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XplosiveLugnut

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About XplosiveLugnut

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 05/03/1991

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huntsville, Alabama
  • Interests
    Had mine since 12/25/13.

    Built December '70. It now has a Maxima 5 speed and mostly new wiring.

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  1. Thanks for the replies. Was expecting email notifications. Forgot to check that box. Thanks for the spline count info. I didn't plan on mixing axles and flanges, but that's good to know. I'll end up with aftermarket axles eventually, but I guess I'm going to try my luck at least once. I'll be happy if I get 2 or 3 years out of a used axle.
  2. I let a stub axle nut get loose and the splines now have quite a bit of back lash. That's what I get for not checking it. Ever. Definitely not comfortable hammering on it. Any 240/260/280Z axle/companion flanges will work for me. The later the better though. If you have a pair of axles/flanges and would prefer to sell them together, I'll take both. Never hurts to have a spare. Thanks!
  3. Ah, thank you. That was the type of thread I was looking for. Wouldn't have thought to get an axle magnafluxed before just slapping it in there. Will want an aftermarket solution eventually I suppose.
  4. When uninstalling/reinstalling the diff, I noticed the passenger side axle companion flange rotated independent of the axle while loosening the bolts. I could pretty easily rotate it back and fourth by hand a couple degrees or so. The axle nut was still staked in place, but had definitely lost its clamping force. I could clamp the axle down with a new nut, but with as much play the splines now have, I'm thinking this axle is toast and would be too risky to continue using. Wouldn't want it to snap during a launch. Does anyone agree? Is it likely the axle wasn't installed properly? (I have never disassembled the passenger side axle, so I wouldn't know) Should a fresh install with a new nut torqued down to 230+ ft lbs be fine? Would it be wise to inspect the axles after each autocross? Thanks in advance!
  5. I'd go for the locking type just because it's the cheapest option by a large margin. I'd never use the lock, so the fact that the lock wouldn't have worked isn't a big deal. Thanks though, too bad it's not available.
  6. Got some gas bummed off me at the station. Sufficiently distracted, I drove off with the cap on the spoiler. Sucks to loose it after owning the car for four and a half years. I was doing so good. Needs to fit a '70. It doesn't need to be the "correct" one. I can handle the shipping by emailing the seller a FedEx label if desired. I get it the fastest/cheapest that way. I'll need box dimensions, weight and an address. PayPal would be nice, but I'll mail a check if I have to. Thanks! -Gonna chain the next one down...
  7. Thanks for the feedback! Still thinking about it, but I'm leaning towards KevvinG's solution. I know I've thought about doing exactly that at one point. I don't think I liked that the trigger wheel was held on with two bolts or that it wouldn't be located easily with only two bolts. But if it's been done successfully, it seems like the easiest way to do it. Did you go to any great pains to make sure the trigger wheel had no runout? I really like the flywheel method too. It'll be perfect for my other project that's in a million pieces, but I'm in no hurry to take the flywheel back off my current driver. It's also aluminum, so there'd be a few more steps involved. And that might not even be a good idea to begin with.
  8. So the damper on my 240 has separated about half an inch. Glad it didn't fly apart before I noticed, that would've gotten expensive. Some considerations for replacements: I've been wanting a crank trigger wheel to start working on a distributor-less ignition/EFI project and it needs two rows for AC. I figure I've got 4 options: * Buy a used L28 damper (see you guys in the classifieds!) and bolt a DIYAutoTune type trigger wheel to the front where the third row would go. * Have my damper rebuilt and still not have a good trigger wheel solution aside from the Hoke Performance kit. * Get some brand new expensive trick custom thing like an ATI or BHJ damper. * Luck out on the classifieds and get offered something that works with no modification on my end. Any thoughts? Other options I've not thought of? Anyone have experience with these solutions? Thanks!
  9. Recently I had a bit of a rad-hit-fan snafu. I had the rad recored ('murica) and am now using a 280Z 8 blade clutch fan instead of the 5 blade flex fan that it had when I bought it. It's never had cooling issues while driving, but it can now sit idle far longer before it starts to heat soak and run poorly/try to die. I've decided to try and fix this altogether with a fan shroud. Now for the question! Can anyone get me the inner diameter of a 280Z's shroud opening? I don't want to make the opening too small and the engine rock the fan into the shroud. I figure what ever Nissan came up with would be a safe option. Thanks!
  10. I placed mine between the battery and the heater hoses on the firewall. I have another just like it that I intend to mount up in the passenger side kick panel below the glove box (where the relays are/use to be). Though I've been lazy and have left it lying on the floor (Yes, it's wired. Just not securely mounted anywhere. Yes that's probably dangerous. Nothing to see there.). It's all still a bit messy, but when it runs as good as it does, I'd rather drive it than work on it. Edit: Guess you'd like to know if I've had issues. None to report. Pretty happy with the location. Nice and convenient/easy to access. Had to use some standoffs when mounting it over the ridge in the firewall.
  11. Last weekend, my radiator and fan had a disagreement. So I need a fan. Any plastic fan from an S30 will do. 7 or 8 blade. PayPal would be nice. Thanks! *Edit: My old fan was a flex fan. I'll be going with the stock clutch type setup. So I'll need a clutch as well. I'd planned on just buying a new one. But I'll hold off in case someone's got one in good shape along with a fan.
  12. Those look like they're in great shape! This Saturday I'm going to take RebekahsZ's advice and try my local Z yard, I hadn't thought of checking the spare wheel wells. If I can only find one or two, I'll definitely have yours shipped down here. If I find at least three (miracle?), I guess I'll be good to go. Thanks!
  13. I'm looking for the cheapest way to get a "good" (you know... not out of round and such) set of wheels. I figure a set of steelies would be my best bet. I have one already (the spare), so I only really need three but would prefer four. I also don't need tires, mine are very fresh. I have a "set" of 4 slotted mags. (Only 2 of them appear to be identical) Aesthetically, I think they're awesome. Mechanically, they kinda suck. One of them is out of round, so I'm using my one steely. I'd like them to match it. They're all the same right? A set of four that match each other is fine too. If anything will be a deal breaker here, it'll probably be shipping. I have no idea what it costs to ship three or four of these things. I'm in north Alabama. I'd be willing to drive a few hours to pick 'em up if I get that lucky. Thanks for viewing!
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