PaulR

I have bled the brakes and have a firm pedal, though I haven't road tested it yet. Note that my MC is quite a bit higher than the stock location, so that could be why I don't have the issue you're concened about. To be honest, I hadn't thought about that

Thanks for the tip. Yes, I plan on adding shields and insulating wrap in a number of places... including the Master Cylinder. I have a ways to go yet before I fire it up.

Hi Dave, I just posted this info in a new thread. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141815 Paul

I had some inquiries about this on another post, so I thought I would post a separate summary of a mod I did to remote-mount my Master Cylinder (MC) reservoir. I needed to do this because the stock ones were going to interfere with one of the twin turbos I am mounting on my 350 Chevy V8 (more on this in a future post ) First I used "Tilton Remote Inlet Fittings" from Pegasus Racing: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1117 Turns out the Tilton MC reservoir flanges are the same diameter as the Z MC and these adapters fit perfectly They are only $3.80 each. (need 2) I also bought 2 new clamps, but the stock ones should work fine. You could also buy new reservoirs from Pegasus, but with a little looking around in the local Pull-A-Part I found a reservoir from a Mitsubishi Eclipse (also used in Mirages, and Gallant) would work even better. It has a large capacity, dual outlets and even the lines that came with it worked great after clipping about an inch or so off. This reservoir even has a low fluid level switch that could be wire up if you wanted to (didn't do that yet). I kept the bracket that Mitsubushi used to mount it to the firewall and "massaged" it a bit to mount it under the drivers side access panel. Hope this helps anyone else who might need to do the same. Paul

I like your idea of installing it where you can adjust it from inside. FYI, I installed mine near the master cylinder. I can adjust it by opening the access door on the drivers side. I disconnected the line that goes from the MC to the rear brakes and re-attached it to the output of the proportioning valve. I then installed a new, short line from the PV to the MC. I replaced the stock PV with a union that came with the kit from Flyin Miata.

I purchased the Flyin Miata Wilwood Proportioning Valve kit to install in my 240Z and it fit perfect. These adapters are the ones you need. I had found some other adapters from another source that I thought would work, but turns out they were for BUBBLE flares. Here is the email I got from them before I purchased: > -----Original Message----- > From: Richer, Paul > Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 10:35 AM > To: Keith Tanner > Subject: Item Number: 14-76240 Complete adjustable brake > proportioning kit > > > Item Number: 14-76240 Complete adjustable brake proportioning kit > > I would like to install this kit in a Datsun 240Z and need > to verify that the metric adapters are for metric INVERTED > flare fittings (not bubble Flare). Is that correct? > > > > Best Regards, > > Paul Richer -----Original Message----- From: Keith Tanner Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 9:57 AM To: Richer, Paul Subject: RE: Item Number: 14-76240 Complete adjustable brake proportioning kit Yes, with a 10x1 thread pitch. We can sell the parts individually if you don't need them all. Keith Tanner Flyin' Miata http://www.flyinmiata.com 1-800-FLY-MX5s (orders) 1-970-464-5600 (tech)

Nice and clean installation. Where did you get the new lines? I'm planning to do the same since I need more room for a turbo down pipe that gets close to the stock front brake line. PaulR

When I first installed a Holley "red" pump, it was real loud. I then mounted it to a bracket and mounted the bracket to the chassis using these isolators from McMaster Carr. Made a big difference (but I can still hear it) http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/enter.asp?pagenum=1218

I just bought a Hobart Handler 175 thru Harbour Freight for $549 2 weeks ago (free shipping and no sales tax)! I was going to get the 135 (110V) which was on sale for $469, but I figured since I had the 220 outlet already in the shop, I would go for the extra amps in case I ever need them. Looks like that sale is over since they now have it listed at $599. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42338

I remember doing a lot of hammering to clearance the tunnel for the 700R4. Not just for the tranny, but also for the exhaust that runs down each side. And I had to make a little extra room for the dip-stick tube up near the top. I agree with Mark, plan on several trial fits to get things right. Paul

Thanks for the torque info! Another trivia question Is it a good idea to use a gasket sealer (like Permatex or RTV) on the cover gasket? When I went to remove the original cover, it was stuck really good! there didn't seem to be any evidence of sealer and I have no reason to believe it had ever been removed before, but I don't know for sure. BTW, have just completed the install of a NISMO LSD carrier into this diff. Hope to have it back on the road soon. Paul

Hi, Hoping someone has the torque specs handy for the 12mm ring-gear bolts used on the R200. I have a 280ZX manual that specs the 10mm ?? bolts at 43-51 ft-lb, but I assume the 12mm bolts are different. As usual, thanks in advance. Paul

My understanding is, yes, if you have an R200 case and gears, you can use a NISMO LSD carrier designed for your 10mm or 12mm ring gear. But, realize that getting the correct gear mesh and backlash is not a trivial matter. A good diff shop should be able to do the install for (from what I've heard) about $100. I'm adventurous, and plan to try it myself If your R200 is out of a 75 280Z, it is most likely a 10mm style ring gear. My R200 is from an 84 300ZXT and is definitly a 12mm. You can check by removing the rear cover to see if the bolt heads are 14mm hex (10mm bolt) or 17mm hex (12mm bolt) They also list this one for a 10mm R200 http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=z31_nismo_limitedslip Sorry, I don't know what the difference is. Probably should call them. OK, while I'm at it, the web site describes these LSD's as being set-up with approx 70 ft-lb break-away torque. How does this compare with an OEM '87-89 LSD. Is this a reasonable amount for a street driven car? Paul

Anyone using the LSD carrier from Nissan Motorsports (NISMO)? Courtesy Nissan lists it for $731.50 http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=38420-RS660_Z31&Category_Code=z31_nismo_limitedslip and has both a 10mm and 12mm version. With used LSD's going for $500 and up (I know they used to be around $300, but I've been watching eBay for several months and seen several go for over $600), seems like a better way to go, ie all new clutches & discs. Anyway, this is the route I plan to take. BTW, any good references on how to install one of these units would be appreciated Paul

Yes I am, 700R4, so shifter location was not an issue for me. Paul

I'm using something similar. It's a thick-walled steed tubing I found a local scrap yard. It measures approx .850 OD and .450 ID (.200 wall thickness) I simply band sawed 3 for each side and slid them over the bolts as I mount the set-back plates to the block. No need to weld them to the plates since they can't go anywhere once bolted into place. Been set-up that way for several years now. BTW, I modified the design of the set-back plates to give me another 1/2" of nominal set-back. I did this because I am using a small diameter (Late model, computer controlled HEI) distibutor, which is the limiting factor for set-back distance. 1/2" isn't much, but it was easy to do, so why not Paul

Another data point: I pulled an R200 from an '84 300ZX Turbo today and it had the 12mm bolts. I recently bought a NISMO LSD carrier and needed a 12mm style ring gear to work with it. The R200 I already had from a 280Z used the 10mm bolts. One caveat, this diff I just pulled at a local Pull-A-Part yard had some yellow paint marks (illegible) like those commonly found on used parts, so it may not have been an original. Paul

Hey Silicone Boy, any updates your TT installation? I picked up a set of those Corvette manifolds and really like the way they fit when mounted "up-side-down". Looks like you came up with a very neat solution. Did you have any trouble welding the turbo flange to the manifold? I'm not an expert on welding, but I thought welding to cast iron was difficult to do. BTW, I've also seen aftermarket replacement (bolt in) tube style headers for these manifolds. Hooker (pn 2061) and SLP (Part No.: 30056) both make them and sell for about $350 to $400. Quite a bit more expensive, but they may flow a little better and be easier to modify/weld. Keep up the good work! Paul

I thought it was a well written series of articles. I couldn't find the 2nd issue on-line either, so I ended up going to the Library to copy it from an issue they had on the shelf.