still had the problem (maybe not as bad). I then added a remote solnoid (Ford style, around $10) and the problem went away.

I'm trying to find out if there is any advantage in the short vs long waterpump set-up. I have a short aluminum pump that uses spacers to position it at the long pump's location. Since I plan to replace my pulleys (I'm the one that's been throwing fan belts) I figured I could easily go either way. I am using an electric cooling fan, so locating a mechanical fan is not an issue. Thanks for your help. Paul

OK, just saw the 0-60 posts in the "I'm tellin' ya" forum. 4.51 sec is pretty impresive!

I like the emblems... of course I'm biased because that what I've got. I gave up the sleeper look when I added the rear fender flares and fat tires anyway.

I am running 2.5" Eibach 175 lb/in, 10 inch free length. This is probably as stiff as I would like for a daily driver, stock springs are about 110 lb/in. I simply use a piece of 2.5" (I think that's the dia) exhaust pipe cut to length as a spacer to support the threaded sleave. Just slips over the strut housing after removing the stock spring perch. The new lower spring perch sits just above the tire (275-50-15), so this allows me to run a wheel with 5.5" backspacing. I'm not running alot lower than stock, so I haven't had any problem with the struts bottoming out. quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: I am planning on installing a set on the rear primarily to get wheel/tire clearance for eventually stuffing bigger meats in the fenders.

I'm curious, what kind of 0-60 times were you getting? I've been getting around 4.6 sec measure with my G-Tech. BTW, 6/10 is quite an improvement! quote: Originally posted by MYRON: I bought a g-tech pro and started to fine tune my car. After playing with the 0-60 times and adjusting the jetting and timing I trimmed 6/10ths of the time.

You know what? Now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure it was a Mustang II rack & pinion. Hope I didn't "steer" anybody wrong. (sorry about that) Paul

I saw a Z that had a Power steering R&P retrofitted from a Chevy II front end. Required welding mounting points to the Z's front crossmember so that the rubber "doughnuts" on the Chevy R&P were used. Also required some custom fabrication for the tie-rod ends, but I don't remember the details. Obviously, you could use a Chevy pump with this set-up, but I think he was using a Nissan one (stock L6 engine). The Chevy II parts are pretty commonly used for Hot Rods and kit cars, so there are a lot of aftermarket parts available.

Will the TrickFlow heads even fit on a 305? I thought the biggest valves that would clear the small dia bore of a 305 would be 1.94" and that the 2.02" used in most performance heads would hit the cylinder wall. I know that TrickFlow has repositioned the valves so maybe they've solved that problem. I would make sure before spending $900 on them though.

Since I put a new 350 in my 240Z, I've been having problems keeping the fan-belt on. It often (not always) flys off on hard launches as the rev's hit about 6000 in first to 2nd shift. I am using a stock V-belt set-up with no accessories, ie just the crank pully, water pump and alternator (stock passenger side location). I am not running a fan off of the water pump (electric). I have double checked the alignment and tension and they both look good. Is this a common problem for Chevys? Any suggestions for solutions? Thanks. Paul

I have run both a Performer and Performer-RPM w/ Holly 600 and 750. I use a low profile (dropped) aircleaner and stock hood. The RPM is about .75 inch taller than the Performer. I am running the JTR setup INCLUDING the .5 inch frame rail spacers. The RPM might not fit without them. Paul quote: Originally posted by ZR8ED: Which will fit under the stock hood? I'm concerend with clearance, and don't want to change or cut my hood. I will be getting an aluminum one..edelbrock seems to be fairly cheap and plentiful... BTW with a 650 holly carb. Scott.