Z2000

Its gonna be harder to keep that thing going straight then it was to build I bet.

where will I be able to find a complete s30 wiring diagram?

Today I ordered my AEM ems standalone! Also picked up the extra stub shaft needed so I can send them in to get converted to snap in stubs. Also went to "Battle of the Imports" at Sacramento Raceway. All motor fastest I saw was 9.4 @144mph and the fastest turbo was in the low 7's. Killed a lot of birds with todays stone!

Where/who/how can I get ahold of stub shafts? I have my stock r180 shafts but I need at least one more so I can send them out to get converted into snap in shafts. R160 or 510 stub shafts would be ideal since they have proper placement of the dust shield for the r160 Im running. R160 or R180 will work, or even an old subie stub that I can just use as a spline donor. Any advice would be great.

I was thinking of doing the same thing. What are your weight savings?

Thanks for the support! I plan to keep away from the stroker cranks. My headwork alone will make the torque of a 2.2L without increasing piston speed and killing rpm potental. Shortly after the swap is done I plan to port the head, run custom cams (maybe hytech if he is willing to talk profiles with me) and valveterain, ITB's, and my own header. Im expecting over 300whp at high rpm on pump gas. But lets not get too ahead of ourselves, this is will be after the project is on the road.

Gollum, Yes R160, these are very under rated to say the least. I have seen many R160's hold up just fine to 500 hp setups. My curb weight goal is 2,000 lbs. I have 15x7 Watanabe rims but havnt picked tires yet. If it breaks I will just have to cryo the next one haha:) R160 has minimal weight and drivetrain loss which makes it the right choice. Flexicoker, I sourced the rear end from a 01 subaru 2.5 automatic. Comes stock with 4.44 gears and lsd. The only thing i have to do is convert to snap in axles and everything else is good to go.

Damn... Thanks though.

Some good points, I use clay as well, but I disagree with big ports moving powerband up the rpm ladder. High rpm capability is mostly piston speed, geometry, valveterain capability, and cam porfile. Most of the engines that see 16,000 to 20,000 rpm actually use a port to valve sizeing that generaly falls about 10% smaller port than we see on most race engines that dont see more than 10,000 rpm. For example the newest street bike engines are increasing displacement, REDUCING port sizes (intake and exhaust), reving higher and making more power than ever. I agree! Good discussion! I would like to hear more...

It sure as hell looks like they should... I just got my Subie diff (4.44 LSD) and im trying to sort out the axle problem. I was planning on a cv axle upgrade soon anyway. I guess the easy way to find out is to ask if Z31 axles only go into R200 rear ends or if they fit in R180's as well. If they do then that should mean they will fit into my rear end right? Info anyone...

ADD: The S15 not only has the most power and best factory turbo, injectors are actually 480cc, it also has a nice 6 speed tranny that keeps you right into the meat of your powerband in between shifts. Rumors say that the 6 speed is weaker but thats bs because Iv never seen one fail before.

I looked at the pics on your website... You got a pretty good grinder hand. A good flow # doesnt hurt but the flowbench is one of the biggest blindfolds to the cylinder head porter. 99% of the time the flowbench leads porters to make their ports TOO BIG! Q. Why is that? A. big ports flow better on a flowbench. Making a port bigger slows the air down and that greatley reduces VE. This is so comon These days and its the main reason why so many "built engines" can pull an OK dyno # but they simply dont perform well on the track/street at all. This is the main category that keeps the pros so far ahead of the upcoming engine builders. On the p90 pics page, the exhaust port exit is about twice as big as it should be (I dont care if its n/A or turbo) and the intake side needs some attention for port shape. I would recomend investing in a pitot probe and see what the air is doing at port entry, short side, in the bowl, choke point, and past the valve into the chamber. This will be a big eye opener! Please dont take offense to this post. Im just trying to help remove the flowbench blindfold. It will make you ten times the head porter you are now.

Just picked up my rear end today! 4.44 gears with LSD out of a subie!

Today I was able to tack up the engine mounts and nearly complete the tranny X member. Just need to pull the engine back out so I can run all the welds on the engine mounts and I will probably be adding a couple gussets to the tranny X member for extra strength since its at a funny angle. Here are todays pics.

Believe me it wasnt that close the first try. Had to move brake lines, fuel lines, modify the tunnel a bit, and remove the hood latch bracket and then it fit. And Im still going to have to modify the tunnel a bit more on the exhaust side because the exhaust manifold wont fit.

Thanks for the replys. I will be taking more pics, time is my biggest enemy right now so the pics and writeup probably wont be as detailed as you may want but I will do the best with the time I have. I already have a set of busa ITB's to fab together for this engine but that is well down the road as well as headwork and proper cams. The goal right now is to get this thing on the road.

Just got to the next phase and this time I made sure to start the thread in the right place. These pics should be the final fit. After clearancing, moving, modding several things the engine is in where it belongs now. The plan is to start building mounts tomorrow. These are crappy pics because they were taken with my phone

I have a 73 Z and need to know if the stock fuel tank will have fuel sloshing issues in hard acceleration or hard turns? Thanks

thanks for the replys! Can the larger fuel lines be robbed from a newer year fuel injected Z? or should I just go custom with them? Is this 392 fuel pump inline or in tank? Im guessing inline.

What fuel pumps are commonly used for modern pressure fuel injected swaps? In line? In tank? I have a 73 Z and I also realized the fuel return line was small... Is it standard to upgrade to a larger fuel return line in this case? Thanks

I havnt had time to do any shopping yet. Where can I find this JTR hood latch kit you are talking about? Does it remove the triangle hood latch mount at the top of the fire wall?

HAHA just realized I posted in the "Nissan 4 cyl" board. Oops! Moderator please move...

brake booster clearance is no conflict. The biggest conflict so far is the the hood latch in the upper center of the fire wall. It seems I will have to remove the factory hood latch and upgrade to hood pins in order to get the engine back 1" and up 1" since the valve cover is already hitting as you see it.

Hope I did it right... These are the only pics i have so far. I need to clearance/move a couple things so i can get the engine another inch back and another inch up with proper alignment. Once that has been achieved I will start building the mounts. From the looks of it I will be able to use the s30 crossmenber for mounting the engine which is great because I was expecting to need a second crossmember to mount the engine. More pics just as soon as I get a little further!

I finaly got started the other day, pulled the stock engine out and now im in the middle of the mockup phase. Trying to get the engine just as far back as it can go among other things that need to fit as well. Yes, I do have a couple pics so far and no clue how to post them... I will be posting progress as it happens but this isnt a full time project just random evenings for now.