PaulR

I ran a Pertronix Ignitor II in a points style distributor and used it to trigger a MSD-6AL. Worked great! The following wiring diagram from Pertronix's tech info shows how to hook it up:

Hanns, Beautiful installation! I figured a pair of turbos would fit nicely up front of the V8. Which turbos are you using? Did you make the exhaust manifolds from scratch? I would love to see some pics of the manifolds if anyone has them.

I bought a Canon A70 after my Coolpix 850 that I had for 2+ years was stolen (house buglary). I like the A70 camera, but I had a bad experience with it. The motor drive in the optical unit went bad, so I had to send it in for Warrantee repair. They told me it would be 10 days at the most. 6 weeks and many phone calls later I finally got it back! They kept telling me that since it was such a new model, they were having trouble getting parts from the factory because they needed them to build new units. Anyway, nice camera, but reliabilty and customer service are, IMHO, in question.

17x9 front 17x10.5 rear

I made mine out of sections of thick-wall steel tubing, one for each of the 6 mounting bolts (3 per side). I bought the tubing at a local metal scrap yard for very little money. The tubing measures 7/16 ID and 7/8 OD. I cut them on a horizontal band saw, but a hacksaw and vise is all you would need.

I tried your experiment with the same results. I noticed that the dates only went back as far as Feb 15... the day of the switch to this new BB software?

Power Steering!! Not a big deal for highway cruzing, but it sure makes parking a whole lot easier... 'specially with the bigger tires, smaller steering wheel and quick ratio steering arms. I can now parallel park with one hand

Hi Tom, Here are a couple pictures I took of your car at the show in Everett last summer... good luck with the business:

No, I didn't. I've got too many other projects going so I didn't want to try to engineer a swap from scratch. I was hoping someone else might have figured it out. First glance looks like it could be done, but as they say, "the devil's in the details".

I'm in the process of plumbing a Holley Commander 950 into my '71 Z w/ 350 Chevy engine. I am replacing the 4 barrel carb I now have with a TBI unit. The carb is currently fed using a Holley red (6psi) fuel pump mounted near the stock tank. My plan is to mount a surge tank in the engine compartment and use the Holley red pump to feed the surge tank via the stock Z line and then pump out of the surge tank with the high pressure pump to the TBI unit via 3/8 line with a 5/16 return line back to the surge tank. My question is: Do I need to have another return line from the surge tank back to the gas tank? I am guessing that I don't, because the Holley red pump seemed to work fine on the carb without a return line, and worse case it mould pressurize the surge tank to 6 psi. I've also heard that this pump actually likes some back pressure to work against. There is a small (1/4"?) vent line to the engine compartment... maybe I could use that as a return line. Your comments and opinions are, as always, appreciated. BTW, here are a couple of pictures of the surge tank I just made. Any guesses what I made it from??

OK, back to the original topic I just used the discount code (M26100) to save $135 off the price of a Holley Commander 950 TBI system. Remember, good till Dec 31. Paul

Pull-A-Part in South Everett, just N of 128th on Hwy 99. Yes, their parts are very inexpensive. There is another Pull-a-Part in Lynnwood on Hwy 99 w/ same prices.

Anyone try to make a Toyota Supra differential work in a Z? I just came from the Pull-A-Part yard and saw 2 of them there. One was a build date of May '85, the other was a similar vintage. They have a finned rear cover, use CV jointed half-shafts, and have a sticker that says "use LSD oil only", which imlpies limited slip, right I couldn't turn the wheels to verify LSD or ratios. The yard wants $30 for the diff and $20 for each half-shaft. Anyway, I seached the archives and didn't see anything. Even if I could make it fit, any opinions as to whether or not this diff vould hold up behind a healthy V8? Thanks, Paul

The 17x10.5 wheels are 28mm offset and have a 6.8" backspace.The 17x9 wheels are 24mm offset and have 5.9" backspace. In the front, I am using the 300ZX hubs ('86) and rotor spacer that Ross describes. I am not using a wheel spacer in the front. On the rear I re-drilled for 5 lugs and use a 1.25" bolt-on spacer. I got my wheels from www.performancewheeloutlet.com , but there are lots of other aftermarket suppliers for this style wheel. Performance Wheel doesn't get high marks from me for customer support, but in the end, everything worked out. Pick up one of the Mustang enthusiast magazines next time you're at the grocery store and thumb thru it if you what to see who else makes them.

Have you looked at the aftermarket Mustang Cobra "R" wheels? The ones in my sig picture are 17x10.5 rear and 17x9 front. The nice thing is that they are 5 on 4.5 and the fronts fit perfect if you use the 300ZX hubs (ie, no spacers or flares) and coil-overs. The rears are re-drilled and use spacers (1.5" I think) with coil-overs and 1.75" flares. Mine are painted, but chromed or polished are also options. Paul

Yup, here's my version Paul's Diff Mount Mod

Well, here's an update: I tried the Napa 7369 hose and didn't like the fit... so I had the local Napa store order the 8948 hose. I just installed it and it was a much better fit. So, the bottom line is use the Napa 8948 lower hose with a Giffin radiator and a SBC in the JTR position.

Yeah, it kinda weird sometimes... I was planning to replace the lower hose today and had already done the research and found the info from Brian's site. Then, I just saw this post as I was having my morning coffee before going out to my shop (the building in the background of my sig)! BTW, I did a quick look on napaonline and their p/n for the Gates 20608 is 7369 and it does include the inner coil.

On this site: Brians Garage The author states "I ended up using a Gates/ECR p/n 20608 for the lower hose and a Gates/ECR p/n 7368 for the top hose. I had to cut a little off of each of these hoses. Note that the 20608 should work for a Chevy in the "Set-Back" position also." Paul

Sure... I would still like to try and figure out if using the original control module could be done. Thanks Pete. Paul

I picked up a Taurus fan and Relay module from the local Pull-A-Part and I am hoping I can figure out how to wire things up using the OEM module. (Pete, I think I rember you mentioning in another post that you might have a schematic for the OEM fan control circuit. If you do, could you scan a copy for me?) The relay module has a 24 contact connector going to it! I can figure out some of the wiring without a schematic, but there are still a bunch of wires that I don't have a clue where they go. I figure that connecting the appropriate ones to +12 and ground will switch the relays the way I want. That way I can take advantage of both the high and low speeds. Anyway, if I figure it all out, I promise to post a detailed description for others to use. BTW, the module has 4 large relays in it, so like Pete, they've probably paralleled them up for the high current.

You're right. Searching "ALL" doesn't work either. Maybe because that routine searches the Chevy board first?

I can't get a search to work in the "Chevy V8Z Tech Board" forum. All I get is a blank page. Searching the other forums seems to work fine. Is it just me, or has anyone else seen this too?

OK, have to chime in with my version. Its similar to the angle iron approach, but instead, I folded up a "U" channel out of 1/4" plate to catch both sides. I also added a rubber pad between this bracket and the bottom of the cross-member: I made the rubber pad from an old 240Z engine mount that I cut up with a hack-saw. Here it is mounted to the cross-member: I carved away part uf the U-Channel to clear my 3" exhaust. Here is everthing installed (from the rear looking forward)

I recently built a DIY-WB using the Honda sensor and the Oz kit and thats exactly what I am using it for... tuning my carb. Its great because I can tune all the circuits including WOT. I am running a Edelbrock Performer 750 and what I have found is that the jetting was way too rich out of the box. I have gone 4 stages leaner on the primary jets and 3 stages leaner on the secondaries. I am now running near stoich (14.7) at cruise and about 11.5 at wot. still a little fat at wot but I think I'll leave it there to be safe. Anyway, very handy as a tuning tool and it cost about $200 for the kit and the sensor. I am simply using a DVM for the display, but I plan to build one of the 40 LED bar graphs that are available as kits too. Also looking into this $25 data-logger: Dataq