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XplosiveLugnut

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Everything posted by XplosiveLugnut

  1. Thanks for the replies. Was expecting email notifications. Forgot to check that box. Thanks for the spline count info. I didn't plan on mixing axles and flanges, but that's good to know. I'll end up with aftermarket axles eventually, but I guess I'm going to try my luck at least once. I'll be happy if I get 2 or 3 years out of a used axle.
  2. I let a stub axle nut get loose and the splines now have quite a bit of back lash. That's what I get for not checking it. Ever. Definitely not comfortable hammering on it. Any 240/260/280Z axle/companion flanges will work for me. The later the better though. If you have a pair of axles/flanges and would prefer to sell them together, I'll take both. Never hurts to have a spare. Thanks!
  3. Ah, thank you. That was the type of thread I was looking for. Wouldn't have thought to get an axle magnafluxed before just slapping it in there. Will want an aftermarket solution eventually I suppose.
  4. When uninstalling/reinstalling the diff, I noticed the passenger side axle companion flange rotated independent of the axle while loosening the bolts. I could pretty easily rotate it back and fourth by hand a couple degrees or so. The axle nut was still staked in place, but had definitely lost its clamping force. I could clamp the axle down with a new nut, but with as much play the splines now have, I'm thinking this axle is toast and would be too risky to continue using. Wouldn't want it to snap during a launch. Does anyone agree? Is it likely the axle wasn't installed properly? (I have never disassembled the passenger side axle, so I wouldn't know) Should a fresh install with a new nut torqued down to 230+ ft lbs be fine? Would it be wise to inspect the axles after each autocross? Thanks in advance!
  5. I'd go for the locking type just because it's the cheapest option by a large margin. I'd never use the lock, so the fact that the lock wouldn't have worked isn't a big deal. Thanks though, too bad it's not available.
  6. Got some gas bummed off me at the station. Sufficiently distracted, I drove off with the cap on the spoiler. Sucks to loose it after owning the car for four and a half years. I was doing so good. Needs to fit a '70. It doesn't need to be the "correct" one. I can handle the shipping by emailing the seller a FedEx label if desired. I get it the fastest/cheapest that way. I'll need box dimensions, weight and an address. PayPal would be nice, but I'll mail a check if I have to. Thanks! -Gonna chain the next one down...
  7. Thanks for the feedback! Still thinking about it, but I'm leaning towards KevvinG's solution. I know I've thought about doing exactly that at one point. I don't think I liked that the trigger wheel was held on with two bolts or that it wouldn't be located easily with only two bolts. But if it's been done successfully, it seems like the easiest way to do it. Did you go to any great pains to make sure the trigger wheel had no runout? I really like the flywheel method too. It'll be perfect for my other project that's in a million pieces, but I'm in no hurry to take the flywheel back off my current driver. It's also aluminum, so there'd be a few more steps involved. And that might not even be a good idea to begin with.
  8. So the damper on my 240 has separated about half an inch. Glad it didn't fly apart before I noticed, that would've gotten expensive. Some considerations for replacements: I've been wanting a crank trigger wheel to start working on a distributor-less ignition/EFI project and it needs two rows for AC. I figure I've got 4 options: * Buy a used L28 damper (see you guys in the classifieds!) and bolt a DIYAutoTune type trigger wheel to the front where the third row would go. * Have my damper rebuilt and still not have a good trigger wheel solution aside from the Hoke Performance kit. * Get some brand new expensive trick custom thing like an ATI or BHJ damper. * Luck out on the classifieds and get offered something that works with no modification on my end. Any thoughts? Other options I've not thought of? Anyone have experience with these solutions? Thanks!
  9. Recently I had a bit of a rad-hit-fan snafu. I had the rad recored ('murica) and am now using a 280Z 8 blade clutch fan instead of the 5 blade flex fan that it had when I bought it. It's never had cooling issues while driving, but it can now sit idle far longer before it starts to heat soak and run poorly/try to die. I've decided to try and fix this altogether with a fan shroud. Now for the question! Can anyone get me the inner diameter of a 280Z's shroud opening? I don't want to make the opening too small and the engine rock the fan into the shroud. I figure what ever Nissan came up with would be a safe option. Thanks!
  10. I placed mine between the battery and the heater hoses on the firewall. I have another just like it that I intend to mount up in the passenger side kick panel below the glove box (where the relays are/use to be). Though I've been lazy and have left it lying on the floor (Yes, it's wired. Just not securely mounted anywhere. Yes that's probably dangerous. Nothing to see there.). It's all still a bit messy, but when it runs as good as it does, I'd rather drive it than work on it. Edit: Guess you'd like to know if I've had issues. None to report. Pretty happy with the location. Nice and convenient/easy to access. Had to use some standoffs when mounting it over the ridge in the firewall.
  11. Last weekend, my radiator and fan had a disagreement. So I need a fan. Any plastic fan from an S30 will do. 7 or 8 blade. PayPal would be nice. Thanks! *Edit: My old fan was a flex fan. I'll be going with the stock clutch type setup. So I'll need a clutch as well. I'd planned on just buying a new one. But I'll hold off in case someone's got one in good shape along with a fan.
  12. Those look like they're in great shape! This Saturday I'm going to take RebekahsZ's advice and try my local Z yard, I hadn't thought of checking the spare wheel wells. If I can only find one or two, I'll definitely have yours shipped down here. If I find at least three (miracle?), I guess I'll be good to go. Thanks!
  13. I'm looking for the cheapest way to get a "good" (you know... not out of round and such) set of wheels. I figure a set of steelies would be my best bet. I have one already (the spare), so I only really need three but would prefer four. I also don't need tires, mine are very fresh. I have a "set" of 4 slotted mags. (Only 2 of them appear to be identical) Aesthetically, I think they're awesome. Mechanically, they kinda suck. One of them is out of round, so I'm using my one steely. I'd like them to match it. They're all the same right? A set of four that match each other is fine too. If anything will be a deal breaker here, it'll probably be shipping. I have no idea what it costs to ship three or four of these things. I'm in north Alabama. I'd be willing to drive a few hours to pick 'em up if I get that lucky. Thanks for viewing!
  14. The new rear main seal is on it's way. I don't know if my judge of flywheel ring teeth wear is worth squat, but looking at the teeth in person, it doesn't look bad. All the teeth are worn uniformly, no big gouged out areas or missing teeth. The starter however does look worn out. I'm getting a new gear reduction starter and wiring in a relay to help out the solenoid. I figure this will be an improvement. Just my luck though, it'll grind on the first attempt.
  15. So I've gotten an '84 Maxima 5 speed, and this weekend I've managed to pull out everything all the way up to the crank shaft. Need weekend it'll be time to put it all back together but I've gotta go on a little shopping spree first. Gonna need a new starter, shifter bushings, etc... My questions are, I can't tell if the wear on the flywheel teeth is "too much" or not. I also have conflicting ideas about tampering with the rear main seal. I figure "while I'm down there" I should put a fresh one in. But I also have that "if it ain't broke don't fix it" feeling. Here are some pics of the flywheel teeth and the rear main seal. So, sometime when attempting to crank the Z, I'd get a sharp startling grinding sound. The starter has never unexpectedly disengaged, but it has sometimes failed to engage initially. I don't know if it's mostly due to how much the starter is worn or the flywheel or both. The flywheel's not missing any teeth, they're all just a bit deformed. Also, is that oil on the end of the crank a problem? How easy is it to screw up a rear main seal installation? Thanks! Also, plenty more pictures where those came from here.
  16. That is ideal! Can you PM me your asking price and preferred method of payment? Thanks!
  17. I'll take one that doesn't run!*** A working one would be great, but if all the clock needs are some new caps or a new transistor, etc, I'm confident I can get it running again. ***If it's not in good mechanical shape (the insides that is) then I'm not in the market for it. ***The coil shouldn't be damaged either. (e.g. burnt up by a soldering iron) Cosmetics arn't a big deal. Thanks a lot! The attached PDF has plenty of details. How to fix your 260Z or 280Z clock - rev 1 (1).pdf
  18. After taking some more measurements and making some estimations it looks like the intake runner's bore is about 48 mm in diameter. So the carb's not 44 mm all the way through. It also looks like the piston and bridge(?) cause some restriction. Would a throttle body that tapers from 44 mm to 48 mm with no restriction, like the piston or bridge, be too sensitive? One of the ideas behind the EFI conversion is improved drive-ability and an on/off throttle is a step in the wrong direction.
  19. Nice, had no idea Patton Machine existed. I'll definitely look into that, thanks. I initially thought of putting an injector in the top of the carb, but then thought having the injector pointed straight down on the external side of the throttle valve wouldn't be a good idea. Couldn't fuel end up in the air cleaner since it's side draft? Would that even be a problem? I don't 'spose so if these guys do just that.
  20. Oh yeah, I was aware this was just TBI. I'm definitely backtracking from the L28's port injection.
  21. I have an L24 with SU carbs. I've had this idea of the ability to go from carbs to EFI and back relatively easily.This would require a bolt on replacement for the carbs. I'd still be using the stock intake runners and air cleaner. I'd also try to keep the TBs the same length as the carbs. This is what I've doodled so far. This uses a compact EV14 injector: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media/catalog_resources/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867pdf.pdf Some fuel rail I found the dimensions of: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/images/large/dash8wire.jpg And the flange patterns from the SUs. This drawing lacks stuff still. The idle air intake, I figure, could go on the sides of the TBs facing each other and be plumbed to a T where one adjustment screw handles both the TBs idle. The placement of the injector is arbitrary. I just plopped it there and it worked out that the fuel rail doesn't interfere with the stock air cleaner (orange line). It's angle's just 45*. I'm not sure how evenly the fuel would be distributed down the 3 asymmetrical runners with this set up. Probably over thinking that though. The placement of the throttle plate is arbitrary as well. I've merely spaced it 1 cm from the flange to provide room for bolting on the air cleaner. These should retain most of the stock throttle linkage too. This drawing also assumes that both the front and rear of the SUs are 44 mm inside diameter and coaxial. I'm not sure about this. I know next to nothing about injectors. According to some megasquirt literature though; If I want the capability to fuel around 150 HP then I need 2 injectors around 500 cc/min each. Any reasons why this might not be feasible?
  22. Just when I think I might have a semi original idea on my hands I find I'm at least 4 weeks late to the party. Ah well, I'm not able to attempt anything crazy on my Z yet anyway, so I'll just continue to live vicariously though you guys. Was seeking a bit of clarification. "I am using a LT-1 T56 which from what I found is a 4KHZ square wave pulse." So, your saying is you've got a T56 transmission that has a VSS in it that puts out a 4kHz square wave? I'm assuming you where getting this signal while letting trans's secondary shaft spin? Also, for anyone wondering, quadrature hall sensors are a thing. They're just two sensors built into the nose of a single housing. You index the sensor so that one sensor is "behind" the other. This way, when a trigger tooth flies by, one detects it before the other. This allows for direction detection when interpreting both signals. Convenient primer with diagram: http://www.sensoronix.com/00pdf/newsletters/Miniaturized%20Hall%20Effect%20Quadrature%20Sensor!.pdf Good luck on the install!
  23. Thanks for replying! I realized that I'd just asked a stupid question, probably not the last, and that there is no such "wrong ignition"(excluding wrong ignitions). Thanks for confirming the buzzer wires though! I suppose this can be moved to the tool shed? If only the thread could be deleted. It can at least be closed right?
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